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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 23-03-05, 11:41 PM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

My Getrag is a Jag 225,
This may seem daft but I cant see anywhere for the speedo cable to fit, can some one point me in the right direction
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 23-03-05, 11:46 PM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

If the jag box came from an XJS you may find that the speedo drive is via a sensor in the diff and not from the gearbox.

Cheers,

Tony
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 23-03-05, 11:52 PM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

gearbox is unknown and back end is Daimler so I might be stuffed!
If any one can tell me where the cable fits I can see if its blanked off
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 24-03-05, 06:27 AM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

One advice when fitting the body, start with the rear bolts and work forward. The 10 mm bolts it the tub and front is much more forgiving (when it comes to alignment) than the 8 mm in the boot (the ones that goes trough the brackets for the rear nudge bars). I did the 10 mm first and had to do it all over again since tightening from the front misaligned the rear ones with an mm or two. I had no problems doing it the other way around. Don’t tighten any bolt until you got them all in place.

/ Bowtie
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 25-03-05, 08:46 AM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

Quote:
Originally Posted by AK Rich
gearbox is unknown and back end is Daimler so I might be stuffed!
If any one can tell me where the cable fits I can see if its blanked off
Hi Rich

The 5-speed Getrags tended to not have a mechanical take-off. Not even blanked off. I have two and neither has this feature. As TonyD says above, the speedos on the donor cars were electronic with a hall-effect ('wires' not cable) sensor stuck out the back of the diff housing.

I have heard that at least some electronic speedos can be used with the sensor in the diff, otherwise the prop appears to be favourite (recommended by the speedo manufactures).

I would guess that your gearbox is not actually a 225 as you say. This is just one of the numbers used on the main casting of an earlier 262 which was an earlier 4-speed. Many of the later boxes re-used this same main casting and apparetly they never bothered to change the numbers. Identification of Getrags seems to be a bit of a minefield but in the end, no one seems too bothered as long as it's got the removeable bell-housing (and isn't shot of course!) You probably have a 265 if it came from a Jag XJS, the same as my two. Mine also have "Jaguar" written on the tail section which is a bit of a give away and the other casting number is 262.0.0.0510.90 My boxes also have numbers within a box shape marking printed/painted on them. One of mine is 540 and the other 158 . I dont know what these mean but they might be say the quality inspector's stamp?
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 18-05-05, 11:59 AM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

Thanks for your replies,
The body still isn't on but the list of things to do first is getting smaller.

I was just wondering if it was worth putting sound deadening pads on the top of the tank, and on the floor pans.
Has any one experienced any drumming noises in their AK's?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 24-05-05, 04:24 PM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

I forgot to weld large nut to end of clutch fork.

Currently searching for ambidextrous double jointed pygmy with a certain welding skill.

Warren
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 29-06-05, 05:50 AM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
I forgot to weld large nut to end of clutch fork.

Currently searching for ambidextrous double jointed pygmy with a certain welding skill.

Warren

What is this all about ?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 30-06-05, 09:28 PM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

If you are using the marina pedal box have you cut the fulcrum tube in half at the middle point (use shims to remake up the thicvkness of blade cut). Impossible to get out again after the body is fitted.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-05, 11:56 AM
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Re: Body Fitting is Close

What I was talking about is the end of the clutch release arm where it comes into contact with the push rod from the slave cylinder. It is at an angle, this becomes even more extreme with the clutch depressed, and AK recommend a nut welded to the end of the clutch fork to stop the pushrod from dropping away or vibrating off.

Sorry for delayed reply, I been away for the last week.

Warren
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