Self centering

[cliffords]

Originally Posted by craggle

The swivels are the later, sealed types. The same on my car, and they can't be greased.

Still can't see why the shims are at the rear though? To increase the castor you need to move the top of the upright back wards so the shims at the front would do this.

Think Chris has just agreed with me. Swap the shims round and give it a try.

Craig.

Agree it would do, the reason I did not was it was going to give so much rear movement.
will give it a go through

thanks

[Purple AK]

Just to confuse things further There are 3 types of top wishbone! Curved with equal offset. Straight Cranked with equal offset and Straight Cranked with unequal offset. Looking at Davids picture he has the later. So moving the shims forward should sort the problem Craig I think the rounded top bolt is only needed if you still have the shield (which most of us don't) I changed it for a normal hex head because with 4 shims there is not enough thread showing past the nyloc for SVA purposes. And it doesn't rub

[cliffords]

Originally Posted by Purple AK

David. Your picture is of the N/S not the O/S so the shims are at the back! They should be at the front

dohhh !

wife must have turned the car around !!

yes pic of nearside.

[chedz]

Hi,

I'm a bit late, but there's some info here on self centring that explains some stuff, it's for a sumo but the principles are the same in any vehicle:

Sumo wiki - Steering

I got 30 of my 50 grey hairs trying to figure out my self centring problems so I hope you get it sorted.

Cheers

Graham

[TonyD]

Nearside..............no wonder I was a bit confused, I didn't look at the rest of the picture I was looking at the hub and the wishbone. IIRC from when I put mine together your upper wishbones as they are at the moment are reversed. . The larger "knuckle" into which the bump stop used to bolt should be towards the front, you've got it on the back, and the shims should be on the front face of the upper ball joint, not rear as you have them now. That will sort the problem. Cheers, Tony

[TINKA]

The shims look to be on the wrong side to me. You also need to use the method Ken recommends to measure the angle, there is no correct way it varies slightly from car to car.

[dave]

It looks like the bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone are in the wrong way around, Well, the outer one is anyway.(That is if you are leaving your shims there).
The head of the bolt should always go closest to the shim pack as the disc can get very close to the nut and thread on full lock when the ball joint is off set in the other direction.
That's why the original Jaguar bolt had a domed head.

[craggle]

That's what I said Dave on post 2.

I re-used the Jag bolts as clearance was minimal even with these fitted. Mine are fitted with the head of the bolts facing forward and the shim pack at the front.

Craig.

[dave]

Originally Posted by craggle

That's what I said Dave on post 2.

I re-used the Jag bolts as clearance was minimal even with these fitted. Mine are fitted with the head of the bolts facing forward and the shim pack at the front.

Craig.

Oh bugger.

[RobinH]

Originally Posted by craggle

The swivels are the later, sealed types. The same on my car, and they can't be greased.

Still can't see why the shims are at the rear though? To increase the castor you need to move the top of the upright backwards so the shims at the front would do this.

Think Chris has just agreed with me. Swap the shims round and give it a try.

Craig.

By all means try moving the shims, but at the end of the day there is no substitute for actually measuring the caster angle which should be in the order of 5 to 7 deg I recall.