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Iain
29-01-05, 04:41 PM
What's word with these things then.

Now that I have the correct flywheel, the correct pressure plate and friction disk my problem is that I cannot get the slave cylinder back on. This is because of the relaxed state of the pressure plate being different to the old (incorrect) one. To make matters worse I cannot move the slave cylinder into a position where it would work because I have an exhaust header in the way. Someone has suggested that I can fit a hydraulic throw out bearing and then I can get rid of the clutch arm and the slave cylinder.

My questions are :-

1. How do they work?
2. How do they fit into my already finished clutch system?
3. Will I have to change my clutch system from the standard hydraulic Master / Slave cylinder
4. Are Real Steel's prices about right for one?
5. Does anyone want to buy my car?

Actually, you'd better scrub that last question!


Cheers.


Iain...

A pennyless Viper owner!

Purple AK
29-01-05, 04:53 PM
Iain.

Would you have room to fit a puller slave (not very big) on the other side of the release arm to your original? Only from previous posts the Hydraulic throwout bearings seem to be a pain in the A**e. Just a thought ;)

Iain
30-01-05, 08:48 AM
HI Chris,

What is the big problem with the throw out bearings?

A Slave cylinder that pulls could be an option but where can you get one from?

Cheers.


Iain

Purple AK
30-01-05, 09:04 AM
Hi Iain.

The McLeod's appear to have a problem either with leaking banjo connections or overthrowing and leaking if not set up just right with a pedal stop. The Wilwood puller is available from Rally Design 01795531871, or Merlin Motorsport amongst others, About 47

dave
30-01-05, 09:09 AM
Hi iain.
they are very delicate and it's real easy to pop the seals, and you will have to split the engine and box to get it in as it sits where your current release bearing sits (But without the fork).
They are like a very short hollow telescopic ram....If that makes sense.
Real steel's prices are pretty much the norm. unless you ship in from Summit and the like. :thumb:

osgood
30-01-05, 09:10 AM
HI Chris,

What is the big problem with the throw out bearings?

A Slave cylinder that pulls could be an option but where can you get one from?

Cheers.


IainIain they constantly leak which means removing the whole gear box to fix the problem.

And know I don't want to buy your car :rolleyes: As Chris says there is other ways out I would have thought best regards Eric:thumb:

Iain
30-01-05, 09:35 AM
Okay chaps... I have tried to include a photo that shows the problem.

There is probably 10 to 15mm gap between the clutch fork and the end of the slave cylinder. The push rod for the slave isn't fitted in the photo.

I can't move the slave away from the fork as it will hit the exhaust header (on the left of the pic)

The only other thing I could try and do is alter the fork in such a way that it gives me a bigger gap to get the push rod in (and still have some adjustment)

Looking at that puller and the space I have, I don't think that I can get it in!

Ideas? (I'm running out of them!)

Cheers guys!


Iain

LRdriver
30-01-05, 11:31 AM
I have a latest generation McCleod hyd throwout release bearing still here in a box. I ordered it to exchange seals, but I got a replacement seal set from the old owner. I will sell it for cost price minus vat. Yes they are a pain to set up and are very touchy with being setup correctly. The new design banjo fitting doesnt leak any more (as its an elbow joint instead of a banjo with o-rings) but as was said before if it overthrows it will blow the large o-ring seals.
Anyway, its for sale if anybody wants it..

Iain
30-01-05, 12:05 PM
Purple AK,

Having thought about what you have suggested with the puller it looks as though that might be the best option to look at first! What has confused me (and it's easily done) is that the photo you have shown would indicate to me that the cylinder is still working in the push action since it is in front of the fork (or so it appears to me)

The gearbox is out at the moment anyway so I do have some working room. However, I could really do with it being back in the car so I can see where I may be able to fit it. I think the plan is to get one with a rose joint on both ends, secure the fixed end back to the chassis along side the gearbox, and the moving end onto the clutch fork (opposite side to how it currently is) I will have to get a new hose made up but if all goes well, it may cure my problem...

It looks like the throw out bearing could be more hassle than it's worth and that's something that I just don't need at the moment!

With any luck I may have it sorted by next weekend. Then I can re-think about starting the engine! :eek:

Thanks for the info! :thumb:

Iain

Purple AK
30-01-05, 12:43 PM
Hi Iain.

Sorry I should have explained, i'm using the puller as a replacement for the standard Ford clutch cable, In your application it would indeed go to the rear ;) No need for 2 rose joints one end has a ball. If you drill the release fork through the centre of the indent, the rod can then be passed through and the ball sits in and pivots on the indent. The rose jointed end then fixes to a simple bracket on either the chassis or gearbox. The rose joint/ball can go at either end. Have a look here, Page 9 it may make it clearer :thumb: http://www.wilwood.org/catalogs/tech/mastercylindersfluidandcontrols.pdf
Regards Chris

Iain
30-01-05, 12:59 PM
Chris,

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

Job's a good 'un

Cheers Mate!

Will let you know how I get on!


Iain

osgood
30-01-05, 05:51 PM
Iain make up or have made another much shorter ajustable push rod, as far as I can see it will work perfectly well as a long one. Or as you have said have a cup welded on to the back side of the arm say 1" in depth and perhaps modify your existing rod to suit length wise. Or cut and crank the arm/fork and re-weld to give the desired gap between fork and slave cylinder Eric;)

tony
30-01-05, 06:42 PM
Hi Iain.

Sorry I should have explained, i'm using the puller as a replacement for the standard Ford clutch cable, In your application it would indeed go to the rear ;) No need for 2 rose joints one end has a ball. If you drill the release fork through the centre of the indent, the rod can then be passed through and the ball sits in and pivots on the indent. The rose jointed end then fixes to a simple bracket on either the chassis or gearbox. The rose joint/ball can go at either end. Have a look here, Page 9 it may make it clearer :thumb: http://www.wilwood.org/catalogs/tech/mastercylindersfluidandcontrols.pdf
Regards Chris


Chris.

What size pipe and master cylinder are you using with this set-up?

Tony

Purple AK
30-01-05, 06:52 PM
Hi Tony.

Standard 3/16" brake pipe and 3/4" Girling master. Good feel to the clutch and not heavy at all :thumb: