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View Full Version : RV8 Goodens / Badens ?



bobdude
20-07-05, 07:46 AM
Ok Folks

As previously posted I have got a RV8 to fit in the winter, so thought I would do a bit of homework now.

Spoke to Rimmers about engine recon kit ie pistons / liners/crank and got told that there is 2 types of engine hard block and soft block.

If the engine is stamped as 10a / 11a / 21a it is a hard block so worth doing all the work if it is stamped with anything else it is more than likely a soft block so throw it in the bin (so to speak).

Mine is stamped 21b.

Has anyone else come across this?

craizy
20-07-05, 09:26 AM
Hi Bobdude

Never heard of the phrase of softblock/hardblock with rv8 before even after reading everything I could get my hands on and using the internet for days. I'm guessing someone will correct me otherwise.

Just a quick sanity check 21b is the first three letters off the serial number eg. 21BXXXXX? I've looked on rimmers, on here and that number is not listed anywhere. Do you know anything about the blocks history or its size anything?

Craig.

bobdude
20-07-05, 09:44 AM
Craig

Just found something else out.I currently run a cologne V6 and have been told that it will be kicking out the same BHP as a standard RV8. To reach what I consider a good BHP (300) it needs to be a 4.6 litre which could cost me around 5k.

I have had it confirmed about soft/hard and if it is a soft block people don't like to tune them and unfortunatly mine is a soft block.

So where do I go now!

craizy
20-07-05, 10:06 AM
This all sounds quite fimilar....
I was going down the v6 route initally but after being on here for a while you can't beat the sound or rumble of a v8 so I decided v8 was the way to go. Of course resale value too!
Incase you didnt know about the rv8, it weighs about the same or a bit less (i think) then the v6 and I wont mention power to weight etc.

I can only think softblock can mean the old p6 style block with rope seals and less webbing between galleries or a standard noncross bolted block. I think if you want that sort of power you're going to need a cross bolted block. For 300bhp I think 4.6 tuned to stage 2/3 should give you that level but as you said thats quite a bit of

The other choice is to scrap the rv8 (nooo!) and go down the american iron block which you can pick up for 500 + a rebuild kit (300), which chucks out power by the truck load but weighs alot more. Have a look on American V8 engines if you want a idea.

Hope thats some help.

Craig.

bobdude
20-07-05, 10:10 AM
Cheers Craig

Mines a Pilgrim MK1 so I don't know whether it would take the weight of a yankee I also didn't realise that you could pick them up that cheap!

craizy
20-07-05, 10:22 AM
No problem.

If my memory is right I think you might even have issues with that sort of power in the sumo mk1, regardless of source, i remember reading something about twisting and reinforcing the chassis but I think someone else should be able to help with that one.

Craig.

IanM
20-07-05, 10:34 AM
Hi Bob
As i said before i had a 2.8 cologne in the sumo originally and have since upgraded to the rover v8....mike broad of magnum engineering felt the chassis adequate to take the v8 and it has improved the drivability no end.........although the 2.8 has a published bhp of about 150 ,it would take a perfect example to reach it.....most never did......the weight of the 2.8 cologne is about 15kg lighter than the rover (itwas the essex v6 that was heavier) and remember it's not just about bhp ...the amount of torque the v8 produces is significantly more than the v6.....plus..........cobras sound right as a v8

jenny
20-07-05, 10:47 AM
Hi Guys,

I have a RV8 in an old Pilgrim Chassis and it managed to rip itself off the engine mounts and do some serious damage to the chassis, it cracked and started collapsing in on itself :eek: . Had to re-weld and put a torsion bar across the front of the engine and now it drives like a dream. Gradually uploading pics of the mods I have made (can only upload 2 piccies a day so it may take time). If you do upgrade the engine then I would make sure that you put a bit of extra metal in just to stiffen everything up (just to be on the safe side). I think what happened to mine was an exception because it was badly put together (not by me :rolleyes: ) but now I have strengthened it the performance, braking and steering is much better :p

bobdude
20-07-05, 11:01 AM
Ok

3 sources have now told me to bin the engine I have due to being low compression and soft block. Got given the engine so no harm done.

Now my dilema starts.Do I source another RV8 or do I for now tune the V6.

I agree about the sound but mine does sound quite trick already. I also agree about the re-sale value.

For the sake of putting the V8 in I am thinking with a bit of tweaking I could get similar BHP out of the V6.

Pim.Cobra
20-07-05, 11:10 AM
If you go for an RV8, the one you want is a 4.6l cross bolted block, coming from the Land/Range Rover. Mind you, getting 300(+) BHP from this block requires some work! Stage 2/3 alone is not enough. Your intake and exhaust manifolds will have to be widened and the valves will need more lift, so you'll need a fairly hot camshaft.
All this is not coming cheap, either in money, or in elbow grease.... I know, 'cause I've just gone this route and the widening-up of the (injection) intake manifold from 38 to 45 mm alone will cost you around 20 hours of hard labour, if you have the right tool (I could borrow one...) ACT will do this for you on an exchange basis, but in the price you'll see that they need that time too...... I did have them do the plenum base plate and the trumpets to have a reference for the manifold.
I'm going to run an RS 234 cam, with matching hi-rev lifters. All the rest was already done in a previous stage, which gave me (on LPG) around 250 BHP with a Piper 270/110 cam.
Oh, don't forget, if you use the injection manifold, You'll have to enlarge the throttle opening and disc too from 65 to 71, or 72 mm..... If you want the same power output from carburettors, you'll see that you end up with 4 double '45 Webers, or Dell'Orto's. Which do look much better under the hood, by the way, but are useless with LPG.....
Good luck!

Pim

craizy
20-07-05, 11:20 AM
Personally, I'ed get a v8 with a moderate amount of tune as getting similar figures out of a v6 sounds like a bad idea to me. Something out of a tvr or sd1 should be a good start for you.

Dont forget about the torque you can get lots of BHP but will you have the torque of a v8?

Craig.

bobdude
12-08-05, 08:54 AM
Still looking in to this phoned Pilgrim yesterday and was told that the MK1 was never made to take a V8. However it has been done by IanM and Jenny but are you guys running MK1's

Still trying to decide!

TINKA
12-08-05, 06:07 PM
Try and get in touch with a chap on this forum who posts under the name Slider, he has just finished fitting a RV8 into his MK1 pilgrim and a good job he has made of it too. As he did it all himself he will be able to give you very good first hand advice. :thumb:

As far as the choice between a Ford V6 and a RV8 there is no contest really, the sound of a RV8 is so much more appropriate and although the power out puts might be similar there is quite a difference in the torque figures and this is what really counts :D :D