View Full Version : Bl&&dy Automotive Cables

15-01-06, 10:50 PM
Why oh WHY do manufacturers insist on that crappy wire they use???????

You know the stuff, Thin insulation that gets hard as soon as the car reaches more than 3 yrs old then cracks at the most inopportune moment!!!!!!
(ie 5 days before MOT due)

Why the moan........

I have just spent the whole day stripping off the tailgate of the beemer to find out why the side lights packed up.

What do i find.......

Of 8 cores in one of the 4 bundles, 1 had snapped, 4 had cracked and 3 were OKish.
Is this acceptable for a 1998 car?????

When a car costs circa 40k new you'd expect it to last more than 10 years...(no i got it used before you ask...)
Or am i a bit naive in my thinking..

OK fixing the core was not too much of a problem but when you have to take out the speakers, rear courtesy lights, half the tailgate trim and then find the right s&&ding torx bits it gets a tad tiring.

Should have know really as my last one suffered from this on the boot lid and took out the boot lock motor. At least that was only 19 cores to replace. Counted 25 leading to this one before i gave up.

Surely i am not the only poor so n so whos come across this.......

Or are my expectations too high???
Suppose it's one way to sting people for repairs since they got the "older" cars.

Just glad i am hands on and didn't take it to the Stealer.

The Cob is definitely getting a custom loom after this.

Rant over..........

15-01-06, 10:59 PM
All BMW owners please forgive me, but I wouldn't have one.
This story only concretes my opinions on BMW'S and Merc's.
And before you ask I will keep my opinions for right or wrong to myself.

15-01-06, 11:38 PM
Same with all modern cars....you have to get through all the plastic c**p to fix one simple thing...remove dash....you need all day and the fixings are only designed to go one way in...out and they break. That's the reason why I haven't fixed the cigarette light in the civic..can't be ars**d. Give me my cobra anyday...5 screw one bolt and the dash is completly removed in 2 minutes. Keep it simple..just like me me ;)

neil still building it
16-01-06, 07:21 AM
hi guys
THAT'S PROGRESS......!! NOT!!!!typical answers range from saving money to saving weight....and therefore saving petrol and THE PLANET (bull--it)

16-01-06, 08:00 AM
Steamyrotter - sorry to hear of your trials and tribulations, but what you report only confirms what many of us believe about certain German cars - overhyped, overpriced, and over here!

Last year's profits warning issued by Mercedes due to excessive warranty costs says a great deal about just how well built they are these days.

As for the loom on a Cob - it is so simple compared to any volume production car (even a Kia Picanto) that it should not represent too much of a reliability problem - so long as it is installed, terminated, and supported properly. (OK, I will get down from the soapbox now).

16-01-06, 09:11 AM
Hi Steamy,
Sorry to hear about your wiring bother; why does it always happen when its cold and pi**ing down too!!
I think the crux of these problems is the movement of the wires due to the tailgate being opened and closed, I've had similar with hatchbacks (Metro, Pug 205, Mk4 Golf, but not BMW or Merc never having owned one), plus the rear wiper wash pipe cracking on a 6 month old Golf and the 205 pug (cue tailgate full of water, and electric boot lock electrical gremlins on the Golf!!Do'h!!!)
None of the other areas of car wiring seems to crack unless exposed to excessive heat and oil or fuel, so it really needs the designers to route the harness better through the hinging movement areas like boot lid and door wiring; maybe using a track and wiper based system like steering wheel mounted controls do?
I'd guess we dont get these probs on a cob, because, they do less miles, and dont have so many hinging areas in the loom?

Purple AK
16-01-06, 09:40 AM
Most of these failures could be avoided if the manufacturer spent a few more pence and used and different spec of wire in such areas (but then their main dealers would be out of work) :rolleyes:
99% of Dishwasher failures are caused by exactly the same thing where the wires run into the base of the door. A simple fix if you know where to look;)

16-01-06, 09:53 AM
my dishwasher performance has dropped off noticeably lately, must check her door wiring....:angel:

16-01-06, 11:35 AM
For wiring that is subject to frequent flexing you can get silicone rubber insulated wire for test leads from a number of suppliers RS, Farnell, Maplin, Rapid etc. Not cheap though!

These wires have dozens of fine strands and are extremely flexible even at low temperatures where most plastics get stiff and break. I have used it on the rear doors of one of my other vehicles with no problems even after 20 + years. Test leads using this wire do fail of course but generally at the point subject to most stress i.e. at the actual terminations but if you make sure that wires are not flexed at any joints they should certainly outlast most of us on a car.



16-01-06, 04:30 PM
I wonder if that was the problem with my dishwasher? Wish someone had posted this before I went out and bought a new one (although my new one is very sexy... it's a Miele with the nifty cutlery drawer)...

16-01-06, 04:34 PM
sexy.. dishwasher... surely not? ;) :D

16-01-06, 04:37 PM
sexy.. dishwasher... surely not? ;) :D

Relative to other dishwashers, mind.... :rolleyes:

16-01-06, 05:04 PM

So very sad.

Is it a GD owner's thing?

16-01-06, 05:08 PM
Maybe this will help??:angel:

16-01-06, 06:15 PM
my dishwasher performance has dropped off noticeably lately, must check her door wiring....:angel:

So has mine, perhaps i should give her more grocery money each week ;) .

Sorry to hear bout the beemer Dean, any excuse as to not beat me to the SVA eh?

16-01-06, 10:38 PM
Don't get me started on dishwashers!!!!

The bleeding wheels keep falling off mine:angry: