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CeeJay
19-03-08, 01:17 PM
Hi Guys

I know theres a few of you out there who have Vipers with Rover V8's installed. Can I ask you what engine brackets you're using? The set that came with my car are junk (Badly cut about, dont fit and rely on the engine mounts being fitted the wrong way!). See the following link for snapshots:

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/26105-rv8-engine-brackets.html

I have bought a set of SD1 brackets but I am concerned about fouling the steering column - any help you guys could provide would be gratefully received as I'm becoming concerned about this!

Regards
Craig.

P.s Some holiday this is turning out to be!

kevchard
19-03-08, 02:51 PM
Hi Ceejay
Dean (SteamyRotter) is your best bet. I am sure as 1 am approaches he will be online.
I would have thought you'd need stiffer mounts to compensate for that big arsed blower :)
Cheers
Kevin

DELAGE
19-03-08, 03:20 PM
Hi Guys

I know theres a few of you out there who have Vipers with Rover V8's installed. Can I ask you what engine brackets you're using? The set that came with my car are junk (Badly cut about, don't fit and rely on the engine mounts being fitted the wrong way!). See the following link for snapshots:

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/26105-rv8-engine-brackets.html

I have bought a set of SD1 brackets but I am concerned about fouling the steering column - any help you guys could provide would be gratefully received as I'm becoming concerned about this!

Regards
Craig.

P.s Some holiday this is turning out to be!

Craig, use TR8 metal bracket (to engine block) available from Rimmer Brothers Linc's, SD1 standard rubber mounts, also availible from Rimmers and make your own brackets to bolt to rubber mounts and weld to chassis. As far as I am aware none of the Viper range were ever supplied with engine mounts with the kit. I have no idea what those brackets you have are for but you could use the metal. The object of using what I have described you can get the engine sitting pretty low in the frame.

Hope this helps ;)

CeeJay
19-03-08, 08:45 PM
Hi Ceejay
I would have thought you'd need stiffer mounts to compensate for that big arsed blower :)
Cheers
Kevin

You're just jealous cause you've only got a weedy v6... ;>

CeeJay
19-03-08, 08:47 PM
Craig, use TR8 metal bracket (to engine block) available from Rimmer Brothers Linc's, SD1 standard rubber mounts, also availible from Rimmers and make your own brackets to bolt to rubber mounts and weld to chassis. As far as I am aware none of the Viper range were ever supplied with engine mounts with the kit. I have no idea what those brackets you have are for but you could use the metal. The object of using what I have described you can get the engine sitting pretty low in the frame.

Hope this helps ;)

Thanks Delage - I had'nt thought of the TR8 route. I've already bought the SD1 Brackets but I could always stick them on eBay. Do you have any pics of said bracket and is it less bulky than the SD1 Bracket?

CeeJay.

steamyrotter
20-03-08, 12:43 AM
Hi Ceej.

Sorry for not picking up on this earlier.....
(I am slacking Kev!!)

Modified 1986 RR mounts used upside down as per photos attached
(will admit to only having one supplied with the engine and my mate (Again) made the mirror image for the other side.

Note that these were designed for not a lot of movement as I had to drop the engine sufficiently to clear the bonnet but high enough to miss the front cross member!! when running there was minimal vibration through the chassis, but nothing to worry about.
This is my interpretation of mounting system and i do not claim it to be correct or suitable for all installs........

However it took a long time to sort it!!!:-D

DELAGE
20-03-08, 10:28 AM
Craig picture attached, you can see how tight it hugs the block, rubber mount bolts onto the flat plate then two small brackets need to be made up with two holes in to take the rubber mount and welded to chassis if you have the Jag chassis they work out the right width for the chassis.

The SD1 metal brackets are to long and need to be cut down, but even then the engine sits a little high. Steamy's idea is okay & strong but I will think you will find this method is a lot neater. Best of luck ;)

CeeJay
20-03-08, 12:03 PM
Craig picture attached, you can see how tight it hugs the block, rubber mount bolts onto the flat plate then two small brackets need to be made up with two holes in to take the rubber mount and welded to chassis if you have the Jag chassis they work out the right width for the chassis.

The SD1 metal brackets are to long and need to be cut down, but even then the engine sits a little high. Steamy's idea is okay & strong but I will think you will find this method is a lot neater. Best of luck ;)


Thanks Leo - I'm surprised how close to the block the TR8 Brackets are compared with the SD1's. Many thanks to all who replied and I will order up the TR8 Brackets this afternoon.

Anybody want to buy an unused set of SD1 Brackets? Just bought them from Dave Ellis for 30 - yours for 25 plus delivery!

CeeJay.

CeeJay
25-03-08, 12:50 PM
Leo, did you have to alter the TR8 Bracket at all to make it fit? I just received my TR8 Brackets from Rimmers this morning but when I offered them up to the engine only two of the three holes lined up - I'd have to alter the top part of the bracket if I want them to fit...

I'm beginning to hate this car...

CeeJay.

DELAGE
25-03-08, 02:49 PM
Leo, did you have to alter the TR8 Bracket at all to make it fit? I just received my TR8 Brackets from Rimmers this morning but when I offered them up to the engine only two of the three holes lined up - I'd have to alter the top part of the bracket if I want them to fit...

I'm beginning to hate this car...

CeeJay.

CJay, no I did not have to alter the bracket at all, but I do remember having to elongate one of the three holes in order to fit the three fixing bolts to the block, as you can see they are handed. Once you have fitted your engine mounts to the brackets lower the engine down and they will both line up nicely with the chassis rail, two small brakets are then required to me made up out of say 1"X2:5" angle (5mm thick) and shaped with two holes & welded to the chassis, I will have a look through my stuff and see if I can find a drawing for you.

kevchard
25-03-08, 03:21 PM
Hi Leo
You've been a bit quiet lately, hope all is well with you and family :).
Cheers
Kevin

DELAGE
25-03-08, 04:03 PM
Hi Leo
You've been a bit quiet lately, hope all is well with you and family :).
Cheers
Kevin

Hi Kevin, yes all is well thank you, don't tend to post much of late, you give out good advise based on practical/occupational experience and get balled out by people who should know & pay half a crown to know but in fact don't know. Not this post I hasten to add.

Best regards Leo ;)

CeeJay
25-03-08, 08:26 PM
Thanks Leo - I'll enlarge one of the noles on each bracket and see if that works. I thought that this would be the case but didn't want to mess around with them until I checked!

CeeJay.

kevchard
25-03-08, 08:40 PM
Thanks Leo - I'll enlarge one of the noles on each bracket and see if that works. I thought that this would be the case but didn't want to mess around with them until I checked!

CeeJay.

Hi Ceejay
Perhaps one of the noles should be turned into a hole :p.
You got any recent pics?
We are contemplating getting rid of the Alfa with all the selespeed scaremongering people have come up with :(.
Cheers
Kevin

CeeJay
25-03-08, 09:49 PM
Perhaps one of the noles should be turned into a hole :p.


Trust you to notice that!


Hi Ceejay
You got any recent pics?


I'd better start taking more pics for this new sva addition thingmebod so I'll post a few up in the next few days.



We are contemplating getting rid of the Alfa with all the selespeed scaremongering people have come up with :(.


Might not be a bad idea. I know that the selespeed system is pretty good when working, but I have heard horror stories of 1500+ to fix it when it goes wrong.

And trust me - you aint suffered until you have to repair an ailing alfa - I've owned 5 of the buggers and the last (as you already know) was my 164 which cost me about 2500 grand in just 20 months. Great cars but by god they need big money spent on them...

If you want an Italian car with reasonable running costs, a soulful engine, descent handling and, well just a bit different to everything else on the road, then I can recommend a Fiat Coupe 20v - I've had mine for almost a year now and so far all I've had to do to it is general wear and tear items - pads, discs and the clutch - its a great car and puts a grin on my face everytime I drive it - just avoid the turbo - a bit of the fragile side...

CeeJay.

DELAGE
26-03-08, 09:49 AM
CeeJay, found this picture which should give you an idea of how it goes 8)

DELAGE
26-03-08, 12:00 PM
Ceejay found a picture of the near side also which may help you. Now what chassis do you have is it the Jaguar version I am assuming it is?

Next question is what steering rack are you using?

More importantly how much room have you when engine in position between the foot wells and the rocker cover?

Based on your answer to the above there some things you ought to know before the engine & mountings are finally fixed in.

DELAGE
26-03-08, 12:19 PM
Ceejay even beter one here,

CeeJay
26-03-08, 04:43 PM
Many thanks for the pics Leo - I owe you a pint if I make it down to Stoneleigh this year!

I'm using Cortina front suspension but I should be able to use the same type of bracket you have used.

I've just finished modifying my TR8 brackets (In the end I welded up the top hole on each of them and cut a new hole - now the bracket lines up perfectly - many thanks for the tip of using these - they will certainly give me more space than the SD1 would have) so I'll start the chassis to mount brackets tomorrow.

Once again thanks for all your help - now I feel I deserve a beer...

CeeJay.

DELAGE
26-03-08, 07:43 PM
Many thanks for the pics Leo - I owe you a pint if I make it down to Stoneleigh this year!

I'm using Cortina front suspension but I should be able to use the same type of bracket you have used.

I've just finished modifying my TR8 brackets (In the end I welded up the top hole on each of them and cut a new hole - now the bracket lines up perfectly - many thanks for the tip of using these - they will certainly give me more space than the SD1 would have) so I'll start the chassis to mount brackets tomorrow.

Once again thanks for all your help - now I feel I deserve a beer...

CeeJay.

Ceejay I am not an expert on the Cortina set up but any help I can give just give me a shout. Make sure the steering colum is not going to collide with the engine mounting and also check there is plenty of room for your headers, if not modify the foot wells before the engine goes in proper. I have pictures of the correct engine position in relationship to the top & sides of the foot wells if you require them, but of course mine is a Jaguar chassis, get the engine as far back as you can even if it requires putting the battery in the boot. Heater could also go above the passengers side feet right out the way, just some suggestions. I know what it's like building a Viper I've been there :rolleyes:;) Best of luck.

CeeJay
26-03-08, 09:09 PM
Ceejay I am not an expert on the Cortina set up but any help I can give just give me a shout. Make sure the steering colum is not going to collide with the engine mounting and also check there is plenty of room for your headers, if not modify the foot wells before the engine goes in proper. I have pictures of the correct engine position in relationship to the top & sides of the foot wells if you require them, but of course mine is a Jaguar chassis, get the engine as far back as you can even if it requires putting the battery in the boot. Heater could also go above the passengers side feet right out the way, just some suggestions. I know what it's like building a Viper I've been there :rolleyes:;) Best of luck.


It'll take more than luck with this car! :rolleyes:;)

Thanks for all the help!

CeeJay.

steamyrotter
26-03-08, 09:39 PM
Ceejay.

Good advice there from Leo.
Battery in the back I believe is a must on the RV8 viper not just for space but to get a bit of weight backwards to balance things a little. The heater, if you are crafty, could also fit on the transmission tunnel above the gearbox / bellhousing behind the dash.

Not sure of the clearance on the jag chassis but don't forget to include the gearbox when placing it. I know it sounds silly but it is usually the obvious that get missed. It severely affects the ultimate engine location in the cortina chassis so much that you may need to modify the front cross member slightly to accommodate the lowest possible position.

You will have problems with the steering shaft to the rack and the headers, I believe these may be worse if trying to get a decent side pipe install. Underslungs appear to be slightly easier but there is a couple of potentially tight bends required especially on the front 2 cylinders on the drivers side.

However that said the achievement of sorting it is beyond measure and can be really satisfying.







Or so I keep telling myself:twisted:

Keep up the progress, you will beat me to the IVA.
Cheers

CeeJay
26-03-08, 10:25 PM
Hi Dean

The gearbox is in and attached to the mill - I had such a bastard of a Job fitting it that theres no way in hell its coming out again! As this is fitted (and secured to the gearbox support) it determine's where the engine will fit (Unless I want to shorten the prop-shaft - and believe me I dont!) so I now just need to sort out the height at which to place the engine.

Thats not as simple as it seems, due to the addition of the blower on my motor. Too low and the lower pulley (which is oversized and drives the blower - see attached pic) catches on the steering rack (Dont think that would be too good an idea!) so the engine needs to be high enough not to catch that. But then the engine needs to be low enough so that the plenum doesnt hit the bonnet. Seems simple enough but of course the body isn't on the chassis so its a case of fit it and hope...

The exhausts I'm relieved to say wont be my problem - I'll employ some otther bugger to sort that out, and as for heaters, I'm in two minds wether to bother with one!

To think it was a toss up over buying a Cobra Rep or a Alfa Spider S4...

Wheres a tardis when you need one?

CeeJay.

kevchard
27-03-08, 08:07 AM
Hi Ceejay
I thought you have a 'proper' top mounted blower? Looking real nice with that lump hanging off the front of the engine.
With our 'non proper' V6 the front pulley fits down behind the Cortina subframe (in the moon shape). At times it looks as if it could be too low, but we had to consider plenum height aswel.
Keep up the enthuiasm :)
Cheers
Kevin
PS Any more thoughts on Stoneleigh?

CeeJay
27-03-08, 06:36 PM
Keep up the enthuiasm :)


Sorry but having to re-do the engine mounts a year after you thought you'd ticked that box is a little crushing. I just wonder if any of the previous owners of my cobra had more than two brain cells to rub together. I've spent more time fixing past cock-ups than I have actually building the car.

I'll try and be more enthastic from now on!


PS Any more thoughts on Stoneleigh?

I'f work doesn't interfere then yes, I hope to be there.

CeeJay.

DELAGE
27-03-08, 08:14 PM
Couple of pictures Ceejay of where the RV8 should sit, as you can see you may need to open out the foot Wells a tad :D I ended up with 46F-54R% weight ratio which is bang on. As I said put the heater in the foot well above the passenger's feet, right out the way, easy to get at, and the wife will need the most heat after all :rolleyes:

steamyrotter
27-03-08, 09:39 PM
I've spent more time fixing past cock-ups than I have actually building the car.



Spoken like a true Viper owner :cool:

That lump is a beast.

Leo I think you must have more clearance in your setup re the gearbox rear mount, that lets you move the whole lot back a bit more than ours?

Sounds like Ceej's is in roughly the same location as mine. I couldn't get it back any farther as the rear of the gearbox is 1/4 off the chassis.

If so Ceej then you will need the MINIMUM clearance you can get at the front cross member to ensure the plenum fits under the bonnet. I have 5mm at the front member and this allows approx 10-15mm clearance to the bonnet. Bit tight but it's in.

The other thing is wrt the body and tub arrangement. Have you got the moulded in round tunnel tub? (I can't remember!) If so there may be more trouble ahead mate.
I had to cut the inner tub out and raise the body to get it to sit at the correct height once the suspenion was levelled. (front was dragging the ground!! and the bonnet rested on top of the engine with 3" gap around it!!) this has caused more then the odd challenge.

Kev was lucky with his so mine may be a one off, as all vipers are apparently!
I think a lot has to do with the way you have the suspension setup and what day and time your body was "built".......

However don't get too wrapped up in it as there is always a way to sort things as i can testify.

And most of mine are cheap..........Cue Kev :twisted:

CeeJay
27-03-08, 10:20 PM
Yup I have a moulded in round tunnel tub and with your comments above ringing in my ears (or should that be eyes?) I think I'll just nip out and shoot myself...

CeeJay

steamyrotter
27-03-08, 10:43 PM
Don't panic too much mate.

It doesn't take long to get it like this:-

kevchard
28-03-08, 08:10 AM
Spoken like a true Viper owner :cool:



And most of mine are cheap..........Cue Kev :twisted:

Hi Dean
Well you have got lucky what with Purple AKs huge stock of spares (now filling up your garage instead) and your engineering mate part building your car in his workshop :rolleyes:

Ceejay
All i can say is stick with it, but if you bought a proper V6 it may have fitted properly (i'll get my coat and bullet proof armour on).

Cheers
Kevin

CeeJay
28-03-08, 01:33 PM
Ceejay
All i can say is stick with it, but if you bought a proper V6 it may have fitted properly (i'll get my coat and bullet proof armour on).

Cheers
Kevin

If anyone spots a 6' 3" red headed scotsman stalking the halls of Stomeleigh with a shotgun then you know who it is and you know who I'm after...

V6 in a cobra - next you'll be fitting a 1.6 Pinto for 'Fuel Economy...'.

;>

CeeJay

DELAGE
28-03-08, 03:25 PM
Ceejay/ Steamy, The Jaguar chassis has quite a wide tunnel constructed in space frame type and clad with steel it will even accommodate the V12 auto box.

Under-slung exhaust not recommended, but there may be room on the Cortina/Sierra/Granada set up to come over the axle which would help.

Steering column normally will go through the middle of the off/side headers and it is easier with side pipe headers as the don't hug the engine block so much as under-slung headers.

If you go for side pipes there is only room for one outlet through the body however, unless you go for Iain Jones option and the four pipes come out below the chassis rail (not cheap). You can see where the heater normally sits (Mini) but as I said it may well be better suited in the foot-well passenger side above their feet. That area is totally waisted and empty giving you much more room in the engine bay.

Ceejay as steamy says pay particular attention to where the steering column comes out in relationship to the O/S engine rubber mount it may well be the rubber engine mount will have to be situated further back than the O/S unit which I had to do on my car, just means modifying the metal bracket (TR8) that side and extending the platform back-wards to accommodate the SD1 rubber mount. Better checked at this stage rather than later :rolleyes::confused:;).

Iain
01-04-08, 12:07 PM
The Jaguar chassis has quite a wide tunnel constructed in space frame type and clad with steel it will even accommodate the V12 auto box.


Hi Leo!

Actually the Jaguar (standard V8 chassis) chassis won't accept the V12 Jaguar Auto box. If you wanted to fit that then Classic Replicas / Cobretti did do a different chassis (the V12 version) which had a more angled transmission tunnel making it an even wider fit around the bulkhead area. This was enough to accommodate the V12 auto box. However (disappointingly enough) the V12 engine didn't fit the V12 chassis so it's all academic anyway.

Hope this helps!

steamyrotter
01-04-08, 10:29 PM
the V12 engine didn't fit the V12 chassis so it's all academic anyway.



EDIT:-

The (Enter part description here) didn't fit the (Enter desired part location here)!






A Viper is not just for christmas, its for insanity!
:twisted:

CeeJay
02-04-08, 12:00 AM
EDIT:-

A Viper is not just for christmas, its for insanity!
:twisted:

To think with all the stress and trouble in the world, we select few go and make our days all that more hard by building a bloody viper...

We're masochists fair and simple.

Do we get a medal if we build a road going viper?

CeeJay.

kevchard
02-04-08, 07:14 AM
Not sure about the medal, but if built properly you get a MAC and a licence to deafen/scare people :)
Cheers
Kevin

DELAGE
02-04-08, 07:45 AM
Hi Leo!

Actually the Jaguar (standard V8 chassis) chassis won't accept the V12 Jaguar Auto box. If you wanted to fit that then Classic Replicas / Cobretti did do a different chassis (the V12 version) which had a more angled transmission tunnel making it an even wider fit around the bulkhead area. This was enough to accommodate the V12 auto box. However (disappointingly enough) the V12 engine didn't fit the V12 chassis so it's all academic anyway.

Hope this helps!

Hi Iain, how is the beast? MMmmm yes I stand corrected there, the front half of the tunnel is larger but of the same structure as the V8 as is the chassis. If my memory serves me correctly the V12 will go just, but you have to have a special very expensive exhaust system, I know it does go as I have ridden in one but not an impressive ride I must say, best regards

CeeJay
02-04-08, 01:07 PM
Well I've made up all the brackets I need and have trial-fitted the parts. Two problems have occured:

1) The engine is canted backwards - but I understand that it should be?

2) Now the steering column fouls the block-hugging manifiolds I'm using. Leo you
mentioned that your "Steering column normally will go through the middle of the off/side
headers and it is easier with side pipe headers as the don't hug the engine block so
much as under-slung headers."

What manifold are you using? SD1?

CeeJay.

DELAGE
02-04-08, 02:01 PM
Well I've made up all the brackets I need and have trial-fitted the parts. Two problems have occured:

1) The engine is canted backwards - but I understand that it should be?

2) Now the steering column fouls the block-hugging manifiolds I'm using. Leo you
mentioned that your "Steering column normally will go through the middle of the off/side
headers and it is easier with side pipe headers as the don't hug the engine block so
much as under-slung headers."

What manifold are you using? SD1?

CeeJay.

Hi Ceejay, MMmmmm only two problems how lucky can you get on a Viper build :D, "engine canted back-wards" who says that and I wonder why? From memory mine lays back around 3-4 deg as long as it's fairly in line with the diff the UJ's and slider on the prop-shaft should take care of the rest. The more level you are able to get the RV8 there is less chance of having to fit wedge type spacers in-between the Holly & inlet manifold if you are using one to sit it level.

I made my own headers out of 2:5/8th O/D mile steel bends, used a plastic funnel cut up as a pattern for the collector etc, however it may well be possible to modify some headers if you want an under-slung system, but you do need to go through the middle or there-abouts.

steamyrotter
02-04-08, 10:58 PM
Ceej

You need Block snogging manifolds rather than hugging!!

The front 2 driver side need to either be very tight, or go up and over the column.
Easy to say when you are making them but to buy would be a pain.
You may need to get them modified a little but shouldn't cost/take too much to do.

Here is a piccie of the first "bash" of mine but I think I may change them later! It's an old piccie and a must be said rough job!! I have prettied them up a bit but is definitely an area gagging for improvement as i think it will affect breathing...

As for engine Leo points out that you will need to get the angles to the prop right, and have it as low as you can frame permitting.

Cheers

CeeJay
02-04-08, 11:15 PM
Thanks guys - I can see that some exhaust manipulation is in order! The brackets are now in, so I'll start on the manifolds tomorrow.

CeeJay.

DELAGE
03-04-08, 08:37 AM
Thanks guys - I can see that some exhaust manipulation is in order! The brackets are now in, so I'll start on the manifolds tomorrow.

CeeJay.

Ceejay/Steamy will take some pictures for you today of header O/S and W.H.Y. it may well help. I got my flange plates for the headers from Custom Chrome, all four out lets are joined so much less chance of buckling, try and get hold of an old head to bolt too so on the final weld up after you have tacked it all together it wont move around too much, pic's to follow;)

DELAGE
03-04-08, 04:00 PM
As Promised a couple of pictures

CeeJay
03-04-08, 06:50 PM
As Promised a couple of pictures

Thanks Leo! I've left the exhausts alone today - after sorting out the mounts yesterday, I decided to have an 'easy' day (He says after spending 7 hours straight on the car) sorting out the Supercharger positioning and other odds and ends. Tomorrow I'll make a start on the exhaust, and I'm sure your pics are going to be a great help.

I'll probably be due you a pint - are you going to be at Stoneleigh?

CeeJay.

DELAGE
03-04-08, 07:18 PM
Thanks Leo! I've left the exhausts alone today - after sorting out the mounts yesterday, I decided to have an 'easy' day (He says after spending 7 hours straight on the car) sorting out the Supercharger positioning and other odds and ends. Tomorrow I'll make a start on the exhaust, and I'm sure your pics are going to be a great help.

I'll probably be due you a pint - are you going to be at Stoneleigh?

CeeJay.

No Ceejay sorry mate going to a show at Eastbourne instead too many t-ssers at Stoneleigh

kevchard
03-04-08, 07:25 PM
No Ceejay sorry mate going to a show at Eastbourne instead too many t-ssers at Stoneleigh


Well scrreeeewwwww youuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We're going.

DELAGE
03-04-08, 07:33 PM
Well scrreeeewwwww youuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We're going.

MMmmmm well okay Kev I will make an exception in your case :);):rolleyes:

kevchard
03-04-08, 07:38 PM
Shame you're not coming Leo we could have compared DMS chassis Jag vs Cortina.
Cheers
Kevin

Deck
03-04-08, 08:03 PM
Hi Leo
I see you haven't extended the primary steering column as "recommended". Does your secondary section go straight to the rack or did you put another universal in and then a 3rd section to the rack?
I've tried this latter approach and had to put a bearing and bracket from the chassis to hold the middle section. This got around the manifold neatly enough but I'm concerned about the legalality (SVA) and the feasibility of this many joints (2 double joints). It works ok on the test runs and I can't see any obvious problems but then I wouldn't...

Is this a viable alternative to modding the manifold?
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Cheers
Declan

DELAGE
04-04-08, 07:17 AM
Shame you're not coming Leo we could have compared DMS chassis Jag vs Cortina.
Cheers
Kevin

Morning Kevin, yes we could have done I guess, mind you I would have to come under cover now :rolleyes::). Wasn't referring to Cobra bod's by the way in my last post ;) was however expecting a barrage of abuse in the way of replies this morning but not one :confused:

DELAGE
04-04-08, 07:39 AM
Hi Leo
I see you haven't extended the primary steering column as "recommended". Does your secondary section go straight to the rack or did you put another universal in and then a 3rd section to the rack?
I've tried this latter approach and had to put a bearing and bracket from the chassis to hold the middle section. This got around the manifold neatly enough but I'm concerned about the legalality (SVA) and the feasibility of this many joints (2 double joints). It works ok on the test runs and I can't see any obvious problems but then I wouldn't...

Is this a viable alternative to modding the manifold?
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Cheers
Declan

Hi Declan, first off yes you are right I made a up-cock when shortening the Jaguar column (to short!) and for the SVA I did exactly what you have done I made up a self lubricating bush, welded it to the chassis which held the lower shaft in place and with the aid of two U/J's went round the chassis having gone round the outside of the header and onto the Mk5 Escort rack which had its 6" shaft cut off with a U/J welded to it.

At this point I should explain my chassis was meant to have a shortened left hand drive Cortina rack but supplies were limited at that time and very expensive, so I opted to modify the whole lot and fit the Escort rack instead; in hind site I wish I had not.

Anyway I was never very happy with the set up and as you have all ready guessed the SVA man was none to impressed either although he did say he could not fail it for that but suggested I change it at a latter date. The situation some years on as you say may well have changed (see next post)

DELAGE
04-04-08, 07:50 AM
Declan, I then made up a new column went through the middle of the headers which I had to modify, which were under-slung type at that time.

I still was none to happy with a U/J welded to the rack, so cut a long story short made another shaft, fitted another Escort rack leaving the full length shaft and used the proper Mk5 coupling for the rack and in-between time went for side pipes which was the best move I ever made.
Hope this helps, come back to me for more info if required :cool:

kevchard
04-04-08, 06:37 PM
Morning Kevin, yes we could have done I guess, mind you I would have to come under cover now :rolleyes::). Wasn't referring to Cobra bod's by the way in my last post ;) was however expecting a barrage of abuse in the way of replies this morning but not one :confused:

You'll have to try harder next time Leo, perhaps individually naming people may get a rise :P.
Cheers
Kevin

Deck
04-04-08, 06:38 PM
That does help thanks.
Hopefully SVA man will still see it as ok. Its not a complete NO! anyway so that's good.
Problem with me is I used bmw column and ujs, mainly cos the splines matched the sierra rack (a definite "sign"!)...that exposes my methodology!!


Somehow I don't think the steering'll be the only problem ;)

Cheers
Dec