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dolphinboy400
17-05-08, 08:48 PM
Well , things were going fairly well i had got most of what i needed to do worked out and planned. I was gonna try and raise the engine slightly to get at the sump, i had some free time today so i thought i'll get get it ready and do all the prep work etc.

started to take the headers off , what a nightmare, ending up with alot of swearing scraped knuckles and got them off along with the side pipes, ( left a trail of rust as i carried them outside hehe ) . Took the inner front wheel arches off ( thank god they were screwed in with rivnuts), and started to have a good poke around. I discovered that the steering rack boots are totally shot as are the rubber bushes on the front wishbones! Thank god the sump needed taking out otherwise who knows what would have happened if i had just started the engine and gone for a pootle :o

After that discovery i thought i may as well have a good look over the car again , and to my surprise found more faults all over, mainly little things like the overider bolts only done up hand tight, as well as the gearbox mounts only hand tight!

So after all this i just thought 'sod it', i'll do as dave suggested when he came over ( keane ), and remove the body completly fix the stuff that needs fixing paint the chassis and sort the engine out when the body comes off.

a couple of questions:

Is the fuel tank supposed to have a fixing somewhere? All that was on mine was the spare wheel bracket which would stop the tank coming out completly but wouldnt stop it moving around. i was a bit worried (when i eventualy get it on the road ) that i may be a tad risky with a full tank of flamable petrol.

I need to raise the steering wheel about another inch, do you thinl it would be ok to angle grind the existing bracket off and weld another with longer slots ( see photo). just wondered what you other ram bods did , or are you all 5'8" ? ;)

craggle
17-05-08, 08:52 PM
Good call Danny

Get it stripped down and sort it all out properly once and for all. You should end up with a great car once it's done.

Keep us up to date with progress.

Craig.

dolphinboy400
17-05-08, 08:54 PM
little pile of rust out of one exhaust.

the lovely looking headers which i hope will clean up ok, they still feel pretty solid.

the boot.

a pic with the dash removed and the cross member. just for info purposes ;)

obviously any and all advice and pi$$ taking welcome. looks like i now have a real job on my hands , but it will be worth it. Semi-rebuild here i come!

bitsilly
18-05-08, 04:44 PM
The petrol tank looks bigger than my one, but if it is the right size, there should be a tab above the tank in the middle, then two more point below where thos bolt heads are showing. An inverted V shaped bracket then attaches to hold the tank in.
Removing the body is a big job only worth doing if you are in the mood for a major rebuild.
To get the body off all the loom will need to be threaded out of where it passes through the body, disconnect handbrake or cut body around it, steering column out, pedal box needs to be removed, front and rear sub frames out (so radiator out) etc.
I would say the Ram is worth sorting as it is certainly one of the better chassis but removing the body is such a big step, you are talking do a full rebuild to make the most of having the body off.
I would advise you to ring me as I am in the middle of doing all the above, and there is much we could talk about!
Ward for example sell polyurathane bustse for the front, I have fitted power steering and traction control, the bonnet hinges could be re-done to allow the bonnet to go up further, there is an easy mod to allow twin roll bars if you have an early chassis etc................
If you fancy a chat pm me with a phone no.
Ed

dolphinboy400
18-05-08, 06:56 PM
The petrol tank looks bigger than my one, but if it is the right size, there should be a tab above the tank in the middle, then two more point below where thos bolt heads are showing. An inverted V shaped bracket then attaches to hold the tank in.
Removing the body is a big job only worth doing if you are in the mood for a major rebuild.
To get the body off all the loom will need to be threaded out of where it passes through the body, disconnect handbrake or cut body around it, steering column out, pedal box needs to be removed, front and rear sub frames out (so radiator out) etc.
I would say the Ram is worth sorting as it is certainly one of the better chassis but removing the body is such a big step, you are talking do a full rebuild to make the most of having the body off.
I would advise you to ring me as I am in the middle of doing all the above, and there is much we could talk about!
Ward for example sell polyurathane bustse for the front, I have fitted power steering and traction control, the bonnet hinges could be re-done to allow the bonnet to go up further, there is an easy mod to allow twin roll bars if you have an early chassis etc................
If you fancy a chat pm me with a phone no.
Ed

you have a PM ;)

Clarkson
21-05-08, 01:55 PM
I wonder if I have a RAM body on my car,cause the boot is the same as mine esp the spare wheel well! Tank looks the same too. I have ali straps that hold my tank in. I'll see if I can do a pic for you to explain further.

Steve
21-05-08, 02:21 PM
dave

thr sr boot does look like the ram boot, but i dont think yours is a ram

dolphinboy400
21-05-08, 05:31 PM
I wonder if I have a RAM body on my car,cause the boot is the same as mine esp the spare wheel well! Tank looks the same too. I have ali straps that hold my tank in. I'll see if I can do a pic for you to explain further.

i did wonder what everyone else has in their cars as far as the fixing goes. The bracket i got basically will stop the tank coming back but there is nothing stopping it moving an inch from side to side. another couple of weeks and i'll have the body off :D

daz427
21-05-08, 07:57 PM
Hi Danny
I took the body off my RAM recently and it's not so bad!I got to the same point as yourself where I was finding more and more badly fitted/fabricated parts so said sod it and did it.You will need some strong mates though.And do take the front wheels off!!!I thought I could get away without and ended up winding up my strong mates as they had to hang around while i did!!!I was sent a copy of the RAM build manual on CD from a very kind gent on here and just read it backwards!!!!!My car doesn't have a wheel well like yours though.My wheel would appear to lay flat in the bottom.I have to fabricate a fuel tank as mine has developed legs!!
Keep posting pics as it is great to see what others are up to.My new toy(3wk old daughter!!!) has put pay to progress for now!!!!
Regards
Daren

dolphinboy400
21-05-08, 08:30 PM
Hi Danny
I took the body off my RAM recently and it's not so bad!I got to the same point as yourself where I was finding more and more badly fitted/fabricated parts so said sod it and did it.You will need some strong mates though.And do take the front wheels off!!!I thought I could get away without and ended up winding up my strong mates as they had to hang around while i did!!!I was sent a copy of the RAM build manual on CD from a very kind gent on here and just read it backwards!!!!!My car doesn't have a wheel well like yours though.My wheel would appear to lay flat in the bottom.I have to fabricate a fuel tank as mine has developed legs!!
Keep posting pics as it is great to see what others are up to.My new toy(3wk old daughter!!!) has put pay to progress for now!!!!
Regards
Daren

congratulations on your daughter ! mine is almost 2 yrs old now , your gonna have some fun ;)

It's great to hear of another Ram owner going through similar stuff, would be great to see some pictures of what your doing if you get the time :D

i decided after visiting andicole01's blog that it would be a good idea to do the same sort of thing, so ive started that with pics as i go. It's mainly for me but also for anyone who wants help or how not to do it hehe. I found it very hard to get much info on Ram's and it's mainly through this forum that i have what i do now. I got a CD in the post to me from a very nice bloke with the build manual and some other bits so i cant wait for that :D

The last bit of removals is next then the body off.

blog address: my Ram restoration (http://dolphinboysram.blogspot.com/) (i hope thats not against the forum rules, if so let me know ) .

dolphinboy400
24-05-08, 05:16 PM
took some more stuff off today, doors , windscreen, handbrake and bearstick to name a few :D

One problem ive got is with the drivers side stricker plate. the studding snapped ( well it was half way there till i saw a crack and made it bigger :rolleyes: ). Do any of you know if this was a DIY part or if it was supplied with the kit?

i dont know what the previous owner used to repair the holes he made in the tub but it was a right pain in the a$$!

The last photo is just to say 'storage space helps loads!' :D

The fuel tank issue- i luckily got a copy of the Ram manual ( reminds me of the classic replicas viper manual !), and it appears that the fixing for the tank was correct so with that in mind i will have a look at making some fixings for the bottom corners of the tank to minimise the tank moving. I'll let you know how i get on with that :)

TINKA
24-05-08, 05:31 PM
Exactly which bit is it that you mean snapped on the striker plate :confused:

bitsilly
24-05-08, 06:32 PM
Looks like the threaded bar has snapped? You may be able to cut some more off (so weld is out of the way) and then weld it back on, but I guess you could get the part new somewhere! I think they are called the MGA type?

dolphinboy400
24-05-08, 07:32 PM
Exactly which bit is it that you mean snapped on the striker plate :confused:

as Ed said its the threaded stud that snapped. i dont think i could get the stud out as i think the tube was welded with the stud in it. i dont know how clear that looks on the pic. Would it be something that might be at the Exeter show in November as it's not an urgent part that i need to get now :D

TINKA
24-05-08, 07:36 PM
Yes I think I know what you mean now. If they are any use to you I have a couple of those strikers that I don't use any more as I have fitted bear claw catches now.

Purple AK
24-05-08, 09:21 PM
If Tinka doesn't deliver (not that he's planning on delivery at the moment ;)) S&J Motors sell the bit you need 01257262881

neil still building it
24-05-08, 10:05 PM
hi danny ,
i just popped outdoors and took a couple of shots of what i have installed in situ in my ram..
the main body of the bracket is indeed steel with a welded threaded tube attached,the part you have that's snapped is though brass (although mine has a steel spacer in the photos..)so if you could drill into the brass (and get a good fit with a stud removing tool and take the tool back out )now if you can heat the items up with a blowtorch they'll get easier to separate when you quickly refit the tool to remove it

dolphinboy400
24-05-08, 11:32 PM
Yes I think I know what you mean now. If they are any use to you I have a couple of those strikers that I don't use any more as I have fitted bear claw catches now.

let me know how much you want for them via pm, allways usefull to have a spare ;) I appreciate it :D

thanks for that purple ;)

thanks for the photo's neil, although im not sure heating it up will work. I dont know why but if you look at my pic you will see that for some reason part of the tube has been ground away :? . I dont know if thats the way they locked the thread in the tube or not. Either way the plate obviously wasnt quite lined up as the previous owner said he allways had to shut the drivers door with a 'bit more ooomph' :rolleyes: Hopefully tinka's will match and problem solved :D Saves me having to get the mig welder out as i would need to practice for a day just to get a good weld, it's been 2 years since i last used it hehe.

TINKA
24-05-08, 11:53 PM
You have mail Danny

neil still building it
25-05-08, 09:14 AM
hi danny
i think you'll find if you look into the space where the latch assembly came out of there's a diagonal chassis part in the way so they have to shave the latch holder to make it fit -i think i was able to shim mine a little to avoid some of what was done to yours though....
the likely problem is that you have to keep screwing it in to get everything lined up and still keep it 'tight' enough so it won't shift..please do try to add that bit of tube around the latch as i have in the pics as this helps to support what is in reality a thin section of brass weakened by threading ,and prone to much flexing .
-it'll break again for sure left like that ,its just a case of how long and when otherwise
i'd still try and reuse what you have...as from memory there's a double row of weld to space it to the correct thickness..you'll have plenty of fun making one of those..
neil

dolphinboy400
25-05-08, 09:17 AM
i will do as you suggest neil and use tubing.

mylesdw
25-05-08, 10:01 PM
As regards the fuel tank fixing I can confirm that the standard set-up works fine; you really don't need any extra tank fixings indeed that might make matters worse by transferring loads from the body onto the tank. You stick some chassis tape (closed cell foam tape) to the shelf that the tank sits on and also to the back of the A-frame bracket. Certainly on mine the tank is a pretty snug fit by the time the bracket is all bolted up. Incidentally, the A-frame is not just a spare wheel bracket, it provides support from the chassis to the top of the tub.

dolphinboy400
26-05-08, 12:55 AM
As regards the fuel tank fixing I can confirm that the standard set-up works fine; you really don't need any extra tank fixings indeed that might make matters worse by transferring loads from the body onto the tank. You stick some chassis tape (closed cell foam tape) to the shelf that the tank sits on and also to the back of the A-frame bracket. Certainly on mine the tank is a pretty snug fit by the time the bracket is all bolted up. Incidentally, the A-frame is not just a spare wheel bracket, it provides support from the chassis to the top of the tub.

cheers for that miles :D the A-frame didnt go all the way up to the underside of the tub if thats what you meant, it only goes to the top of the tank.

anyhoo ill use the tape , i'll see whats there when i take it out and let you know :)

thanks for the help/advice guys ;)

Clarkson
26-05-08, 01:10 AM
cheers for that miles :D the A-frame didnt go all the way up to the underside of the tub if thats what you meant, it only goes to the top of the tank.

anyhoo ill use the tape , i'll see whats there when i take it out and let you know :)

thanks for the help/advice guys ;)

My camera is not working. Have you got a camera phone and I'll text you a pic tomorro. PM me your number.

mylesdw
26-05-08, 01:34 AM
cheers for that miles :D the A-frame didnt go all the way up to the underside of the tub if thats what you meant, it only goes to the top of the tank.

anyhoo ill use the tape , i'll see whats there when i take it out and let you know :)

thanks for the help/advice guys ;)

It should go all the way to the top and bolt to a piece of angle sticking down just forward of the boot lip. I don't have a picture handly I'm afraid.

dolphinboy400
26-05-08, 09:35 AM
ya thats whats missing , just had a better look at the build manual copy i got and it looks like something is there in the pic and it makes sense ! no wonder.

DIRK BROWNFINGER
03-06-08, 01:09 PM
Re the fuel tank, mine has ally straps and also the triangular chassis piece. It sits on some 1/4 inch thick rubber/foam matting. Its pretty snug - I couldnt get my tank out unless I slid the mat out first while wedging the tank up! You def want the chassis piece in case you get a big rear shunt!

Good luck!

Dirk.

daz427
08-06-08, 09:32 PM
Hi Danny,
Sorry I've been quiet,but (now)5week old daughter takes up my time as well as my money!!!You are right though she is a lot of fun!Not sure how to add pics to my post,will have a go later!!!I think my car is the twin of yours!My calipers looked identical to yours when I stripped them off.That link you posted to Ward engineering showed caliper rebuild kits at a very reasonable price,£30 per rebuild kit and that includes piston.The cheapest i have seen including ebay.
My other passion is military vehicles and I have a 101 Land Rover that has a Rover V8 in it.I learned the hard way about the importance of dropping the sump and cleaning out the oil pump etc.I fired the engine up after it had stood for many years and all seemed fine so I totally resprayed the truck inside and out and ran it for about 10 miles before the top end started squealing like hell.The sump was full of sludge and had starved the top end of oil and trashed the rocker shafts very quickly.Ended up doing a full top end rebuild whilst trying to avoid scratching my lovely desert sand paint job!!If I'd dropped the sump in the first place it would have been a lot easier!!!
I see you are in Bournemouth?I lived in Dorset for a while and we still visit often.Now in Jersey.Will PM next we are coming over and maybe I could come and see your car?
Like I say,will try and post pics.Please keep updating your saga,it's always good to know your not alone!!!!
Regards
Daren

daz427
08-06-08, 10:29 PM
Hi Danny,
Lets see if this works!!!This is me mocking up the sidepipe position before lifting the body off.I want to fit the engine in the bare chassis to fabricate manifolds before body goes back on.

daz427
08-06-08, 10:32 PM
This is the chassis as it is now with the body off

daz427
08-06-08, 10:37 PM
This is my engine! I am very lucky as this is a genuine side oiler 427 ford motor with matching toploader gearbox.I never even realised this when I bought the car,was just told it was a big block Ford!!!Has cost me a lot of money since to rebuild and almost cost a devorce!!!!

slogger
08-06-08, 10:43 PM
This is my engine! I am very lucky as this is a genuine side oiler 427 ford motor with matching toploader gearbox.I never even realised this when I bought the car,was just told it was a big block Ford!!!Has cost me a lot of money since to rebuild and almost cost a devorce!!!!

Look at that! What more could you want for? A Ram Cob, a Ford Side oiler and a lifetime supply of Stella, all in your garage.;):D

daz427
09-06-08, 05:59 AM
Yeh,life is good!That's very sharp eyed Slogger!Unfortunately the stella is the fastest moving thing in that garage and will be for a while!!!The wheels of creativity need plenty of oiling though don't they?
Daren

dolphinboy400
09-06-08, 07:16 PM
looking good daz, your more than welcome to come round when your over next. :)

dolphinboy400
09-06-08, 08:47 PM
I'm gonna try and re-build the front calipers first and if they go well i'll do the same to the rears. I found a technique to getting the pistons out, a bit ham fisted but it worked, both the calipers have been wire brushed and sanded back ready for paint. I'll post pics up when ive done them :D

daz427
09-06-08, 09:38 PM
Hi Danny
Will PM you next time we are in the area.Actually going to UK this weekend,but flying visit.It is only the pistons and seals that deteriorate.The caliper casting itself has no real way to wear out and doesn't corrode in inportant areas,so as long as you can get old pistons out the kits including pistons from Ward should be everything you need.I removed my pistons by gripping them with a pair of mole grips and levering with two screw drivers as I could see the piston were corroded and therefore scrap.The caliper bodies are fine.Please do post pics and also let me know how you get on.
Daren

dolphinboy400
16-06-08, 01:45 PM
removed the water pump today to get ready for body removal, and was pretty gutted from what i saw. It needs completely revamping and more likley a replacement. The stuff in there is a mix of scale and rad repair i rekkon otherwise it is oil which is even worse. nevermind, at least i dont the a new pump would cost too much :)

dolphinboy400
27-06-08, 10:38 PM
Had some fun today, took the body off! All those of you that said it was a nightmare were right :) Trying to organise my brother-in-law and my dad to keep the nose down to clear the rear tube fixing were not working until i said we need to push it back first! they promptly did that and with 4 blokes pushing back the car fell off the axle stands!
No damage done luckily and the body came off easy after that hehe :D

Alot of cleaning and painting to do.

Which gearbox is it? It looks the same as a LT77 but the getrag is similar so i thought i'd ask you knowlegable lot :P

A pic of one of the front disks , if you look closely you will see a thick wire doubled over in two of the vents. it is similar on the other front, Is this some sort of balancing needed in addition to the wheels ? If not what are they for?

Miket
27-06-08, 10:58 PM
Which gearbox is it? It looks the same as a LT77 but the getrag is similar so i thought i'd ask you knowlegable lot :P

Definitely not a Getrag. ;) :D

stevem
27-06-08, 11:20 PM
Do you think it will ever go again ? Youve certainly got your work cut out there. Good luck with it Steve..

TINKA
28-06-08, 01:02 AM
Yes that is a LT77 gear box, you certainly have a lot of work to do there, :shock: good luck :D

dolphinboy400
28-06-08, 08:36 AM
at least now im almost on the re-build instead of the dismantle ;)

thanks for the box i.d.

one other question i forgot to mention, not so long ago one of you clever bunch told me how to check diff ratio. I may not have done it right but its an LSD and one wheel hub turned once and the propshaft turn 1.75 times approx. is it that simple i.e. 1:1.75? or is there another calculation?

craggle
28-06-08, 08:48 AM
That dosen't sound right.

If it's a limited slip diff and you turn one wheel the other wheel will also turn at the same speed with it, As if they are on the same shaft.

If you turn both wheels one turn then the prop should do either 2.88, 3.01, 3.31 or 3.54 turns

Craig.

craggle
28-06-08, 08:53 AM
Cars looking good now.:-D
Definitely the right thing to do.

I never worked out what the bent wire things were in the brake discs either but I also have them in my Range Rover discs. Wondered if they are some kind of harmonic damper to remove any high frequency vibrations that could cause squealing but just guessing.

Craig.

dolphinboy400
28-06-08, 06:52 PM
That dosen't sound right.

If it's a limited slip diff and you turn one wheel the other wheel will also turn at the same speed with it, As if they are on the same shaft.

If you turn both wheels one turn then the prop should do either 2.88, 3.01, 3.31 or 3.54 turns

Craig.

ok found a tag on the back of the diff :D i'm pretty sure it was 43/13 i did a rough calculation and got 3.3, damn that doesnt look right now i'll go check tomorrow. taking the rear diff out on my own was fun :D if it is a 3.31 what does that translate to in drivability/handling?

as for the turning of the wheels , i turned the propshaft and one wheel moved, i didnt turn a wheel hub. but i as understand if i turn the prop and both wheels move then its a PL diff :confused:

craggle
28-06-08, 07:20 PM
The 43/13 tag is the number of teeth on the pinion and the crown wheel.
If you divide 43 by 13 you get 3.31 so that is the ratio.

That should be fine for a Rover engine. I have a 3.54 in my Chevy powered car and you get great acceleration but a bit less top end speed.

If you can turn each wheel independently of each other then it is a standard open type diff or it's a completely knackered power lock one!:mrgreen:

Craig.

dolphinboy400
28-06-08, 10:24 PM
The 43/13 tag is the number of teeth on the pinion and the crown wheel.
If you divide 43 by 13 you get 3.31 so that is the ratio.

That should be fine for a Rover engine. I have a 3.54 in my Chevy powered car and you get great acceleration but a bit less top end speed.

If you can turn each wheel independently of each other then it is a standard open type diff or it's a completely knackered power lock one!:mrgreen:

Craig.

cheers craig :D

dolphinboy400
30-06-08, 05:45 PM
any chance some of you Ram owners would have the loom instructions and maybe the list for the bolt kit? I know its a long shot i just dont fancy having to measure every single bolt before i order some replacements! The loom instructions are purley informational as the loom is existing just needs putting right in a couple of areas.

bitsilly
01-07-08, 05:54 PM
Danny, send me an e-mail address and I'll forward my Ram loom instructions.

dolphinboy400
01-07-08, 07:20 PM
Danny, send me an e-mail address and I'll forward my Ram loom instructions.

PM inbound thanks Ed ;)

dominik
10-09-08, 04:53 PM
Hi!

Just take good care of that engine, mine blew, costing me a fortune...
A rod snapped...

If you open it up, I really advise to get an engine builder who has done MORE THAN ONE 427SO before. First upgrade: new connecting rods. IF you have the NASCAR ones, sell them for a fortune and replace them with good aftermarket rods.

I liked my RAM, great car.

Dominik

dolphinboy400
24-02-09, 02:10 PM
ok so almost ready for the body to go back on :D

I wanted to ask , would it be ok to fit the wheels on and tighten up wishbones before the body goes on or should i get the body on first? I know it would be easier to do the former but wasnt sure how the extra weight of the body would affect everything.

p.s. before you ask that is the new thing in air filtration on the carb . very expensive and difficult to set up. You wont see them in the shops till the summer ;)

wilf
24-02-09, 04:48 PM
Get the full weight of the car onto its wheels before you tighten the wishbone pivot bolts - i.e. try to have them at the mid point of their arc of movement.

dolphinboy400
24-02-09, 06:04 PM
Get the full weight of the car onto its wheels before you tighten the wishbone pivot bolts - i.e. try to have them at the mid point of their arc of movement.

body on then , oh well :( hehe

at least the body will be back on sooner ;)

bitsilly
25-02-09, 08:49 PM
Hey, looking good Danny!
When putting the body on, you have to kind of hook the front on before pushing it backwards as far as poss, then back down. You also need a few more people that to take it off. Get it back as far as poss. The test is the metal plate of the chassis and the corresponding plane of the fibreglass. When they get bolted together you may need spacers between and they are a pain to do!.
If I can help (verbally!) give me a shout.
Ed

dolphinboy400
25-02-09, 10:27 PM
Hey, looking good Danny!
When putting the body on, you have to kind of hook the front on before pushing it backwards as far as poss, then back down. You also need a few more people that to take it off. Get it back as far as poss. The test is the metal plate of the chassis and the corresponding plane of the fibreglass. When they get bolted together you may need spacers between and they are a pain to do!.
If I can help (verbally!) give me a shout.
Ed

ed how did you trim your engine bay? Did you have pre-cut peices from realm or did you do it yourself?

I nicked some stainless steel panelling off my neighbours old cooker and plan on using that :D

FatBoy
25-02-09, 10:38 PM
This is my engine! I am very lucky as this is a genuine side oiler 427 ford motor with matching toploader gearbox.I never even realised this when I bought the car,was just told it was a big block Ford!!!Has cost me a lot of money since to rebuild and almost cost a devorce!!!!

Looks good.:cool:
Do you know if it has a steel crank or a cast crank? There was a multitude of different versions of "side-oilers" and some were marine engines whilst others were "industrial". Most if not all of these had cast cranks with standard type rods. The forged steel cranks tended to use the "Le Mans" rods. You're unlikely to have the rarer and very heavy NASCAR rods.
The engine looks very fetching in blue, but were you aware that they were originally painted black?

Paul

TonyD
26-02-09, 12:54 AM
Looks good.:cool:

The engine looks very fetching in blue, but were you aware that they were originally painted black?

Paul

Yes, but everyone knows that blue painted blocks are more powerful..........:D

Cheers,

Tony

bitsilly
27-02-09, 07:49 PM
Sorry Danny have been obsessing elsewhere for a few days (trying to buy a Caterham).
I actually used very thin aluminium sheeting to line the engine bay. You can cut it with scissors! I then made up some cardboard templates and cut the pieces. I stuck it on with silicone.
Stainless would be cool but much more difficult to cut and shape. My stuff will be beaten up in no time but I kind of like that as it looks a bit period.
Above all the AL sheet cost peanuts (got mine free), it is also really easy to shape, bash and bend. Stainless will be more trouble but if you have the tools, a much tougher finish! Lots of fettling required!
No idea what the off the peg stuff costs, but have you ever rung Realm Engineering, I find Adrian a really nice bloke! Thunder road would also give you a price (Cheng used to work for Realm).

dolphinboy400
27-02-09, 10:17 PM
Sorry Danny have been obsessing elsewhere for a few days (trying to buy a Caterham).
I actually used very thin aluminium sheeting to line the engine bay. You can cut it with scissors! I then made up some cardboard templates and cut the pieces. I stuck it on with silicone.
Stainless would be cool but much more difficult to cut and shape. My stuff will be beaten up in no time but I kind of like that as it looks a bit period.
Above all the AL sheet cost peanuts (got mine free), it is also really easy to shape, bash and bend. Stainless will be more trouble but if you have the tools, a much tougher finish! Lots of fettling required!
No idea what the off the peg stuff costs, but have you ever rung Realm Engineering, I find Adrian a really nice bloke! Thunder road would also give you a price (Cheng used to work for Realm).

the wife had her mate round with her little boy so i slipped outside for some r & r ;) I made templates out of paper lol, it worked though and marked and cut out on my salvaged stainless with my new air shears :D They came out ok need a bit of work shaping but i will post pics up tomorrow as i'm gonna put them on the body :D I prefered stainless as i'm lazy and just giving it a wipe every now and then appeals to me :mrgreen:

bitsilly
27-02-09, 10:26 PM
Ooooooooo air shears!!
Yeah well I could have them if I wanted you know, but I don't, so there!!

dolphinboy400
28-02-09, 08:57 AM
well mine cost £8 at aldi :D They have jammed twice but my fault on both times. The only tool that didnt perform was the air cut-off tool which works just not well enough or long enough on my little compressor. i take back what i said on the other thread ;)

dolphinboy400
28-02-09, 04:03 PM
all done except for the edging. :D

bitsilly
01-03-09, 09:36 PM
Looks good!
But is that burnt on grease??
Mine still not going anywhere. Must finish SVA soon!

dolphinboy400
01-03-09, 09:58 PM
Looks good!
But is that burnt on grease??
Mine still not going anywhere. Must finish SVA soon!

nah its not that bad comes off easily enough :P
I'm gonna polish it all when the edging is done but that will be the only time it will get a polish :D after that i'll just give it a wipe every now and then.

dolphinboy400
07-04-09, 06:35 PM
been trying to get the roll hoop in the last few sessions. masked up the body and done the holes etc. had the hoop stuck in the tubes twice! turns out ( and wish i had thought of it, ( thanks Cheng ), where the inside tube has been welded to the frame it distorted the tube to make things near impossible to get in which is why it kept binding up. Got my mate to source a honing tool or a reamer to open it up a bit ( again thanks for the advice Cheng! ). Then as the holes were done i thought i may as well take the masking tape off only for the paint to come off with it! :mad: Looks like the respray will have to come sooner rather than later. I have 2 big square-ish patches now where the tape used to be!
Luckily Cheng has given me a good price for getting it re-sprayed and i'll get the geometry done at the same time probably, just gotta find some extra cash now :rolleyes:

Other than that the front part of the loom is in , oil done, just need to get the cooling pipes sorted and the engine bay will be complete :D

dolphinboy400
03-06-09, 02:40 PM
finnished the dash today and hooked it all up. Connected the battery and turned it over a few turns to get oil pressure up. I have a big grin right now :D Only problem i could see is the indicators not working or the hazzard switch, ah just as im writing this i just realised what i have done ! hehe. sweet!

all thats left now is to get the coolant pipes and fittings sorted put some more oil in and fuel. Only a few more weeks to go!

i will atempt to upload video when i go for the big fire up.

bitsilly
07-06-09, 12:32 AM
Way to go Danny!
Cheng currently has my car if you ever end up there, also getting it painted and set up.
Whoa, cool if we get them on road for the sun!
So what you gonna upgrade first!!
Ed

dolphinboy400
07-06-09, 12:54 AM
Way to go Danny!
Cheng currently has my car if you ever end up there, also getting it painted and set up.
Whoa, cool if we get them on road for the sun!
So what you gonna upgrade first!!
Ed

hehe that obvious?

Well the first big job is a re-spray which i probably get cheng to do, after that who knows :D I wanna see pcs when you get it back Ed :D

dolphinboy400
11-07-09, 06:29 PM
well had some fun over the last couple of days. Got it all ready, broke the centre pin in the dizzy cap! ( DOH! ). Got a new one the next day, sender and internal fuel pump US ( b$**%cks! ), new one the following day ( thanks to rimmer bro's). Fitted all in and tested , plug on sender naff tried to fix broke one of the connectors! ( DOH! ). Got that sorted for now ( although i need to find another really).
Turned the engine over , fuel pressure guage reading just under 3 psi, It tried to fire but was just a couple of cough's really :( So now tomorrow i'm gonna have the holley carb out and stripped and cleaned on the kitchen table as i think it wasn't getting enough fuel. Poured some fuel into top of carb and nearly had instant fire then went to coughing again. so i think the needles are probably gummed up ( understandable after at least 6 years of no fire).

i just wondered if there was an easy way to remove the jets etc to clean without taking the carb out? no biggie if not .

I will let you know if it fires up and post my 1st u-tube video :)

Purple AK
11-07-09, 06:49 PM
Before you go stripping the carb Danny, try pumping the pedal a few times before you turn it over and see how it goes. Sounds to me like it just needs some extra fuel/choke. You could try setting the float levels but you can't untill the engine is running. Just a thought ;) Stripping the carb will need a rebuild gasket set unless you're that lucky! In which case your numbers will come up on the lottery as well, so worth a try :cool:

dolphinboy400
11-07-09, 07:19 PM
Before you go stripping the carb Danny, try pumping the pedal a few times before you turn it over and see how it goes. Sounds to me like it just needs some extra fuel/choke. You could try setting the float levels but you can't untill the engine is running. Just a thought ;) Stripping the carb will need a rebuild gasket set unless you're that lucky! In which case your numbers will come up on the lottery as well, so worth a try :cool:

i got the gasket set and some new needles that came with the car. Its automatic choke but i will try what you suggest. I dont want to take the carb out but servicing that will seem like childsplay compared to re-building the whole car, so long as i keep my 3 yr old daughter away from it :)

steve faithfull
12-07-09, 05:31 PM
i got the gasket set and some new needles that came with the car. Its automatic choke but i will try what you suggest. I dont want to take the carb out but servicing that will seem like childsplay compared to re-building the whole car, so long as i keep my 3 yr old daughter away from it :)


Hi Danny
If you need to rebuild your Holley don't forget to put a NEW Power valve in (donít use an old stock part) as it is lot of trouble to replace later and it has a Rubber diaphragm in it and if that should perish - crap running, as I found when I left me car for a number of years.

Regards
Steve

dolphinboy400
13-07-09, 12:03 AM
ya thanks steve i did change the power valve. Got it running at last! Need to take it out again though as the service kit i had was very old and even though the washers and o-rings were sealed there were some bits that wern't too clear. it seems to wanna suck too much air in so it will rev from 2k to 5k but wont idle. I'm gonna buy a new service kit and see if anything is different. also the float bowls were a bit naff if you ask me. Not easy to gauge at all and may need to sort those out again also if i can ever find any decent write ups on it.

Holley website is helpfull for part numbers and some tech stuff but no guides AFAICS.

anyway will keep you updated :)

dolphinboy400
12-09-09, 08:54 PM
Well im pretty much ready for MOT ( i hope ). The new carb is in and working fine. I had to put my old coil back in as the new flamethrower has died :(

It still sounds like it needs some more tinkering, but throtle response is good and it will idle at 950 - 1k revs.

Its been so long getting to this stage ( well it feels like it anyway) , the 2.5 months messing with the old holley didnt help.

Will it fail on the exhaust headers blowing a little? With my hand there its not that bad. Im lucky in one way that i have an MOT station round the corner, but i need to bed the brakes in, how many miles did you guys do to bed them in before MOT?

Wish me luck , hope to get it done this week :D

dolphinboy400
14-09-09, 05:39 PM
I managed to get the MOT done today


IT PASSED!!!!!!

cant belive it im so chuffed :D

Just need to do a few things, the rear need to go up a bit and the front shocks need softening as its a bit springy over bumps.

stevee8
14-09-09, 06:20 PM
Well done Danny.
See you and the car at the next meet perhaps???

bitsilly
14-09-09, 06:21 PM
Feels good hey?
Well done!
Mine is off the road awaiting new fuel pump!

Miket
14-09-09, 06:27 PM
Well done Danny.
See you and the car at the next meet perhaps???

Hi Steve

What's the latest on you Sumo??? :(

stevee8
14-09-09, 07:01 PM
Hi Steve

What's the latest on you Sumo??? :(

KGM made full payout for agreed value without quibble in May Mike.
I was pleased about that in itself but thought their service was lacking in some respects.
Apologies for going briefly off topic - blame Mike. :)

dolphinboy400
14-09-09, 08:28 PM
Feels good hey?
Well done!
Mine is off the road awaiting new fuel pump!

allready?!?!?! hehe what you been doing to that car ?

Steve, thanks mate , i will be coming in the cobra if the weather is kind. I was unlucky to not get it done for the weekend as i really wanted to come up but being so close i couldn't turn up in the tin top again ! Dont worry about going off topic , that is what this forum does :D
When I get those last little bits done , which should be by the end of the month you are more than welcome to come round for a spin as we discussed before :D

dolphinboy400
25-09-09, 12:13 AM
brother in law made me a new boss for the steering wheel instead of the plastic one :D

Sidecarbod
25-09-09, 09:11 AM
brother in law made me a new boss for the steering wheel instead of the plastic one :D


Looking good!

You should start flogging them! ;)

craggle
25-09-09, 09:19 AM
Or Motolita should.... Oh, hang on , they already do. :rolleyes:

Bet yours was slightly cheaper though.

Craig.

mattb
30-09-09, 02:25 PM
Hi Everyone

New to the Cobra Club. Could someone please help me out by letting me know how much leg room is in a Ram. I am concidering a couple of kit options at the moment but believe that the Ram would be a good buy. I have heard that they dont have a lot of width in the cockpit, which is not to much of a problem but I am 6' 1",so would I fit.
If not is there any modifications that can be made to the pedal box.
Any info would be much appreciated.

Matt

dolphinboy400
30-09-09, 03:23 PM
Hi Everyone

New to the Cobra Club. Could someone please help me out by letting me know how much leg room is in a Ram. I am concidering a couple of kit options at the moment but believe that the Ram would be a good buy. I have heard that they dont have a lot of width in the cockpit, which is not to much of a problem but I am 6' 1",so would I fit.
If not is there any modifications that can be made to the pedal box.
Any info would be much appreciated.

Matt

Hi matt and welcome ,

I am 6'2" and i had to mod the dash slightly also raised the steering wheel height and those 2 mods were just so changing gear would be comfortable. The ram kit has a tighter cockpit due to the transmision tunnel being so wide. Best advice before you buy anything would be to go along to your local meet and ask to sit in a few different makes to see which feels best.
Dont forget the Ram isnt available as a new kit anymore as far as i know. Realm engineering are the owners of the design and adrian cocking is still there and is very helpfull chap. If you can find a part built Ram then great but it will need updating for IVA unless you get lucky like me and it's already registered :D
There are plenty of other kits that may suit your desires better. Whats your budget and what engine were you thinking of using as this can have an impact as to which kit to go for.

mattb
30-09-09, 08:37 PM
Danny

The Ram I have been looking at is already built and registered (sorry didn't make it that clear). It falls with in my budget of between £15000 - £18000. Ideally I would like kit with a chevy V8 and side pipes.
My other option is buying a new sumo. Have spoken to Pilgrim and they have assured met that they have been putting right some of the small problems have been mentioned on previous chassis before Den took the reigns back.
Dont Know to much about the Ram and find it one of the hardest kits to find info on. Any pointers for what to look out for before purchasing would be much appreciated.

Matt

RogerKnill
30-09-09, 09:22 PM
the Ram was also available with an extended footwell, kit is good but as the support from the factory was hit and miss, build quality is down to the builder. Look out for rust on the chassis outriggers as they get stone chips from the front wheels and the powder coating is rubbish. I went in all other demonstarors at the time (early 90's) and the ram was by far the best to drive in, handles well.

but then i'm biased

dolphinboy400
30-09-09, 09:57 PM
as roger says, check the chassis for corrosion, i understand at the time of the ram being sold all powder coatings were hit and miss, sometimes you got a good job other times bad. Has this car in question got a chevy in it? If not you would be looking at 4-5k for the engine plus ancilleries plus gearbox and adjusted propshaft , so i rekkon about 6k at least to change what you have ( if its not what you want ) .

My chassis was pretty bad so i stripped it and re-painted it. The spax shocks that were fitted ( original ), 2 of them were leaking so they all got changed. If the car is all up together and you just needed to personalise it and maybe the mods like i have done then that wouldn't take long to sort out at all. I re-built mine from kit form and it only took 18 months ( 16 months if you dont count the carb fiasco :rolleyes: ).

I am sure there are some of the cobra club members in your area that used to own or still have Ram kits. Get along to your local meet and talk to some of them. If you cant wait till then you could give Cheng a ring at Thunder Road Cars, The Home of the Cobra Replica (http://www.thunderroadcars.com/) . he is based in London and always makes time for you even when hes flat out :D What he doesn't know about Rams is not worth knowing ;)

bitsilly
01-10-09, 05:16 PM
My chassis (completed build this year) had sat in a shed for 20 odd years and had absolutely no corrision. Once it was cleaned and the welding done it looked as good as new!

Honestly didn't know there were some rusty chassis out there!

As Roger said, build quality is down to builder. I would say that all the bits I got from Realm for my build were fine, and some were superb quality.

Rams seem to be being rebuilt around now, I have seen a few in the throws!

IMHO the chassis is one of the stiffest and safest. After that, everything else can be sorted!

mattb
01-10-09, 06:58 PM
The Ram I am concidering is apparantly a factory built car but registered as a Daimler. (this being the donor). I have been told that this had been done a few times in the past.
Can any one shed some light on this.
Does it matter it is not registered as a ram.
Has anyone else bought a kit registerd as the donor vehicle.

dolphinboy400
01-10-09, 09:13 PM
The Ram I am concidering is apparantly a factory built car but registered as a Daimler. (this being the donor). I have been told that this had been done a few times in the past.
Can any one shed some light on this.
Does it matter it is not registered as a ram.
Has anyone else bought a kit registerd as the donor vehicle.

i would say dont risk it, the only chance you have is if you can get all the old tax disks and mot's with the sale of the car to try and prove it has been in regular use with no problems , then , if your lucky , the DVLA might ammend your V5C. If it doesn't have those then you will have to stip the car and re-build it to pass the IVA, completly possible if you got the room and time but i dont think you have if i remember.

bitsilly
01-10-09, 09:37 PM
If it is registered as a Daimler, then it ain't a Ram!
This is such an old problem, and why so much is available on Ebay!
I would suggest you search the threads on this site a bit on this issue, but IIRC there is no defense any more, no amnesty, nothing, so you would need to get an IVA.
For a Ram, there is no real issue other than the seatbelt mounting points. Unless you have super low profile seats with VERY little padding, then you'll need to mount the belts in the roll over hoops as anywhere else is too low.


Danny, do you think we should wait until this thread has covered ingrowing toe nails and amazonian toads before wrapping it up and then start a new thread, or are we going for a record length thread for the Ram forum!!!

dolphinboy400
02-10-09, 12:09 AM
Danny, do you think we should wait until this thread has covered ingrowing toe nails and amazonian toads before wrapping it up and then start a new thread, or are we going for a record length thread for the Ram forum!!!

hehe well you could be right i guess. I could start a new one titled ' keeping the car on the road' or something lol.