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PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 10:51 AM
Hi there - Can anyone help! I took the car out today for its first run before booking in its SVA. All ok - engine turned after pumping petrol a few times and then off we went. No oil pressure light on but about a mile down the road the bloody oil pressure light came - no oil pressure on the gauge (said zero). When I put my foot down the oil light went off and the pressure slightly went up on the gauge. As soon as I slowed down the light came on again and the oil pressure dropped! Please can anyone help as Im having a bad time thinking I need to have an engine overhaul or another engine! Plus my poor wife is suffering as she is coming up with all these silly answers as to what it may be and im telling her shes to shut her mouth! ha ha! Poor wife is now telling me to go and get in the car and sod off! lol! I would but im scared of hurting my poor little engine anymore than it is all ready! lol HELP PLEASE!

craggle
14-01-09, 10:55 AM
First things first,

What engine is it?
Electric or mechanical gauge?
Does it have a separate sender for the warning switch and the gauge.
Is there enough oil in the engine now? (wondered if it is leaking out the bottom)

Craig.

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 11:01 AM
Hi Craig
Chevy 350
Mechanical pressure gauge
It has a sender for the warning switch
Theres approx 5.5 ltrs in there
No oil leak out the bottom

Paul

craggle
14-01-09, 11:26 AM
Hmmmm, That doesn't sound too good.

Only things that spring to mind are, remove the distributor and check the drive for the oil pump is still OK. It is possible that the flat tab on the top of the pump drive shaft has been damaged.

The oil pump drive has to be aligned when the distributor is placed in the engine. If it is not and the distributor is tightened down it can damage the pump, distributor or both. It usually takes some time to get it all aligned before the distributor drops happily into place.

One other thing is the oil pickup strainer is too close to the base of the sump and the oil is being restricted from flowing underneath it.

What's the history of the engine?

Craig.

JonnyT
14-01-09, 11:31 AM
Is this a new problem? Is it a re-built engine? If its the first time that she's been out / run then more likely to be an electrical / guage issue.

We had problems at first with our oil pressure guage. Easiest place to start is to get a mechanical guage and plug it into where the sender normally goes. Then crank a couple of times. This should build up the pressure nicely and then you'll be able to rule out the pump etc. (or of course not but at least you'll have a better idea of where to start).

Jon

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 11:32 AM
Craig

Can you see the flat tab easily?? Is it recognisable?

I will check all what you have suggested first.

The engine is one that I bought from an advertiser in the Which Kit Mag. The guy refurbished chevys. He delivered it here to me a few years back.

I had to give up on the building as I was diagnosed with cancer so was not fit enough to proceed with the build till I had finished chemo and got strong again and thankfully got the all clear.

Paul

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 11:37 AM
Hi Jon

This is a new problem as I have only took it out on the road first time today.

The engine was bought as rebuilt (but who knows!).......

I have a mechanical oil gauge reading the pressure.

There was pressure on the mechanical gauge but then dropped to zero as my speed dropped. The light then came on. Once I took the speed up again the light went off and the oil pressure slightly rose but once I slowed down again the light came on and the oil pressure went to zero again.

Paul

Noel
14-01-09, 11:38 AM
Is this a new problem? Is it a re-built engine? If its the first time that she's been out / run then more likely to be an electrical / guage issue.

We had problems at first with our oil pressure guage. Easiest place to start is to get a mechanical guage and plug it into where the sender normally goes. Then crank a couple of times. This should build up the pressure nicely and then you'll be able to rule out the pump etc. (or of course not but at least you'll have a better idea of where to start).

Jon

He's already said that it is mechanical :confused:

As Craig said.......doesn't sound good. He has also offered the best advice so far. I would also contact your engine supplier ASAP and explain things to him also. He deserves a chance to comment and offer suggestions before we do ;)

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 11:42 AM
I would contact the engine supplier but due to illness the engine sat in the utility room waiting till I recovered from cancer. I have tried to contact the guy who supplied the engine but he no longer has the number I had on his card. Its been too long.


Paul

JonnyT
14-01-09, 11:43 AM
Sorry Noel. Note to self - read post before replying. Only trying to help though!

The fact that its been sitting in the utility room doesn't mean that the engine supplier shouldn't help though. Ifs its not done anything and there's been a sudden mechanical failure when you first used it that's likely to be up to him or a problem with a part in the engine that he sold you (and therefore still his problem). The delay only makes proving that you haven't used it more difficult but sounds like you'll be ok with that. People may well know him on here.

craggle
14-01-09, 11:45 AM
As both the warning light and the gauge are confirming each other I would be tempted to rule them out.

If the distributor is removed the tab can be clearly seen down the bottom of the hole.
Mark the position of the distributor and mark the position of the rotor arm. Remove the distributor and look down the hole. You should see the end of the oil pump drive shaft sticking up. The rotor arm will rotate slightly as you pull the distributor upwards. Try not to turn the distributor shaft and don't turn the engine over.

If the oil pump drive looks OK flip the distributor over and take a look at the drive gear and slot that drives the oil pump shaft.

If all looks OK you should be able to simply drop everything back in place and line the marks up again.

Craig.

FatBoy
14-01-09, 11:50 AM
I had to give up on the building as I was diagnosed with cancer so was not fit enough to proceed with the build till I had finished chemo and got strong again and thankfully got the all clear.

Paul

Hi Paul,
Well done on the "all clear". :D
I've been there myself so I know that chemo and radio therapy is tough. I sold my last Cobra when I was diagnosed (didn't think I'd be needing it again), but I'm still here 8 years after finishing my treatment and now have a Kirkham. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

On the oil issue, do you know you have enough oil in it? 5 litres doesn't sound very much to me, but I'm no Chevy expert. Silly question, but have you checked the dipstick? If you have an oil cooler, a good quantity of oil will be taken up by that.

Cheers,
Paul

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 11:59 AM
Thanks Paul for the message and im glad to hear you are all ok after 8 years!

I have looked at the dipstick and that looks all ok. I wasnt sure how much more oil it would need seeing it was its first run.

I shall try all that you have said Craig.

Paul - I have no oil cooler.

All your help is appreciated!

Not sure if the guy in Brighton who sold the engine to me is even about anymore.

Paul

Dude
14-01-09, 12:02 PM
[quote=FatBoy;282818]
On the oil issue, do you know you have enough oil in it? 5 litres doesn't sound very much to me, but I'm no Chevy expert. Silly question, but have you checked the dipstick? If you have an oil cooler, a good quantity of oil will be taken up by that.
/quote]

My engine supplier said 6 Quarts of a good quality oil (with no oil cooler) that equates to 6.8 liters I think; you may want to check that.

Lloyd Barnes
14-01-09, 12:05 PM
[quote=FatBoy;282818]
On the oil issue, do you know you have enough oil in it? 5 litres doesn't sound very much to me, but I'm no Chevy expert. Silly question, but have you checked the dipstick? If you have an oil cooler, a good quantity of oil will be taken up by that.
/quote]

My engine supplier said 6 Quarts of a good quality oil (with no oil cooler) that equates to 6.8 liters I think; you may want to check that.

my small block chevy with an oil cooler took best part of 9 litres before it was showing correct on dipstick. Obviously depends on what oil pan and whether an oil cooler is fitted.

craggle
14-01-09, 12:11 PM
Depends on the sump.

I have a 7" deep Miloden sump which is, I think, the shallowest sump you can get. I used about 7 litres on initial fill as I have a cooler but now when I change it I use between 5 and 6 litres to fill it back up again. This includes the filter too.

As the pressure varies with revs I still think it's something to do with the pump or restriction under the oil strainer. Could also be a pressure relief valve stuck open?

Craig.

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 12:15 PM
Hi there

Its a deep sump and I used 20-50 oil.

Thank you for all the support.

Paul

FatBoy
14-01-09, 12:29 PM
I think I'd be inclined to stick another litre in and try it agin.

Paul

Neil O
14-01-09, 12:44 PM
Do you have an after-market dipstick? (Chrome fancy thing)
Some engine builders have complained in the past that they are not matched to the original dipstick and as such read wrongly.

Maybe someone here can measure their dipstick from the top down, so you can see if it matches? Of course this will depend on the length of tube sticking out of your block etc.

Noel
14-01-09, 01:48 PM
Sorry Noel. Note to self - read post before replying. Only trying to help though!

.


LOL.....I've been guilty of it myself more than once ;) :D :D

Neil O
14-01-09, 04:16 PM
LOL.....I've been guilty of it myself more than once ;) :D :D
Trying to help, or not reading the post?

The latter I am guilty of, the former, I hope not! ;)

Noel
14-01-09, 04:24 PM
Trying to help, or not reading the post?

The latter I am guilty of, the former, I hope not! ;)

Ditto Neil :p ;) :D :D

Miket
14-01-09, 04:27 PM
Just over 5 litres for a standard Chevy sump, even if it was a couple of litres short, it shouldn't effect the oil pressure that much on a short run.

Noel
14-01-09, 04:28 PM
Just over 5 litres for a standard Chevy sump, even if it was a couple of litres short, it shouldn't effect the oil pressure that much on a short run.

Agree, just over 5 litres in mine without the oil cooler :cool:

Neil O
14-01-09, 04:47 PM
Could it be a restricted pick up? Is the sump dented, or maybe the engine builder has used the wrong one?

Sidecarbod
14-01-09, 04:50 PM
This may have already been said, I'm at work and therfore can not spend ages on the forum reading all the posts but I'd do the following:-

1.Not fire up the engine until you see good pressure on the gauge without the engine running. To do this you should turn the engine over by hand by bumping the back wheel or via the damper bolt if there is one until the engine is at TDC on number one with the dizzy rotor arm pointing at number one post on the dizzy cap. All this is just to aid you re-timing the engine when you pull the dizzy off after marking it and the block.

2. Pull the dizzy off and make or buy a priming tool to spin the oil pump drive. Spin the drive with a good 240v drill at a nice steady speed whilst the ignition is switched on. The oil light must go out and the gauge must read good pressure. If the pressure does go up I'd try to run the drill for several minutes assuming that it does not overheat. this will prove whether all the oil is being pumped out of the sump as at some point the pressure will drop. Doing this might blow your drill up but it's better than running the engine and damaging that! You can not do the engine any harm at all by spinning the pump round!

Pete

adricar2
14-01-09, 05:12 PM
i would check the engagement of the oil pump drive, it would seem that this is not turning the oil pump.
if this is the case i would drop any oil from the sump. and look for metal filings etc, a rebuild/ crank grind will be required. i would also summise you could have put wear on to the camshaft lobes.

TINKA
14-01-09, 06:46 PM
I am no Chevy expert but I from what I have heard do not try to turn the engine over using the bolt which holds the harmonic balancer on as the thread is quite fine and could strip which would leave you with another load of problems. Unless there is oil pressure do not try and turn the engine over at all either by hand or running it. Best thing you can do after the things mentioned by craggle is remove the distributor and with a priming tool spin the pump with a drill and see if you can get some pressure, if there is no load on the drill (battery drills are no good and this will burn out a drill if carried on for too long) then the pump sounds like it could be faulty or there is a problem as previously mentioned with the pickup being too close to the sump. HTH

PORKYMONKS
14-01-09, 08:07 PM
Hi everyone - thank you for all your help.

I needed to have a rest after this morning as Im still not 100% strong after recovering from the chemotherapy for the cancer but I really appreciate all your help.

I havent felt strong enough physically nor mentally to attack all your suggestions this afternoon but shall once I get myself together!

The dipstick that I have is one of those fancy chrome things and it could be likely that this is giving a false reading. Any help would be appreciated.

Im hoping that after the oil thing this morning - it hasnt ruined the engine in any way. I really could do without that. I am trying so hard to get the car through the SVA before April this year as I have just forked out for the leather and carpets from Dax to now read that they may not be SVA complient after April. Apparently they will want the seats to have headrests added to them to pass the new tests.

I shall try all the suggestions you have given me.

Paul

TonyD
14-01-09, 11:15 PM
Given the fact that the engine does have oil pressure, albeit low, with increased revs I wouldn't think that its the oil pump drive. The pump is pushing oil around, just not enough of it or at a high enough pressure.

I'd be inclined to look for either low oil level or a faulty oil pressure relief valve ( broken spring perhaps).

Was the engine making any unusual noises before you stopped it ?

Cheers,

Tony

PORKYMONKS
15-01-09, 07:44 AM
Hi Tony

Thanks for the message.

The engine started to get a bit noisy just as I got it to the house and then switched it off.

Paul

simon
15-01-09, 08:49 AM
I am trying so hard to get the car through the SVA before April this year as I have just forked out for the leather and carpets from Dax to now read that they may not be SVA complient after April. Apparently they will want the seats to have headrests added to them to pass the new tests.



Paul, don't worry overly about that, I'm sure someone on this forum (or maybe dax themselves) WILL LEND YOU A PAIR OF SEATS TO GET THROUGH THE SVA TEST.

sIMON


OOPS, SooRRy FiNgEr TrouBLE

PORKYMONKS
15-01-09, 08:58 AM
Thanx Simon. It seems to be one thing after the other..........

Paul

PORKYMONKS
15-01-09, 09:24 AM
It would be a great help if anyone in the Essex area is ever free over the weekend to pop past and just give some guidance/support. Thanx to all of you!

kurrmet
15-01-09, 11:35 AM
Hi Paul

you may not want to hear this but I had similar problem to this on my 350 chevy with the oil pressure going up and down. when we finally pulled the engine out of the car and stripped it dowm we found that the block was porus around where the oil pump fitted and oil was just being deposited back into the sump and not going around the engine.

Result was a regrind of the crank, new main bearings and the same with the cam. :(:( plus a few other items.

PORKYMONKS
15-01-09, 11:41 AM
Hi there

You know when you think this is the problem but you just hope it isnt. Well thats how I feel at the moment.

Im pretty sure it means getting the engine out and doing all the same as you had to do to yours. Its enough to give you bad nerves! lol

Paul

andicole0
15-01-09, 12:16 PM
It would be a great help if anyone in the Essex area is ever free over the weekend to pop past and just give some guidance/support. Thanx to all of you!

Hi Paul, I should be able to pop over on Saturday morning, pm me your address.

Andi.

TonyD
15-01-09, 01:32 PM
Obviously increasing engine noise was not good news so I would assume that new bearings and cam may well be required.

If I was you I'd be searching around for the engine builder, as although time has passed the engine is, to all intents and purposes, still brand new, to see if he will fix under warranty. I'm sure that the googling / internet search abilities of the Cobra collective would discover a location for the errant engine builder in minutes.

If it was me I would be dropping the sump to check the oil pump and the block ( as per miss piggy's beau) but I'd also drop a couple of big end and main bearing caps to see if the bearings have gone. Also check all the caps for tightness and it has been known for main bearings caps fitted incorrectly to either crack or shift with resultant drops in oil pressure.


Best of luck,

Cheers,

Tony

PORKYMONKS
15-01-09, 02:59 PM
If it comes to it that the engine needs all the above, can any of you recommend anyone to do this work locally to me in Dagenham Essex??

jgfabs
15-01-09, 03:31 PM
If it comes to it that the engine needs all the above, can any of you recommend anyone to do this work locally to me in Dagenham Essex??
Sutton Rebore,in Sutton,Surrey.Not too far away.Google

COBRA KEV01
15-01-09, 05:36 PM
Personally i would always leave the expensive engine side of things to the professionals,these v8 engines are not cheap to mess around with.
How many people have to keep on removing engines because something has not been done correctly.As has been said you could do with getting hold of the engine builder himself and just hope he does the right thing.Ignore if money grows on trees where you reside.

Purple AK
15-01-09, 05:46 PM
Hi Paul. I'm not a million miles from Brighton and have many connections in the local Motor Trade, so if you post the engine builders details I'll have a dig around and see if he's still about. Or PM me if you don't want to post on open forum.

andicole0
15-01-09, 05:55 PM
If it comes to it that the engine needs all the above, can any of you recommend anyone to do this work locally to me in Dagenham Essex??

7-Indulgence aren't too far away (Brands Hatch).

Andi.

Geezer
15-01-09, 07:22 PM
Hi Jon

This is a new problem as I have only took it out on the road first time today.

The engine was bought as rebuilt (but who knows!).......

I have a mechanical oil gauge reading the pressure.

There was pressure on the mechanical gauge but then dropped to zero as my speed dropped. The light then came on. Once I took the speed up again the light went off and the oil pressure slightly rose but once I slowed down again the light came on and the oil pressure went to zero again.

Paul

Hi Paul

You could try to spin up the oil pump by using an electric drill. You can use an old dizzy shaft or a specific tool (you could fashion something up but be very careful), or maybe someone on the forum has some other ideas. Get someone else to check the oil pressure gauge and light or, better still, mount another gauge to a suitable take-off. At least it will tell you if the pump is delivering the goods.

Pete

427jlc
15-01-09, 07:52 PM
might sound daft but did the builder fit a high pressure pump, higher revs pumps faster, hence light goes out? I have also known on fords if you miss the gasket out between the pump and the block the pump can squirt it out the joint between pump body and block face resulting in low pressure going up the oil galleries.
Good Luck, shame to get so far and have this.

wilf
15-01-09, 09:13 PM
Probably about time someone gave the real bad news. (aka truth)

There is obviously a major issue with the oiling system on your engine, and having run it without oil pressure to the point where the bearings started to knock, it will need taking out, inspecting, and rebuilding as required.

You will need to find the cause of the lack of oil pressure - could be pump drive not engaged, or a missing oil gallery plug, or oil pickup too close to sump bottom/blocked with excess sealant or whatever. If you have anything like a remote oil filter fitted, it could even be incorrect plumbing to that.

Then you will need to repair any damage -at a minimum new crankshaft bearing shells IMHO, maybe a damaged crank needing a regrind, - this cannot be further diagnosed from behind a keyboard, only a proper physical inspection can do that. There could be other damage, like to the cam/followers. The rest of the valve train will probably have survived OK. Jury will be out on pistons/bores, but again the forgiving nature of these engines means they are probably serviceable.

This is really incredibly bad luck, but now the only way to fix things is to go about them properly, I am afraid, or there will be other issues you could do without, like a repeat episode.

I am very sorry to read of your story, the best thing we here can do to help is tell you like it is and then how/where to fix it properly. :(

If it makes you feel any better in the slightest, many folks here have blown up the occasional engine........and got through it to enjoy ther cars to the full.

Vidge
15-01-09, 11:27 PM
Hi Porky

Sorry to hear about your issue but until that sump comes off you won't know what damage has been done.

On the Chevy 350 engine there is no gasket between the oil pump and the block but I have seen issue's due to loose pickup tube's (my issues actually).

The distributer is turned by a gear on the cam shaft, on the bottom of the distributer shaft is a key that fit's into an extension shaft connected to the oil pump. On the cheaper pumps this connection is plastic and can be very easily damaged.

Drop the sump, pull the pump out with the connecting shaft and check it over. Also look for any metal at all in the engine oil when you drop it (steal the wife's flour sieve... (it's more fun if you don't tell her first)) pull the dizzy and check the key for damage.

While the sump's off drop the big end's and check the bearing faces to see if there is any damage. There's a very good chance that the noise you heard may have been one of the hydraulic lifters failing due to low oil pressure (make's a nice noise that).

You may get lucky. If not it's not really a big deal you should'nt need to many new parts to repair the damage and a crank regrind won't break the bank.

Good luck with it.

Andy

jgfabs
15-01-09, 11:29 PM
Hi Porky

Sorry to hear about your issue but until that sump comes off you won't know what damage has been done.

On the Chevy 350 engine there is no gasket between the oil pump and the block but I have seen issue's due to loose pickup tube's (my issues actually).

The distributer is turned by a gear on the cam shaft, on the bottom of the distributer shaft is a key that fit's into an extension shaft connected to the oil pump. On the cheaper pumps this connection is plastic and can be very easily damaged.

Drop the sump, pull the pump out with the connecting shaft and check it over. Also look for any metal at all in the engine oil when you drop it (steal the wife's flour sieve... (it's more fun if you don't tell her first)) pull the dizzy and check the key for damage.

While the sump's off drop the big end's and check the bearing faces to see if there is any damage. There's a very good chance that the noise you heard may have been one of the hydraulic lifters failing due to low oil pressure (make's a nice noise that).

You may get lucky. If not it's not really a big deal you should'nt need to many new parts to repair the damage and a crank regrind won't break the bank.

Good luck with it.

Andy
Best clean the sieve before giving it back!!!!!!

PORKYMONKS
16-01-09, 08:04 AM
Im going to spend this weekend trying all the suggestions you have all given me - im sure its leading up to getting the engine out again and having it all sorted out............ If any of you are ever this way - pop in and have a drink and watch me have a nervous breakdown! I may even have the sift over my head where the wife needed it after I had used it:evil: - or worse still she may have shoved it where the sun dont shine! :-D

simon
16-01-09, 08:19 AM
Paul,

You ok for an engine crane or engine stand? (torque wrench etc)
I've got both sitting here doing nothing at the moment. You're welcome to borrow either/both as I won't need them for a while.
I'm only in Upminster so pretty close to you (although if you do want to use them, you'll have to pick them up as the t*ts at the local garage have fu**ed my car up for me and they won't fit on a motorcycle!)
Simon

pm me for phone numbers if you want.

PORKYMONKS
16-01-09, 08:22 AM
Hi Simon - I have sent you a PM. Thanks a lot. Paul

Vidge
16-01-09, 12:16 PM
I'd come and give you a hand but the Essex border patrol won't let me in.

JonnyT
17-01-09, 10:23 AM
Paul,

I said it before and Chris re-iterated it. Obviously you want to get stuck into it but you should really try and track the builder down. If you don't give him the chance to sort the problem before you pull the engine apart you may be left high and dry and find yourself worse off. I'm sure nobody on here that's built an engine will say that they haven't had problems - its the way they are sorted out afterwards that sorts the men from the boys.

Jon

wilf
17-01-09, 10:50 AM
I hate to say this, but the engine is now "a few years old", and I doubt the supplier would be willing to do much about it. If they do, than that would be customer service above and beyond.

Just don't want to see hopes raised that are futile...........

Purple AK
17-01-09, 11:12 AM
I've just spoken to another respected engine builder in the know, And Grape Engines have been off the scene of a number of years. He did say that the probable cause of the problem is a sticky oil pressure valve, given that it has stood for some time. And you may well be lucky in that it has only done the crank.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 12:42 PM
Morning all - I have now drained all the oil out through a sift.There was nothing there. Took the sump off this morning and ran a maget through it and there was nothing there other than half a dozen bits of tiny grit. Im now going to look at the oil pressure valve (unsure where to look now as I have had a few different places told to me - can you help please!!!!!). Thanks for your support Paul

craggle
18-01-09, 12:44 PM
I thought it was in the side of the oil pump housing that stick down into the oil pan?

Craig.

Vidge
18-01-09, 12:55 PM
I'm almost certain that Chevy's don't have an oil pressure release valve at all. Both of my engine's just blow it straight out of the breather's on the rocker covers and makes a mess (I should put in a catch tank).

The oil pressue switch should be located behind the distributer or on the right hand side of the engine as you look at it between the oil filter and the headers.

I still think your pump's knackered mate and the rattling noises you heard were the hydraulic lifters. I've got a spare pump and bit's here if you get stuck.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 01:00 PM
Thanks Vidge. The offer is great! I have just meassured the oil pick up and it measures 7.3/4inch from sump gasket and ive also measured the inner measurement of the sump and that measures exactly the same? Should I be thinking right that there should there be a gap of quarter inch between the two??? Or does does this make no difference?

craggle
18-01-09, 01:06 PM
Yes, There should be a gap to allow the oil in the pan to flow into the pump. If the oil pickup strainer is flat bottomed and sitting on the bottom of the sump it will very quickly become restricted and not have enough oil to pump around the engine.
Most strainers have a steel bar welded across the bottom to prevent them sitting too close.
Any chance of picture of the oil pickup?

Craig.

Vidge
18-01-09, 01:08 PM
What craggle said.

Clarkson
18-01-09, 01:09 PM
Thanks Vidge. The offer is great! I have just meassured the oil pick up and it measures 7.3/4inch from sump gasket and ive also measured the inner measurement of the sump and that measures exactly the same? Should I be thinking right that there should there be a gap of quarter inch between the two??? Or does does this make no difference?

Yes!

Pull the crank bearing caps and check the bearings while your there.;)

craggle
18-01-09, 01:13 PM
Looks like the oil pressure relief valve is under the oil filter. If you remove the filter and take a look where it screws onto I think that is the housing that needs removing to find the valve.

Craig.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 01:23 PM
Thanks Craig. I thought there should be a gap. Im just going to take some photos to send. Not sure how to put them here for you though. Can you let me know how to do it and I shall attach them.

craggle
18-01-09, 01:29 PM
When you are typing a reply look a bit further down the page. There is a button there marked "manage attachments" under the attach files section.
If you click this another window pops up and allows you to browse to your photos and then press open. This brings the name of the files up into the manage attachments window and then you can press upload next to that.

Once done you can close this window and return to your typed reply. Once done reply as normal and your pictures will appear on the post. You can post up to 5 images on one post.

Craig.

Vidge
18-01-09, 01:30 PM
When you reply to the thread scroll down the page a bit and there is a "Manage Attachments" Button. Click that and it's pretty simple from there.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 01:33 PM
Ive managed to put them in my gallery but shall add them here too.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 01:38 PM
Hopefully they attached?

chevy country
18-01-09, 01:46 PM
Hopefully they attached?




Looks like a heck of a lot of sludge in that pickup for a rebuilt motor

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 01:53 PM
I agree! The oil went in clear and came out like black sludge!

Vidge
18-01-09, 02:08 PM
Look's like that's either sludge or the chaps packed the pump out with vasoline to prime it. If you've got a compressor take the rocker cover's off and blow the oil way's through. Make sure you put something underneath the motor though or it could get really messy.

I think you may have found the root cause of your problem porky, drop a few big end cap's and check the shell's whilst you've got the motor apart, clean it all up, slap it back together and see if you've fixed it.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 02:15 PM
Hi Vidge - Im bit worried about taking the caps and the shells off and I muck it up more by putting them back wrong. Ive took the pump off as you can see - gonna clean it up - look to see if theres any wear. Im going to order a new pump, oil filter adapter and new oil filter from Roadcraft Repower (unless you can suggest anywhere else?)

Steve
18-01-09, 02:43 PM
before you do anything like ordering parts, you really need to have a look at the shells & big ends.

Just take one off, keep the bearing in the housing, they only go back on one way

post a piccie. very easy to tell if they damaged.


no oil pressure + noise,= damaged something somewhere.......getting the oil pump working and running the block again might just make it worse

andicole0
18-01-09, 03:14 PM
It is probably worth taking one cap off and inspecting the shell, if it's OK then fine.

If there's a lot of sludge it might be worth running some flushing oil through first (I'm prepared to be knocked down here as I haven't heard much about flushing oil for years).

A new oil pump from Roadcraft looks like it's about 15.00 plus vat and del so shouldn't break the bank.

Did you find anything in the oil that came out?

Andi.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 03:14 PM
Hi Steve - inspected the oil pump and found that the actual oil pressure release valve was stuck and also wear inside the pump.

andicole0
18-01-09, 03:16 PM
Hi Steve - inspected the oil pump and found that the actual oil pressure release valve was stuck and also wear inside the pump.

Phew, it's always a relief when you find a fault ;-) Now clean it , spray it with pink paint and hang it on the wall, then get a new one ;)

Andi.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 03:17 PM
Hi Andi - I did send you an email as well.

There was nothing in the oil nor in the bottom of the sump other than a few grains of grit but the actual pump was knackered! The release valve was stuck tight and there was a lot of wear inside the pump.

Paul

jgfabs
18-01-09, 04:51 PM
Hi Andi - I did send you an email as well.

There was nothing in the oil nor in the bottom of the sump other than a few grains of grit but the actual pump was knackered! The release valve was stuck tight and there was a lot of wear inside the pump.

Paul
Hopefully not as bad as first thought!
Hope it gets sorted without to much pain!!

Clarkson
18-01-09, 05:03 PM
Not good news, but does not look like it's had a rebuild looking at that strainer!! Look at the oil next to it in the pic, oil looks very grey!! Full of metal me thinks.

wilf
18-01-09, 05:13 PM
Anyone stopped to think that the "black sludge" just could be assembly lube?

If the builder did do it properly, the cam especially should have been lathered with the stuff. Although the state of the oil pump might indicate otherwise......

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 05:56 PM
Hi Wilf - when I cleaned it all up it looked like gasket seal where the guy used it to put the sump on.

I can see where people thought there were metal bits in the strainer in the photo but that was just grey and black sludge caught in the strainer. I didnt find any metal in the oil - nor the sump anywhere.

Paul

Purple AK
18-01-09, 06:00 PM
Anyone stopped to think that the "black sludge" just could be assembly lube?

If the builder did do it properly, the cam especially should have been lathered with the stuff. Although the state of the oil pump might indicate otherwise......
My source did "decline to comment" on the build quality of the engine supplier. :rolleyes:

Purple AK
18-01-09, 06:04 PM
Hi Wilf - when I cleaned it all up it looked like gasket seal where the guy used it to put the sump on.

I can see where people thought there were metal bits in the strainer in the photo but that was just grey and black sludge caught in the strainer. I didnt find any metal in the oil - nor the sump anywhere.

Paul
Paul. Sorry but the grey sludge is almost certainly powdered white metal off the main and big end bearings. Please do yourself a favour and have a look at the shells.

Vidge
18-01-09, 06:34 PM
Hiya Porky.

A shell is basically a copper shoe with a lining coat. A lack of oil pressure will strip the lining almost instantly. You've got the sump off it won't take a moment to check the main and big end shells.

If it's a two bolt mains retorque them to 60ftlbs if a 4 bolt the inner's go to 65ftlbs and the outers to 70ftlbs. The connecting rods should be at 45ftlbs.

Post piccies of what you find and someone will let you know if there ok or not. (If you can see scoring or copper you need new ones and maybe a crank regrind if thats marked up at all).

Cheers


Andy

wilf
18-01-09, 07:23 PM
Wot they said - you HAVE to look at the crank bearing shells, mains and big ends.

PORKYMONKS
18-01-09, 07:26 PM
That is my next step. I couldnt manage to do it today as I felt a bit worn out after doing the oil etc. The after effects of the chemoterapy leaves me shattered. I shall let you know the outcome. Thanks guys for all your help and support.

andicole0
18-01-09, 07:32 PM
Paul, I think you've done well this last couple of days, given how much of your time I took up ;) But you have got to the main fault, it's now just a matter of checking for collateral damage and fixing it. I would say things are beginning to look up.

Andi.

Peter norris
19-01-09, 04:47 PM
I had a similar problem when I built my engine and it turned out to be the oil pressure relief valve had jammed open, so I removed the valve and the spring, cleaned it all up, put it back together and my engine is now 12 years on and the pressure is still great !

My engine was Rover V8 not a chevvy but I think all engines work the same with the oil pressure relief valve - it is certainly worth a look. :)

PORKYMONKS
19-01-09, 06:00 PM
Hi Peter - thanks for the reply. I have stripped the oil pump off and ordered another one etc as the one I took off was well and truly buggered!

Its good to hear that your engine has stood the test of time!

I shall let you all know how it gets on when I have another go this weekend.

Paul