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Ian 46
21-02-09, 02:20 PM
Whilst quite a few of you will no doubt be out driving in the sunshine, I am in the garage working away.
I have a couple of general questions which I hope someone out there can help me with. I've not worked with FE's before and want to get the engine bay connections correctly routed before dropping the motor in for the final time.

Referring to photo 003 My questions are 1) There is a remote oil line take off plate fitted to the engine and on the plate there is a small grub screw, is this where the oil pressure switch is located? 2) The sump has a blanking screw in the top of it, can I use this for the capilary oil temperature sensor? 3) The hole in block next to the oil take off plate is where I need to put a new dip stick, any supplier suggestions? I caught my leg on the original dip stick when walking past the engine and snapped it in two. Doh!

Referring to photo 007 the question is, what is/could this smaller threaded sump take off point be for?

Referring to photo 005. I want to get a better quality water drain tap. Is something more robust available?

Referring to photo 008. My engine came with these Acel HT leads. Are they good enough for IVA or will I have to replace the set?

Thanks in anticipation Ian

FatBoy
21-02-09, 04:44 PM
Hi Ian,
I'm just about to go out in mine, but I'll answer your questions before I go. ;)

Question 1: Yes, this is where the oil pressure sender goes.
Question 2: Yes, this is where the oil temperature sender goes.
Question 3: Any of the UK American engine suppliers/builders should be able to supply a new dip-stick.
Photo 007: This is an alternative dip-stick location and is where I have mine.
Photo 005: The one you have is fine and fit for purpose. In all likelihood, you won't ever use it as there are easier places to get to to drain some water off e.g. the bottom of the rad.
Photo 008: They are good quality coil-wound plug leads and must be used if you also have an MSD ignition system. Dave Brookes is putting a car through IVA with those leads on, so I don't think there would be a problem because he would know if there was.

I hope that helps. I'm off for a drive now. :cool:

Paul

Neil O
21-02-09, 08:43 PM
Ian, if you use the top of the sump for oil temp, be aware that it may read low on the motorway as it is in the airflow. Mine does this.
The new sump guard I am making will hopefully cure this.

I assume you are fitting the remote oil filter jobby?
If so, you may need a different take off plate from SA. The one you have is difficult to get the fittings into as they are too close together. They sent me a different block with one hole in the side and one in the face.
I can take a pic if you need it.:-D

Not sure how Paul has done his in this area, maybe a different solution?

FatBoy
21-02-09, 08:53 PM
Ian, if you use the top of the sump for oil temp, be aware that it may read low on the motorway as it is in the airflow. Mine does this.
The new sump guard I am making will hopefully cure this.

I assume you are fitting the remote oil filter jobby?
If so, you may need a different take off plate from SA. The one you have is difficult to get the fittings into as they are too close together. They sent me a different block with one hole in the side and one in the face.
I can take a pic if you need it.:-D

Not sure how Paul has done his in this area, maybe a different solution?

I didn't use the SA supplied block as Kirkham provide a very nice unit with their remote oil cooler kit machined from aluminium and with an o-ring gasket. I think my SA block has both connection on the same face, otherwise you could have had that one.
Neil, which dip-stick hole is used on your engine, because they seem to vary with different engines supplied?

Paul

Ian 46
22-02-09, 09:49 AM
Neil and Paul, thanks for the info.

Neil if you could send me a photo of your take off block I can get an idea of how it is different to the SA one. Do I have to go back to SA or can I get one in this country?
I was going to add a stainless steel plate in front of my engine to act as a 'sump guard' (would make a noise at first sign of reduced ground clearance) so that could also act as heat shield to the canton sump.

Ian

FatBoy
22-02-09, 09:58 AM
Whilst the oil temp might read a little low, I don't think it should be of real concern as your are unlikely to have overheating problems at speed on a motorway unless you're really thrashing it and your water temp gauge will give you early warning of any pending problems.
In fact, you are much more likely to experience over-cooling problems with an oil cooler. I had to blank off my oil cooler driving to Le Mans to try to get teh temperature up a bit.
If my spare adapter plate is suitable, you're more than welcome to it.

Paul

FatBoy
22-02-09, 10:41 AM
Hi Ian,
I've looked at the pictures in your gallery and the engine looks great. Is it a stroked 428?
My only comment would be regarding the clutch bell-housing. I would strongly advise you to consider a scattershield of one kind or another. You have a big powerful engine, capable of generating huge loads and it is not unheard of for clutches or even flywheels to let go; and when they do go, they go is spectacular and dramatic fashion. Now consider that your ankles are level with the flywheel and it doesn't take much imagination to picture the possibilities. A cast bellhousing like the one you have will offer little if any resistance to an exploding flywheel assembly. A steel rather than cast flywheel will reduce the risk, but you still have the clutch to consider.

My remote oil filter adapter plate is different to your. If you can measure the distance between the centres of the outlets, I'll go and measure mine to see if there is any difference and if there is, you can have mine if you want it.

Regards,
Paul

chevy country
22-02-09, 11:31 AM
Hi Ian,
I've looked at the pictures in your gallery and the engine looks great. Is it a stroked 428?
My only comment would be regarding the clutch bell-housing. I would strongly advise you to consider a scattershield of one kind or another. You have a big powerful engine, capable of generating huge loads and it is not unheard of for clutches or even flywheels to let go; and when they do go, they go is spectacular and dramatic fashion. Now consider that your ankles are level with the flywheel and it doesn't take much imagination to picture the possibilities. A cast bellhousing like the one you have will offer little if any resistance to an exploding flywheel assembly. A steel rather than cast flywheel will reduce the risk, but you still have the clutch to consider.

My remote oil filter adapter plate is different to your. If you can measure the distance between the centres of the outlets, I'll go and measure mine to see if there is any difference and if there is, you can have mine if you want it.

Regards,
Paul

Didn't think they ever made a cross-bolted 428.
Mike

FatBoy
22-02-09, 11:45 AM
To be honest, I didn't look at the cross-bolts, it was the press-in core plugs that I noticed. :confused: But you are right.

Neil O
22-02-09, 07:35 PM
Paul, my dipstick is just above the oil take off plate/block.
I too have taped over my oil cooler.

Ian, I got my take off plate/block from SA. Just give them a call and they'll send one over. Mine was free.
It has a hole facing forward and one facing outwards. Talk to Lyle if Bill isn't there.

Hang on for a bit before you make a sump guard. I'm in the middle of the process myself. I have a lightweight pattern already to fine tune, then I'll get the pucker one made.
I'll post some pics when it's all done, but maybe I can get a price for the guy making up two or three. I could always just send the pattern on to anyone who wants it.
I'm going for a long guard, from the front cross member to just past the bellhousing lip. I have found that when you get the front wheels over a speed hump, the sump and/or the bellhousing lip are the things that take the hit. I also have to drive along roads with deep grass in the middle to get to my house and stones are hiding in there quite often.:(

Ian 46
22-02-09, 09:44 PM
Hi Paul,
Again thanks for the info.
My engine isn't a 428. It's what SA call their 406 Super FE which is based on the 390 FE Big Block bored and stroked to 452ci, containing a 4.250" Scat crank, Eagle H beam competition rods, Keith Black pistons, Elgin high performance cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with custom CNC porting and polishing matched to an Edelbrock Performer RPM ali inlet manifold, with a Holley 750 cfm double pumper on top. The main cross bolt conversion is not functional.

The flywheel is ali and coupled with a RAM 11" dia high performance driven plate housed in the factory original Ford bellhousing, although I don't know how you can tell that from the photos.

Ian

FatBoy
22-02-09, 10:44 PM
It did cross my mind that maybe the cross bolts were cosmetic, because I've been trying to think of an FE block with cross-bolted mains, but also with press-in core plugs. ;)

The bellhousing is obviously a cast item, whereas the scattershields are generally steel. I have a Lakewood (http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/ProductDetails.aspx?modelNumber=15210&productID=1969&majID=152&minID=1521&selection=0&minselection=0) on mine, but I believe the Quicktime (http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#ford) products are also popular.

Here's a link to some pictures that may give you something to think about. :rolleyes:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80533

Regards,
Paul

wilf
23-02-09, 10:39 AM
If you are drag racing or otherwise competing, an "explosion proof" scatter shield is a must. And mandated by the certifying authorities.

Not too sure about the need for them for street use. Especially when a new billet flywheel is used.

Can anyone name one person who has had a flywheel explosion on a street car?

Ian 46
23-02-09, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the link Paul. I might have to rethink this bearing in mind Wilf's comments too.

Ian

FatBoy
23-02-09, 10:09 PM
If you are drag racing or otherwise competing, an "explosion proof" scatter shield is a must. And mandated by the certifying authorities.

Not too sure about the need for them for street use. Especially when a new billet flywheel is used.

Can anyone name one person who has had a flywheel explosion on a street car?

It only takes one Wilf. I like my feet just where they are, on the ends of my legs.
I value my legs far, far more than the price of a Lakewood.

Paul

dingocooke
23-02-09, 10:17 PM
Plus it really does depends on the car its fitted too; I consider the cast ally bellhousing would be trashed if my 351C flywheel let go, and the flywheel fragments would still have a fair bit of energy as they escaped the bellhousing, but I also think the thick steel footboxes of a Crendon would stop them; in fact theres more steel (and heavier guage too) protecting your legs in a crendon than on a boss mustang.

FatBoy
23-02-09, 10:55 PM
That may or may not be the case Steve, but looking at the way one of the fragments sliced through the main chassis rail in the link I posted, that isn't a gamble I would want to take....would you? ;)

Paul

dingocooke
23-02-09, 11:01 PM
That may or may not be the case Steve, but looking at the way one of the fragments sliced through the main chassis rail in the link I posted, that isn't a gamble I would want to take....would you? ;)

Paul

I can see what youre saying there, and its a pretty scary picture...but a cast iron flywheel and 8000rpm (maybe there was some maybe 2000rpm exageration there?) is pretty silly, if you have a proper billet steel flywheel I think you have sufficient street insurance??

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/6775/780036qs9dp4.jpg

wilf
24-02-09, 07:58 AM
If you read past the pictures on that CC thread, that is exactly what the other commentators said...........I can't blame or criticise Paul for wanting that bit of extra insurance for his tootsies, but it is a bit like insuring a 100k house for 200k - not really going to make much difference in real life.

But as we always say - its his car. :D

However - one thing is worth saying here - NEVER REUSE AN OLD CAST FLYWHEEL!

FatBoy
24-02-09, 08:46 AM
It's a similar story with the prop-shaft safety loop. I've never heard of a prop-shaft coming apart on a Cobra, but I don't want to be the one you hear about. ;)
The thought of an unrestrained prop-shaft spinning at up to 6,000rpm right next to my right thigh would make me very nervous.
I thoroughly enjoy driving my Cob and I don't really want to have that experience tempered by constant concerns about a mulitude of "what ifs".
There will always be some that you can't do much about, mostly concerning other road users. :rolleyes:

Paul

wilf
24-02-09, 08:50 AM
Funny that - I DO know about some propshafts getting loose, and yes I DO have a substantial hoop to minimise damage should it happen to me.

As you say - Probably still more likely to get sideswiped by some silly basturd on a mobile 'phone tho'. :(

jgfabs
24-02-09, 09:43 AM
It's a similar story with the prop-shaft safety loop. I've never heard of a prop-shaft coming apart on a Cobra, but I don't want to be the one you hear about. ;)
The thought of an unrestrained prop-shaft spinning at up to 6,000rpm right next to my right thigh would make me very nervous.
I thoroughly enjoy driving my Cob and I don't really want to have that experience tempered by constant concerns about a mulitude of "what ifs".
There will always be some that you can't do much about, mostly concerning other road users. :rolleyes:

Paul
Bit like buying a fire extinguisher.If you don't get to use it-..it's a bonus!!!