PDA

View Full Version : myford super 7



andy l
24-04-09, 09:33 PM
After info on myford super 7,eg weight with stand, how hard to handle, and sizes, can it be unbolted, many thanks, Andy

craggle
24-04-09, 09:45 PM
Just got one myself.

Nice little machine if you can get them for a good price. Make sure they have not been neglected too much and check the bed as they aren't hardened and do get scratched easily.
Lead screws tend to wear out as well.

All parts are still available though as they are still being made. Myford Lathes, Milling Machines and Grinders - Myford is celebrating 74 years in the Machine Tool Industry (http://www.myford.com/)

Lathe does unbolt from the stand too but will take two or 3 people to lift it off. Easier if you have an engine crane.

Take a look at this web page as there is a link to a PDF of the original manual. The specifications and weights are somewhere about page 3 or 4.
Engineering (http://www.pilotltd.net/engineering.htm)

Craig.

andy l
24-04-09, 09:55 PM
Just got one myself.

Nice little machine if you can get them for a good price. Make sure they have not been neglected too much and check the bed as they aren't hardened and do get scratched easily.
Lead screws tend to wear out as well.

All parts are still available though as they are still being made. Myford Lathes, Milling Machines and Grinders - Myford is celebrating 74 years in the Machine Tool Industry (http://www.myford.com/)

Lathe does unbolt from the stand too but will take two or 3 people to lift it off. Easier if you have an engine crane.

Take a look at this web page as there is a link to a PDF of the original manual. The specifications and weights are somewhere about page 3 or 4.
Engineering (http://www.pilotltd.net/engineering.htm)

Craig.

Thanks Craig, just got one off ebay, just got to pick it up now, should be fun, Andy ;)

craggle
24-04-09, 10:03 PM
Excellent. I found my one about 1/2 a mile from my house! Guy had it stored for 3 years and just wanted it out the way. I removed it for 200 !:mrgreen:

It needs a good clean up and a re-paint but it's in good shape and just needs a new set of belts and a lead screw. I'm in the middle of sorting out my garage to make room for it at the moment.

Sure it will come in handy in the future for little jobs on the car and now I can make my own Van De Graff generator and a pulse jet engine!:mrgreen:

If your ebay name is similar to a certain lemans racing cobra coupe then I have found it. Looks in bloody good shape and lots of spares and accessories too. Good buy.:mrgreen:

Craig.

andy l
24-04-09, 10:19 PM
Excellent. I found my one about 1/2 a mile from my house! Guy had it stored for 3 years and just wanted it out the way. I removed it for 200 !:mrgreen:

It needs a good clean up and a re-paint but it's in good shape and just needs a new set of belts and a lead screw. I'm in the middle of sorting out my garage to make room for it at the moment.

Sure it will come in handy in the future for little jobs on the car and now I can make my own Van De Graff generator and a pulse jet engine!:mrgreen:

If your ebay name is similar to a certain lemans racing cobra coupe then I have found it. Looks in bloody good shape and lots of spares and accessories too. Good buy.:mrgreen:

Craig.

That will be the one, good price on yours, been trying for sometime, they been going for well over 1000/1600, paid 950 in the end, with lots of bits, looked through the manual its about 166kgs with stand, lathes 112kg, not to bad, not to sure if it will fit in the back of my double cab pickup, hope so, all the best, Andy

craggle
24-04-09, 10:31 PM
Mine came home in the back of a Mitsubishi L200 double cab so you should be fine.
I have the industrial stand that is slightly bigger too but even that fitted fine.

Take a sheet if it looks like rain. It will rust quickly if it gets wet!

Craig.

andy l
24-04-09, 10:40 PM
Mine came home in the back of a Mitsubishi L200 double cab so you should be fine.
I have the industrial stand that is slightly bigger too but even that fitted fine.

Take a sheet if it looks like rain. It will rust quickly if it gets wet!

Craig.

Do you think it Will fit if a cab is fitted on the back, Andy

383 stroker
24-04-09, 10:46 PM
Hi Andy,

Ring Myford and give them the serial No. and check to see if the clutch,motor and head bearings are still available. Alternative motors are available but clutches and bearings are becoming difficult. oh and welcome to the Myford clan (make sure you get the handbooks/partslist/xploded drg. if not i will copy mine 4u). Enjoy making Craigs stalks as your first project:D.

andy l
24-04-09, 10:57 PM
Hi Andy,

Ring Myford and give them the serial No. and check to see if the clutch,motor and head bearings are still available. Alternative motors are available but clutches and bearings are becoming difficult. oh and welcome to the Myford clan (make sure you get the handbooks/partslist/xploded drg. if not i will copy mine 4u). Enjoy making Craigs stalks as your first project:D.

Hi Andy, thanks, iam sure there are manuals with it, if not will give you a shout, Andy

dingocooke
24-04-09, 11:51 PM
i took my trusty ML7 (like a super 7 but without the gearbox) off the myford stand and got both lathe and stand in the back of a BL mini after removing the passenger seat and rear seat cushion, Im no strong man and I managed the whole job on my own.
Im probably myfords nearest user as Im about a 4 minute walk from their factory!! As much as I love my old myford, a Colchester student or bantam is a much better buy!!

Still a very useful piece of kit

Robin427
02-05-09, 10:36 PM
Jeffing heavy, but fitted in the boot of my BMW 5-series. I bought a Boxford stand on eBay for next to nothing (the Myford ones are lighter and way more expensive).

Craig - splash out and go for the segmented belt - otherwise you have to dismantle the whole damn thing to change it.

Great little lathe, but tend to be highly priced. Good range of after market accessories available, though

I use indexable tipped tools on mine, I think that means I'm not a proper engineer but I'll live with that

nikbj68
03-05-09, 10:10 PM
...I use indexable tipped tools on mine, I think that means I'm not a proper engineer but I'll live with that

Contract Toolmaker!;)


Gonna have a complete toolroom going begging come September when we`re all made redundant...send me your shopping lists for the 'blind' auction!

craggle
03-05-09, 10:27 PM
Nothing wrong with tip tooling. That's the way I'm going once I get the lathe up and running.

Stripped it down today to get the old belts out and start cleaning it up a bit. Bearings and gears all look very good so hopefully just a damn good clean, repaint, new belts and a new lead screw will see it fit for many years to come.

Where do you get segmented belts from Robin?

Craig.

Robin427
03-05-09, 10:52 PM
I either got mine from Chronos or RDG Tools, seeing as you have stripped yours down, you might not want to bother as it was about 16.

Tipped tooling doesn't like non-continuous cuts (the term has temporarily escaped me) - it shatters quite easily but apparently it is better at higher temperature.

I use soluble cutting oil too, helps to have a decent drip tray as it gets quite messy

slogger
03-05-09, 10:56 PM
I either got mine from Chronos or RDG Tools, seeing as you have stripped yours down, you might not want to bother as it was about 16.

Tipped tooling doesn't like non-continuous cuts (the term has temporarily escaped me) - it shatters quite easily but apparently it is better at higher temperature.

I use soluble cutting oil too, helps to have a decent drip tray as it gets quite messy


.......................still in the lounge Robin?:D

craggle
03-05-09, 11:05 PM
Didn't know you had one Robin.

Mine is a super 7 on the industrial stand so it comes with the nice big drip tray. No coolant system fitted to it unfortunately, Not yet anyway.

To be honest I stripped it down in order to clean it a bit. It's not too bad but you know how much I like cleaning and polishing things!:mrgreen:
Thinking of breaking the spray gun out now to give it a fresh coat of paint.

Might stick a standard belt back on it as it's in bits and try a segmented one if it ever needs replacing again.

I used to use tip tooling all the time on the CNC lathes and mills but we used to do some heavy cuts and drown it in coolant. I will get some for the Myford but I have a fair selection of HSS bits if needed. I also want to get a quick change tool post for it.

Craig.

Robin427
12-05-09, 04:33 PM
I've had a Myford (in the garage for 18 months now, Ian!) for a while, the Boxford stand has an integral drip tray but I haven't rigged up a cooland system yet - just use a paintbrush if using oil or a washing-up liquid bottle if using soluble coolant

craggle
18-05-09, 09:23 AM
Restoration of the lathe is coming along nicely now.
New belts have been purchased along with a quick change toolpost and a set of carbide tip tools.
Paint finish is going on nicely too seeing as it's all brushed.
Once it's finished I'll give it a coat of polish and then think of something to make. Be a shame to make it dirty though! :mrgreen:

Some before and after pictures below

Craig.

Geezer
18-05-09, 11:08 AM
Restoration of the lathe is coming along nicely now.
New belts have been purchased along with a quick change toolpost and a set of carbide tip tools.
Paint finish is going on nicely too seeing as it's all brushed.
Once it's finished I'll give it a coat of polish and then think of something to make. Be a shame to make it dirty though! :mrgreen:

Some before and after pictures below

Craig.

Super job Craig. That's bordering on machinist's porn... :mrgreen::D

Pete

Robin427
18-05-09, 06:02 PM
Craig,

I wish I had your talent in making things look nice - lathe looks superb. All I've made on mine is a couple of coffee tampers, a gearstick, 2 pump adaptors and a lot of mixed swarf...

andy l
18-05-09, 09:08 PM
Hi Craig

lathes looking better with a lick of paint, did you use myford paint, and any primer, Andy

craggle
18-05-09, 09:41 PM
No, Myford paint was a bit expensive for my liking.

Everything has been stripped back to bare castings using a wire brush in an angle grinder.

I went to my local agricultural dealers (oakes brothers (http://www.oakesbros.co.uk/Farmpower/index.htm)) and bought a litre of Massey Ferguson Stoneleigh Grey. I then mixed this with a little bit of Ford tractor blue that I had left over from a previous painting job and it made a pretty close match to the original Myford colour. Paint is made by New Holland and is called Q-Coat.
I used grey primer made by the same people. This was mixed with a little bit of black to make the primer a fairly close match to the finish grey coat.

As I already had the grey primer, gloss black and Ford blue it worked out at only 12 for a tin of paint. Myford paint is about 15 for a quarter litre!

Craig.

Steve
18-05-09, 09:51 PM
I have been offered a BOXFORD Screw Cutting Lathe for 200......how would this compare to a myford etc??

craggle
18-05-09, 10:03 PM
Hi Steve

Not sure really without knowing what model it is. Boxfords are a quality machine though so if it's not completely worn out from use it should be quite good.

It's probably more of an industrial machine so more likely to be well used and could be 3 phase electrics too. See if you can get a look at it and just check it all over for play in slides and bearings. If you can get a model number or a picture that would help.

This web page has some info on the Boxfords. lathes.co.uk (http://www.lathes.co.uk/)

For only 200 though it's probably a good buy.

Craig.

craggle
28-05-09, 09:56 PM
Got my lathe all back together now.

Only thing that lets it down a touch is the front panel contains a on and an off switch and a reversing switch.
This seems to be all setup for 3 phase electrics and the previous owner wired it up to use the reversing switch as a simple on-off switch in one direction only. I tried to wire up the big relay operated circuit breaker inside but with only one phase conected it just hummed rather than clunked into place.

Anyone out there know anything about electrics? It is a 240V motor too so a 3 phase inverter wouldn't help, I don't think so anyway.

Craig.

nikbj68
28-05-09, 10:07 PM
If you can send me (PM) a couple of pics of the wiring, I`ll see if I can figure it out.
Nik.

Purple AK
28-05-09, 10:08 PM
Craig your talents are wasted here! You should be restoring Steam Engines.AFAIK you can't get a single phase motor to run in reverse (someone may correct me) A 3 phase motor will reverse simply by swopping 2 of the phases.

Clarkson
28-05-09, 10:16 PM
Craig your talents are wasted here! You should be restoring Steam Engines.AFAIK you can't get a single phase motor to run in reverse (someone may correct me) A 3 phase motor will reverse simply by swopping 2 of the phases.


Chris, You wanna see his tractor!!:shock::shock::cool:

craggle
28-05-09, 10:17 PM
Well, there's the problem really, There dosen't seem to be any wiring diagrams available and when I contacted Myford they said it was now obsolete and should be replaced with a new, sealed emergency stop unit and reversing switch for only 130.

I have some pictures of the unit below. The on and off switch is a momentary contact switch which I guess operates a solenoid type device that brings all 3 contact breakers together. Presumably the off switch operates the solenid type device in reverse or just breaks the circuit.

All I found in the Myford manual was that the supply should be connected to terminal L1 and L3. I did this but just got a buzzing when pressing the on switch, No smoke or smell, just buzzing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Craig.

craggle
28-05-09, 10:21 PM
Hi Chris, Was thinking of making a steam engine now I have a lathe....... Might need a mill too.

I think you can reverse the motor somehow because I originally had it running the wrong way. There is 4 wires going to the motor and the motor has a big starter capacitor thing on the side. When it spun the wrong way the manual simply said reverse the two red wires, Brown in my case as I rewired it but this did make it spin the opposite way.

Do you want to see the tractor? :rolleyes:

Craig.

Purple AK
28-05-09, 10:33 PM
I stand corrected! Sorry Smilies are off limits again tonight!! (not the sites fault I hasten to add) You have a 3 phase contactor in there so my guess is a previous owner has converted it to single phase (wrongly)
Ok Show us your tractor :)

craggle
28-05-09, 10:42 PM
Yeah, That was my guess too. It would be nice to get it working or replace it with a single phase contact unit as at the moment the emergency stop dosen't work so you have to grope around for the reversing switch if you want to stop it.

Another thing was you can see the coil inside the contactor and it has a label saying 415V on it.

Don't mind buying bits for it though if they are needed to get it working properly.

There is also a hole in the panel for a switch to operate the coolant pump. I wanted to get a rotary switch to fit in this hole and run the lamp from it but can I find a rotary switch capable of switching 240V,

Craig.

craggle
28-05-09, 10:49 PM
Ok Show us your tractor :)

Right oh......

Purple AK
28-05-09, 10:53 PM
Could be the contactor won't switch with 240v (hence the hum) They are pretty sensitive! When our brake tester got swamped in 12 foot of water in the 2000 Lewes Floods! It took several shots of switch cleaner and WD40 to get the contactors snapping in properly without buzzing! A rotary Dimmer switch?

Purple AK
28-05-09, 11:02 PM
Right oh......

No Badges?

craggle
28-05-09, 11:06 PM
That's what I feared, The coil is 415V so not enough in a single phase to operate it.

Just had a look at RS though and they sell 240V contactors which could work, Not sure what amperage rating I would need though? Higher the better I guess .

Hadn't thought of a dimmer switch actually, I was thinking along the lines of the reversing switch which is a simple on off switch at the moment with a 90° rotation between on and off. Dimmer switch is an option though.

Cheers

Craig.

craggle
28-05-09, 11:08 PM
No Badges?

Those pictures were taken just after the rebuild and we didn't have the badges on there at the time. They were all missing when we got it so had to buy new reproduction badges at great expense.
We now have the International and McCormick badge down both sides of the bonnet and the IH badge at the top of the grill.

Haven't got any pictures with the badges on yet though.


Craig.

Purple AK
28-05-09, 11:15 PM
Those pictures were taken just after the rebuild and we didn't have the badges on there at the time. They were all missing when we got it so had to buy new reproduction badges at great expense.
We now have the International and McCormick badge down both sides of the bonnet and the IH badge at the top of the grill.

Haven't got any pictures with the badges on yet though.


Craig.

Only a thought because we are always on farms where we see all sorts of abandoned relics ferreted away in bramble patches ;)

Robin427
29-05-09, 09:55 AM
Craig,

I bought a "no volt release" switch off eBay for about £20, new, cheaper than buying one from Myford!

Wish I could get my motor to reverse - useful for threadcutting as mine didn't come with a thread dial indicator (although not sure how useful they are for odd threads), mine came with a reversing switch but think I need to rewire inside the motor casing

nikbj68
29-05-09, 02:33 PM
OK. So. It runs, and can run backwards. What are the motor wires connected to at the moment?
Connecting live to L1 & Neutral to L3 won`t operate the contactor, as the contactor is energised and 'held on' by the connections on the right-hand side, where the red cut-out/reset button is.
The 415v is most likely the switching voltage, the coil should run off 1 phase & N (240v)

L1, L2 & L3 should be the 3 phases going in, which put power to the 3 motor phases when energised, but only if you have a 3 phase motor.

If by switching wires, the motor will reverse, there is a way of setting this up, utilising the reversing switch, but not via correspondance!
Fr speed control, under no circumstances use a dimmer switch! :shock:

Maplin (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2417) have rotary switches, >300v, 5amp, which would do your lamp, and could probably do Off/Lamp/Lamp & Oil/ Oil/Off, depending on the power of the pump.
http://images.maplin.co.uk/300/ff73q.jpg

Pity I`m so far away, I`d love to have a go at it!
You really need to get a sparky on it though, you were lucky nothing went bang! :shock: :lol: :shock:

nikbj68
29-05-09, 02:44 PM
Ooops, just re-read posts & looked closer at the pics.
Replace where I said
"Connecting live to L1 & Neutral to L3 won`t operate the contactor, as the contactor is energised and 'held on' by the connections on the right-hand side, where the red cut-out/reset button is.
The 415v is most likely the switching voltage, the coil should run off 1 phase & N (240v)"

With "Putting Live to L1 & N to L3 won`t energise the contactor, but if the motor had been connected, would have gone bang"
This is why you need someone to get hands-on with it!;-)

craggle
29-05-09, 02:49 PM
Cheers

I did have the motor disconnected through all this as I don't mind blowing the contactors too much but wouldn't want to damage the motor.

There are links from the L1 and L3 position to smaller terminals in between the main connections. I figured these are what go to the coil? Maybe not.

I wish you were closer too as you would be most welcome to come and have a look!
I do know a local electrician but he mainly wires houses, not sure if he knows his 3 phase stuff too well.

Thanks

Craig.

nikbj68
29-05-09, 03:02 PM
Cheers ...There are links from the L1 and L3 position to smaller terminals in between the main connections. I figured these are what go to the coil? ...I do know a local electrician but he mainly wires houses, not sure if he knows his 3 phase stuff too well.
Thanks
Craig.

Yeah, I realised that, (could just about make out on my terrible work monitor, it`s not the pics!) hence the errata statement!
How is the motor currently wired up? Does it run correctly?
Any qualified Lecky should have covered 3-phase at some point...it will be a nice 'refresher' for him! :lol:

craggle
29-05-09, 03:08 PM
The motor is currently wired through the rotary reversing switch only. Someone has bypassed the on and off switch and all the contactor box and connected straight to the rotary switch.
Currently the rotary switch does nothing but on and off by turning it 90. It does not reverse either.

All I have done really is copy the wiring that was there when I got it.

Craig.

nikbj68
29-05-09, 03:30 PM
Sorry to go on, but:

There are 4 wires coming out of the motor, is this right?

1 goes to one side of the capacitor, (a)
1 goes to the capacitor/Live, (b)
1 goes to N
1 goes to earth.

Swapping (a) & (b) changes direction of rotation?

Where does the reversing switch link in, and does it have more than one position?

Is it single pole, or does it disconnect L & N?

Aaargh, Somebody stop me!

craggle
29-05-09, 03:44 PM
Right, I may have to post again when I get back home.

There are 4 wires to the motor. They are labeled Z1, Z2, A1 and A2. Swapping Z1 and Z2 around reverses rotation. These are both brown wires.
I know one goes direct to the capacitor and the others go into the windings in the outer case. Can't quite remember what goes where without looking.

The reversing switch clunks into place every 90 so you can rotate it completely but there are 4 positions to the switch.

I will take a look later to see if I can make a diagram and figure out what goes where.

Cheers for the help

Craig.

383 stroker
29-05-09, 05:00 PM
I'll try and take some photos tomorrow for you how i wired mine about 15 years ago. If you are still stuck on sunday i will be at Bisley sunday and can take a look if you want.

nikbj68
29-05-09, 05:11 PM
Right...I will take a look later to see if I can make a diagram and figure out what goes where.
Cheers for the help Craig.

Ok, I`m out on this because I don`t want to mis-advise from a distance and there be any risk of injury or damage, but good luck on getting it sorted! :D

craggle
29-05-09, 07:00 PM
Appreciate your help Nik

Just to let you know though, I have just dismantled the contactor and it is a rather simple thing really. The coil inside it is connected to the L1 and L3 terminal. The printing on the side of the coil itself states 400-450V AC.

I cleaned the contacts, Made sure it all moved easily and tried the positive on L1 and the negative on L3. It made the same humming sound when pressing the on button and when I manually pushed the contacts into place they did stay there until the stop button was pressed but they stayed there with another loud humming sound.

Not too clued up on electrics (as you probably guessed!) but is it possible to get more than 240V on two wires by using the 3 phase supply?

I looked at RS earlier and there is an option on their contactors of either 240V or 415V coils.

Cheers

Craig.

nikbj68
29-05-09, 07:31 PM
PLEASE don`t do that again! :shock: You`re scaring me!

3 phase is simply 3 live circuits, just the frequencies are out of sync (think of the firing sequence on a 3 cyl engine) so combining 2 gives 415-440v.
So without a 3-phase supply coming in to the building, you need a 240v contactor.
240V isn`t enough to pull a 415v contactor closed, but it is enough to hold it there when manually operated.

It would be ideal to get a complete control box with E-stop & reverse, but 130 is a bit rich!

craggle
29-05-09, 08:24 PM
No, I've screwed the cover back on now and won't touch it again!:p

I see what you mean now about the 2 phases so I will try to get a 240V contactor or just replace it all with a new on and off switch unit.
Must be a simple thing to get so I probably don't need to go through Myfords to get one.

I'll let you know what I end up with,

Cheers

Craig.

Clarkson
29-05-09, 08:45 PM
I think this thread has gone on for long enough, off topic time me thinks!

Purple AK
29-05-09, 08:49 PM
I think this thread has gone on for long enough, off topic time me thinks!
Come On! We've covered Steam Engines and Tractors! How much further off topic can we go? :rolleyes: :D

Clarkson
29-05-09, 09:07 PM
Come On! We've covered Steam Engines and Tractors! How much further off topic can we go? :rolleyes: :D


HAHAHA, I did try!:rolleyes:

Next,what polish did you use on your lathe Craig??:rolleyes:

Geezer
29-05-09, 11:00 PM
HAHAHA, I did try!:rolleyes:

Next,what polish did you use on your lathe Craig??:rolleyes:

All of it...:shock:

Pete

383 stroker
30-05-09, 09:07 PM
Well had a look at the lathe and well.. 15 years is a long time to forget what you've done! No guts left as i rewired it together with a non standard motor. Not sure any photos would help although the wiring is fairly basic to follow and no reverse wired in (never needed it as i've not used it for screw cutting, had access to a colchester student for that ).

As far as using a local sparky to sort it i would ask when he last did any 3ph work as 99% of domestic sparkies havn't touched it since they left college. A controls or commercial/industrial sparky would certainly have no probs in sorting it in about 5-20 minutes (subject to any parts avalability) .

Ok guys back off topic now.

nikbj68
31-05-09, 02:12 PM
You certainly don`t need to go through Myford for the parts required, all that`s really needed is to have a decent on/off E-stop control, and possibly run the motor through the reversing switch, fi you think you might ever use reverse!
As Mr.Stroker points out, a domestic sparky may have forgotten 3-ph, but as this is 240v single stuff, not a problem. :D