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alastaid
24-12-09, 05:00 PM
Mine has started to pressurise the cooling system badly to the point it is knackered. We all know the cause, I need a block that works, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, but I don't think I have much chance.

Cheers

Alastair

Sidecarbod
24-12-09, 05:18 PM
Mine has started to pressurise the cooling system badly to the point it is knackered. We all know the cause, I need a block that works, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, but I don't think I have much chance.

Cheers

Alastair

Sorry to hear your bad news, you could try one of the products that are supposed to magically fix leaks. Some may consider this to be a bit bodgy! (I'll keep my opinion on this to myself for a change! :p )

The other fix is top hat liners, you are looking at a grand to do that and you will have to strip the engine totally. On the plus side, your engine will not ever leak again!

You can buy a second hand block for less but there is an obvious risk in that approach.

Sidecarbod
24-12-09, 05:25 PM
You could be mega lucky and it's just a blown head gasket but I doubt it because the only place that water passes from the block to the head is right at the back of each bank of cylinders near number 7 and 8 cylinders.

craggle
24-12-09, 06:12 PM
What happened? These blocks don't just start leaking without a very good reason. Did it overheat? What are the symptoms you are seeing?

If you really have got a problem then save yourself the cost of a new block and buy one of these (http://www.kalimex.co.uk/section.html?secpath=01.03.&pgid=2) and one of these (http://www.kalimex.co.uk/section.html?secpath=01.04.&pgid=17).
Use the Seal-up first and follow the instruction to the letter. Drain the block of water and flush it out, fill with plain water and the seal-up, run up to temp and preferably a bit longer, drain the water and flush, drain the water again and I mean drain all of it, Remove the block drain plugs too.
Leave for a day or three to dry then refill with water and antifreeze and add the K-seal.

I guarantee you will not loose any water again.

I used it in a 4.2 Range Rover that had a water pump fail, overheat and it started using about a pint of water each week. After this treatment I never even topped it up in the 3 years and 20K odd miles I kept it afterwards.

Craig.

alastaid
28-12-09, 06:22 PM
Guys,

Thanks for the replies, the history is that I bought the block off ebay 5 yrs ago, it blew the top hose after a few miles of rebuild and I knew I was in trouble. Then had it confirmed by having that tester that checks for exhaust gases in the coolant, which I did.

So I decided to try the Moroso Ceramic Engine sealer, which to be fair lasted 5 yrs and about 5000 miles, many of them track miles. But the last weekend to Le Mans seems to have made it worse than ever. It is so bad now that it is also pressurising the crank case and then blowing back through the carb via the breather tubes to the point that it mis fires on acceleration.

Maybe I should just go for some more Moroso then.

Cheers

Alastair

HiPo
28-12-09, 07:06 PM
Hi If the above does not work.
I have a rebuilt 3.5 SD1 complete motor for sale, was dyno'd at 197bhp, then I had it rebored and fitted new 9.75:1 pistons and it is now on an engine stand, all fresh ready to go.
Lots of other tasty bits inside.
Should go well over 200bhp now - as good as and better than any 4.0
PM me for details

craggle
28-12-09, 07:16 PM
If you are getting crankcase pressure as well that sounds like a head gasket issue?

It may be worth pulling the heads off and having a look around in there. Are you using SD1 heads or the Range Rover 4.6 heads?
If you have the 4.6 heads use the composite gaskets and don't use the proper Range Rover stretch bolts, Spend the cash and get head studs.

Follow up with the Calimex ceramic sealer I posted earlier, I know it works wonders but I have never tried the Morosso version.

Craig.

Sidecarbod
28-12-09, 07:30 PM
I also think that the head gasket will have blown, this causes the combustion gases to blow into the valley area.

You might not like this but the gasket could have blown because a liner has dropped, what happens then is that the fire ring is just floating about in the air, without this seal the gases will get to the composite part of the head gasket and burn the crap out of it.

The max PSI as the mixture is burnt is over 1000 PSI, personally I would not trust a magic potion to fix this. ;)

Your block needs pressure testing and then fixing or replacing if the test shows up a problem, your heads may need a light skim and if it was my lump I'd bolt it back together with ARP studs. AJMHO!

Happy Jim
28-12-09, 08:00 PM
about 5000 miles, many of them track miles.
Alastair

Hooligan :D

Good to hear it's still being used, don't know of any but will keep my ears open.

Rgds

Jim

alastaid
29-12-09, 08:53 AM
Hmmmm, hadn't thought about the head gasket route :-(, they are 4.6 heads, and I didn't use ARP studs, just the standard bolts. Bloomin thing, just really a) don't have the time to reuild the engine at the moment, and b) am very reluctant to throw money at what not be a relaible fix. So is the only totally safe, never have a problem again (I know there isn't such a thing but you know what I mean), a new Coscast block, of which I will have to buy new pistons as well, so looking at 2K before I have blinked.

Cheers

Alastair

Sidecarbod
29-12-09, 09:17 AM
Hmmmm, hadn't thought about the head gasket route :-(, they are 4.6 heads, and I didn't use ARP studs, just the standard bolts. Bloomin thing, just really a) don't have the time to reuild the engine at the moment, and b) am very reluctant to throw money at what not be a relaible fix. So is the only totally safe, never have a problem again (I know there isn't such a thing but you know what I mean), a new Coscast block, of which I will have to buy new pistons as well, so looking at 2K before I have blinked.

Cheers

Alastair

Top hat liners is a reliable fix and I guess that you can use the old pistons with new rings. Even if you go for new pistons as well it should cost less than a cosi block.

It is a shed load of work, whatever method you go for (Apart from the potion in the coolant) so I feel for you in that respect.

You could speak to V8 Deveolpments, they might do an exchange service or something like that.

Pete

Purple AK
29-12-09, 09:23 AM
Still some bargains to be had at Rimmer Bros. All of your LongEngineSale products at Rimmer Bros (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemSearch--search-LongEngineSale--srcin-1) I know it's a lot to lay out, but at least it's a surefire fix. ;)

Sidecarbod
29-12-09, 09:40 AM
My last post may have come across as doom and gloom, really should should take the heads off first and take it come there. You never know it might not be that bad! :p

craggle
29-12-09, 09:56 AM
If the Morosso block sealer had failed it is possible that the water system got pressurised and when the engine was stopped the cylinder may have got some coolant inside it.
If you were unlucky enough for this to happen when the piston was on it's compression stroke, trying to start the engine again meant the water couldn't go anywhere and it may have simply pushed passed the gasket and into the crank case.

Personally I would spend the 30 on the Kalimex ceramic sealer's, 30 on a pair of gaskets and rebuild it.
A cheaper alternative to the head studs is to use SD1 head bolts and do them up to the SD1 torque settings. The stretch bolts for the 4.0 and 4.6 engines are just not very nice to use. You only need the inner SD1 head bolts, There is no outer row of bolts on the later blocks.

Craig.

alastaid
30-12-09, 10:07 AM
Chris,

Many thanks for that link, deal is done, got the last one out of Rimmers, fully built, gauranteed for a year, all I have to do is take my ancilliaries off, and plop it in. Guy on the phone couldn't believe the deal, and the fact there was no surcharge on the engine, so I can sell the crank and heads to get some money back.

All that leaves is to make a coffee table out of the block a-la Top Gear :-)

Cheers and Happy New Year to all, and thanks for your comments/help.

Alastair

Sidecarbod
30-12-09, 10:10 AM
Chris,

Many thanks for that link, deal is done, got the last one out of Rimmers, fully built, gauranteed for a year, all I have to do is take my ancilliaries off, and plop it in. Guy on the phone couldn't believe the deal, and the fact there was no surcharge on the engine, so I can sell the crank and heads to get some money back.

All that leaves is to make a coffee table out of the block a-la Top Gear :-)

Cheers and Happy New Year to all, and thanks for your comments/help.

Alastair

Bloody hell, when you make your mind up you don't hang about! ;)

Well done on getting the engine.

BTW does the new block have an engine number stamped on it?

Sidecarbod
30-12-09, 10:12 AM
I reckon that someone will buy your duff block from you along with the crank and pistons, I guess you have a spare pair of heads too!

Purple AK
30-12-09, 05:24 PM
Chris,

Many thanks for that link, deal is done, got the last one out of Rimmers, fully built, gauranteed for a year, all I have to do is take my ancilliaries off, and plop it in. Guy on the phone couldn't believe the deal, and the fact there was no surcharge on the engine, so I can sell the crank and heads to get some money back.

All that leaves is to make a coffee table out of the block a-la Top Gear :-)

Cheers and Happy New Year to all, and thanks for your comments/help.

Alastair No Worries Alastair thats what this place is about ;) Actually it's Pete you should be thanking, as he posted the link a few weeks ago. I just remembered it :D Glad you're sorted ;)

Sidecarbod
30-12-09, 05:28 PM
No Worries Alastair thats what this place is about ;) Actually it's Pete you should be thanking, as he posted the link a few weeks ago. I just remembered it :D Glad you're sorted ;)


"Pete" as in me? :confused:

Purple AK
30-12-09, 05:43 PM
"Pete" as in me? :confused: I thought so! Maybe my memory is fading after all :(

Purple AK
30-12-09, 05:46 PM
I thought so! Maybe my memory is fading after all :( Sorry it was Andy Soar (dinosoar) ;)