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davidlatimer
21-03-10, 01:35 AM
I want to install an air bleeding point for my cooling system in the sumo, Im confused after reading the forums where is the best place to put it.
top hose (thermostat to rad) CBS do an inline housing to accomodate a m10 bleed screw, or ive also been told that the best place for a bleed point is the hose going to the heater, this is I think is 5/8 and i cant find anything anywhere that connects inline to 5/8 to install bleed point.
Anyone clear this up?
Is everyone in agreement that a restictor is required on the hose from top of rad to top of expansion tank?
Do you fully close the restrictor or leave open slightly?
Whats the best way to fill the system once a bleed valve and restrictor is added?
I have replaced the thermostat to a higher value and replaced the fan switch to higher than pilgrim issue as my fan where on most of the time and engine temps where quite low.

Kind Regards
D

Sidecarbod
21-03-10, 08:44 AM
I want to install an air bleeding point for my cooling system in the sumo, Im confused after reading the forums where is the best place to put it.
top hose (thermostat to rad) CBS do an inline housing to accomodate a m10 bleed screw, or ive also been told that the best place for a bleed point is the hose going to the heater, this is I think is 5/8 and i cant find anything anywhere that connects inline to 5/8 to install bleed point.
Anyone clear this up?
Is everyone in agreement that a restictor is required on the hose from top of rad to top of expansion tank?
Do you fully close the restrictor or leave open slightly?
Whats the best way to fill the system once a bleed valve and restrictor is added?
I have replaced the thermostat to a higher value and replaced the fan switch to higher than pilgrim issue as my fan where on most of the time and engine temps where quite low.

Kind Regards
D


Hi David,

I have a Sumo but with a Rv8 fitted, I don't have any bleed fitted but I've never had a problem filling the cooling system. If you really do want to fit one then I guess that the highest point on the pipe that leaves the inlet manifold would be a good place to fit it.

With regards to the return pipe to the expansion tank you must not block it off totally but a restrictor with a 2-3mm hole will work well. I used a 15mm long piece of 12mm copper pipe placed inside one of the silicon joints. I filled the piece of copper with solder then drilled a hole in it.

To fill the system just pour the coolant into the header tank and keep pouring until the system will take no more coolant and the tank is half full. (not full to the brim). Then run the engine with the cap off and keep adding coolant every time the level drops, blip the throttle to shift the trapped air. Once the stat opens the level will drop quickly so be ready with the coolant.

Kill the engine no later then 3 minutes after the stat has opened as it will be getting quite hot and the system will not be pressurized. Then take the car for a spin, once it has fully cooled down (5 hours at least) check the coolant level, it will probably need a top up to get it half way up the tank.


Cheers,

Pete





















































Pete

plantman
21-03-10, 05:32 PM
I'm thinking of fitting a bleed tap in the heater hose, 15mm or 5/8. What I'm looking at is a "T" piece which is chromed from a diy store, used for plumbing in a washing machine. Just fit two pieces of 15mm copper pipe and insert in the heater hose. Open the tap to let the air bleed out when filling and close when done. I take it you mean header tank and not expansion tank. I have also fitted an expansion tank to the header tank via a pipe from the overflow, no more half full header tank

Chris

janandchris
25-03-10, 02:18 PM
After a few air lock and bleeding problems with my Sumo (rover V8) I moved the header tank to the front and fitted a filler cap in the top hose ( Thermostat to rad ) pipe. With a pipe going to the header tank. No problems since then!

Ian Lloyd
29-03-10, 07:19 PM
If you are going to fit a restrictor into the header tank pipe put it in the bottom pipe not the top otherwise you will stop it bleeding properly however filling the system is then a pain.

I did not fit a restrictor just used a small bore pipe for the bottom pipe it was a tight fit but has worked well for over 4 years. with no over heating even with a chevy small block.

Ian

Sidecarbod
29-03-10, 07:45 PM
If you are going to fit a restrictor into the header tank pipe put it in the bottom pipe not the top otherwise you will stop it bleeding properly however filling the system is then a pain.

Ian

If you don't fit the restrictor in the top pipe then a lot of the hot coolant coming out of the block will will "short circuit" into the header tank just as it enters the rad rather than going through the rad.

At the end of the day the top pipe only has to bleed air out of the system so it would have to be a VERY small hole before any air in the system found it too restrictive to pass through. The bottom hose supplies the "head" of coolant so personally I would not restrict that.

All just my humble!

Pete

Sidecarbod
29-03-10, 07:52 PM
Just yesterday I changed the coolant in my RV8 and I must admit that it was a slight pain. I just filled the system from the header tank and it did not take much. I then ran the engine for a minute but it would not take any more coolant and I could tell that the top hose was dry as it remained cold. I then totally disconnected the top hose at the manifold but the level in the header tank still did not drop. (So a bleed in the top hose would have made no difference at all)

I decided to carefully fill the block via the manifold and the rad via the disconnected top hose. I got loads more coolant into the system.
I then reconnected the top hose, ran the engine and filled the system via the header tank as the level started to drop.

Noel
29-03-10, 07:54 PM
Agree...it MUST be the small top hose that has the restrictor otherwise you will be by passing your rad and making the expansion tank do the cooling.....that doesn't work...believe me!! I used an ally rod with a 2mm hole drilled through it.

I now have a NASCAR rad with a proper air bleed in the top hose (from CBS) as Dave is looking at. Now minutes to fill as opposed to 45mins :cool: