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millsd60
21-07-01, 11:41 AM
Guys

I am awaiting the delivery of my GD427 chassis, so I am busy building the front and rear suspension, Oh and an engine/gbox (350 chevy + getrag 5 speed box).

Now, looking at the rear suspension and fitting the rear lower wishbone carrier plates. What shims have you GD builders used and how much toe in have you put on the lower wishbone, if any?

I haven't got the build manual yet, but would like to set up the wishbone carriers ready to drop the diff and rear end assembly into the chassis when it arrives. The video Andy gave me is a bit vague on this subject.

Any help / advice appreciated guys

Thanks Dave Mills

Paul Gayter
22-07-01, 07:24 AM
Hi Dave,

I am also building a GD and it is Jag based. You don't say if yours is Jag based or a GD Euro. If yours is Jag I have the required info and plenty of pictures to help you. Jag or Euro that is the question?

Paul Gayter.

Steve Senior
23-07-01, 08:57 AM
On the assumption you are using Jag components the following is from the manual.

If you have to re-shim the wishbone carriers, slite file fit of the brackets is acceptable after the correct toe adjustments have been made. The ideal rear toe-in setting is 0.25mm – 1.00mm max. each side, i.e. 0.5mm – 2.00mm toe-in overall. The latter setting is good for stability in late braking manouvres but a little heavier on tyre wear.

Andy sent me an electronic copy of the manual, I am sure if you ask he would send it to you. Also have you seen my site where I am documenting my build at http://users.pgen.net/steve.senior

Steve

millsd60
23-07-01, 10:41 AM
Paul/Steve

Yes mine is Jag based; sorry forgot that bit of vital info.

Thanks for the info about the toe in, what I think I'll do is shim it to achieve the correct setting, then machine off the wishbone carrier bracket the required amount from the front fixing point. I have a vertical milling machine so that will be no problem. I just need to know exactly how much to machine off.

Thanks Guys

Hey the pictures might be helpful Paul. Any chance of you EMailing me them?

dave.j3.mill@bt.com

Thanks

Dave Mills

Paul Gayter
23-07-01, 12:18 PM
Hi Dave,

Due to the volume of data it will be easier if I send you a CD with the Photo's to date. If you mail your address to me I will burn a CD for you.

p.gayter@btinternet.com

For your info I too modified the holes in the brackets slightly to get the correct toe in. As there is a considerable movement of the rear suspension under acceleration I have chosen a minimal amount, just visible on the wheel alignment guage. I have plenty of time regret this!!

Certainly I have found that the more toe in the back has the more stable a vehicle feels in a straight line but the tyre wear can be staggering. Especially as the natural tendancy of the rear geometry is to Toe In anyway.

All the best

Paul Gayter

millsd60
24-07-01, 01:39 PM
Steve

When you say .5 to 2.5 MM overall toe in, I assume your are measuring that either end of the wishbone fulcrum shafts. I.E. the centre distance detween the shafts being .5 - 2.5mm narrower at the front of the diff than at the back of the diff.

Dave Mills

Steve Senior
24-07-01, 04:59 PM
Dave
My understanding of toe-in is that it is measured at the front and rear of the tyres.

There are several methods of measuring it including scribing lines in the tyre or pushing pins into the tread however during the build I found it easier to clamp straight edges (or angle iron) to the hubs. I also found it useful to clamp a baton to the chassis and mark the centre line, then you can measure the toe in on each side.

If you want a more detailed description give me a call (01926 777009) and I will talk you through what I did in more detail

Steve