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mikey
23-07-01, 09:45 PM
Third Toyota Gearbox Getting noisy so decided on fitting a Tremec. Engine is a 350 Chev reasonably tuned 371 BHP 402 lb-ft on the rig. To anyone who has fitted the Tremec is it worth the hard earned dosh. Will the standard rather than the heavy duty do. Wheres the best place to shop (import ?)Im a yorkshireman so this means cheapest although suppose I can get a good price on the girlfriend .Any problems to be aware of (not on the girlfriend), the conversion.
Also (does this guy want blood?) has anybody experienced rear end steer from their cobra Dax/Jag Axle. Just happened to me after 5 yrs happy motoring. Nothing obvious-most likely causes please as Girlfriend is fed up of visiting kerb.Happens as pulling away under power whilst straightening up from corner.in a left hand bend rear end suddenly leaps towards kerb.
If anybody can help I'd be grateful.
Mike.
& The Girlfriend:o

wilf
23-07-01, 10:17 PM
Mike - have a tremec TKO in my Crendon, with stroker 351w putting out 450 plus BHP and lbs ft (dyno this week to prove!).
Have heard mostly good things about the tremec - that's why I went for one. The tko version has a beefed up input shaft and bearings with different splines from the 3550, otherwise it's the same. Supposedly good for another 50 or so lbs ft. Most folks use the standard 'box - we are more likely to get wheelspin than transmit the full torque thro' the box. Me? I wanted no, repeat no, gearbox problems ever, so I went for the hd version. This version also comes as standard with a short throw shifter.
Nice change, useful o/d top, but you might have to look at your back end ratio to make sure it suits- mines 3.31:1. For most cost effective purchase - bring it in from the 'states. for $!!
Is your rear axle lsd? Might be the reason for the back end stepping out if summats up with it. Or rear tyres/shocks getting worn? Otherwise you should take a real good look around all the bearings in that rear end (the cars, not the girlfriends). Anything looks broke or moves when you prod it - investigate further. Broken radius arm mount?? Broken anything mount?? UJ's on their way? Or just a tad heavy on the right foot?? (Been there, done that, frightened myself, won't do it again, 'cept on track days)

My 2 c's


Wilf

RigMan
24-07-01, 07:11 AM
Tremec's are good boxs, as Wilf says the TKO is a bit stronger, but you've got to be able to hook up a tremendous amount of torque on the 3550 to damage it. On a light Cobra, almost regardles of power from a small block , this should never be a problem.

I bought mine from Real Steel, I looked at importing it myself, but what I gained on the price in the States I lost on shipping costs. Therefore I bought from RS, and have the peace of mind that if there is any problem with it I can take it back (unlike girlfriends). Coupled with it I bought the adapter plate and shatter proof bellhousing along with Hydraulic Throw out bearing,clutch assembly etc. Downside is that quality is not cheap and you will be hard pressed to find anything second hand. My advice is that if the girlfriend has a well oiled chassis and idles smoothly, then rent her out. This should provide the necessary funding for the more important things in life.

Welcome to the Forum!


RigMan;-) ;-) ;-)

imported_admin
24-07-01, 11:44 AM
>Tremec's are good boxs, as Wilf says the TKO is a bit stronger, but
>you've got to be able to hook up a tremendous amount of torque on the
>3550 to damage it. On a light Cobra, almost regardles of power from a
>small block , this should never be a problem.
>
>I bought mine from Real Steel, I looked at importing it myself, but
>what I gained on the price in the States I lost on shipping costs.
>Therefore I bought from RS, and have the peace of mind that if there
>is any problem with it I can take it back (unlike girlfriends).
>Coupled with it I bought the adapter plate and shatter proof
>bellhousing along with Hydraulic Throw out bearing,clutch assembly
>etc. Downside is that quality is not cheap and you will be hard
>pressed to find anything second hand. My advice is that if the
>girlfriend has a well oiled chassis and idles smoothly, then rent her
>out. This should provide the necessary funding for the more important
>things in life.
>
>Welcome to the Forum!
>
>
>RigMan;-) ;-) ;-)


Hi RigMan,
I've just bought a Hydraulic Throw Out bearing assembly from Real Steel. Is it any good? Have you any tips or info. regarding fitting? Are there any gremlins you've discovered? Any feedback will be appreciated.
Cheers, Simon

wilf
24-07-01, 01:45 PM
Simon - take a look at the Mcleods threads on clubcobra.com - might forestall some gearbox re-installations!

Wilf

Roscoe
24-07-01, 02:26 PM
You should have no problem with the standard 3550. I'm running a 351W with a good 400 horses, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Tilton hydraulic bearing and 3550 Tremec.

To answer your questions about hooking up to a Chevy why don't you contact, via email, Jim Swarr at http://www.jimswarrauto.com/. He is a Tremec dealer, racer of Mustangs and a great guy.

My Tilton throwout bearing was a breeze to install and works great. Tilton also has a great support line.

Contact me if you have additional questions.

Roscoe
http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

RigMan
25-07-01, 06:22 AM
Hi Simon

Throw out bearings can be a bit of a pain. There are all kinds of horror stories out there, but if they are installed properly acording to the instuctions you get with the bearing, then you should be OK. I had a leak with mine, but that was my fault for not checking the banjo bolts. If they don't fail in 50 miles and you have installed it properly, then you should not have a problem! Be sure to check the clearance between thrust face and fingers, and to install a bump stop for the pedal so not to over pump the bearing! Don't use silicon fluid, and test the bearing first when it is hooked up to the hydraulic circuit if you can. I clamped it and put a high load on it and it held firm! Gives you confidence and peace of mind!

The benefits of these units are that they need no adjustment once on, take up no room, and reduce pedal pressure. Additionally you do not need a slave cylinder! However, a seperate reservoir for the unit is advisable, DAX share the one with the brakes!

Happy building


RigMan:-)

mikey
25-07-01, 08:37 PM
Thanks for the response wilf. Been underneath everything seems reasonably tight,(no I'm not still on about the woman).Slight movement on radius arm, more perception than movement. Only done 8000 mls. You mentioned LSD(axle not the hard stuff)being a possibility, can this make the car exhibit the rear steer which was more than a step in than a step out. Appreciate the help.
By the way any of you forum guys going to Coys, see you there for a beer or two if you are.
Mike.

imported_admin
26-07-01, 01:05 AM
OK guys, I have the MCleod hydraulic throwout bearing and clutch (I'm not sure what the clutch diaphragm spring pundage is), my clutch pedal is as hard as a rock. What size master cylinders are you using? I think mines 3/4"

Andy

simon
26-07-01, 10:29 AM
I know of someone with a Tremec gearbox for sale (believe it to be 3550, do not know condition at the moment) if you are interested, I can find out more........
Simon
simonjrwinter@hotmail.com

simon
26-07-01, 10:33 AM
Also know of a Saginaw gearbox as fitted to Chevys.....dont know much about these though...
Simon

Roscoe
26-07-01, 01:40 PM
Andy,
As recommended by Tilton, I'm using a 7/8" Girling type Master Cyl.
Clutch works fine and is not hard.
Roscoe

Roscoe
http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

wilf
26-07-01, 11:02 PM
Mike - dunno if the LSD rear is your problem, - my personal 2c's is that they make a road car more twitchy than it needs to be, but are essential only for the track.
Your "step in" problem - have you had the rear end alignment checked out? Just had mine checked and it looks as tho' I am going to spend a while under the car getting it right! Even so, it doesn't manifest (good word that) as the kind of prob you have. What kind of welly were you giving it? Changes in road surface (road coefficient of friction) are probably grosser than any alignment problems.
Do you have an LSD or not?
If all is tight in your rear end (mine is, ducky) then it is probably impossible to daignose your problem without driving the car personally. Where are you in the country? Do you know a good guy for setting up suspsension? if so let him try it and diagnose it. Remember that in a short wheelbase car like the Cobra, lift off oversteer is always going to be there, and worse with an lsd. From what you said tho', did the rear end seem to "steer" itself?

Tryin to help

Wilf

wilf
26-07-01, 11:46 PM
Mike - have thought further about your symptoms - if I've got it right, back end steps in on a left hand bend as you power out of it? Hmm - could just be a tad of wheelspin and slidey back end follows camber? Or not that much power on? how fast were you going? You tryin to frighten your girlfriend into submission or what? Try flowers and chocolates- cheaper than petrol!

Wilf

imported_admin
27-07-01, 05:01 PM
Have just realised after reading the last reply that my dax does the same it seems to dig in on a left turn or veer to the left and i reckon it is the lsd but u do get used to it .

Steve

imported_admin
28-07-01, 01:07 AM
Roscoe - A 7/8" cylinder would probably make the problem even worse, I think that the diaphragm poundage is probably too heavy. I think the gearbox will be coming out soon to check.

Andy

Roscoe
28-07-01, 10:25 PM
Andy,
I agree. But you asked what I was using. You should use a smaller one.

Roscoe
http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

Peranaman
05-05-08, 08:30 PM
You should have no problem with the standard 3550. I'm running a 351W with a good 400 horses, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Tilton hydraulic bearing and 3550 Tremec.

To answer your questions about hooking up to a Chevy why don't you contact, via email, Jim Swarr at http://www.jimswarrauto.com/. He is a Tremec dealer, racer of Mustangs and a great guy.

My Tilton throwout bearing was a breeze to install and works great. Tilton also has a great support line.

Contact me if you have additional questions.

Roscoe
Cobra Project Page (http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm)

Hi I wonder if you might kindly answer the following for me?

About to install the Tilton hydraulic clutch - Tilton hydraulic clutch set up (61-601 Hydraulic unit and 61-612 T-5 bearing retainer. My transmission is Tremec T5z.

I notice that the Tilton hydraulic base unit sits about 2mm above the transmission casing BEFORE bolts are tightened down - see attached picture.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff190/peranaman/Perana/clutch/retainer-prefitting.jpg

Is that normal? Can we just tighten the bolts until the Tilton base sits flat on the casing - or will that damage the tapered roller bearing?

Sorry if this is a dumb question - but the instruction sheet that came with the bearing doesn't really address that aspect.

Lastly, the thrust bearing - how does it 'sit' or fix to the piston?

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff190/peranaman/Perana/clutch/bearing-and-piston.jpg

My bearing has no visible means of fixing to the piston in the horizontal plane - i.e. it just falls off. Obviously when in the vertical ( piston facing upwards the bearing sits there but it looks as though there should be a bush or washer type thing that holds it in place?

Not sure if there's anything missing? Can't imagine the bearing is supposed to just hang there, held in place by the fingers of the clutch or am I wrong?