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RigMan
10-09-01, 07:00 PM
Can any one tell me the required thickness of shims to achieve a degree movement for rear end camber adjustment. I want to have enough shims on hand before I start the job, so anybodies previous experience here would be greatly appreciated!


RigMan:D

TonyD
10-09-01, 07:44 PM
Sorry dont know the thickness of the shims required but I would recommend using shims with a bolt hole....not the U shaped shims you push either side of the bolt. I just bought my Jag IRS and when I got it home to strip it down the inner mounting was loose and rattling on the diff housing. The bolts were still wired however, but it appears that the shims had vibrated loose over the years and had disappeared, which must have made for interesting handling in the original Jag. Bolting through the shim will ensure that the shims cant fall out.

We wouldnt want Rigmans back end to get all loose and floppy would we ?:D

robert
11-09-01, 01:04 PM
Rigman

I received and email regarding you rear end.

Rob,

If Rigman means camber then he is referring to the shims placed between the disc and drive shaft flange. best set-up for road use is wheel upright at ride height - easier done with spring/damper removed having first made a note of wheel height to say, body at ride. Removing shims gives negative camber I.e. wheel in at the top.

On the other hand if he is referring to toe-in adjustment, then this is done between the wishbone pivot carrier and diff. casing. the shims are 7 thou/inch. Main point here to realise is, the shims are fitted to correct machine tolerance so each side of the diff is not forced to be the same, and each Jaguar car is not forced to have the same number of shims. One can only fit and measure toe to be accurate but don't forget to check the thrust line also otherwise you could get a little crabby.



Best Regards

Robert
Forum Admin

wilf
11-09-01, 02:16 PM
Rigman - my sympathy and sorrow to a fellow sufferer of problem rear ends!

You could try speaking with John Gordon Jag spares (Les seems to know his stuff), or Ed Ward, to get a feel for what shim sizes you need to effect a certain change in camber. If it helps, I found that if you let the suspension droop fully, i.e. disconnect the bottom ends of the spring/damper units and disconnect the radius arm (if the have them), you can get a socket onto the nuts securing the drive shaft to the disc carrier at the "top", this is much easier than trying to spanner the damm things off. You may have already discovered this for yourself, if so blow me down!
Whilst the thing is stripped down that far, you might as well check that the discs are running centrally within the calipers, which is affected by the shims between the disc and the diff output flange.

If you do have to change toe in/out, I echo the comment about full shims between the diff and the bottom wishbone pivot carrier - the horseshoe shaped ones can drop out.

I assume tho', that you know the difference between camber and toe in, else you would have asked about toe in!!!

I still don't know where you heard about the 5000 rpm in 5th thing???? It was very noisy tho'.

cheers

Wilf

RigMan
12-09-01, 07:01 PM
Thankyou Gentlemen for your considered responses about my rear end, thrusting or otherwise. I am indeed refering to the Camber and not toe in, I set that up when I built the whole sub assembly before it went on the chassis. I remember paying 50 quid for the amount of horse shoe shims required! I choked on my bacon sandwich at that!

I have DAX's required Camber setting (" Neg) if I remember, but as I am leaning in 1 degree one side and 1 the other I want to know what thickness of shims I need to attain " Neg. I don't want to have to keep trial fitting them, it'll take me years otherwise to find the correct thicknesses.I just want to fit the corect thickness of shims and have the right settings straight away

Can't remember where I saw your tail of 5 grand in 5th Wilf, some where in this forum I'm sure! Brave man.;-)

RigMan:-)

imported_admin
12-09-01, 07:05 PM
IV JUST SET UP THE REAR END ON MY AK.
WITH THE DIFF OUT OF THE CHASSIS I CENTERD THE DISCS USING THE JAG SHIMS SO THAT THEY WERE DEAD CENTER OF THE CALIPERS.I USED THE OLD NUTS TO TIGHTEN USING WASHERS TO PACK OUT. IT IS A BIT FIDDLY BUT IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME THERE SHOULD BE NO PROBLEM.
WITH THE DIFF FITTED USE 3 SHIMS ON EACH SIDE AS A STARTING POINT, BOTH WISHBONES AND DRIVESHAFTS IN PLACE AND TIGHTEN IT ALL UP. FOR THE NEXT STEP YOU WILL NEED TO MEASURE THE ANGLE AT RIDE HEIGHT OF THE HUB ON EACH SIDE AND THIS CAN ONLY BE DONE IF THE CHASSIS IS LEVEL.
THE RIDE HEIGHT CAN BE SET APPROX BY PUTTING A JACK UNDER THE HUB AND LIFTING TILL THE DRIVE SHAFTS ARE LEVEL.IE POINTING STREIGHT OUT.
WITH THE CAMBER GAUGE MEASURE THE ANGLE WHICH SHOULD BE 0 TO 1 QUATER OF A DEGREE, THIS WILL PUT AS MUCH RUBBER DOWN ON THE TARMAC WHICH IS WHAT YOU WANT.
IF IT IS A POSITIVE READING TAKE SHIMS OUT AND ADD FOR A NEGATIVE READING.
I ENDED UP WITH 3 ONE SIDE AND 6 ON THE OTHER.
IF YOU DONT HAVE A CAMBER GUAGE A GOOD SPIRIT LEVEL WORKS JUST ASWELL AS I CHECKED MINE USING THIS METHOD TO.

HOPE THIS WAS USEFULL
ANDY RICHARDSON

paul
12-09-01, 08:13 PM
Hi there Rigman I take it you have already spoken to Gary or James at Dax they were very helpful when I re cambered the rear of my car (change from 15 to 17" rims)
cheers
Paul :-)

RigMan
13-09-01, 10:29 AM
Yes Paul, I have but I didn't get a difinitive answer, typical!



RigMan.

RigMan
16-09-01, 10:09 AM
I have found out that the shims are a standard thickness and that each shim will provide degree of positive camber. By removing the wheel it is easy to access the nuts on the output shaft and remove the drive shaft. Easy job. I'd like to say thanks to Bob Burchell for lending me his digital protractor, it's brilliant!

RigMan:-)