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Bowtie
14-10-01, 11:29 PM
A question for anyone familiar with the AK 427. How easy or hard is it to remove engine and gearbox after the car is fully assembled (body bolted to the chassis, engine installed etc.).

The reason why I am asking is because I might have to drop an unmodified Chevy 350 TBI in it to get it trough registration (this is due to Swedish law not SVA) and I then have to exchange it for a proper engine later.

Note 1 – To Wilf, no the proper engine will not be a Ford, it will be the same Chevy 350 rebuilt :D

Note 2 – To Robert, yes I do know that the GD body comes of in a snap but the question is about the AK :D

Thanks in advance / Bowtie

robert
15-10-01, 09:29 AM
>Note 2 – To Robert, yes I do know that the GD body comes of in a
>snap but the question is about the AK :D

Should have .................

Robert
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StuartH
15-10-01, 11:39 AM
Not sure about removing the engine and gearbox together, though I will find out soon as I'm planning an engine swap too. I do recall that getting to the gearbox mounts was a real fidly job nightmare because you have to get past the exhaust- if you have underslung ones- and then the mountings are still a bit tricky because of the chassis backbone(I found out because I forgot the load spreading washers (must have been one of those 2am type jobs!!) - would have been an SVA fail if Dan at AK hadn't spotted it), once youve done that I don't reckon it'll be too hard as long as you remove the bonnet and jack the back of the car right up (as reccommended by pilgrim build manual).

Stuart

wilf
15-10-01, 01:53 PM
>
>Note 1 To Wilf, no the proper engine will not be a Ford, it
>will be the same Chevy 350 rebuilt :D
>>
>Thanks in advance / Bowtie

Then it can hardly be called a "proper" engine, can it??


Wilf
}> }> }> }>

imported_admin
16-10-01, 08:30 PM
The question you ask depends on who built the car.
If it has ben built as ak intended then it should be easy. Remove the body as there is less chance doing any damage to the paintwork.
I have had mine off a few times although it is not yet fully completed and it takes me about 2 hours to do.
The only things you should need to remove are as follows :-

1 hand brake cable from lever end
2 all electrics from engine ie starter alt coil and senders all the loom should be attached to the body.
3 fuel pipe from filler to tank
4 brake lines from servo and vac pipe
5 cables ie choke etc
6 water hoses from heater
7 if you have side exausts then they will have to be taken off
8 front bumbers
That should be the only conections between the chassis and body apart from the securing bolts which include the seatbelt securing brakets/rollover bar
Thats all there is to it apart from 6 big blokes to do the lifting.
You can make it easier to lift by removing some of the interior.
I myself built the car with this in mind for future upgrades. let me know how you get on
andy

Bowtie
16-10-01, 10:16 PM
Thanks a lot for your reply. This sounds promising even if I have to remove the body ones or twice. I will probably try to get my car registered as plain as possible (without paint, standard Jag wheels and tires to pass noise tests etc. Hey we don’t even have to have a windscreen mounted when we register in Sweden). So I probably have to disassemble it more than once before I am happy with the result. I better plan the build so that the attachment points you pointed out are as easy as possible to disconnect.

Thanks again, all for your replies and keep adding to this list if you have any other thoughts or ideas on this subject. This is really a valuable source of information :)

/ Bowtie

robert
16-10-01, 10:26 PM
>I do know that the GD body comes of in a snap

I have it off all the time. :+ :+ :+ :+

Robert
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