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Miket
07-12-01, 05:21 PM
Hi Folks
I am, in the very near future installing a 355 SB Chevy producing 360bhp into my part built AK. Can anyone advise as to the best fuel pump to fit, I have been told to go mechanical and also electric.

Any advise on best buys and where to purchase would be gratefull.

Mike T

mark
07-12-01, 07:57 PM
sorry the end says ring Smax on 01772617506 for any info or part ,standard or speciel

RigMan
08-12-01, 02:53 PM
Carter fuel pumps are excellent as well.


RigMan

nbracken
08-12-01, 09:04 PM
Mike, I think virtually everyone goes electric variety. I have a Holley - you can buy in the US roughly $ for and even ith shipping it is usually cheaper - esp if you don't get charged customs - seems to be quite variable on small stuff that I have had shipped - sometimes you get charged and sometimes you don't. Summit Racing stock several types - they are on the web and do an excellent catalogue.

Regards

robert
08-12-01, 09:16 PM
Mike

I have an EDA engine in a GD putting out over 600hp, and run a mechanical pump with no problems.

The issue is whether or not you want the hassle of having a return feed to the tank, and a stall/ignition cut-off switch. It is far simpler just to have a mechanical pump. If the engine ain,t turning, the fuel aint pumpin'

Robert
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wilf
08-12-01, 09:28 PM
Hi Mike - I did post this before, but it seems to have got lost in the ether somewhere.
If you go the electric pump route, be prepared for the noise they make. These external pumps are not almost silent like the in-tank HP pumps for efi production cars. They really do make a row, and even fitting rubber mounts seems to improve things little. When questioned about this in my car, I usually say "Oh, it's a race pump, they are prety noisy aren't they?"
With an electric pump, you really should arrange for it to shut off in the event of an accident - either run the feed to the relay through an oil pressure switch, or fit an inertia cut off. Also a filter on the suction side of the pump is needed. I put my pump up in the boot on a convenient sidewall, along with the suction filter, for ease of access. It seems to draw from the tank (which is under the boot floor) OK. As Rigman says, take a look at the Carter pumps, which are significantly cheaper than holleys. You will also need a pressure regulator and final filter before the carb.

HTH

Wilf

paul
09-12-01, 11:42 AM
Hi there like Wilf I had my carter fuel pump in the boot but in the end I mounted between the chassis rails because the noise was amplified in the boot even though it was rubber mounted.I also put a separate switch on the dash to isolate the pump for the likes of the MOT when they have your ignition on(without the engine running) for testing the flashers or wipers, otherwise your pumping fuel.
cheers
Paul

Miket
11-12-01, 03:49 PM
Thanks Guys

I have purchased a Carter on your advise.

Cheers

Miket

imported_admin
11-12-01, 05:09 PM
When I put the ZZ4 in my car I did some research. I wanted to be sure that I would always have "juice" the the Holley 670. I contacted Holley and was told there was no way I needed to go to anything other than the stock 350 pump. Since I like simple, (boy do I like simple) that is what I did and it seems to be flawless and with out the noise of the electric.

Bish

wilf
11-12-01, 05:53 PM
Would this be a good time to say "only joking"????


WIlf

simon
14-12-01, 05:36 AM
I've just bought an electric fuel pump and have been reading the comments about fuel pump noise.....is this an issue???? HAVE YOU HEARD THE NOISE THESE CARS MAKE????}>

wilf
14-12-01, 09:51 AM
Simon - you are quite right, the pump is never audible at anything above tickover, but you are missing the point! - We are perfectionists in all we do!! (Hmmm). The pump noise is really noticeable when the engine is not running, but even this can be overcome if you wire the thing through an oil-pressure activated switch. Then you need an over-ride to get some fuel into the carb to start it initially, and so the cycle of complication goes on!

Anyway, I was always brought up to believe that precision engineered items don't usually make much noise. Obviously there's little precision in my engine, just brute force!!

Wilf

robert
14-12-01, 09:57 AM
Why go to the hassle of the noise and the cut-off switches, and all the other gubins for an electric pump, just go mechanical. There is less to go wrong.

I have a mechanical feeding my lump, and it has caused no problems what so ever.

Robert
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StuartH
14-12-01, 01:24 PM
alternatively you could use a 2-way switch as per the rover sd1 oil pressure switch, connect the normally closed (with no oil pressure) to the starter solenoid connection, and the other to ignition on, so that this is connected to the pump (or in my case a relay for the pump - also make this a wo-way one so it can be used for the low oil pressure light aswell) when there is oil pressure.

Stuart

dave
17-12-01, 07:05 PM
Hi Robert.
My sentiments exactly,why,why,why do people bother with these Carlos Fandango electric pumps (unless they have got space problems(or a Rover Spit.))
the mechanical ones are the Muts Nuts, and a new stock Chevy one is only about 25 and will run anything upto atleast 450 BHP without all the concerns about potential leaks/fire/connections/cut off switches/return pipes/pressure......
And for the people concerned about loss of performance because of the power that it drains from the engine to run it, should first of all stand on the bathroom scales and consider how many of their BHP is lost trying to pull around that 38"+ waist.



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