View Full Version : Pilgrim Sumo Soft-Top Fitting - Help !

27-12-01, 04:29 PM
Happy Xmas all !

I've just begun fitting my soft top to my Sumo, and to avoid buggering it up I'd very much appreciate some advice from you kind Sumo owners.

First job was - remove the petrol tank !! - I know this sounds very odd but the reason for this is that my roll bar height needs raising as it was somewhat under the 215 mm specified in the handbook !. I haven't permanently attached it at 215 mm just yet - I thought I'd leave it 'adjustable' for now in order to gain a bit more adjustment with the hood fit.

Right, enough waffle, my main questions are :-

1) I believe the correct way to start is to align the door gap areas of the hood with the edge of the door gaps. How critical is this area ? ie. do I just try to fix the hood dead-flush here on each side ? & how near to the edge ?

2) How do you make sure that the whole hood fits nice & tight ? Do people 'Gaffa' the front and then work round the back of the car ?

3) Not sure quite how you deal with the fabric at the edges of the 'screen bows' ??. Does anyone have any digital pictures of what this bit should turn out like ??

4) The hood I've got turns out to be marked 'Sumo 3' - I'm assuming that its identical to that for the 'Mk2 V8' chassis which is what I have. Might be worth phoning Tony H. on this one just before I get stuck in with Mr Stanley !!

Thanks in advance ,


27-12-01, 06:36 PM
Hi Pete,
First things first.
you need to make sure that where you are going to carry out the work is as hot as one of those caves in Northern Afganistan...This keeps the hood material nice and supple.

Drill the holes for the hood frame in the top of the "B" post approx 1" out and 1" back from the door shut.

then you need tp check that the screen is at the correct angle.And as you mentioned,that the roll bar is at the right height.

next, Zip in the side screens, (this helps it keep its form.

line up the seam in the hood above the rear screen onto the roll bar so that it is at the 10 to 10 position (when viewed from the off side).

Fix the hood frame to the roll bar with the straps and studs,checking that the hoods forward seam sits on the top of the frame.

fix the hood to the frame using the velcro wraps.

slide the hood from side to side and adjust the hood frame ends up and down until the hood outer lip touches down neatly and evenly each side next to the frame holes that you drilled earlier.

either use a friend or tape to pull and hold the rear of the hood down on the rear deck.

pull the front of the hood over the top of the screen checking that there are equal amounts of over hang on each side of the screen, and that the side screens hang nicely in their place.

Find yet another friend or more tape to hold the hood down on to the screen.

now have a good look around and do some fine tuning to get it all lined up nicely.

When you are happy(if that is possible as you are bossing around all your best friends ,you are all getting hot under the collar and you are standing in a furnace)you can fit the studs around the rear of the body,pulling evenly and gently on the edge of the hood as you go.

Once the back is all fitted check that the front and side screens are still even.

you can now tackle the front.Pull off the tape and fold back the hood ,Fit the hood bows to the top of the screen (put some duck tape across the top of the screen to protect it from scratches).

pull the hood back over the screen again ,checking for even all the time,pull on some tension and tape down again.

Using the side of a screwdriver shaft,rub along the right angled edge of the hood fabric that folds over the top of the screen.(this leaves a light mark on the inside) to give you a guide as to where the glue should go.peel off tape and fold hood back again.

Paint glue (EVO STIK)along front edge and sides only (not top)of screen bows.

Paint glue on under side of hood forward only of the mark that you made with the screw driver.

When the glue is dry to the touch (approx 15 seconds inside that furnace.he he he )you can very carefully stick the hood back onto the bows.

as soon as it is stuck all around undo the studs at the rear of the hood to take the pressure of the newly glued joint.

once it feels safe enough to work with you may undo the bows.

Now you can glue inside the bows and fold over the spare hood material into the channel(some snips in the material will be required in the corners to allow it to follow the form of the bows.and some fine trimming around the centre locator lugs.

once this is all in and stuck down you can trim it up with your Stanley knife,and stick your draft excluder.

If you have got this far and are smiling you have done very well and you will not need any advice on fitting the side screens except that you must remember that this type of car lends itself to been driven with one elbow on the top of the door...so carefull where you put the studs.

the best of luck for what i consider the worst part of the build.


P.S.if you can follow my instructions, my hat's off to you.otherwise you could ring me on 07785 702005 . Advice is free,i only charge if i get my hands dirty...or gluey in this case.

28-12-01, 08:17 AM
It wasn't my question but thanks Dave. My wife bought me a hood for Christmas. Or it might have been for herself as she has only been in the Sumo twice since it got legal and both times she got wet. So your concise instuctions will come in very handy once I get my self motivated. How much does it cost to ship a Sumo to Afganistan. Happy New Year.

28-12-01, 04:56 PM
Many thanks for the detailed & prompt reply. I'll try and put this lot into practice over the weekend ... fingers crossed for a happy outcome !


PS. Earlier message I posted a.m. seems to have gotten lost in Robs Server or something !!