View Full Version : Rover Gearbox

20-12-01, 02:37 PM
Hmmm. Bloomin' gearbox x(

Hydrolic Gear box + Cable Operated Pedal = Big Headache for Dan.

I'm sure I saw a post before relating to this subject - I've looked but found nothing. One of you bright Sparks must have over come this...

At present I have the R380 fited to the engine and is mounted in the car (Well the Engine is. The Gearbox is still just hangin' around awaiting the rubber mounting bobbin's. (Thanks Alastair for pointing me in the right direction)) - The Clutch arm is popping out the side and hidden away under the bellhousing. I don't have a slave cylnd' fitted and not to sure If I need one?

I've seen pedal boxes in Europa that have Hydrolic Brake and Clutch Cylndr's - Is this a potential fix? I belive that Pilgrim recommend the Morris Marina pedal assembly - but I can't be arsed to search through anymore scrap yards!

I'd however much rather keep my existing pedal box and adapt the arm...

How have you remedied this solution in the past and how would you do it now?

20-12-01, 03:09 PM
Hi Dan
Although I have a chevy gearbox, I have the same problem. I also have a space problem, but manipulating the skin in the tunnel should resolve much of that one.

I did think about reinforcing the pedal to accept a master cylinder etc... but surly there is a convertion kit or method, perhaps a cable driven master cylinder ?.

Could design something to do this, simple bracket with lever operating cylinder by cable simlar to mastic guns,(obviously stronger) but need cylinder which I dont have just yet.....next on shopping list.

Does anyone have old Rover Master & slave cyliders that I could take measurements from?

If you did make up a device as described is there a potential prob at SVA time ? or if its built strong enough is that OK?

The other option would be to 'adjust' the fork to accept cable, but then the cable would have to pull from the rear of the car, not the engine side. A problem here could be how much pressure needed to operate it at the pedal?

I suppose I could go for the McCleod thrust bearing Unit and do away with the fork, but just how good are they?, and a recent thread gave me concern on reliability.....

problem problems problems.....part of building your own car. :9

Any input would be much appreciated.


20-12-01, 05:33 PM
If you are using a Sierra pedal box then the cable convertion is simple and straight forward. Buy a MK 2 Granada Clutch cable the longest you can find. Then drill out the clutch lever to allow the head of the outer cable to push in until the shoulder hits. Then sight up and drill a hole in the back of the gear box that will let the button on the end of the inner cable pass through it.Then fit the cable to the pedal box pass it through the bulk head and through a spacer that you will have to make up. I have a spare if you want it send me your address and will send it to you.Then pass the cable out down through the exhaust manifold and curl it back in a big C shape and push it through the hole you drilled in the clutch lever until the outer cable shoulder is stopped by the lever and pass the button out through the hole in the bell house. Then make up a keeper plate the stop the button pulling back into the bellhouse.The clutch now works but by the outer cable pushing the lever not the inner pulling. It only works because the cable is curved; but it does work . I know I've done it so have many other Sumo owners. This method of the outer pushing is used on some Mini's.

20-12-01, 09:41 PM
Abbey Sport Cars make a cable clutch conversion for the Sumo which retains the
Sierra pedel box.

I have fitted one on my Sumo, although I have not finished the car, so I hav'nt tried it out yet.

It looks very well engineered though and is easy to fit.

Contact Abbey Sport Cars on pblack@pb100.freeserve.co.uk

or at 26 Tuttles Lane West. Wymondham. Norfolk. NR18 ODS

21-12-01, 01:09 PM

Abbey Sportscars email address: paul.blackman@lineone.net

Website coming soon.


Paul B
22-12-01, 10:53 PM
Hi I am new to the club so be gentle with me.

I have just put my Sumo on the road with the clutch cable modification described on another reply and this is as recommended by Pilgrim.

So far it seems ok but you do have to be very careful with the cable route as it passes very close to the headers and can catch on other parts of the engine.

I have heard that the cable can become strained and I was warned that it could snap at any time, but I will just have to wait and see.

I have also been advised that the cable entry angle through the bulkhead into the cabin is very critical and if the cable enters square to the bulkhead, it will wear very quickly. Pilgrim supply and mounting bracket but I found the Sierra pedal box tube passes through the bulkhead and should be sufficient. I have therefore left their bracket off. After 800 miles, no problems yet.

23-12-01, 10:07 AM
well, shiver me timbers !

The simplest ways seem to work it seems..........I'll put my drawing board away ! and drill a few holes. :7

Never even thought about using the outer sheath to push the fork....boy you guys are ingenious!

I expect the life of the cable is down to how much it rubs between inner and outer cores....Greasing would help...No? and the quality of the cable manufacture as well would play a large part also.

I remember from my cycling days (a long time ago) gentle sweeps for brake and gear cables ensure longer life, so i suppose that carries onto this also!

Two months ago a friend of mine replaced a sierra cable (actually on a sierra) and after about 3 weeks the outer core actually shrunk :'( to the extent that the clutch would not work!!! sometimes cheap is not good!

Thanks everyone for your help...now where did I leave my drill >...>..>

23-12-01, 12:49 PM
One point I forgot is that there should be a washer between the shoulder of the outer cable and the clutch lever. Anther point when the cable is fitted both ends Pull the outer as far out as it will go from the bulk head. measure the ammount of inner cable that you can see and then make the spacer from the bulk head half that lengt. This should let the ratchet on the quadrant take up about halfway which is where yo want it to be. Merry Christmas.

Paul B
24-01-02, 01:02 PM
Spot on !!!!

Just make sure the cable routing is as smooth as possible and that it does not rub on anything, especially the exhaust manifold.

07-11-02, 09:22 PM
I have the cable!

It has been waiting at the store for a couple of weeks and I finally got round to collecting it. Granada Mk2 clutch cable 2 meters in length. I also have the spacer (Thanks). The instructions sound clear but I'm not entirely sure how it works - anyway. I went to drill the hole in the clutch arm and noticed that the clutch already has a slot cut out... I have tried the end of the cable and the button fits through but the out sheath doesn't. I guess this is what is required...

The slight concern I have is that the clutch arm seems very limp... I was expecting it to be fairly hard to push - infact i was able to push it simply. the other more alarming aspect was that once pushed the arm did not return.. Now I'm no mechanic but something is telling me 'it aint normal'. Are my concerns justified? I haven't had the engine running so I'm hoping that it will respond different...

Dan 'Were all these nuts used before' Man

07-11-02, 09:22 PM
After a brain storming session with a can of beer, pencil and paper, I have discovered the workings of the clutch. It's really quite simple like many of you have said. Infact I got so carried away I've drawn a little diagram of the whole operation.

The diagram shows 2 instances of the same engine. The grey line is the bulk head. The red the outter sheath of the clutch cable and the blue the inner cable. The grey blob near the bulk head is the spacer.

The blue cable (Inner cable) is pulled by the clutch assembly. Due to the inner cable being secured against the bell housing the slack in the bow is taken up (This was the bit I was having problems understanding). Because the spacer is present the outer cable slides along towards the fork with a pushing force. I guess the force is also transfered to the spacer but as it hasn't got any where to go it has no effect except to 'hold' the outer sheath.

I guess that if the eclipse of the loop was to come in contact with something (for example a down pipe) which prevented the loop moving towards the bulk head, then the clutch would not work...

It's so simple - Why did it take so long for me to realise.... You don't need to answer that :)

Dan 'Were all these nuts used before' Man