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Adam001
20-08-11, 09:20 PM
Hey,

Finally thought I would put up a running blog for the build of my RAM Cobra. I’ve been lingering about the forum, but time for a formal hello!

Quick intro to me... I’m originally from Surrey, went to University in Loughborough, where I have just graduated with a Masters Degree in Automotive Engineering, I currently reside in North Wales with my parents until October when I move to Nantwich in Cheshire to start work for Bentley Motors. Which means I have plenty of time on my hands for the kit! I know my way round a tool box fairly well and I am a race engineer part time so I’m hoping to put as much as I can into the kit. Hopefully there are other members around for meets which I want to start coming to.

Anyhow...the car! The kit which comprised of the chassis, body and steering/suspension gear was sitting in a friends garage when I was about 17 years old...it had been sitting there untouched since 1985!! So as a typical 17 year old (with taste) I wanted it...badly! And 4 years later myself and my dad convinced him to part with it! I’m not 23...maybe one of the youngest forum goers?

I have decided that the car is a kit car...and will always be a replica so I am not after an out and out authentic replica, rather, a good looking car which has the ability to be a road car but also a racer...so it might not be to everyone’s taste. I’ve done a write up, I have many other photos but there’s that 8 photo limit and I didn’t want to bore you all too much!!

So.... after towing it to Wales I started looking into what I had got myself into!

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0392.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0425.jpg

So immediately I started thinking about engines, including modern BMW/Audi V8s etc but finally decided getting the on the road was best so stuck with the RV8 as I already had the LT77.
So while hunting for a suitable engine to bypass having cats I got to work on other bits, mostly trail fitting and sourcing of parts

Lifted the diff in...and to my pleasant surprise it was a 3.54 PowerLoc Diff

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0262.jpg

Had loads of problems with the rear chassis parts, nothing fitted properly at all so took many hours of grinding and filing to get it to all bolt up
Then sent off the rear hubs to Ward for refurbishment and fitted the rear trailing arms

I have now decided that the rear trailing arm design is completely wrong so am binning them

In with the gearbox and engine mounts

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0279.jpg

Tested the radiator (rover SD1 2600)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0283.jpg

At this point I had a right battle with getting the coilovers together, ended up sending them to a local machine shop!

Found myself a Donor!! A lovely 1990 MOT failure RRC with a 3.9 EFI engine for £350...So off I went in my trusty 110!

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_03082.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0502-1.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0503-1.jpg

More in next Post...

Adam001
20-08-11, 09:20 PM
I then stripped down the engine and started sourcing all the infamous SD1 parts like the flywheel, bell housing etc

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0529.jpg

A trail fit of the engine showed it hit the chassis rail, and after help from here found the RRC sump to be at fault and needed a SD1 version

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0538.jpg

After a short time my new rear hubs and suspension came back and got to work sorting all the hub bearings etc

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0296.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0298.jpg

After a lovely forum member gave me some build wheels got it on the ground

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0301.jpg

At this point I figured it would be prudent to test fit the body and check clearances etc

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0303.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0318.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0336.jpg

More in next post....

Adam001
20-08-11, 09:21 PM
This brings me up to this summer where I got back to work on the car, this time with a bit more ‘go’

Had a good think about the design and what I am hoping to achieve, as I know a lot was IVA dependant I am planning on getting the base car done then will start doing the more performance orientated parts after the test is out of the way!

General design plan...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/267837_10150239066196239_509876238_7498084_7270509 _n.jpg

(Photoshop, based on a google pic, apologies to anyone if I have defaced their car!)
Not decided on the rear braces of the hoops yet as I won’t need them with how I am doing the supports under the car.

The car will have a few choice modifications from the standard package

· Rearward facing bonnet vents
· Nascar / Lightweight Magnesium alloy wheels
· Bias Adjustable Pedal Box
· No Rear Trailing arms to avoid binding/excess loading
· Harness points on roll bars
· Custom 67 Litre baffled and foamed fuel tank with 1.5 Litre external surge tank (2 fuel pumps)
· Raise the front oil cooler scoop so it doesn’t hang down
· Distributorless EFI standalone engine management – likely megasquirt

That pretty much the plan to start, afterwards it will have a full flat floor (hence bonnet vents) along with more changes such as diffuser, AP brakes etc (as funds allow of course!) and naturally...A better engine!

So back to it...
Got to work re-assembling the engine, nothing special just standard.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0001.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0005-1.jpg

Currently not got a clue how to tackle the alternator...I know I can swap to a SD1 Front but would prefer an alternative option.

Engine fitted...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0013.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0022.jpg

It does fit....just, had to cut down the filler cap and the coolant bleed pipe

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0033.jpg

Next.... Got the body back off after making all the measurements I needed

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/DSC_0025.jpg

Then ordered the pedal box, it’s a Optimum Balance Products one, not cheap but I think it’s a vast improvement from the Morris Servo system

http://www.obpltd.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/OBP0T63.jpg


More in next post....

Adam001
20-08-11, 09:22 PM
Got to work fabricating the pedal box bracket

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/DSC_0028.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/DSC_0030.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/DSC_0032.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0001-1.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0003-1.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0008-2.jpg

Back off with the rear end for more welding and a strip down for new parts...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0013-1.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0014.jpg

Just started with the rear roll hoop structure...more to come when I do it

Any questions, comments, advice... all welcomed!

Adam

dolphinboy400
20-08-11, 11:40 PM
looking good adam. You will probably know this but the one thing i wished i had done before body was hone the roll hoop mounts as they had distorted when they were welded into the chassis. My spax shocks were buggered so i got some nice new Pro-tech shocks for mine. I think anthony on here has done some pretty interesting things on his Ram in New Zealand, might be a good idea having a chat with him :D

goughy
21-08-11, 06:00 AM
Impressive. Well done

Adam001
21-08-11, 10:29 AM
looking good adam. You will probably know this but the one thing i wished i had done before body was hone the roll hoop mounts as they had distorted when they were welded into the chassis. My spax shocks were buggered so i got some nice new Pro-tech shocks for mine. I think anthony on here has done some pretty interesting things on his Ram in New Zealand, might be a good idea having a chat with him :D

I have been thinking exactly that, the rear hoop supports don't look to be 100% true welded, I can visibly see some differences in them, and no matter how well I do my measurements I could still be 0.25mm off or something. What did you use to hone yours?

Still have no idea about the shocks on mine, they have never been used since new, but they are 26 years old lol. I'm planning on doing a test day at Anglesey before the IVA to test things like that.

dolphinboy400
21-08-11, 11:59 AM
I used a medium stone honing tool. It took ages but as my body was already on and i didnt want to remove it again i just persevered however seeing as your in the trade so to speak you might be able to do something different :) Cheng at Thunder road cars sorted me out with my roll hoop , very impressed , thicker than some. He is also a great help when it comes to advice on the Ram's a real gent.

Adam001
21-08-11, 04:03 PM
You mean basically a 3 branch engine honing tool? I'm thinking that's the only way, lost for any other ideas lol

I think I'll be going to Cheng for my roll hoops as welding stainless is out of the question for me :p

How did you mount the roll bars? Bolt all the way through?

dolphinboy400
21-08-11, 08:39 PM
You mean basically a 3 branch engine honing tool? I'm thinking that's the only way, lost for any other ideas lol

I think I'll be going to Cheng for my roll hoops as welding stainless is out of the question for me :p

How did you mount the roll bars? Bolt all the way through?

Ya , drilled a 10 mm hole straight through on the outer leg. I made sure they were still a tight fit also i cut mine down a bit ( cheng makes them deliberatly long ) . You wanted to take your shoulder straps from the roll hoop didnt you? I quite like the position of the original mounts but i didnt have to endure the IVA or SVA , i am guessing these are now too low and thats why you want different mounts? Get Cheng to do them at the same time i would :)

Adam001
22-08-11, 04:51 PM
Yeah I've got the IVA to tackle, i've done something very similar to what Bitsilly has done with his rear hoops, so will have the eyes on the roll hoops to get round the height issue. Also had to weld in crush tubes just behind the original metalistic body mounts to hard bolt the harness eyes. Then welded the other side of the inboard harness mounting plates. Hopefully the IVA man will be happy with all that!

Did you use something like this to hone them?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROFESSIONAL-QUALITY-ADJUSTABLE-CYLINDER-HONE-2-7-/120699134491?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1a3aa21b

dolphinboy400
22-08-11, 05:18 PM
Yeah I've got the IVA to tackle, i've done something very similar to what Bitsilly has done with his rear hoops, so will have the eyes on the roll hoops to get round the height issue. Also had to weld in crush tubes just behind the original metalistic body mounts to hard bolt the harness eyes. Then welded the other side of the inboard harness mounting plates. Hopefully the IVA man will be happy with all that!

Did you use something like this to hone them?
PROFESSIONAL QUALITY ADJUSTABLE CYLINDER HONE 2'' - 7'' | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROFESSIONAL-QUALITY-ADJUSTABLE-CYLINDER-HONE-2-7-/120699134491?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1a3aa21b)

ya thats what i used, something similar anyway. You will have to do it in bits or you will glase and crack the stones ;) Speak to cheng as he may know another method seeing as you got the body off. He may even suggest trying them 1st and /or replacing the mounting tubes for something better .

wilf
22-08-11, 05:47 PM
Adam - congrats on a good start. I think you will need to read up the IVA manual - certainly one area you will have issues with would be the adjustable bias brake system - that's a no-no for IVA, unless you (permanently) stop it from adjusting. Others will give more details no doubt.

Good luck with the rest of your build.

bitsilly
22-08-11, 06:06 PM
Ditto,
and as I now know a bit more about you I promise not to teach my granny to suck eggs in the pm's!
The trailing arms it seems were only put there to keep some folk happy, they are not needed or required (as you have figured out) and their geometry is wrong anyway.
As I mentioned, the roll hoops are not central like say a GD, the best I could work out is for both shoulder straps mounted on one point, on the inside of one side of the roll hoop (can't remember which but it will be obvious). That point was very nearly perfect!
You are no longer invited to come and take photos' of mine, as I now seriously doubt it will be up to your standard!

Adam001
22-08-11, 06:36 PM
Haha! Appreciate the compliments :p

I've bolstered and re-enforced the rear roll hoop supports, will put some photos up tomorrow, I'll tackle where I put the harness mounts when I do the bars I think....Assuming the bars will fit! :confused:


Adam - congrats on a good start. I think you will need to read up the IVA manual - certainly one area you will have issues with would be the adjustable bias brake system - that's a no-no for IVA, unless you (permanently) stop it from adjusting. Others will give more details no doubt.

Good luck with the rest of your build.

The ruling has changed :) You no longer have to weld the threads etc, you just need a mechanical locking method (e.g. a split pin through a locking nut) and a sticker near it saying something to the lines of 'Change this bias bar and you may die a horrible death' ;)

I read the 282 Page IVA manual cover to cover a few months ago...that was fun! :p

mylesdw
23-08-11, 01:32 AM
Good work Adam, keep up the photos and info. Thx.

wilf
23-08-11, 08:35 AM
Haha! Appreciate the compliments :p

The ruling has changed :) You no longer have to weld the threads etc, you just need a mechanical locking method (e.g. a split pin through a locking nut) and a sticker near it saying something to the lines of 'Change this bias bar and you may die a horrible death' ;)

I read the 282 Page IVA manual cover to cover a few months ago...that was fun! :p

That's good news, I haven't been keeping up with every IVA change myself, since it was a solid 10 years ago that I passed what was then SVA. Glad to hear you read the manual properly, too many folk seem to think it is optional...........

steve_ram
23-08-11, 11:21 AM
Hi Adam,
If your body shell is still fairly easy too remove,get the rear wheel toe in set/sorted, as it's a right pain too remove the large brace plate under the diff, which also supports the inner rear wishbone pivots. Your looking for 1mm to 1.5mm toe in per wheel,relative to the centre line of the car, don't make my mistake, i used a tracking gauge on the rear wheels (facing backwards)and set the total toe in too 3mm.The car did not feel safe at high speed!!, a four wheel alinement check showed that one wheel had 3.5mm toe in, and the other wheel 0.5mm toe out.
My car is an early model 1985, but i needed to pack up the (MGB) steering rack by 5mm to eliminate bump steer. Both these mods made a huge difference to the way the car handles, and is now a real pleasure too drive, hope this helps.
Steve.

Adam001
23-08-11, 12:52 PM
Hmm I see what you mean, Have to shim the wishbone to diff bracket, are they readily available? I can see why that would be a right pain to do when all assembled.

Not sure what is the best method of measuring it, How did you ascertain the centreline of the car?

Adam001
23-08-11, 12:59 PM
Ignore!!!!

Adam001
23-08-11, 07:49 PM
Bit more...

Got the welding all finished

Welded the inside of the inner seat mounts, not really necessary but figured the IVA would prefer both sides to be welded

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra%20V8/DSC_0027-3.jpg

Then added a crush tube into the side rails just behind the standard metalistic mounting, I'm not a massive fan of another hole being so close but didn't see another way around it, forward of the mount would have been too far forward.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra%20V8/DSC_0033-1.jpg

Ripped off Bitsillys design at the rear end for the roll hoops (ta for the idea), mines not as beefy as his but I think the IVA man will be happy with it

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra%20V8/DSC_0041.jpg

Also finished off the pedal box mounting :)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra%20V8/DSC_0044.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra%20V8/DSC_0046.jpg

Need to relocate the reservoirs as I can't actually get them on properly as the cylinders are too close!

Also gave the Callipers a lick of paint...but they are matt black and not very exciting!

Now just have lots of painting and a small heap of parts to fit!!

Adam001
24-08-11, 08:13 PM
Getting so confused with this forum lol the post above didn't post for 24hours, but yet it is dated yesterday??! lol

Got a bit more done...

Paint...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0050.jpg


After that I decided I needed new front bushes so got some Purple 80 shore bushes off a forum member and fitted them, along with doing the bearings, callipers, pads and mounting the stainless hoses

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0052.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0055.jpg

That's all for today, hopefully my rear suspension parts will arrive tomorrow and I can crack on with the rear.

dolphinboy400
24-08-11, 11:48 PM
i cant seem to get past page 2 of this thread dont know if its just me. all other threads work fine :?

now it works lol . wierd.

looking good adam

Adam001
25-08-11, 09:43 AM
Thanks :)

I've been having loads of problems with this thread, not being able to get to page 3, posts telling me I can't post as I have more than 8 images when I only have 7...then it does it anyway meaning I double post! lol

Is there a moderator about that might be able to shed some light?

aaronjb
25-08-11, 09:44 AM
i cant seem to get past page 2 of this thread dont know if its just me. all other threads work fine :?

I had the same problem - I think Adam's second post on this page 'fixed' the issue :)

Enjoying reading the thread, Adam, keep the updates coming! :)

Adam001
25-08-11, 10:35 AM
See if the battle recommences when I hit page 4 :p

Doing a bit more today then need to spend the weekend preparing the Ultima for the Britcar 24hours, so I'll update next week sometime :)

Levi_501
30-08-11, 10:26 PM
Very interesting, some good chassis pictures, thanks.

RogerKnill
30-08-11, 11:51 PM
Adam
Good thread, keep it up.

regarding the upper rear seat belt mounts, I welded in 2 towers (same diameter as the roll hoop mounts but with a welded end plate that was threaded to take a selt belt eye -7/16th I think) in between the two roll hoop mounts. The one tower is centered behind the driver, the other behind the passenger because as Bitsilly said, the roll hoop mounts are offset to driver and passenger seat.
the towers come up to just under the body and then a small spacer the same dia as the seat belt eye flange, spaces the seat belt eye to just above the body level. My 4 point harness uses the single upper mount for both shoulder straps.

I got our stress guy at work to perform the FE analysis on the upper mount, you could lift the car from either mount.

For the outer lower SB mount, I used the rear body mount, with either a eye welded to the bolt or a long std eye bolt, cant remember which. I had a larger washer made up to fit under the nut of the bolt as a backup should the metallastic bush pull out, to stop it pulling through the frame should the worst happen. Seemed to satisfy the SVA examiner.

I also had the seats made with a thinner cushion than standard and mounted the seats direct to a homemade flat steel frame direct to the floor to make sure the rear mount was high enough. Also helps when looking through the windscreen rather than over it.

a couple of other points you may want to consider
I had to cut out one of the body mounting pads and weld in a slightly bigger one as it was made incorrectly, when I drilled the hole, it broke through the side of the pad. The other 5 were fine.

The front body mounts are a bit dodgy. I had some 2" long sleeves made up and glassed them into the body for the front nudgebar studs(with stainless thin walled tube) to fit in. I also re-made the radiator frame so the fronts were vertical, the standard has the front nudgebar mounting studs coming out at a downward angle and the body resting on the studs covered with some rubber pipe.

keep it up.

Adam001
31-08-11, 04:41 PM
Thanks for that, really helpful.

I think I'm going to stick with the rear roll hoop mounting plan and bolt both upper harness points to the side of the roll hoops on one of the legs, I think bitsilly has done the same, I do like your idea though but I'm reasonably committed with the welding i've done :p Although like you have I think I'll back it up with FEA.

The outer SB mount I've welded in a crush tube just behind the standard mounting point, I was going to put a plate going between the bush mount and the new mount to make sure it's strong and I haven't sacrificed any strength.

Good call on the radiator frame, I didn't notice it did that, did you basically just cut a bit out and re-weld it. My body is not on yet so I'll tackle that one in a few weeks time.

Made a bit more progress so i'll put another update up later

Adam001
31-08-11, 06:41 PM
Test as it wont let me post, says I have 10 images...It can't count...There's only 7!!!!!!


Ok this is driving me mad now...it wont let me post the update

Adam001
31-08-11, 06:54 PM
Try again...Can only post 5 photos...so it's a simplistic update :/

Bit more :)


Parts arrived from Ward so re-assembled the rear suspension and got it fitted to the chassis



http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0095.jpg


Then started work on the Hydraulics


Clutch first, I've gone for part copper, through a 3 way union then Goodrich 600 Series flexible to the slave, reason for the 3-way is because I have a pressure sensor on the line which must be active to start the engine, just a simple safety precaution.


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0091.jpg


I did contemplate doing the entire hydraulic system in Goodrich 600 as it would have looked a bit neater, but it would have cost a good £50-100 extra and I didn't see it being a huge benefit. So instead it's cooper/nickel (damn hard stuff to DIY!!)


On the front circuit there is a 4 way union with another pressure sensor for the brake lights then the pipes go to the chassis uprights where I have mounted the front bulkhead connectors for the front Goodrich hoses


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0093.jpg


Back is pretty standard, run along the outside edge of the inner rail, to the O/S calliper then to the other calliper via a joining pipe, with the bleed nipple on the N/S calliper.

Just a few overview shots, one of the spaghetti that is the master cylinder area and one of how it all stands now :)


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0097.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0096.jpg


Think if I did it again I would do it all in pure copper or stainless


Will give it all a paint tomorrow and start getting the body ready as that's the next step :D


Adam

dolphinboy400
31-08-11, 09:30 PM
looking good :D brings back memories :D

aaronjb
31-08-11, 10:05 PM
Try again...Can only post 5 photos...so it's a simplistic update :/

I believe smileys count as pictures, so they count in the limit of 10 :)

Adam001
31-08-11, 10:09 PM
Hahaha!!! That would make sense...yet be so stupid all at the same time :p

Least I know now...no more pictorial emotion carrying over from now on

oiler0
03-09-11, 09:29 PM
hi adam001
i loved you post of the ram
how old is you kit ???
i would of loved to built a ram but when i brought my dax some 24 years a go 1987 ish
but the ram had a way better chassis set up imop
way back then you could buy the chassis and body separate from dax where the ram you had to buy the body and chassis all in one go
and that was a lot of money to a 21 year old at the time
good to see one being built after all this time
best of luck

Adam001
04-09-11, 07:20 PM
hi adam001
i loved you post of the ram
how old is you kit ???
i would of loved to built a ram but when i brought my dax some 24 years a go 1987 ish
but the ram had a way better chassis set up imop
way back then you could buy the chassis and body separate from dax where the ram you had to buy the body and chassis all in one go
and that was a lot of money to a 21 year old at the time
good to see one being built after all this time
best of luck

Yeah thanks, this one was actually bought in 1985 and has just been sitting waiting for someone to build it...hopefully i'll give it the build quality it deserves.

Another update...

Got the body fitted

Started by making sure the chassis was completed clean, painted and wax-oiled in the areas I would no longer be able to get to then applied the Rubber/Foam strips for spacing.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0101.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0102.jpg

Then fitted the body, it fitted fine over the new roll hoop structure and pedal box bracket...well once I removed the gear stick as I forgot!!
With the body on I started aligning it...this took about a day, there were a few issues with alignment one of the triangulation bars by the fuel tank was welded in wrong (20mm off!!!!) so had to sort that. The boot needed to be jacked up by about 4 inches and the foot wells had to be wound into place.

I measured the alignment using 4 plumb lines on all 4 corners, initially the body was out by 15mm at the front and 25mm at the rear!! After lots of fettling I got it to within 0.5mm, pretty happy with that! So got the 6 securing bolts put in and didn't have any problems even though the tunnel moulding wasn't right.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0105.jpg

With that I cut out a rough hole for the gear stick and fitted the steering column so I can measure it to be modified for the quick release.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0109.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0110.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0112.jpg

Then on the ground, also a shot of the rear support arms, they need a little bit of fettling still I think. (Ignore the flat tyre!!)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0113.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0117.jpg

Getting there!

dolphinboy400
04-09-11, 08:18 PM
a great feeling when the body goes on , well done adam :D

Adam001
10-04-12, 07:14 PM
New update! Been long enough!!

New job has been eating up my time but I'm back to work and spent my Easter on the Cob!

Started work on completing the hydraulic circuits. As I have scrapped the morris set-up I had the challenge of feeding the Master Cylinders with fresh fluid, simple solution, added pipework to put them on the bulkhead with some thermal wrap. Just got some minor fettling to finish them off.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0213.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0217.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0210.jpg

Then got to work working out the Alternator, I didn't want to go for the SD1 set-up and go through the hassle of finding the right parts (and end up with the horrid 9.5mm belts!!) So started fabricating my own to use the waterpump 13mm belt.

I'm using a new 13mm pulley (oversized to under drive the alternator from standard), new bracket on the bottom and modifying the RRC top bracket

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0209.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0228.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Cobra V8/DSC_0230.jpg

No more photos, spent a very long time dimensioning the exhausts, handbrake cable and fuel system. I'll pop some of the CAD up later

Cheers,
Adam

westcott cobra
19-04-12, 07:12 AM
Adam,

Nixe build, but I wonder if the brake fluid canisters will collide with the hood handle positions?

Westcott

Adam001
19-04-12, 06:52 PM
I'm not going for handles, going for 4 aero catches and having the whole thing removable. So will fabricate something to suit in the corners :)

I'm scrapping those pipes now and swapping to braided instead, struggling to find -4 fittings in 7/16" UNF though!

mylesdw
19-04-12, 10:18 PM
I'm scrapping those pipes now and swapping to braided instead, struggling to find -4 fittings in 7/16" UNF though!

Wondering why you would do that? The solid lines are neater and cheaper than braided and will last longer. Just interested.

dolphinboy400
19-04-12, 10:32 PM
I agree with myles. braided wont sit as well as solid pipes ;)

Adam001
19-04-12, 10:43 PM
One of them is leaking slightly, think my flaring on the -4 pipes was sub par, may give them another shot first in that case!

westcott cobra
20-04-12, 07:19 AM
The shops in the UK offer some push on fittings like this one
7/16" Tube Nut And Hosetail Union - BU7168 (http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/mobile/product/7%7C16%22_Tube_Nut_And_Hosetail_Union_BU7168)

Westcott

Lloyd Barnes
20-04-12, 10:44 AM
Interesting thread. Thanks for posting up.. always good to see what others are doing.

Early on you said you have discarded the rear trailing arms to avoid binding which if they are designed incorrectly I can see your concern. Just a question out of curiosity though. What now locates the rear hubs in that "fore/aft" plane? Won't the rear suspension be significantly weakened especially given the power and abuse we put through the rear end of these things? :confused: ... I'm easily confused! :-D

russell_ram2
20-04-12, 11:42 AM
Won't the rear suspension be significantly weakened especially given the power and abuse we put through the rear end of these things? :confused: ... I'm easily confused! :-D

Oh, no, not this discussion again.

I'll start :-

"What now locates the rear hubs in that "fore/aft" plane?"

The fore/aft spread of the inner and outer lower arm pivot bearings.

If you have any compliance in the 'trailing arm', then it will carry near zero load because the displacement of the outer end of the lower arm in a fore/aft direction is near zero. Near zero displacement times low rubber stiffness equals zero load. Lower arm will ONLY work if it is rose jointed and has no compliance between lower arm and body (and must be fitted like on a Dax or the suspension won't go up and down).

"t the rear suspension be significantly weakened especially given the power and abuse we put through the rear end of these things"

No, not in the slighest. More concerning, or not depending on who does the welding, is the fact that we usually saw through the lower arm and weld it back together to narrow the suspension.


Big arguement commences.

Adam001
20-04-12, 01:15 PM
What that man said :p

But no in all seriousness I researched it to a massive extent to see if the design needed changing. The standard set-up is hopeless, my concern was the longitudinal and torsional force through the lower wishbone not being constrained on something not triangulated. The standard trailing arm does not assist with either of these loads due to, as russell says, the displacement not being great enough for it to do anything, instead it restricts the movement of the suspension and constantly loads the bushes. I did run a quick FEA on it and it showed to bend the arm enough for the trailing arm to act against the force you would have to load the arm to the point where the inner bearing pivot shaft could shear off!!

I wanted to put in a forward trailing arm with the axis in line with the inner pivot shaft but the design of the chassis doesn't allow it.

The trailing arms on the Jaguar are there to hold the whole sub-assembly in place and take the longitudinal force as the diff is rubber mounted, not hard bolted like ours. On the jaguar it passively rear steers the rear axle depending on the cornering force, so the trailing arms are rendered useless on our cars. So in effect you could say we do not use the Jaguar axle for it's design intent.

It is a valid question though, really the jag axle isn't the best option for the cars, I may well still redesign to have a triangulated lower wishbone, but I don't think I have heard of one fail yet, but you never know...mine might be a bad one!!

Lloyd Barnes
20-04-12, 01:50 PM
That makes sense.

tidy... I'll chuck the Crendon trailing arms in the bin then :razz:

dominik
27-05-12, 09:00 AM
I think copper line harden and crack under vibration. Unless you have a superior copper.

Adam001
18-05-13, 05:36 PM
Hello!!!!

Been over a year since I updated this thread, so I apologise profusely, but the project is still going to be built. I took a small break out while carrying out a much needed full restoration on my much loved Defender 110. I plan to kick start this project again in a couple of months...but I could do with some advise.

Decided that I will not be happy with the Rover lump, my daily has more power than it! So planning on taking it back out and fitting a different option.

I'm only happy with aluminium block engines, which limits my choices but I do have a reasonable amount of knowledge with Audi V and W engines so am inclined to fit a 4.2 audi V8 engine, circa 360bhp for £500. While the engine and running it will be simple enough the challenge is the gearbox. Does anyone have any experience of either fitting a RWD box to one or welding the centre torsen differential of a quattro transmission to do the same? Either way I know I'll need to convert the flexplate, but I'm not too worried about that.

Spent a while hunting the net...lots of people talk about it, but no one seems to actually do it!

Cheers,
Adam

TonyD
18-05-13, 06:21 PM
I think your best bet would be to get a standard 5 speed box able to take the power, eg Tremec, TKO etc. Welding up a diff to send 360 bhp through only one set of wheel when it was designed for two would even make me think twice.

You will need either an adaptor plate between the gearbox belhousing and engine, or if the standard Audi auto box has a seperate belhousing you could use that and fit an adaptor plate between the bell housing and gearbox.

Replace the flexplate with a flywheel ( with the Audi starter ring gear welded on or fiit the new flywheel on the back of the flexplate), get a suitable clutch and you are good to go.

Will the Audi engine fit widthwise? You could always "massage" the top of the bulkheads to clear the cylinder heads and create some room for the exhaust manifolds.

I'd really love to see this done becuase the engine is a bit of a peach.

Cheers,

Tony

Adam001
19-05-13, 01:02 PM
Physical fitment I need to figure out, don't have the car with me now but the dimensions are as follows...

Length of engine (front pulley to bellhousing face) = 490mm
Max width of engine (across exhaust manifolds) = 760mm
Max height of engine (sump to idle air valve) = 660mm


Figured out the clutch flywheel part of it mostly. (I'll document everything here in case others are of interest) I can do a few things, but it depends on the engine chosen.

the (conservative) 300bhp ABZ units have a 10 Bolt crank which is more restrictive, engine timing is taken off the flywheel using a 60-2 tooth setup, so options...

1) Source a up to 1998 S8 Manual Flywheel that has the matching bolt pattern and sensor pick up then fit a S4/S6/S8 240mm 23 spline clutch

2) Buy this .... Flywheel Insert, Audi V8 Aluminum - 034Motorsport | Performance Parts for Audi, Porsche, and Volkswagen (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-audi-v8-flywheel-insert-audi-v8-aluminum-p-18554.html) which coverts the ABZ flexplate to a lightweight flyweel (nifty!) then use the same clutch above

3) Use a S4/S6 flywheel, but then have to do something on the front of the engine regarding timing wheels.

4) have something machined from scratch giving me more flexibility on clutches

26280

ABZ seems the best choice as they are easier to get hold of, AHC and AVP engines are 8 bolt cranks which are much easier to adapt, but are over twice the price. the AHC has 335bhp and the AVP 355bhp, differences being inlet cam, lifters and mapping. Catcams and 034 motorsport do aftermarket upgrades for these engines so increases in power are easy (but probably costly).

Gearbox wise is the challenge.

Best bet seems to be to go for the T-5 1-1/8" 26 Spline gearbox then find a combination of bellhousing (potentially a Volvo 740td) and a custom bellhousing to T5 Adapter. The clutch will need to be a combination of a S4/S6 clutch and a 240mm 26spline clutch plate.

Next step I think will be buying a ABZ engine and T5 box and poking them together!

Adam001
06-06-13, 06:45 PM
Think I know the way I am going to go...just need to do a bit more viability planning

Engine - ABZ with 10 bolt crank
Flywheel - from TTV Racing component manufacturers - Flywheels, steel flywheels, aluminium flywheels, Pulleys, Valve guides, studs (http://www.ttvracing.com/) - to suit a Tremec 26 Spline Clutch
Bellhousing - RM-4082 quicktime safety bellhousing (Audi to T5) - Import from Quick Time BellHousing RM-4082 Quick Time Audi/Volkswagen Engine Bellhousings (http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+BellHousing/698/RM-4082/10002/-1)
Gearbox - T5/Tremec Gearbox - 1-1/8" 26 Spline
Clutch - Any Tremec suitable clutch to match the custom fly with a internal hydraulic slave
Timing - Use a trigger wheel on the front pulley

That seems to be the most sensible option to follow, but also a little pricey, other option is to use a different bellhousing and design an adapter.

Thoughts? Right way to go? Pretty much interchangeable with the other V8s...just need to machine the flywheel differently.

Elanore427
30-06-13, 04:53 PM
Hey Adam, just wondering how much of a difference the rear diffuser will make?...

Adam001
07-07-13, 11:31 PM
Remains to be seen, the rear end lends nicely to it, a 11 degree ramp should fit nicely. Not run any CFD on it, but it will certainly be more effective than any rear spoiler set-up

Adam001
25-08-13, 11:24 PM
Not been on in a while, I got distracted while finishing a full restoration on this...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/adampalmer001/Land%20Rover%20110/DSC_0890.jpg

(The same car in post 1 of this thread)

Now I am done with that I will bring the car back out of storage. First task is to model the car in CAD then remove the body and CAD the spaceframe to design in the new drivetrain layout.

Adam

Adam001
26-01-14, 10:29 AM
It's looming that I may need to do something rather drastic. I have recently changed job role (onwards and upwards) and finding I haven't got anytime spare for decent project work, other than tinkering on the Land Rover. That combined with a few other things is edging me towards a possible sale of this Project.

So I put it to you, with what's on my Cobra, how much would it be worth? I'm not by a long shot desperate to sell as I love the thing!.

Elanore427
26-01-14, 11:33 AM
Why sell then? Just put the project on ice until you are time rich again?... After all your work if you sell it will be one of those things you will regret for 20 years...

Adam001
26-01-14, 06:58 PM
It's 2 part really, I drive a reasonably fast daily so I'm not finding the need for the speed fix. Depending on how much it could fetch it would help with some of my other aspirations. It's a shame to have it sitting there, but I think it will continue to sit there for a good 5 years, if it's not worth much then of course I would just hang on to it.

Elanore427
26-01-14, 07:16 PM
You'd need to give a list of all the components that come with the chasis and body...

simon
27-01-14, 03:05 PM
PM sent

Simon

Adam001
28-01-14, 07:53 PM
Ok :) The car currently has...

RAM Chassis, components and Body - Chassis Modified to take double rear roll-over hoops and reinforced to take seatbelts on hoops
3.54 Powerlock
Rebuilt Callipers
Standard Suspension (XJ, new pads etc etc)
Rebuilt hubs front and rear
Steering Rack
3.9 RV8 with SD1 LT77 and bellhousing clutch
Build Wheels
OPB Motorsports triple cylinder pedal box
Braided clutch line with sensor
braided front brake lines
Propshaft
Polybushes
SD1 Radiator

Then just all the parts to assemble that.

Superfaber
29-04-14, 08:36 AM
Hi Adam,
I'm inspired by your wonderful thread in order to restoring my RAM Cobra (Chevy 350 engine) here in Turin, Italy.
I would like to ask some question:
are you satisfied about choice of pedals kit?
would you change anything?
Did you have to cut the body to mount it?
Gearbox comes from a Toyota Celica?
Have some pics about bracket to chassis?
Have you some pics of the shaft?
Thank you in advance if you can answer to me
Cheers
Fabrizio

Adam001
07-08-14, 11:24 AM
Hi,

Sorry not been on in a while (obviously!!) I'll reply against your questions...


Hi Adam,
I'm inspired by your wonderful thread in order to restoring my RAM Cobra (Chevy 350 engine) here in Turin, Italy.
I would like to ask some question:
are you satisfied about choice of pedals kit?
Pedals are good and heights match, only thing is they are off-centre, so they would need dog legging like the marina pedals if it causes issues (not convinced it would)
would you change anything?
Rear Diff and Axle assembly, Jag setup is very strong but I'm sure there are lighter alternatives
Did you have to cut the body to mount it?
I have to cut a piece out of the rear boot where the fuel tank sits due to a welding error from the factory, preferred a small body mod to re-jigging the chassis. I also had to cut out a section of the drivers footwell to match the pedal box
Gearbox comes from a Toyota Celica?
Current gearbox is a Rover SD1 LT77 gearbox, if I keep the car I will be removing it for a TKO or similar
Have some pics about bracket to chassis?
Have you some pics of the shaft?
Can you be more specific? I'm sure I'll have some photos

Thank you in advance if you can answer to me
Cheers
Fabrizio