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KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:37 AM
As a few of you may have seen, I recently picked up a pretty much unstarted Classic Replica's kit complete with donor parts from a Jaguar XJS V12.

Here it is loaded up on the trailer last weekend

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35267&stc=1

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:42 AM
Yesterday I managed to spend a couple of hours sorting through the pile of parts from the donor vehicle

Brake Calipers
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35268&stc=1

Front suspension/running gear
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35270&stc=1

Drive Shafts
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35269&stc=1

Alloy Fuel Tank
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35271&stc=1

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:45 AM
Rear Bottom Wishbones/Arms
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35273&stc=1

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:47 AM
I also have the following items - do these get used or are they replaced with substitute parts?

Steering Rack
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35276&stc=1

Steering column, switch stalks etc
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35275&stc=1

Master Cylinder
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35277&stc=1

Brake Servo
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35274&stc=1

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:50 AM
I have the original build manual, not that it is worth much!

It looks like the rear radius/trailing arms and front ARB are used in the build - is this correct?
They are missing from my pile of donor parts, so if someone can confirm that would be appreciated as I will need to source these items.

Dek
06-11-17, 09:14 AM
Good luck and welcome to the growing number, albeit very slowly, of Viper owners! Remember Bob Busbridge of Cobretti is still in businesses. www.cobrettiviperv8.com
Dek

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 09:40 AM
Good luck and welcome to the growing number, albeit very slowly, of Viper owners! Remember Bob Busbridge of Cobretti is still in businesses. www.cobrettiviperv8.com (http://www.cobrettiviperv8.com)
Dek

Thanks

Yes I have spoken to Bob once already. I think phone rather than email seems to be the only way with him though!

TINKA
06-11-17, 10:18 AM
When we built my mates car we didn't fit the trailing arms we just fitted bracing bars triangulating both the wishbones and then fitted one spring and shocker per-side. At this stage it is worth considering if you want dished rear wheels as if you do you will need to have the rear suspension shortened which some of the kit manufacturers could do for you I know AK & Dax used to do it. This will effect the offset of the rear wheels that you will need. We also fitted a smaller servo than the Jag one as it was way to big in our opinion the replacement was half the size and worked perfectly well. Good luck with your build.

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 10:48 AM
When we built my mates car we didn't fit the trailing arms we just fitted bracing bars triangulating both the wishbones and then fitted one spring and shocker per-side. At this stage it is worth considering if you want dished rear wheels as if you do you will need to have the rear suspension shortened which some of the kit manufacturers could do for you I know AK & Dax used to do it. This will effect the offset of the rear wheels that you will need. We also fitted a smaller servo than the Jag one as it was way to big in our opinion the replacement was half the size and worked perfectly well. Good luck with your build.

Thanks Tinka

I did wonder about the trailing arms. I think the Diff is solid mounted?
I will probably keep the rear suspension standard
Can you recall what servo your mate used?

TINKA
06-11-17, 12:13 PM
Thanks Tinka

I did wonder about the trailing arms. I think the Diff is solid mounted?
I will probably keep the rear suspension standard
Can you recall what servo your mate used?

From memory it was from a Mazda 323 although I can't remember what age it was.

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 12:33 PM
From memory it was from a Mazda 323 although I can't remember what age it was.

Thanks

I was thinking of using an MX5 one (which is probably the same as what was used in a 323).

My logic being that the MX5 is probably of a similar weight to the completed kit

TINKA
06-11-17, 12:41 PM
Thanks

I was thinking of using an MX5 one (which is probably the same as what was used in a 323).

My logic being that the MX5 is probably of a similar weight to the completed kit

That's what we thought that the Jag one is for a car twice the weight and as it's so big we didn't want to fit it. The brakes on his car when finished were really good.

String
06-11-17, 12:44 PM
Best of luck with this build, it's going to be great seeing it start coming together. From humble beginnings...

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 12:52 PM
That's what we thought that the Jag one is for a car twice the weight and as it's so big we didn't want to fit it. The brakes on his car when finished were really good.

I assume he kept the Jag calipers?

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 12:52 PM
Best of luck with this build, it's going to be great seeing it start coming together. From humble beginnings...

Thanks. I think the fibreglass work will be the most challenging part!

TINKA
06-11-17, 01:04 PM
I assume he kept the Jag calipers?

Yes the only thing's he changed was the servo and master cylinder.

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 01:19 PM
Yes the only thing's he changed was the servo and master cylinder.

Great, thanks for the information

I see from your signature you are running Megasquirt with Edis 8. This is my current thinking for the RV8 engine

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 01:51 PM
I also have the following items - do these get used or are they replaced with substitute parts?

Steering Rack
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35276&stc=1

Steering column, switch stalks etc
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35275&stc=1



Some good feedback/info so far, thanks

Can anyone shed any light on the steering rack/column?

TINKA
06-11-17, 02:02 PM
I can only tell you what my mate used which was a Sierra column and Escort MK2 steering rack.

Yes been using Mega Squirt for a few years, had a few issues with the original set up MS1 but since upgrading to MS2 it is superb.

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 02:12 PM
I can only tell you what my mate used which was a Sierra column and Escort MK2 steering rack.

Yes been using Mega Squirt for a few years, had a few issues with the original set up MS1 but since upgrading to MS2 it is superb.

Thanks - he did not go for PAS then. Any reason you know?

I have a Megasquirt in my Westfield, they are good bits of kit

TINKA
06-11-17, 02:35 PM
Thanks - he did not go for PAS then. Any reason you know?

I have a Megasquirt in my Westfield, they are good bits of kit

To be honest the steering was so good (after he had it professionally setup) it would of been a waste of money to fit power steering, but if we had then we would of fitted electric system from a Corsa.

Happy Jim
06-11-17, 05:19 PM
Remember that you will need to show a collapsible column for IVA

KugaWestie
06-11-17, 08:12 PM
Remember that you will need to show a collapsible column for IVA

Yep thanks, I know about the collapsible requirements for IVA

What is a common column that gets used on new builds?

String
06-11-17, 10:31 PM
Ford Sierra on Dax variants - non PAS.

kdavies3
07-11-17, 07:10 AM
Depending on the steering shaft angles you can often get away with the combination of knuckle joints that would deflect and a collapsible wheel boss.
BTW the Corsa B EPAS works well in many applications.

KugaWestie
07-11-17, 07:13 AM
Depending on the steering shaft angles you can often get away with the combination of knuckle joints that would deflect and a collapsible wheel boss.
BTW the Corsa B EPAS works well in many applications.

Thanks - can you shed any light on what is needed for the Corsa B EPAS?

kdavies3
07-11-17, 07:16 AM
Just replied on your other thread.

KugaWestie
07-11-17, 07:46 AM
Thanks

So basically a complete column like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CORSA-C-02-06-FIXED-EPAS-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-COLUMN-PUMP-ECU-KEY/232528542884?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

And a gizmo to trick the ECU like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsa-B-C-Kit-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-With-ECU-plug-EPAS/142463717230?hash=item212b7fcf6e:g:i2MAAOSwxGRZgYF b

Is that right?

kdavies3
07-11-17, 08:02 AM
Basically yes and yes.
Except the one you listed is a Corsa C not B column, similar but not quite the same.
As you're probably going to have to make your own brackets it probably wouldn't matter.
My controller is an automatic one which senses the load rather than having a twiddle pot.
Try and get one that comes with the harness plugs too if you can.

TINKA
07-11-17, 08:19 AM
Thanks

So basically a complete column like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CORSA-C-02-06-FIXED-EPAS-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-COLUMN-PUMP-ECU-KEY/232528542884?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

And a gizmo to trick the ECU like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsa-B-C-Kit-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-With-ECU-plug-EPAS/142463717230?hash=item212b7fcf6e:g:i2MAAOSwxGRZgYF b

Is that right?

If you are going to run megasquirt then they have a module which will controll the power steering automatically linked to the speed you are traveling.Big Tony fitted this system successfully with his mega system.

tonym
07-11-17, 09:20 AM
Not exactly true Martin, I did have an auto controller for my pas but it wasn't linked to the mega squirt in any way except that it was developed by extraefi who build and sell mega squirts :-)

corn plaster
07-11-17, 10:20 AM
You also need the lower shaft with the U/Js. Dax modified the lower shaft for me.


Andy

Happy Jim
07-11-17, 04:50 PM
Drop me a pm with your mail addy and I’ll send you over a write up on how to dismantle and control a Corsa C column.

Rgds

Jim

KugaWestie
08-11-17, 07:24 AM
Thanks for the Information Jim, very useful

KugaWestie
10-11-17, 08:52 AM
Picked up some second hand proper leather seats yesterday to help with mocking up. I may well refurbish them, undecided yet though!

KugaWestie
10-11-17, 08:54 AM
Fuel injection plenum, manifold, injectors, sensors, loom etc arrived today as well. I plan on running the engine on a Megasquirt or similar ECU and EDIS
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35285&stc=1

tonym
10-11-17, 10:39 AM
I have an edis 8 unit and twin coil packs for sale if you're interested?

KugaWestie
10-11-17, 10:42 AM
I have an edis 8 unit and twin coil packs for sale if you're interested?

Yep - pm sent

KugaWestie
27-11-17, 04:21 PM
No work on the car yet, but have continued to gather a few parts.

Steering rack
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35311&stc=1

Edis System and Coil Packs
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35313&stc=1

Clutch Slave Cylinder
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35314&stc=1

Brake Servo and Master Cylinder from a 1.8 MX5
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35315&stc=1

KugaWestie
27-11-17, 04:22 PM
I did get the Jag column out and clean it up. I then cut off the ignition barrel as I plan to have a keyless system for the car
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35312&stc=1

KugaWestie
27-11-17, 04:26 PM
The main reason there is not much progress on the car is I have decided to build a garage behind my existing garage in the rear garden (staying within permitted development planning rules), so I have been busy sorting that out. The existing rear wall of the garage will be removed and have a roller shutter door fitted. So it will effectively be a double length arrangement but with a gap between the two to stay on the right side of planning laws.
The base is down and I have run a course of bricks around to act as a plinth wall. I have most of the materials in stock ready to build it, so hoping for some good weather this weekend.
Once this is built I can get the chassis back to mine and start building the car.
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35316&stc=1

kdavies3
28-11-17, 07:18 AM
If you have removed the key and column lock you will now need an immobiliser for IVA.

Bumped into a chap on Sunday who's been building his Viper for ages, failed 3 IVA's so far now just down to requiring extra bracing on his seat belt mountings.
just something to be aware of.
Sadly some of these things are subjective with different examiners.

KugaWestie
28-11-17, 08:36 AM
Yep, well aware of the immobiliser requirement, and after chatting with Bob Busbridge a few weeks ago also knew about the seat belt bracing. Thanks for the heads up though.

Do you know what else the chap failed on?

kdavies3
28-11-17, 08:51 AM
I believe it was a list of about 27 items originally, that's been whittled down now to just the belt bracing.
I imagine it was just basic IVA stuff. Like radius issues, clipping etc.
I'm sure he's be interesting to know how to fix his belt bracing issues.
Any chance you could detail Bob's recommendations?

KugaWestie
28-11-17, 12:18 PM
I believe it was a list of about 27 items originally, that's been whittled down now to just the belt bracing.
I imagine it was just basic IVA stuff. Like radius issues, clipping etc.
I'm sure he's be interesting to know how to fix his belt bracing issues.
Any chance you could detail Bob's recommendations?

I have not looked at the chassis in detail yet after speaking to Bob to consider what he said to me, but the gist of it is that the testers raise a concern that the "goalpost frame" behind the seats which hold the top mounts could buckle forwards in the event of a severe impact.
The solution Bob suggested is to weld a couple of pieces of box section from the top of the frame forwards into the cockpit area connecting to the tubes running along the top of the tunnel to brace it.

KugaWestie
20-12-17, 07:53 AM
The new garage has been progressing. I am hoping to have it complete and get the kit home over Xmas

KugaWestie
20-12-17, 07:54 AM
A couple more

Happy Jim
21-12-17, 07:53 AM
4 weeks to build the garage.....that sets the pace well, how long are you planning for the build on the Cob?

Jim

Outcast
21-12-17, 11:03 AM
Did you see the engine bay photo you asked for in the LeMans Viper thread?
Cheers..Nige

KugaWestie
21-12-17, 08:34 PM
4 weeks to build the garage.....that sets the pace well, how long are you planning for the build on the Cob?

Jim

Thanks, almost there now, then the kit can come home and I can get started.

I built my Westfield in 159 calendar days, but I think this one will take a lot longer. No real time plan to be honest, it will take as long as it takes. That said I do get quite obsessed once I get started :)

KugaWestie
21-12-17, 08:35 PM
Did you see the engine bay photo you asked for in the LeMans Viper thread?
Cheers..Nige

Yes, thanks Nigel

KugaWestie
02-01-18, 01:38 PM
Over the festive break I managed to get the new garage finished as well as removing the wall from the rear of the existing garage and fitting a roller shutter.

I went and collected the chassis and put it in its new home.

So now the work on building the car can commence!

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35396&stc=1http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35397&stc=1http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35398&stc=1

KugaWestie
03-01-18, 09:08 PM
I have started to sort through what donor suspension/driveline/steering parts I have got, and need to obtain some parts.

I am having difficulty understanding what parts I have, what is missing and what goes where, as I did not dismantle the donor XJS. Whoever did do the strip down did a terrible job of keeping parts together, labelling, bagging etc!

Does anyone have or know where I can find some schematic drawings with part numbers on the drawings?

Happy Jim
03-01-18, 11:13 PM
SNG Barratt do a downloadable parts catalogue & price list (with exploded diagrams)

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/Downloads


Rgds

Jim

KugaWestie
04-01-18, 06:26 AM
SNG Barratt do a downloadable parts catalogue & price list (with exploded diagrams)

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/Downloads


Rgds

Jim

Perfect, thank you

String
05-01-18, 01:21 PM
I had the same issue, but made it to the other end with patience and careful study of those diagrams etc. One thing worth noting is the front lower wishbones as they are “handed”, and which way around they go relates to which upper wishbones you have. Important to get this correct! HTH a bit.

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 01:26 PM
I had the same issue, but made it to the other end with patience and careful study of those diagrams etc. One thing worth noting is the front lower wishbones as they are “handed”, and which way around they go relates to which upper wishbones you have. Important to get this correct! HTH a bit.

Thanks for the tip.

I have printed off the exploded views on A2 paper so they are nice an clear/readable. Just looking at them without even having the parts in front of me has helped.

I am hoping to have a list of items that are needed in the next few days so I can get them ordered up

String
05-01-18, 01:44 PM
I found it difficult to tell this “handing” element from diagrams I used so the upper wishbone relationship helped a lot. You get “straight” types (these are the type I have) and “cranked”. Let me know if you get stuck and I’ll try and help.

The rear axle looks complicated at first, but it’ll come together just fine with some patience. If like the Dax, you’ll want to set rear toe before mounting the whole lot to the chassis. ;)

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 01:50 PM
I found it difficult to tell this “handing” element from diagrams I used so the upper wishbone relationship helped a lot. You get “straight” types (these are the type I have) and “cranked”. Let me know if you get stuck and I’ll try and help.

The rear axle looks complicated at first, but it’ll come together just fine with some patience. If like the Dax, you’ll want to set rear toe before mounting the whole lot to the chassis. ;)

Ok thanks, I will shout if I am still confused :confused:

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 01:51 PM
When I looked at the drive shafts, I noticed that one of the hub ends had a damaged thread, whoever dismantled the donor managed to make a mess of it
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35400&stc=1

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 01:53 PM
So I set about sorting it out. An hour of patience with a needle file sorted it. Then a bit of persuasion with an impact wrench and all was well again (yes I know I need a washer in there)

String
05-01-18, 01:58 PM
Just checked on mine after seeing your first page here - you have the straight upper arms like myself. Therefore, lower wishbone upright mounting tang (best i can think of!) points to the front of the car. Enjoy!

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 02:30 PM
Just checked on mine after seeing your first page here - you have the straight upper arms like myself. Therefore, lower wishbone upright mounting tang (best i can think of!) points to the front of the car. Enjoy!

Thanks

So looking at the attached photo, the front of the car would be the top of the photo right?
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35402&stc=1

String
05-01-18, 02:44 PM
Think photo orientation on my computer is different. The front of the car is the side where all your other precision parts lie - calipers, front upper WBs, front hubs....shopping basket....:)

KugaWestie
05-01-18, 02:52 PM
Think photo orientation on my computer is different. The front of the car is the side where all your other precision parts lie - calipers, front upper WBs, front hubs....shopping basket....:)
Yep ok, thanks

KugaWestie
06-01-18, 06:49 PM
I started to work on the suspension today and have run into a problem. The new ball joint that the previous owner had bought for the lower front wishbone will not go into the stub axle carrier

It looks like the XJS was originally fitted with the earlier type of ball joint that could be disassembled, which has now been replaced with a fully prebuilt component.

I think the only way the new ball joint will fit is to remove what I think is a "sleeve" that you can see in the attached photo. Is that correct?

Murray
06-01-18, 07:36 PM
Yes, that is correct.
I have not long done mine and had the old grease type which I replaced with the newer style.
This chap did a video on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ_wFVrNDLc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ_wFVrNDLc)
from about minute 7 is the bit you want.

Hope it helps.

String
06-01-18, 07:40 PM
+1

The sng Barrett catalogue states that the old ball joints can be replaced with the sealed for life units, but ‘it will be necessary to remove the ball pin spigot to facilitate fitment’. From the exploded diagrams, that part looks to be the ball pin spigot.

KugaWestie
06-01-18, 07:49 PM
Yes, that is correct.
I have not long done mine and had the old grease type which I replaced with the newer style.
This chap did a video on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ_wFVrNDLc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ_wFVrNDLc)
from about minute 7 is the bit you want.

Hope it helps.

Thanks, glad I am thinking correctly!

Which way do you knock it out? Do you hit it from the bottom or from the top of the carrier?

KugaWestie
06-01-18, 08:03 PM
Done it.

For future reference, you knock it out from the inside towards the bottom

Murray
06-01-18, 10:34 PM
Sorry, should of said before, only just got back to this.
You have it sorted anyway, well done.

KugaWestie
08-01-18, 10:40 AM
I am starting to think about brake and fuel lines and where to run them.

I was planning on running the fuel lines and rear brake line through the bottom of the transmission tunnel, leaving the top of the tunnel free for the rear wiring loom.

Is this how other cars have been done?

KugaWestie
09-01-18, 03:39 PM
I am starting to think about brake and fuel lines and where to run them.

I was planning on running the fuel lines and rear brake line through the bottom of the transmission tunnel, leaving the top of the tunnel free for the rear wiring loom.

Is this how other cars have been done?

Anyone?

Also I have had a quick look at the front dampers and springs, which were separate when I collected the kit, and I now understand why!
The springs are 9" x 450lb. When I fully extend the damper to put the spring on, either the spring is too long or the damper is too short!
Is this a know problem on the Classic Replica kit? Or does the spring need to be compressed to fit it, as in it has some pretension on the damper when the car is fully built?
Is the spring too long?
Is the damper too short?
Questions questions :rolleyes:

kdavies3
09-01-18, 03:50 PM
It wouldn't be the first time I've had to compress a coil spring to get it on the damper.
I assume you have adjustable platform dampers?
I wouldn't expect too much tension when fully adjusted on the long end.

KugaWestie
09-01-18, 03:58 PM
It wouldn't be the first time I've had to compress a coil spring to get it on the damper.
I assume you have adjustable platform dampers?
I wouldn't expect too much tension when fully adjusted on the long end.

Yes the dampers are adjustable platform using a C spanner
Thanks, I just need to work out how to compress the spring now!

kdavies3
10-01-18, 07:16 AM
Something like these is what you need probably.
The smaller diameter of the springs makes life awkward with the larger hook type compressors.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VidaXL-210084-Spring-Compressors-Set/dp/B00KCLV6H8/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1515568468&sr=8-47&keywords=spring+compressors

KugaWestie
10-01-18, 06:16 PM
Something like these is what you need probably.
The smaller diameter of the springs makes life awkward with the larger hook type compressors.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VidaXL-210084-Spring-Compressors-Set/dp/B00KCLV6H8/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1515568468&sr=8-47&keywords=spring+compressors

Thanks. I will try something else first before investing

KugaWestie
10-01-18, 06:18 PM
Can anyone post a photo of the front suspension assembled on a Classic Replicas/Cobretti car please?

I would like to see how the front damper assembly fits to/with the lower wishbone

KugaWestie
11-01-18, 09:19 PM
I removed the old universal joints from the half shafts tonight as the seals were shot to bits

https://imgur.com/gallery/FIuN8

KugaWestie
11-01-18, 09:42 PM
https://i.imgur.com/GdbWFr4.jpg

KugaWestie
11-01-18, 09:44 PM
Just getting the hang of Imgur!

I also pressed in my new lower wishbone bushes
https://i.imgur.com/535j8rW.jpg

KugaWestie
13-01-18, 05:08 PM
Can anyone post a photo of the front suspension assembled on a Classic Replicas/Cobretti car please?

I would like to see how the front damper assembly fits to/with the lower wishbone

Anyone please?

TINKA
15-01-18, 08:11 AM
On the lower wishbone the damper fits to a plate which bolts to the underside of the wishbone. The same as AK and possibly others do it. I have no pictures to show you this BUT on my mates car we had to remake the plates when the ones supplied bent as the metal was too this and weak. I can post some pictures of mine if you like as it is the same except the ones on my mates viper were at a slight angle for anti-dive ?

KugaWestie
15-01-18, 03:40 PM
On the lower wishbone the damper fits to a plate which bolts to the underside of the wishbone. The same as AK and possibly others do it. I have no pictures to show you this BUT on my mates car we had to remake the plates when the ones supplied bent as the metal was too this and weak. I can post some pictures of mine if you like as it is the same except the ones on my mates viper were at a slight angle for anti-dive ?

Thanks
That helps as I now know I have got the lower brackets for the dampers. I will also look at reinforcing them before fitting them

KugaWestie
16-01-18, 09:18 PM
It is time to start painting, so some preparation work tonight ready for POR15

https://i.imgur.com/uUqpBVZ.jpg

Dek
17-01-18, 05:28 PM
3542735428
Anyone please?

Sorry only just seen this. Hope this helps.

KugaWestie
17-01-18, 06:31 PM
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35427&stc=1http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35428&stc=1

Sorry only just seen this. Hope this helps.

Lovely, thanks

KugaWestie
18-01-18, 09:30 PM
The front suspension components have now had 2 coats of POR15
https://i.imgur.com/WBBe1Qv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TntadYk.jpg

After the second coat tonight which did not take long, I started to re-assemble the half shafts with the new UJ's I had bought
https://i.imgur.com/GdABWRP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CfCCVCj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FpJllNT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZyalKi8.jpg

KugaWestie
20-01-18, 08:27 PM
Bit more painting done today - front uprights and hubs first coat
https://i.imgur.com/eSdTZOa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mMTSdI3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vMeC8i8.jpg

KugaWestie
25-01-18, 09:29 PM
Last nights challenge was to remove the hub from the half shaft so I can renew the bearings. One shaft/hub had already been separated by whoever broke the donor car, so just one to do for me.
On with the hub puller
http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2018_01/IMG_1333.thumb.JPG.4b92faec4fc84e07701f06dee6ba9db 8.JPG (http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2018_01/IMG_1333.JPG.503496cfbc83b1eff86a5153ff7ce1dd.JPG)

A big heave on the hub puller lever did not budge anything.
So I removed the lever, fetched the breaker bar and a suitable socket and tried again - No luck. It simply would not budge.
So the next port of call was the Impact Wrench. 450Nm of torque and it moved about 3mm http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/uploads/emoticons/default_08-angry.gif
Over the weekend I had sprayed a load of penetrating oil around the hub and half shaft, So I was pretty surprised that it would not budge. I decided to spray it all again with a cocktail of penetrating oil and WD40. I then wound in the hub puller again with the Impact wrench, and whilst keeping the trigger pulled I whacked the hub a few times around the perimter to try and shock it. Still no joy.
So I walked away for 10 minutes and had a cup of tea thinking I am probably beaten here.
After a while I returned and after 3 or 4 spirited goes with the shock treatment described above, I finally broke the joint
http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2018_01/IMG_1336.thumb.JPG.dd8b3b7809ad2270fee4a79436a43a8 a.JPG (http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2018_01/IMG_1336.JPG.e2b4bcabb830e11ac574e1ffad98a2e9.JPG)
All in all it took me nearly 2 hours to do!!

KugaWestie
25-01-18, 09:33 PM
The next challenge was to remove the bearing race that was stuck on the hub

Sometimes it is all about having the right tools
https://i.imgur.com/ifVT0cc.jpg

It came off easily

KugaWestie
25-01-18, 09:37 PM
Earlier in the thread I posted that I could not get the front springs onto the dampers as they needed to be compressed to get them on.

Fortunately the MD of SPAX owns a Westfield and is a member of the Westfield Club, so I asked for his help and he obliged.
https://i.imgur.com/X4zIEeK.jpg

KugaWestie
25-01-18, 09:38 PM
Final update for tonight is a bit more POR15 work
https://i.imgur.com/Q1N9jca.jpg

KugaWestie
30-01-18, 09:38 PM
I completed the last of the current batch of POR15 work tonight
https://i.imgur.com/0Y6BEZm.jpg

It will soon be time to start building!

String
30-01-18, 10:24 PM
Coming on and satisfying to start bolting those reconditioned parts to the chassis. Did you need to do much with the chassis to prep it, or was it still in good fettle?

KugaWestie
31-01-18, 06:27 AM
Coming on and satisfying to start bolting those reconditioned parts to the chassis. Did you need to do much with the chassis to prep it, or was it still in good fettle?

Thanks.

The chassis is pretty tidy but I am going to give is a blow over with some Simoniz Tough Coat paint before starting to assemble parts on it.

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:00 PM
A few days ago I got my rebuilt brake calipers back, so they are as good as new now
https://i.imgur.com/AtRm5bT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kV8tlHw.jpg

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:02 PM
The chassis has had a final spray over with Simoniz Tough Paint, and last weekend I took it off the dolly and turned it onto its side
https://i.imgur.com/V95szj8.jpg

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:05 PM
The front uprights have been rebuilt now
https://i.imgur.com/Fu4uhN6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eOgrLod.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EL0O4IP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/naqydYn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6XSiE6C.jpg

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:07 PM
Fuel lines fitted to the chassis
https://i.imgur.com/whuhki5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3rI9cmb.jpg

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:08 PM
Brake servo/master cylinder and clutch master cylinder fitted
https://i.imgur.com/TKt4ody.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gjYRl3j.jpg

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:14 PM
Everything had been stripped down on the Jag suspension components by the chap I bought the kit off.

I neeed to rebuild the rear suspension with new bearings etc. This is proving to be a struggle as I did not take them apart so have nothing to draw on memory wise.

First task is the Hub Carriers, I have fitted the new bearing races
https://i.imgur.com/6GFvNqn.jpg


But now need to assemble the bearings with various washers, fibre washers, spacers etc. I have looked at various exploded drawings/views, but am still struggling to identify exactly which parts go where, or to put it another way an order of assembly. This is the hub carrier rebuild kit, but I cant work it out. Can anyone help with this?
https://i.imgur.com/o0i4GZu.jpg

Dek
10-02-18, 07:17 PM
Looking good. What was servo and master cylinder off?
Dek

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:19 PM
Looking good. What were they off?
Dek

Thanks

What were what off?

Dek
10-02-18, 07:24 PM
Thanks

What were what off?

Sorry you posted again whilst I was posting a reply so edited to make clear.
Dek

KugaWestie
10-02-18, 07:27 PM
Looking good. What was servo and master cylinder off?
Dek

Thanks

The brake servo/master cylinder is from a Mk1 1.8 MX5

String
10-02-18, 11:33 PM
Looking good and progress being made. The following site was helpful re. the rebuild of my hubs etc.

http://dazecars.com/dazed/JaguarIRS4.html

Also, the Jag service manual was invaluable. On the Dax chassis, there is a danger of the rear hub carriers bottoming out against the chassis on full droop. Removal (cutting) of “eye brow” shaped section on the inboard top edge of the carriers was advised. Might not be an issue for you with your chassis, but may be worth checking.

Did you go with brand new front stub axles?

Ian C
11-02-18, 10:38 AM
Fuel lines fitted to the chassis




Hi,

Kind of hope I am wrong but shouldn't the nuts have been on the brake lines before they were flared? The build is looking really good, look forward to seeing it evolve,

Regards,
Ian

seph
11-02-18, 11:28 AM
Hi,

Kind of hope I am wrong but shouldn't the nuts have been on the brake lines before they were flared? The build is looking really good, look forward to seeing it evolve,

Regards,
Ian

Yep, he has certainly forgot to put the nuts on before flaring the pipes

Paul

tonym
11-02-18, 01:06 PM
Nuts?? On fuel lines?? Are you mad???

seph
11-02-18, 01:15 PM
Nuts?? On fuel lines?? Are you mad???

Quite correct Tony, I assumed they were the brake lines. My apologies on being a numpty

Paul

Ian C
11-02-18, 01:25 PM
Nuts?? On fuel lines?? Are you mad???


Whoops, I should pay more attention and not jump to conclusions.

Apologies to builder for doubting your competence, it was probably because I managed to "forget" the nuts (when doing brake lines obviously) a number of times.

Regards,
Ian

KugaWestie
11-02-18, 01:31 PM
Nuts?? On fuel lines?? Are you mad???

Exactly, they are fuel lines, not brake lines

KugaWestie
11-02-18, 01:35 PM
Looking good and progress being made. The following site was helpful re. the rebuild of my hubs etc.

http://dazecars.com/dazed/JaguarIRS4.html

Also, the Jag service manual was invaluable. On the Dax chassis, there is a danger of the rear hub carriers bottoming out against the chassis on full droop. Removal (cutting) of “eye brow” shaped section on the inboard top edge of the carriers was advised. Might not be an issue for you with your chassis, but may be worth checking.

Did you go with brand new front stub axles?

Thanks

I reused the stub axles, hopefully they are ok, they looked to be in good condition.

The dazecars is helpful, but I still need to try and work out what part goes where to rebuild the hub carrier

String
11-02-18, 02:14 PM
The Jag Service manual helped a great deal, but having had a quick look, it’s quite a pricey item at the moment. Haynes manuals coming in £13 so could be worth a look? I also stumbled across this and found it interesting and helpful - based on real world experience:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf

Some really good potential future upgrades/ tweaks to the hubs and carriers, or you could incorporate them as part of your build up now :) If you get stuck with these hubs I can offer some, albeit limited, guidance. HTH

KugaWestie
11-02-18, 08:42 PM
The Jag Service manual helped a great deal, but having had a quick look, it’s quite a pricey item at the moment. Haynes manuals coming in £13 so could be worth a look? I also stumbled across this and found it interesting and helpful - based on real world experience:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf

Some really good potential future upgrades/ tweaks to the hubs and carriers, or you could incorporate them as part of your build up now :) If you get stuck with these hubs I can offer some, albeit limited, guidance. HTH

Thanks

I have got a Haynes manual and it does not go into enough detail on the hub carriers unfortunately.

Thanks for the link to the to the book, with over 700 pages I need two weeks on a beach to read it lol!!

KugaWestie
11-02-18, 08:52 PM
I started having a look at the brake lines today.

The build manual from Classic Replicas is pretty useless on this subject, so I am working pretty much under initiative. If anyone thinks there may be a clash with anything or it does not look ok please shout!

Brake switch into tee piece, and then fitted on the bottom of the chassis
https://i.imgur.com/KS0inWN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eHBn1TP.jpg

I plan to run a single pipe to a central tee piece at the front of the engine bay, then individual pipes to each front wheel from there.
https://i.imgur.com/hg24Nxd.jpg

Likewise a single pipe from the brake switch tee piece into the rear of the car again splitting off to each wheel from another tee piece offset to one side of the tunnel
https://i.imgur.com/mwHZ67b.jpg

With all the tee pieces fitted, I made up a brake line to connect the brake switch tee through the tunnel to the rear tee
https://i.imgur.com/5wHcWwy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eluHeQN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yFdVzwh.jpg

String
11-02-18, 10:17 PM
Thanks

I have got a Haynes manual and it does not go into enough detail on the hub carriers unfortunately.

Thanks for the link to the to the book, with over 700 pages I need two weeks on a beach to read it lol!!

Ha! Yeah, most of it is relevant to XJS owners only. But around 10% is relevant to XJ Jag based cobs; suspension & diff in the main - some good stuff. From about page 400 is the bit you need re. the hubs :)

KugaWestie
11-02-18, 10:21 PM
Ha! Yeah, most of it is relevant to XJS owners only. But around 10% is relevant to XJ Jag based cobs; suspension & diff in the main - some good stuff. From about page 400 is the bit you need re. the hubs :)

Cheers, I will have a bit of a read and see if it helps me

KugaWestie
12-02-18, 10:00 PM
It looks like my questions/uncertainty have been answered

This is an excellent write up

https://jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10504

String
13-02-18, 09:01 AM
It looks like my questions/uncertainty have been answered

This is an excellent write up

https://jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10504


Glad you’ve sussed it out. It’ll be good to see that rolling chassis completed soon.....engine next, or body on to chassis?

KugaWestie
13-02-18, 02:24 PM
Glad you’ve sussed it out. It’ll be good to see that rolling chassis completed soon.....engine next, or body on to chassis?

Rolling chassis and then onto the engine/box is the plan

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 12:36 PM
I have been starting to think about Pedals it looks like I will need top mounted.

Anyone got any snippets of wisdom for me?

Have people made their own, or bought and adapted?

If bought, what did you buy?

TINKA
19-02-18, 01:48 PM
My friend did indeed make his pedals top mounted. I think from memory it was 4 sections of 3/4" box mounted to s frame with a hole all the way through. The pedals just hung from this opperating the clutch and brake master cylinders a couple of inches below the piviot point. This is a vastly simplified description but hopefully you get the idea.

kdavies3
19-02-18, 02:37 PM
I might have top hung setup that I didn't use on my Contemporary (I went down the original under floor style route instead).
I'll check my boxes, can't see why you couldn't use it in another kit.

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 02:42 PM
Thanks Tinka

Kev, let me know if you have anything please

Dek
19-02-18, 09:14 PM
If you can wait until the weekend I’ll scamper down the footwell with a camera. Do you have a copy of the very rudimentary build manual?
Dek

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 09:15 PM
One step forward and one back!!


I broke out the Tiger Seal and run some beads around all of the floor pan, tunnel and bulkhead areas, so hopefully the chassis is nice and waterproof now
https://i.imgur.com/h7JWs00.jpg

After letting that go off for a couple of hours I then turned the chassis back over with a view to starting to build up the suspension/running gear. I decided to start with the front. After 15 minutes of searching I found the lower fulcrum pins, only to notice that one of them had been totally mullered on the threaded end by the guy who dismantled the XJS!!! He obviously did not understand the principle of putting the nut back on and hitting the nut to move a shaft, instead choosing to hammer the end of a threaded shaft!

After a good hour of trying to repair the thread I have given it up as a bad job and ordered a pair of new fulcrum pins

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 09:18 PM
Whilst waiting for the new fulcrum pins to arrive, I had a quick look at the upper front wishbones and how they mount to the chassis.

I dug out the bolts and the special “D” washers. The bolts are knackered so I have ordered some new ones.

I did clean up the D washers though, before and after below
https://i.imgur.com/LzvBHWn.jpg

Then I loosely hung on the top and bottom wishbones on one side
https://i.imgur.com/TIhh6eL.jpg

Waiting for the postman now to complete the front corners

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 09:20 PM
If you can wait until the weekend I’ll scamper down the footwell with a camera. Do you have a copy of the very rudimentary build manual?
Dek

Dek

That would be very helpful if you could.

I do have a copy of the manual, but the images are so poor it must be about a 10th generation photocopy!!

427jlc
19-02-18, 09:33 PM
i think the D washers should have the longest edge vertically mounted facing the bush, there should be a large chrome washer that the D washers longest edge sits against then the bush should fit up to the washer, someone may have a pic, Lee

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 09:44 PM
i think the D washers should have the longest edge vertically mounted facing the bush, there should be a large chrome washer that the D washers longest edge sits against then the bush should fit up to the washer, someone may have a pic, Lee

Thanks Lee, that makes sense.
I have been using the SNG Barratt exploded views for assembly help, and there is no washer shown there which is why I don't have one on there.
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families/XJS/7/37/14714/15415/15414/1/10/1/viewassembly/7412/:WISHBONE%20AND%20BALLJOINT-UPPER
Anyone able to confirm?

String
19-02-18, 10:03 PM
Slip flex Bush washers here I think is what you are referring to:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families/XJS/7/37/14714/15415/15414/1/10/1/viewassembly/7412/:WISHBONE%20AND%20BALLJOINT-UPPER

KugaWestie
19-02-18, 10:10 PM
Slip flex Bush washers here I think is what you are referring to:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families/XJS/7/37/14714/15415/15414/1/10/1/viewassembly/7412/:WISHBONE%20AND%20BALLJOINT-UPPER

Yes we are talking about the same thing. Do they go both sides of the Slip flex bush? It is only shown on outside on SNG Barrett detail?

String
19-02-18, 10:17 PM
They were labelled inner and outer on the schematic I saw; I can’t get the bloomin’ link I just posted to work now! I got four for each side in a rebuild kit, so reasoned they sandwiched each bush. Like you, I had to work from a box full of bits...

KugaWestie
20-02-18, 02:17 PM
So back to the lower front wishbones. The new fulcrum pins and washers arrived today, and I just so happen to be at home.

I am a little confused though, so can someone provide some clarity? String?

I have two washers that go over the main fulcrum pin and one washer that only goes over the thinner threaded section. The exploded views on SNG Barratt only show 2 washers, not 3?
https://i.imgur.com/rpcWbXT.jpg

So I assumed the washers would go like this, with the wishbone fitting between the largest gap?
https://i.imgur.com/5EfXLvv.jpg

So like this on the chassis?
https://i.imgur.com/avfKozQ.jpg

If that is correct for the washers, I cannot get the castle nut on far enough to fit the split pin. So either three washers is too many, or I need to trim the bushes down? Or trim the tube on the chassis down?

Any guidance on what is correct guys?

kdavies3
20-02-18, 02:30 PM
Don't the large washers go in between the inside of the bush and the tube on the chassis?
Rather than on the outside where you have them?

KugaWestie
20-02-18, 02:38 PM
Don't the large washers go in between the inside of the bush and the tube on the chassis?
Rather than on the outside where you have them?

Not according to this?
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families/XJS/7/37/14714/15415/15413/1/10/1/viewassembly/7411/:WISHBONE%20AND%20BALLJOINT-LOWER

What you are saying does make sense though, I just want to be sure before final fitting/torqueing up

String
20-02-18, 02:54 PM
Hi. I agree with Kev; so from fulcrum pin head it would be: head, bush, washer, chassis tube, washer, bush, washer, nut. Same idea as the front uppers; bushes sandwiched between two large washers. I don't think the new SNG Barratt schematics are as good as their old ones, IMHO.

I've left all nuts/ bolts on these bush housings finger tight, so as not to distort he bushes until the vehicle is under full load. Then torque to full value, way later in the build. HTH

Tris

KugaWestie
20-02-18, 05:41 PM
Thanks fellas

This looks better
https://i.imgur.com/Bz0mRrM.jpg

The cable tie is holding the split pin for when final torqueing gets done (in case you wondered why it was there!)

kdavies3
21-02-18, 07:17 AM
Yup! that's better. :D

KugaWestie
21-02-18, 07:50 AM
Yup! that's better. :D

Yep.

Have you rummaged your boxes yet?

kdavies3
21-02-18, 08:12 AM
Sorry kuga, no not yet.
Hopefully I didn't throw it when I had a massive clear out last year.

aaronjb
21-02-18, 09:32 AM
Don't worry, we believe you about the cable tie...
https://thumb.ibb.co/gB3Ofx/image.png (https://ibb.co/gB3Ofx)

String
21-02-18, 01:22 PM
Much better. Keep going.

I think you can undertake a "blu tack & gaffa tape" equivalent too Aaron...

KugaWestie
21-02-18, 01:37 PM
Don't worry, we believe you about the cable tie...
https://thumb.ibb.co/gB3Ofx/image.png (https://ibb.co/gB3Ofx)


Much better. Keep going.

I think you can undertake a "blu tack & gaffa tape" equivalent too Aaron...

:p

Thanks chaps!

aaronjb
21-02-18, 02:05 PM
I actually saw the cable tie one on the back of an electricians van :lol: Back on topic though - excellent progress! At this rate you'll be done by March..

kdavies3
22-02-18, 11:48 AM
Yep.

Have you rummaged your boxes yet?

Sorry Kuga, I had a rummage last night and as I suspected, it appears that I junked it.
A real shame because I think you could have used it.

dave
22-02-18, 12:11 PM
Lots of work there. Busy, busy, busy.
I have to ask though.... Why have you raised the height of the floor pan under the seat?

KugaWestie
22-02-18, 12:19 PM
Sorry Kuga, I had a rummage last night and as I suspected, it appears that I junked it.
A real shame because I think you could have used it.

:sad::sad:

Thanks for looking though

Out of interest, do you recall where you got it from, what it was, manufacturer etc?

kdavies3
22-02-18, 12:32 PM
It was actually supplied by Burtis who were the manufacturers of the Contemporary kits back then.
I'm sure it was bespoke for the Contemporary.
It fitted into a square hole in the top of the drivers foot box.

aaronjb
22-02-18, 01:27 PM
I have a couple of floor mounted pedal boxes sitting around here.. one two pedal (no throttle) and one three pedal (cable throttle)..

KugaWestie
22-02-18, 02:13 PM
I have a couple of floor mounted pedal boxes sitting around here.. one two pedal (no throttle) and one three pedal (cable throttle)..

Thanks

I need top mounted by the look of things. Got any photos? I am wondering if they could be adapted to suit?

aaronjb
22-02-18, 02:42 PM
One is this one:

http://www.obpltd.com/image/cache/data/victory/OBPVIC25-500x500.jpg


And the other is this one:

http://www.obpltd.com/image/cache/data/PR%20V2/OBP0001PR-500x500.jpg

KugaWestie
22-02-18, 03:31 PM
Looks like they won't be suitable to me?

KugaWestie
22-02-18, 08:11 PM
Front corners assembled. Need to drop the hubs off next to fit the discs. All the bolts have been left loose for now so I can torque them up when the car is up to weight
https://i.imgur.com/j7AJmwf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dxzcu4R.jpg

aaronjb
22-02-18, 08:33 PM
Looks like they won't be suitable to me?

Yep I realised just after I posted the pictures that you've already got the MX5 master cylinder, so you'll need something suitable for that (top hung, single cylinder) rather than a bias box, sorry :)

KugaWestie
22-02-18, 08:46 PM
Yep I realised just after I posted the pictures that you've already got the MX5 master cylinder, so you'll need something suitable for that (top hung, single cylinder) rather than a bias box, sorry :)

No problem. Top hung is the important part, I can always "adjust" a pedal box from dual to single cylinder

TINKA
24-02-18, 12:50 AM
Your front coil overs look like they are at quite an angle at full droop which will only increase when you are at ride height. My mates car had this issue and found it hit the bump stop a lot till he altered it making them more upright. Same problem on the rear on his car.

KugaWestie
24-02-18, 09:06 AM
Your front coil overs look like they are at quite an angle at full droop which will only increase when you are at ride height. My mates car had this issue and found it hit the bump stop a lot till he altered it making them more upright. Same problem on the rear on his car.

Thanks, I will have to see what it's like when it's on the ground and rolling and take it from there

KugaWestie
24-02-18, 05:51 PM
Front discs fitted
https://i.imgur.com/Echg8OG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Bkk2Cf3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dfWbnxZ.jpg

KugaWestie
24-02-18, 06:00 PM
This afternoon I got the diff back in and fitted the wishbones. It was a bit of a battle as I had to grind a bit of weld away on the chassis as the bottom of the diff was catching on it, but I got there in the end

Pressing the needle bearings in
https://i.imgur.com/vdEXcav.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BeRtTW0.jpg

Dirty messy spacers
https://i.imgur.com/97Gb1Ek.jpg

Before and after cleaning with a flap wheel
https://i.imgur.com/YZA60Se.jpg

And two hours of grunting and swearing later
https://i.imgur.com/ohND0U4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9hN0mhR.jpg

I am off to Race Retro tomorrow for a look round, so thats it for this weekend!

drammyboy
24-02-18, 06:47 PM
Some really great close up photos.

Just check that you have fitted the inner pivot spacer tubes.
Those bottom arms are handed.

KugaWestie
24-02-18, 07:07 PM
Some really great close up photos.

Just check that you have fitted the inner pivot spacer tubes.
Those bottom arms are handed.

Thanks.
Yes the spacer tubes are in there, and I hope I have got the hand
ing right?

String
25-02-18, 07:35 AM
Gary, more good progress; you must have spent a fortune on meals out with the missus, or was it an incredible kitchen fit before the cob?! ;)

Seriously, I’m not seeing the inner fulcrum spacer tube and the radius arm mounting points on the LCAs should face toward the front of the car; it’s reasonably clear which arm goes on which side, once you get those mounting points facing forwards. Or maybe that’s irrelevant with your particular kit?

KugaWestie
25-02-18, 08:17 AM
Gary, more good progress; you must have spent a fortune on meals out with the missus, or was it an incredible kitchen fit before the cob?! ;)

Seriously, I’m not seeing the inner fulcrum spacer tube and the radius arm mounting points on the LCAs should face toward the front of the car; it’s reasonably clear which arm goes on which side, once you get those mounting points facing forwards. Or maybe that’s irrelevant with your particular kit?

Lol Tris, the kitchen refit is happening this Easter!!

Thanks for spotting that, I totally forgot those inner spacing tubes :mad:

Looks like I will have to dismantle and reassemble, that's a shame but never mind!

427jlc
25-02-18, 10:17 AM
Make sure the 2 bolts into the diff behind the tubes are tight and lockwired, it's a pain if you forget!!

KugaWestie
25-02-18, 08:02 PM
Make sure the 2 bolts into the diff behind the tubes are tight and lockwired, it's a pain if you forget!!

Yep, thanks for the heads up. They are good

KugaWestie
25-02-18, 08:05 PM
Seriously, I’m not seeing the inner fulcrum spacer tube and the radius arm mounting points on the LCAs should face toward the front of the car; it’s reasonably clear which arm goes on which side, once you get those mounting points facing forwards. Or maybe that’s irrelevant with your particular kit?

I got home from Race Retro late afternoon and the Wife was out, so I seized the opportunity and redone everything. It was a lot quicker second time around as I had a method that I worked out yesterday.

https://i.imgur.com/11IYHcf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vLPj926.jpg

String
25-02-18, 08:20 PM
Nice one, always good to take advantage of those moments :)

KugaWestie
25-02-18, 08:44 PM
Nice one, always good to take advantage of those moments :)

Indeed, no hesitation, straight out into the garage it was :grin:

KugaWestie
26-02-18, 09:02 PM
I started to have a look at the rear discs/calipers tonight. I had 6 shims in my box of bits so cleaned them up and then put three on behind the disc and clamped the disc up temporarily.
Then I bolted the caliper on to see how central the disc sat in the caliper

https://i.imgur.com/tELHUly.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6TKOeYB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4yc3opv.jpg

KugaWestie
27-02-18, 09:09 PM
I measured all the shims tonight for thickness and they are all the same, so I am sticking with the theory of three per side of the rectangular ones.

Now in their correct position
https://i.imgur.com/sA478aJ.jpg

I also have 4 of these, which are a slightly different shape, but I assume they are for the same location?
https://i.imgur.com/Qy9iBzj.jpg

I put the pads into the one rear caliper that is fitted, and I think this is correct for holding the pads in position, the pin being inserted from the centre of the car sliding towards the outside, and then the spring clip fitting between the caliper and pad?
https://i.imgur.com/deAEuyf.jpg

Finally I had a look at the rear shocks, and I have a problem with fitting these. The damper pin is 5/8" diameter, but the damper bush is only 1/2" diameter, so the pin wont pass through the bushes! Has anyone else experienced this? Is the solution to replace the bushes?
https://i.imgur.com/7Vch1wK.jpg

Any help/words of wisdom appreciated please

KugaWestie
27-02-18, 10:02 PM
Or is the solution to the wishbone pins to get the ends of them turned down so they go through the 1/2" diameter bush?

String
27-02-18, 10:57 PM
Hi Gary, the rectangular shims are for setting rear camber, whereas those of a “slightly different shape” are for adjusting rear brake disc centralisation. The former go outboard of the disc as you have them, the latter inboard. If you have an imperial dial gauge or can borrow one, it’s possibly worth checking disc run-out once you have them centralised. My discs didn’t seat cleanly initially, affecting run-out considerably.

Maybe try Simply Bearings or similar for replacement bushes? Hope this is of some help.

What’s your plan with the Rover engine? Is she a runner, or are you going for a rebuild?

KugaWestie
28-02-18, 01:00 PM
Lots of work there. Busy, busy, busy.
I have to ask though.... Why have you raised the height of the floor pan under the seat?

Hi Dave

I have not altered the floor pan?

Happy Jim
28-02-18, 02:43 PM
Hi Dave

I have not altered the floor pan?

Ah, ummmm, right then! Dave responded to something on a wrong thread a few weeks back, being a good lad I moved his answer to the right thread....only I actually moved it to another incorrect thread and couldn’t find where I had put it.....found it now :-)

Soz!

Jim

KugaWestie
28-02-18, 03:38 PM
Ah, ummmm, right then! Dave responded to something on a wrong thread a few weeks back, being a good lad I moved his answer to the right thread....only I actually moved it to another incorrect thread and couldn’t find where I had put it.....found it now :-)

Soz!

Jim

No worries Jim :D

It looks like you have corrected my typo in the thread title as well, good work, thanks!

aaronjb
28-02-18, 05:12 PM
Ah, ummmm, right then! Dave responded to something on a wrong thread a few weeks back, being a good lad I moved his answer to the right thread....only I actually moved it to another incorrect thread and couldn’t find where I had put it.....found it now :-)

Soz!

Jim

I think it might be time for a little lie down, Jim.. :lol: :lol:

Happy Jim
28-02-18, 06:28 PM
No worries Jim :D

It looks like you have corrected my typo in the thread title as well, good work, thanks!

Took me ages to work out that I could! ;-)

Happy Jim
28-02-18, 06:29 PM
I think it might be time for a little lie down, Jim.. :lol: :lol:

It might have been done at wine O’Clock ;-)

KugaWestie
28-02-18, 09:52 PM
Took me ages to work out that I could! ;-)

Appreciated, it has been annoying me for ages :grin:

KugaWestie
01-03-18, 08:34 AM
Anyone got any words of wisdom on the lower wishbone/coilover pin problem?

drammyboy
01-03-18, 09:07 AM
Don't machine the pin to suit your existing bushes

On p10 you mentioned Spax.......he might have bushes that will fit the existing pin and your shocks.

I'm interested in how you got with on the hub carrier rebuild kit mentioned on p11
Where did you get it and have you fitted it yet?

KugaWestie
01-03-18, 09:35 AM
Don't machine the pin to suit your existing bushes

On p10 you mentioned Spax.......he might have bushes that will fit the existing pin and your shocks.

I'm interested in how you got with on the hub carrier rebuild kit mentioned on p11
Where did you get it and have you fitted it yet?

I have spoke to the man I know at Spax and he tells me there is no bush available to fit the scenario :(

I have fitted the hub carrier kit, but not fitted the hub carrier to the wishbone yet due to the pin problem above. I got the kit from David Manners. Good link to a rebuild guide on P13

TINKA
01-03-18, 12:26 PM
I have spoke to the man I know at Spax and he tells me there is no bush available to fit the scenario :(

I have fitted the hub carrier kit, but not fitted the hub carrier to the wishbone yet due to the pin problem above. I got the kit from David Manners. Good link to a rebuild guide on P13

You could always fit one that is too large and get some collars made up to make them fit correctly.

KugaWestie
01-03-18, 06:53 PM
I have emailed Gaz to see if they can help out

KugaWestie
03-03-18, 06:55 PM
No joy with Gaz unless I want to buy a new set of dampers!

I am going to get the pins turned down in a lathe. The car will be lighter than the XJS was so hopefully it will be ok!

KugaWestie
03-03-18, 06:58 PM
I fitted the disc spacer shims today, and then fitted the calipers and lock wired them
https://i.imgur.com/oW44yPR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SOoRFAd.jpg

I also lock wired the diff bolts
https://i.imgur.com/7WLiSeH.jpg

I then started to have a look at the handbrake mechanism/calipers, and need to order a few bits, so have done. Then I can re-assemble them

KugaWestie
03-03-18, 07:02 PM
Annoyingly I am missing a part from one of the handbrake caliper assemblies that is proving to be a problem.

It is a protection cover Item 12 in this image
https://i.imgur.com/D8JkJSl.png

I cant find one anywhere to buy, anyone got any suggestions?

stokeflyer
03-03-18, 07:45 PM
Annoyingly I am missing a part from one of the handbrake caliper assemblies that is proving to be a problem.

It is a protection cover Item 12 in this image
https://i.imgur.com/D8JkJSl.png

I cant find one anywhere to buy, anyone got any suggestions?

Ed at Wards may be able to help?
Rich

KugaWestie
03-03-18, 07:57 PM
Ed at Wards may be able to help?
Rich

Thanks, I will give him a call on Monday

Ian 46
04-03-18, 09:44 PM
Hi Kuga Westie

I couldn't help notice that you have not achieved the correct alignment of the safety wiring in your photos.

Correct wiring pattern for a right-hand thread, two bolt situation will be as below.

35583

ambar
05-03-18, 09:26 AM
Just a quick question .... how do you manage to post such big pictures instead of the little thumbnail ones?

Cheers

Andy

KugaWestie
05-03-18, 03:55 PM
Just a quick question .... how do you manage to post such big pictures instead of the little thumbnail ones?

Cheers

Andy

Host them on Imgur and then post in the BBR Code

ambar
05-03-18, 07:39 PM
Thanks. I'll try that

KugaWestie
05-03-18, 09:07 PM
When you upload images to Imgur make sure you select the “Hidden” option. This means you don’t have to name every image and also means other imgur users cannot see the photo. They also tend to comment on photos. I found this annoying

KugaWestie
05-03-18, 09:14 PM
Hi Kuga Westie

I couldn't help notice that you have not achieved the correct alignment of the safety wiring in your photos.

Correct wiring pattern for a right-hand thread, two bolt situation will be as below

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35583&stc=1

Thanks

Redone - that look better?
https://i.imgur.com/w4m1fSw.jpg?1

KugaWestie
05-03-18, 09:19 PM
I had a sort through another parts box tonight as I am waiting for some bits to arrive.

Who can help with identification?
https://i.imgur.com/CZ3agsM.jpg


Bottom left are some basic pedal components

Top middle - Door hinges?

Top Left - Boot hinges?

Top right?

Two shaped plates?

Single plate with 4 holes?

TINKA
05-03-18, 09:53 PM
I had a sort through another parts box tonight as I am waiting for some bits to arrive.

Who can help with identification?
https://i.imgur.com/CZ3agsM.jpg


Bottom left are some basic pedal components

Top middle - Door hinges?

Top Left - Boot hinges?

Top right?

Two shaped plates?

Single plate with 4 holes?


Bottom left is their idea of a pedal box

Top middle - Door hinges (the part that secures to the door) Not up to the job if you fit them then the door will just wobble.

Top right? The plates you fit to the chassis that the door hinges connect too

Top Left - Boot hinges? Bonnet hinges

The 2 shaped plates I've never seen before

The large plate I have seen but cant think for the life of me where it went.

Hope this helps.

GDCobra
05-03-18, 10:03 PM
I had a sort through another parts box tonight as I am waiting for some bits to arrive.

Who can help with identification?
https://i.imgur.com/CZ3agsM.jpg


Bottom left are some basic pedal components

Top middle - Door hinges?

Top Left - Boot hinges?

Top right?

Two shaped plates?

Single plate with 4 holes?

I'm sure I saw something like that in a museum, the section on medieval torture IIRC.

Dek
05-03-18, 10:32 PM
Top left are bonnet hinges. The plate with 4 holes I think will fit vertically at the front of the transmission tunnel to fill the gap into the engine bay.
Dek

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 07:23 AM
Bottom left is their idea of a pedal box

Top middle - Door hinges (the part that secures to the door) Not up to the job if you fit them then the door will just wobble.

Top right? The plates you fit to the chassis that the door hinges connect too

Top Left - Boot hinges? Bonnet hinges

The 2 shaped plates I've never seen before

The large plate I have seen but cant think for the life of me where it went.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

So the door hinges are not up to it, what would you recommend instead?

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 07:24 AM
I'm sure I saw something like that in a museum, the section on medieval torture IIRC.

Ha ha, yes I see what you mean!

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 07:26 AM
Top left are bonnet hinges. The plate with 4 holes I think will fit vertically at the front of the transmission tunnel to fill the gap into the engine bay.
Dek

That's helpful thanks

TINKA
06-03-18, 12:29 PM
Thanks

So the door hinges are not up to it, what would you recommend instead?

When we made my mates car we used some AK ones which were nice and firm but unfortunately not quite the right shape resulting in the door's not opening as wide as you might want them too. It's possible we could of mounted them slightly differently and overcome this but not sure. You could always try some Dax hinges?

nealgs
06-03-18, 12:35 PM
friend uses some DAX door hinges for his, but they needed modifying to fit and open correctly.

philbrad73
06-03-18, 12:57 PM
Hi Gary,

As the door hinges you already have are designed for you car.Would I not be better to strengthen them up?

Some extra holes in the plate to attach to the chassis?

Make sure the Bolts/pins to join the arms on are a tight fit and any sack taken u with washers.

Once the arms are bolted to the doors if needed they could have pieces welded between then to strengthen them.

Ten if needed add more steel to the arm, but the geometry should still be correct?

Regards Phil.

TINKA
06-03-18, 01:34 PM
Hi Gary,

As the door hinges you already have are designed for you car.Would I not be better to strengthen them up?

Some extra holes in the plate to attach to the chassis?

Make sure the Bolts/pins to join the arms on are a tight fit and any sack taken u with washers.

Once the arms are bolted to the doors if needed they could have pieces welded between then to strengthen them.

Ten if needed add more steel to the arm, but the geometry should still be correct?

Regards Phil.

It's more than that, another friend used them and they were like jelly when open as the metal itself is too thin and he had to reshape them as well. H eventually has some stainless steel ones made to a different shape out of a thicker gauge steel. As for the statement "they are designed for the car" not too sure of their idea for the pedals :shock: :shock: I'm not having a go at you (at least that is not my intention) just saying :oops: :oops:

philbrad73
06-03-18, 02:19 PM
I'd assume they are like most kit's "require tweaking" I would try them adjust if necessary and once the geometry is correct and the door opens and closes, you can see where needs strengthening. Adjust them or make new ones using them as a template. If you use ones from another make you would still have to make them work. Unless someone knows what to alter on them?

String
06-03-18, 04:09 PM
If you need a couple of photos of the Dax door hinges, just let me know.

jon1d
06-03-18, 07:07 PM
Hi Gary,

Great photo's and write up which is great as reference for any builders or dis-assembly . I notice on the top wishbone the nut is at the end of the thread almost flush with no thread . I was failed on an MOT and had to fit narrower nuts .

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 08:14 PM
Hi Gary,

Great photo's and write up which is great as reference for any builders or dis-assembly . I notice on the top wishbone the nut is at the end of the thread almost flush with no thread . I was failed on an MOT and had to fit narrower nuts .

Thanks.

I had noted that and intend to put a slimmer washer in and see how it looked after that. If it is still a bit tight then I planned to change to a half nut as you suggest.

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 08:16 PM
If you need a couple of photos of the Dax door hinges, just let me know.

Yes please, it is all good information from all you fella's and you can't beat the feedback/ideas of people that have been through similar issues already

Keep it coming chaps!

String
06-03-18, 09:17 PM
‘ere ya go:
http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35610&stc=1 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35611&stc=1 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35612&stc=1

They’re pretty strong items, each came with some simple spreader plates. HTH

KugaWestie
06-03-18, 09:59 PM
Thanks

Yes they do look substantial compared to these
https://i.imgur.com/Y5C8AjJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JHjYPAh.jpg

It has got me thinking of ways to stiffen them up a bit.

The plate used for the part that fits to the door is 6mm thick. I am wondering if I could weld a plate to the back of it at a 90 degree angle to make a T profile?

philbrad73
06-03-18, 10:29 PM
Fit them and get them working then decide? They look like 30x6 flats, I'd be surprised if two of them are so bad at supporting a small fibreglass door? Some people make gates out of that material. Make the hinge part with as little play as possible.

KugaWestie
07-03-18, 07:23 AM
Fit them and get them working then decide? They look like 30x6 flats, I'd be surprised if two of them are so bad at supporting a small fibreglass door? Some people make gates out of that material. Make the hinge part with as little play as possible.

I may well do that.

I am interested to hear a bit more from TINKA with regards to the door wobbling around.
How did it wobble?
Was it that the door dropped on the hinges a bit when opened, or was it that the door wobbled through the height of the door/twisted?

kdavies3
07-03-18, 07:53 AM
You could make your own on the lines of these from Europa.
https://www.europaspares.com/swing-away-door-bonnet-hinges.html
I used these for my internal boot hinges.

TINKA
07-03-18, 12:28 PM
I may well do that.

I am interested to hear a bit more from TINKA with regards to the door wobbling around.
How did it wobble?
Was it that the door dropped on the hinges a bit when opened, or was it that the door wobbled through the height of the door/twisted?

On the 2 cars I know of the doors when fitted wobbled if you put any weight at all on them, then they flexed down, they would twist and on a couple of occasions (so I'm told I wasn't their) they flexed enough when closing them that despite being adjusted correctly to fit the aperture correctly one caught the body damaging the gelcote. I would of thought looking at them they should have been up to the job, but perhaps the quality of the metal is really poor or perhaps they heated them to form them removing all the strength. Despite how this all sounds Im only trying to pass on some of the problems we came across on 3 different cars, 2 were Classic Replicas the other im not sure about, it originally was Chester AK's car.

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 11:22 AM
On the 2 cars I know of the doors when fitted wobbled if you put any weight at all on them, then they flexed down, they would twist and on a couple of occasions (so I'm told I wasn't their) they flexed enough when closing them that despite being adjusted correctly to fit the aperture correctly one caught the body damaging the gelcote. I would of thought looking at them they should have been up to the job, but perhaps the quality of the metal is really poor or perhaps they heated them to form them removing all the strength. Despite how this all sounds Im only trying to pass on some of the problems we came across on 3 different cars, 2 were Classic Replicas the other im not sure about, it originally was Chester AK's car.

Martin

Thanks, its all good information

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 11:23 AM
I decided to bite the bullet and get my lower wishbone damper pins turned down so they pass through the damper bush.

I have just got them back, so hope I have measured correctly!

https://i.imgur.com/WWbPa6R.jpg

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 09:20 PM
I started to have a look at assembling the rest of the rear suspension tonight.

Nothing is tight and the top bolts on the dampers need changing as they are not long enough.

https://i.imgur.com/QWUFpKL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yjTYafg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MUsKb0u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/B4eJVGc.jpg

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 09:23 PM
Which way does everyone put the damper adjuster? Facing the outside or the inside of the car? At present I have put the first side facing outwards, but am wondering which is easiest for adjustment once built?

TINKA
08-03-18, 09:50 PM
Mine are facing inwards so it's easier to adjust them. Although not done that in years now.

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 09:56 PM
Mine are facing inwards so it's easier to adjust them. Although not done that in years now.

Thanks, that's good to know, I will turn them around then

String
08-03-18, 10:10 PM
Check if the damper spacer is required - fits between the fore damper and wishbone (it’s about 8mm thick) on the shafts you’ve turned down.

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 10:27 PM
Check if the damper spacer is required - fits between the fore damper and wishbone (it’s about 8mm thick) on the shafts you’ve turned down.

Ah good, thanks for the tip. I wondered if the spacer went there :grin:

String
08-03-18, 10:34 PM
Ah good, thanks for the tip. I wondered if the spacer went there :grin:

No worries, but hope I’m not gonna bring on a bout of cursing, but an after thought is, won’t the i.d. of the spacer be too large for the shaft now? :confused: Could be a work around...

KugaWestie
08-03-18, 10:44 PM
No worries, but hope I’m not gonna bring on a bout of cursing, but an after thought is, won’t the i.d. of the spacer be too large for the shaft now? :confused: Could be a work around...

I will have to have a look, nothing a few washers cannot sort though

russell_ram2
09-03-18, 07:25 AM
I will have to have a look, nothing a few washers cannot sort though

well, you're going to need at least one washer on the inside of the dampers anyway (where there isn't one in the 'as original' installation) else you now won't clamp the bush tube between the nut and the lower arm tube - the damper bush outer diameter is probably not large enough and will soon work it's way up the inside of the arm tube and come loose.

Maybe Gaz should've sold you the correct sized bush in the first place.

KugaWestie
09-03-18, 07:44 AM
well, you're going to need at least one washer on the inside of the dampers anyway (where there isn't one in the 'as original' installation) else you now won't clamp the bush tube between the nut and the lower arm tube - the damper bush outer diameter is probably not large enough and will soon work it's way up the inside of the arm tube and come loose.

Maybe Gaz should've sold you the correct sized bush in the first place.

OK.

I did say in my post everything was loose, I need some more bolts for the top of the dampers, and yes there will be some washers put in.

GAZ did not sell me the dampers, they came with the project when I purchased it in its unstarted state.

samiths
03-05-18, 09:27 AM
I'm sure it will be a nice looking Classic Replica once completed. Good luck!

KugaWestie
03-05-18, 09:10 PM
I'm sure it will be a nice looking Classic Replica once completed. Good luck!

Thanks :)

I must get cracking again

KugaWestie
03-05-18, 09:15 PM
Gary, more good progress; you must have spent a fortune on meals out with the missus, or was it an incredible kitchen fit before the cob?! ;)


The kitchen refurb is now complete, so it's time to get back on with the build of the Cobra, after a weekend at Stoneleigh of course!

String
03-05-18, 11:09 PM
Thought that might be why all quiet on the Classic Replica front...enjoy Stoneleigh. Good to see you moving forward again soon.

KugaWestie
09-05-18, 10:13 PM
I am back in the garage :)

Handbrake calipers re-assembled with new internals, greased up and fitted

https://i.imgur.com/1Dprr4z.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Wggau61.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NCbynRG.jpg

KugaWestie
09-05-18, 10:15 PM
Drivers side halfshaft and hub fitted onto diff/wishbone but not complete yet
https://i.imgur.com/6ETbMEM.jpg

KugaWestie
09-05-18, 10:25 PM
During the kit car show last weekend, I had a good chat with Intatrim. Today on my travels I called into them and borrowed a shallow padded seat to have a looking at trying to maximise legroom.
The chassis has a flat floor but the perimeter is surrounded by 80mm high structural members. The rear bulkhead is 80mm further back from the rear structural member.
If the seat is positioned on the floor inside the chassis rails as you would expect, this means there is 80mm of wasted space behind the seat. Not good for me at 6'3"

View from above
https://i.imgur.com/XnkUHYU.jpg


Rear bulkhead chassis area
https://i.imgur.com/0ql2eGg.jpg


View from side
https://i.imgur.com/em9icJX.jpg



I mocked up my planned seat position in the drivers side. Basically if I raise it 80mm off the floor, I gain 80mm of legroom. My concern is that by doing this I will put the top of the windscreen frame right in the line of vision.
I got a couple of close-ish measurements of the windscreen I will be buying from Brasscraft at the kit car show last weekend. With the seat in position and me sat in the seat holding a tape measure in position to get a rough feel for where the screen will be, it is close but looks like it might work. I really need to revisit this when the body is on and I have the screen.

Seat in position and packed up
https://i.imgur.com/ckKUfax.jpg


Rear of the seat from the side sat on top of the chassis rails
https://i.imgur.com/9497mya.jpg


View of the seat from the rear sat on the chassis rail
https://i.imgur.com/feXxOy1.jpg


Gap between the seat and the floor
https://i.imgur.com/0rBS13u.jpg


Side view of the seat from the passenger side, sitting up slightly higher than the tunnel
https://i.imgur.com/m9zqKGZ.jpg


So I am fairly comfortable with what I have seen tonight on the seat mock up. Intatrim have also told me they can reduce the foam thickness and use a denser foam on the bottom of the seat which will effectively reduce the ride height of the driver by 30mm, which could be a key consideration

TINKA
10-05-18, 01:37 AM
Sorry to sound like a scratched record but looking at the angle of your rear shock you really should move the top position out a bit to reduce the angle. It should be vertical to work properly as the more the angle the less effect it has. Your car looks identical to my mates car which bottomed out a lot. If you remove the spring and fit the shock on it's own and then move the axle to ride height it will make the angle even worse. If you do move it you might have to move it up a bit as well as otherwise the shock might end up being a little bit too long.

KugaWestie
10-05-18, 08:05 AM
Sorry to sound like a scratched record but looking at the angle of your rear shock you really should move the top position out a bit to reduce the angle. It should be vertical to work properly as the more the angle the less effect it has. Your car looks identical to my mates car which bottomed out a lot. If you remove the spring and fit the shock on it's own and then move the axle to ride height it will make the angle even worse. If you do move it you might have to move it up a bit as well as otherwise the shock might end up being a little bit too long.

I have not forgotten your previous comments Martin.

I do not consider the angle of the rear shocks to be a problem to be honest. They will work perfectly well at that angle. Yes it might be the ideal scenario to have them upright, but it is not essential.
But my intention is to review this once it is a rolling chassis when I can add some weight to the rear end and bounce it around.
If I recall correctly you said your mate only fitted one shock/spring per side not two, this must have contributed to the bottoming out?

aaronjb
10-05-18, 09:07 AM
Incidentally, which seat is that from Intatrim? I had a chat to them at the show, too, and quite like the look of the Gemini & Challenger; I think yours is Challenger? Looks like they, too, will be too wide for the Dax, though.

A shame, as they are half the price of having the Dax shells upholstered..

KugaWestie
10-05-18, 09:34 AM
Incidentally, which seat is that from Intatrim? I had a chat to them at the show, too, and quite like the look of the Gemini & Challenger; I think yours is Challenger? Looks like they, too, will be too wide for the Dax, though.

A shame, as they are half the price of having the Dax shells upholstered..

Correct, it is a Challenger seat

KugaWestie
20-05-18, 08:57 AM
I now have working pedals.
I took a standard MX5 pedal box assembly, cut it about, reshaped everything and rewelded. The clutch pedal needed bending and shortening. The brake pedal got cut off, shaped and rewelded. The accelerator pedal got bent to a new shape.

https://i.imgur.com/F90RzlU.jpg

KugaWestie
31-05-18, 08:11 PM
I have been thinking about gearing of the car.

At present I have a 3.5 Rover V8 from an SD1, and a manual gearbox which I think is an LT77.

Assuming thats the case, the gearbox ratios are:-
1st - 3.321
2nd - 2.087
3rd - 1.396
4th - 1
5th - 0.833

Included in my XJS donor parts when I collected the project was the Diff from the XJS. This is a 2.88 Powerlock from a 5.3 V12 HE.

I think this may be a bit long, great for cruising but not for acceleration.

I have been offered either a 3.07 Powerlock or a 3.54 Powerlock diff as a straight swap for my 2.88.

But I am struggling to decide which diff will be the best option. Obviously the 3.54 would be better for acceleration, but will it rev too high at say 75mph on a long journey?

What is the rover engine happy to cruise at RPM wise? According to Haynes Manual, the Original SD1 Diff would have been 3.08. This gave the SD1 a 0-60 time of around 8.5 seconds I think on twin SU carbs. My engine has been rebored but I dont know by ho much, has a fast road cam (again dont know spec), and will be fuel injected. The exhaust will no doubt flow better than a stock SD1 system.
A stock SD1 V8 was 155BHP, what will my set up see, 180bhp?, 200bhp?

I am guessing the Cobra will be a fair bit lighter then the SD1, which weighed in at 1367kg, but how much lighter I dont know, my guess would be around 1100kg when built? Say 250kg lighter?

Anyone able to give me any assistance here?

Discuss.........

TINKA
01-06-18, 12:08 AM
3.54 is the one I would go for or at a stretch 3.33-1 But the rest are too tall. If the 3.07 was an open diff I would love one of them but I will be running a 3.33-1 in my car.

I put a 2.88-1 diff in my car 2 years ago and will be putting a 3.33-1 one back in as there is no acceleration in the car when cruising unless you drop it 1 or 2 gears and as you can see I have a bit more HP in my engine. Although it is nice to cruise with this diff in.

Happy Jim
01-06-18, 12:29 AM
I ran a 3.31:1 for a few years with an RV8/LT77, it was “ok” but no more than that, I’m currently running a 3.54 for the acceleration and 5th is good to cruise up to about 80, beyond that it’s a bit buzzy (My 5th is 0.83, I also have 6th at 0.5 for cruising!)

Jim

PS, if you do go for the LSD get it derated or you’ll suffer from understeer.

KugaWestie
01-06-18, 07:01 AM
I ran a 3.31:1 for a few years with an RV8/LT77, it was “ok” but no more than that, I’m currently running a 3.54 for the acceleration and 5th is good to cruise up to about 80, beyond that it’s a bit buzzy (My 5th is 0.83, I also have 6th at 0.5 for cruising!)

Jim

PS, if you do go for the LSD get it derated or you’ll suffer from understeer.

Thanks Jim

Can you explain what you mean by "derated" on an LSD please?

KugaWestie
01-06-18, 07:02 AM
3.54 is the one I would go for or at a stretch 3.33-1 But the rest are too tall. If the 3.07 was an open diff I would love one of them but I will be running a 3.33-1 in my car.

I put a 2.88-1 diff in my car 2 years ago and will be putting a 3.33-1 one back in as there is no acceleration in the car when cruising unless you drop it 1 or 2 gears and as you can see I have a bit more HP in my engine. Although it is nice to cruise with this diff in.

This was my suspicion that the 2.88 will be too long, thanks

TINKA
01-06-18, 12:39 PM
The slip in the diff is designed to be operated by a 2 ton car so that when you corner the wheels can turn at different speeds slightly. Our cars being only around 1 ton arent heavy enough to achieve this, so if you apply any throttle whilst cornering the car will just try to go in a straight line. I have experianced this and if you aren't expecting this it scares the crap out of you. I derated mine and the pressure needed to break the lock went from 95 ft/lb to 25 ft/lb.