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View Full Version : IVA - that was entertaining!



Peaches94
02-05-18, 09:13 PM
For those who want the short version - IVA today at Kidderminster - failed :(

For those who want to learn from today's adventure - read on!


Although the IVA test was today, it all started going wrong over the weekend when I lost a shed load of prep time due to a family illness.
So I had to compact all my final checks etc into a much shorter time frame than I thought - basically Sunday afternoon Monday and Tuesday night.
The main problem I had on the list was being unable to get my speedometer to work off the Tremec gearbox speed sender. No matter what I tried the Speedhut speedo resolutely refused to detect a signal. So I changed approach and called up ETB and ordered one of their powered speed sensors to sense the diff pinion lobes. Hats off to ETB for shipping next day. Its a 3-wire sensor with a 12v input - I just had to make a small L-shaped bracket to position the sensor. The good bit is it outputs a decent voltage to the gauge and has an LED that indicates when its in range of a metal object. And the best bit - my speedo started working straight away.

So panic over - I thought.
No - as I put the dash back together and ran a final systems check - neither the horn or the reverse lamp worked. On the AK they are on the same fuse - which had blown so I replaced it - and same again. The fuse blew as soon as ignition switched on. Given it was 10PM when this revelation occurred and I couldn't trace the fault - I gave in and accepted it would be a fail the next day.
Actually this changed my approach to the day - knowing you will fail means its all about how many failures you get.

Appointment was at 9am at Kidderminster, which is less than 5 miles from home - which was just as well as it rained like crazy and people in tin tops think you are mad!
So there I am about a mile from home and had to swerve to avoid an oncoming errant van driver - and kerbed both nearside alloys :( not a great start to the day.

Arrived at the test centre and met the examiner. Friendly guy, asked quite a few questions and encouraged me to ask about anything I was unsure of.

The test commenced and he ran though his checklist.
It started off quite well with a couple of minor issues with cabling that I was allowed to repair at the time.
On the emissions test, initially it was a dramatic fail ( i'm running an old school 78 block Chevy - so the standard shouldn't be an issue.) I was way over on HC at idle. But fair play - the inspector was up for trying multiple times allowing me to tweak things including driving round the centre to clean things out. In the end, the first thing I adjusted got me through comfortably- raising the idle speed from around 650 to just under 1000.
The speedo test was handy as the tester helped me calibrate the speedo properly. Bit weird watching your wheels hit 70 on the rollers!
Cruised the brake performance test including the troublesome AK handbrake which achieved 26%

So where did it all go wrong: - here's the list. Some of these are my own stupidity for not spotting issues but a couple were unexpected and one i'll have a problem with.


Reverse lamp not working
Horn not working
Indicators too low - i didn't use the AK supplied blacked out lens covers as my lenses were fitted in the wrong plane - so I taped min up - not well enough as there was a very small orange light visible below the permitted level.
Steering shaft fouling - I'm really annoyed with myself over this one. Basically the bulkhead bearing was slightly loose where it grips the shaft and had allowed the clamp bolt on the shaft to machine the clutch master cylinder at the bottom of the reservoir - enough to make me want to replace it. I noticed a couple of weeks ago when testing lock to lock the steering was sticking at one point in the movement - but then cleared up so thought no more. - Really glad they spotted that one.
Power Steering pipes fouling - basically the AK Supplied steering rack metal pipes were deemed too close or touching the chassis possibly giving metal on metal situation. The suggested fix is to put rubber shielding in between but may be easier just to raise the rack slightly with spacers.
Wiring needs to be secured every 300mm - guess what the speedo sensor cable I installed in a hurry and missed one clip.
Wiring exposed to heatsource - one of the HT cables was running too close to header. A thermal boot required.
Insulation missing from Starter motor solenoid terminal. I need to fit a cap over this.
Radius test - Overriders. - Now I have the Europa stainless steel ones that have enclosed back and I thought were IVA friendly - seemingly not as the two of mine failed - so guess whet - they won't be fitted when it goes back!
All bolts used on Seat Belt Anchorages must be 8.8 or stronger. This was interesting as they picked up the bolts in the boot that fix the roll bar legs and the top seat belt bracket. basically I'd used some stainless steel bolts in places and they didn't recognise the markings. I'm pretty sure they exceed the standard, but for the sake of a few bolts and as I'd failed anyway - no point. Just an aside on this, the Kidderminster site seems to have an issue with the AK seat belt/roll hoop brackets for triangulation. Some of the guys on here have had to fit cross braces to get through. I'd made up a couple of brackets and I'm pretty sure it would have failed without them.
Brake pipe fouling on lock and brake pipe under stress. Basically I need to adjust the angle of the flexy.
Wheel guard dimensions not met. - now we are entering the harder fixes. I'm using Vintage wheels so its all my fault! but aside from kerbing a couple of them on the way to the test :( - I think they look great. But here's the issue, both the O/S/R and N/S/F were deemed to be too far outside the wheel guards. Which sort of suggests the body is slightly out of square on the chassis. Now I knew they were close and it turns out they are out by around 5-6 mm so it looks like I'll have to fit some hard rubber wheelarch extenders to get past this - the tester indicated that would be acceptable.
The effective seatbelt upper anchorage point must be at least 450mm above the reference point: - This looks quite tricky so I'll have a chat with AK. In essence, what they are saying is the seat base is too high by approximately 2cm. The tester really went to town on this and also wanted to fully inspect the upper anchorage so I had to remove the passenger seat for him to check. Now this was another day ruiner as - in moving the seat - one of the headrest bolts gouged a chunk out of the cockpit surround. Not sure when best to tell the missus! I don't think I've seen this issue anywhere on the forum. The suggestion was to remove some foam from the seat bases. I'm thinking thats a bit extreme. I can gain about 6mm by relieving the wooden bolster bases so they don't sit on the seat fixing bolts and maybe another 3-5 by removing the carpet under the seat but that's about it aside from asking the kids to jump up and down on the seats a lot.



So there you go and I reckon I was there nearly 6 hours from start to finish so remember to take supplies as none are offered.

The drive home was at least sunny and aside from a couple of issues I can at least see the end in sight - just need to regroup before the retest.

Daryn Smith
02-05-18, 10:33 PM
Well you now have a list and know what you have to do for a pass. I took mine to Kidderminster and it rained all the way there and back, got drenched.

dave
03-05-18, 12:39 AM
"Raising the height of the steering rack"
this could be a big NO NO!
Your steering rack height is critical to suspension and steering geometry. There is one position for a steering rack to avoid bump steer. Messing around with this will seriously affect the cars handling/drivability. You need to either check this or speak to Jon at AK before you change anything.
Slipping some Split Conduit over the hoses sounds like a much easier option. ;-)

Chimeara
03-05-18, 06:32 AM
Sounds like the test from hell.

Over half that list is easy fixes.

I agree with Dave though. Do not alter the height of the rack. If it’s the small metal pipes on the rack I know exactly what you mean. Just simply reshape them
To clear the chassis. It’s ysually only one and I do this prior to fitting. A careful lever though with something non metallic between the pipe and the chassis can usually achieve the result when the rack is in situ

I’ve tested over 30 AKs, never had one issue with the seat belt Anchorage’s.

I’m amazed though that with the list of faults you have regarding steering etc that they let you drive it away. I always recommend trailering to and from the test.

Good luck with the fixes and the re test.

AndyM
03-05-18, 06:33 AM
Steve, thanks for posting such a comprehensive update. I have my test at Kiddi on the 4th of June and this will add to my pre-checklist. Interesting to see how you get on with seat belt mounting issue as I imagine I have the same set up as you, did you use the standard AK seats etc?

Peaches94
03-05-18, 06:51 AM
"Raising the height of the steering rack"
this could be a big NO NO!
Your steering rack height is critical to suspension and steering geometry. There is one position for a steering rack to avoid bump steer. Messing around with this will seriously affect the cars handling/drivability. You need to either check this or speak to Jon at AK before you change anything.
Slipping some Split Conduit over the hoses sounds like a much easier option. ;-)

Dave, I agree, having looked at it closely it only needs the pipe moving a small amount and should be able to do in situ.

Peaches94
03-05-18, 07:01 AM
Steve, thanks for posting such a comprehensive update. I have my test at Kiddi on the 4th of June and this will add to my pre-checklist. Interesting to see how you get on with seat belt mounting issue as I imagine I have the same set up as you, did you use the standard AK seats etc?

Andy, yes standard AK seats trimmed by Dougie. I have to say the gadget used to check the height doesn’t look very accurate as you may see from the photo. I’ll let you know how I get on.

Peaches94
03-05-18, 07:38 AM
Sounds like the test from hell.

Over half that list is easy fixes.

I agree with Dave though. Do not alter the height of the rack. If it’s the small metal pipes on the rack I know exactly what you mean. Just simply reshape them
To clear the chassis. It’s ysually only one and I do this prior to fitting. A careful lever though with something non metallic between the pipe and the chassis can usually achieve the result when the rack is in situ

I’ve tested over 30 AKs, never had one issue with the seat belt Anchorage’s.

I’m amazed though that with the list of faults you have regarding steering etc that they let you drive it away. I always recommend trailering to and from the test.

Good luck with the fixes and the re test.

thanks Anthony, it’s appreciated how much support you pro builders offer. I guess it down to individual testers interpretation on the Anchorage and safety to drive away. I fixed the top steering bearing while I was there and the brake flexy fouling was on extreme lock, the pipe was just laying against the suspension arm so possible future issue as with the power steering pipes. I can’t dissagree with your point on trailering though.