View Full Version : Crankshaft Spigot Bush

Phil McCann
24-03-04, 10:35 AM
Hi guys

In the final stages of rebuild I find that the spigot bush in the crank is 3/4", and the nose of the LT77 is 1/2".
Have I got something wrong or do you get 1/2" spigot bushes??



24-03-04, 11:22 AM

Sounds like you have the spigot for the automatic in your crank, you need the manual spigot, try www.rimmerbros.co.uk go to the SD1 section


:tu :tu

24-03-04, 11:23 AM
Are you sure there is a bronze bush in the crank? I am trying to remember which size parts of the clutch alignement tool I used but I'm not sure enough to say.
A little later,,,,,
I just checked a spare engine I have here at work and the bush is definitly 0.5" i/d.I also have a scrap P6 engine that seems to have a steel bush in that is about 0.75" i/d.Maybe thats the difference.
Steve G {-}
GE427-Rover 281ci.(300+BHP)

24-03-04, 12:04 PM

This is definately an auto vs manual thing. You have an engine that used have an auto fitted, you need to replace the spigot bush with one for a manual. I have some if you can't source elsewhere.


24-03-04, 12:15 PM
I have just done mine, brought bush from RPI not expensive. Used the trick of filling old bush with grease and banging a old socket in the hole make grease push old one out.


Phil McCann
24-03-04, 12:42 PM
Hi guys

Thanks for the swift response. The engine I'm re-building is a P6 unit but I want to mate it to an LT77. Will the SD1 bush fit the P6 crank???

Thanks again


25-03-04, 05:54 AM

SDI and P6 crank internal diameters of spigot hole are the same. LT77 and bush will fit.

MOST important part of all this is that the spigot bush in the crank of an auto is STEEL, manual is PHOSPHOR BRONZE.

Result if you dont fit the correct spigot?
High speed change down in gear results in gearbox input shaft 'welding' itself to steel spigot bush which in turn 'welds' itself to crank. No declutching after this and a sod of a job to get the two units apart when trying to fix the problem.

I know as I managed to do this to an old P6 I had when I changed from an auto to manual set up. Managed to get the car home by stalling at junctions, starting the engine in first gear (lots of Kangaroo hops away from junctions) and clutchless changes the rest of the way home!

Use the 'hydraulic' method for removal of the old spigot as suggested earlier in this thread.


Phil McCann
26-03-04, 11:33 AM

Tried the trick with the grease etc....absolutely brilliant!!!!