View Full Version : Steering Column & Clutch Pedal Clearance

15-07-04, 03:24 PM
Hi all,

fitted my steering column again after I have refitted the pedal assembly and low and behold I now have a clearance problem with the clutch pedal. Ok not a major problem i thought just bend it out of the way a little bit. Now getting really really pi**ed off with taking the pedal box out and not wanting to do it again (nightmare fitting the damn thing with my stainless enginebay lining stopping my clutch master cylinder from screwing in) Im after some suggestions about how I can bend it in situ. My muscles are big enough to do it so any ideas?



15-07-04, 04:33 PM
Hi Ben.
You shouldn't have any probs with the clutch pedal if the lower column mounting bush is in a good place. (As high as poss and then as far inward as poss)
If this bush is too low yyour steering UJ will hit the manifold pipe for No.8 cylinder (Chevy).

15-07-04, 09:04 PM
Hi Ben

I had that very same problem, i sorted it by moving the position of the column support bush higher and a tiny bit of fettling to the clutch pedal.(eat three shredded wheat!)


05-08-04, 04:13 PM
I too had to bend the Clutch pedal (and remove some of the fibreglass footwell - thankfully not the Alu bulk head as well) - which was disappointing.

But now having tried to fit the steering column - with it positioned high enough to touch the inside of the footwell - it is still too close to the manifold pipe. According to DAX they have enough clearance with the exhaust to wrap their hand around the UJ - I barely have 3mm!!

Has anyone else experienced this? and how did you resolve it?
Should I be shortening the Steering column? Or am I missing something obvious?

Any advice would be very gratefully received,


05-08-04, 08:52 PM
As long as you've fitted the column bearing as high and inboard as possible you should be OK.
Like Dave's picture above.
I've used Dax's headers without any problems.

08-08-04, 10:11 AM
Don't cut the steering column I did then found out that it slides in&out the triangle bit , I had asked DAx the same ? as it was too close to the dash board but they didn't tell me that it slid out .
As far as the manifolds I had to ,on Dax's instructions , beat the aluminium lined footwell with a bloody big hammer to get clearance ,after I had removed the fiberglass .


08-08-04, 06:20 PM

The trick with the steering column is to not slide the bush up the column onto the triangulated section, just slide it onto the splines enough so that there is just enough room for the UJ to fit on the end. The reason for this is because the column extension is on an angle and to make the steering more comfortable the column needs to be as straight as possible, if you only have about an inch of the splines poking through the column bush you are reducing the angle that the extension has to run through. (DO NOT CUT DOWN THE SPLINE SECTION THE ACHEIVE THIS OTHERWISE YOUR COLUMN STALKS WILL BE TOO CLOSE TO THE DASH).
If you fit the column as is with only one inch of splines showing through the bush it will all fit together fine. You will more than likely have to trim some GRP from the top of the footwell box to allow the column to run down freely, but that's not a big job.
Also, when fitting the column to the car make sure you have a steering wheel attached securely to the column otherwise everything you set up will be wrong as the upper column section is spring loaded.
Probably this info is too late for you guys but will help anyone who hasn't started this part of the build yet.

09-08-04, 07:49 AM
yep too late :-(

already cut the bar that links the too UJs, without the wheel, so it is now too short DOH! another cockup by the master of cockups......

09-08-04, 08:43 AM
If your column switches are are a bit close to the dash and they often are.
Applying a bit of heat from a hot air gun (not a blow lamp) to the stalks will allow them to be bent away from the dash.
Don't overdo it though or you'll melt and disfigure them completely. :thumb: