Stainless Ford Sierra indicator stalks.

[craggle]

[h1]I decided to do away with the cheap looking plastic Ford sierra stalks on my car so designed and made my own from Stainless steel and aluminium. I really wanted to retain the push functions on the end of the stalks so this made them quite complicated!
The basic procedure is outlined below.
You will need access to a lathe, TIG welding gear and soldering equipment.[/h1]

[h2]Assembly of Ford Sierra Indicator stalks.[/h2]

Items required

Part number 001, 3 required (2 off only with slot for grub screw)

Part number 002, 2 required

Part number 003, 1 required

Part number 004, 3 required (2 curved, 1 flat)

Part number 005, 1 required.

Two off M3x8 stainless steel grub screws.

Two off push button switches, RS Part number 103-5726

Two springs cut down to suit, RS part number 751-590


Do not attempt if at all concerned by your ability to re-assemble afterwards!

First things first, Dismantle the old indicator stalks. I did this by drilling out the brass rivets used to hold them together. Remove the arms and try to retain all the springs that will fall out.

The light switch is the easiest to start with. Cut the arm off the base as close as possible to the curved plastic shield near the base. File smooth. The short stainless arm (Part number 003) needs to be welded to one of the curved bases (Part number 004) I had them TIG welded on the back the ground smooth again. Note the angle of each arm in relation to its base is not perpendicular. You will need to check each arm on the car and the steering wheel to ensure they are welded in the correct positions.
Polishing before fitting the arms is also advised. The aluminium end cap is simply glued on the light switch, short arm . I used loctite retaining compound. The plastic curve base of the arm is drilled to match the stainless plate and then bolted into place with M3 screws and nuts. I used a small amount of araldite behind as well to take up any gaps between the plastic and the steel. Keep the screws as short as possible to prevent them catching up on the rear.

The other arms are very similar in construction except the switch is inserted in the ends of the stainless tubes first then a spring is cut to push the aluminium ends back away from the switches. The ends are held in place with an M3 grub screw and some thread lock.
Wires are run down the inside of the tube and soldered to there relevant contacts inside the switch bases. Insulate the wires where they are soldered to the switches!

The indicator arm is held in place by the tapped plate (Part number 005) being pushed through the small gap behind the arm itself then being secured in place with more screws. Slight trimming of the surrounding plastic may be needed to operate in all positions.

The switch assemblies can be reassembled and held together with small self tapping screws rather than trying to reuse the long rivets.
I have photos of the switch assemblies after completion which I can send if required and I can answer all (most) questions.

Good Luck

Craig.

Craig.theobald@btinternet.com

[craggle]

Few more files.

[blind man]

Nice one i will most likley make these in the near future, are these ok for the sva?

[iancobrafan]

Hi Craig,

I will only need two stalks (both require push button on the end, horn and washer)
I have the drawings, silly question is the switch in the 10mm tube glued in? push fit?

Regards
Ian

[craggle]

Hi Ian

The switch was only pushed into place and not very tightly. The spring that pushes the end back out also pushes the switch back into the tube so it can't go anywhere.

If it is a really loose fit it could be glued into place but it's not really necessary.

Craig.

[iancobrafan]

Hi Craig,

Cheers i have ordered the tube and i have a mate who will machine the ends,

The SD1 ends are complicated to take apart but the exsisting stalks are 5 mm dia so i leave a 20mm stub and be able to slide the new stalk over it (grub screws to hold it in place) may made a 20mm long square stub with 10mm hole in one end and a 5 mm hole in the other probably be a better fit that way.

When complete i will takes some pictures in case anyone else is ever thinking of doing the same

Thanks again

Ian