Steering Rack Mod ?

**jonny m** · 15-12-10, 10:44 PM

Not a Cobra I know, but guessing with this forums experience of bump stop someone may be able to advise.

I'm trying to shoe horn a Rover V8 in to an old Scimitar.

If I modify the Rover's crank pulley to match one of the fan pulleys, it should just fit.

Ideally I need an SD1 timing cover etc... and that would drain me another �200 I can ill afford.

So, an extra half inch would be nice, what are people's thoughts on moving the steering rack by spacing the chassis mounts with an extra bolt between the rack, and the chassis ?

Jon

**Sidecarbod** · 16-12-10, 04:48 AM

You may induce bumpsteer which is not good!

**chedz** · 16-12-10, 08:00 AM

how about cutting a notch in either side of the pulley so it fits around the rack?

I know...I'm a genius!

**jonny m** · 16-12-10, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by chedz

how about cutting a notch in either side of the pulley so it fits around the rack?

I know...I'm a genius!

Explain more my genius friend, I'm confused.

The main shaft of the pulley can't fit under the rack as there is a bottom chassis rail fouling the remote oil take off. Plus there would be no room left for the radiator etc...

**craggle** · 16-12-10, 10:34 AM

He's having a laugh with you, Cut a notch either side of the pulley to clear the shaft will be fine so long as you never start the engine!

I'd go for spacing the rack forward. It costs noting to do, is quick and easy and if you find the steering and handling are affected when it's on the road, then you can have a rethink.

Moving the rack forward though will require the tracking to be re-set and the track rod ends will need to be moved outwards to make the shafts longer. Just make sure there is enough thread in the rod ends as you don't want them pulling out!

Craig.

**jonny m** · 16-12-10, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by chedz

how about cutting a notch in either side of the pulley

Ya sod.

Originally Posted by craggle

I'd go for spacing the rack forward. It costs noting to do, is quick and easy and if you find the steering and handling are affected when it's on the road, then you can have a rethink.

Craig.

Cheers - sound like an initial plan then

**Sidecarbod** · 16-12-10, 12:24 PM

Is your engine actually mounted to the chassis in the picture that you posted up? If it is then it looks like you do not need to create much clearance, you could grind the lip off the lower pulley, that will you get you around 3mm. Whilst this amount is not enough to fit the belt it should be OK in terms of engine rock etc.

By the way, the pulleys don't look very well aligned at the moment.

**tonym** · 16-12-10, 12:34 PM

Why not buy a knacker engine off ebay for a few quid, use the front cover (with a new seal) and scrap/sell the rest. Save moving anything

**Sidecarbod** · 16-12-10, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by tonym

Why not buy a knacker engine off ebay for a few quid, use the front cover (with a new seal) and scrap/sell the rest. Save moving anything

Can you get a shorter front end than the one fitted then? (Not take the pi55, BTW). Also if you can get one can you get a smaller/shorter damper than the one in the picture?

**jonny m** · 16-12-10, 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by Sidecarbod

Is your engine actually mounted to the chassis in the picture ....By the way, the pulleys don't look very well aligned at the moment.

Engine is on 4 axle stands until I'm sure where to weld the mounts

Originally Posted by tonym

Why not buy a knacker engine off ebay for a few quid

Time, cost, money, and not many on eBay in the NW

Originally Posted by Sidecarbod

Can you get a shorter front end than the one fitted then? (Not take the pi55, BTW). Also if you can get one can you get a smaller/shorter damper than the one in the picture?

Problem seems to surround the water pump this sticks out, the pulley is just loosely fitted at the moment, I've a new pulley due from ebay so will fudge something soon to align them.

Accepting the engine will rock side to side, just how close up to the rack is safe to go ?