Boot Installation

[bogster]

I've just finished fitting the boot and bonnet to my De Dion. However the boot does not seem to fit very well. If I bring the center of the boot up flush with the top of the body the top corners of the boot are still about 10mm below the top of the body. The rest of the boot seems to be okay. It is as if there is too much curvature in the boot door. Anyone have the same problem.

Also I've notice since getting the body that there are a lot of chips, scratches etc. One of the door edges in particular is chipped quite badly. Is this normal when you get a fibreglass body? I'm glad I wasn't relying on the gel coat for a finish as the body will need a lot of atttention as far as fixing chips scratches etc.

[BILKO]

HI
MY BOOT WAS THE SAME, BUT IT WAS FINE ONCE THE RUBBER BOOT SEAL WAS FITTED. MY DOORS WHERE ALSO CHIPPED AROUND THE EDGES BUT THE PAINTER SORTED THEM WITH NO PROBS :thumb: .
GOOD LUCK

[craggle]

Much the same thing here as well.

My boot lid and bonet had too much curve for the body. The bonet I straightened by cutting the strengthening rib in 3 places and the clamping to a piece of wood to flaten the bonet. I the filled the cuts in again with fibreglass mat and resin. The boot lid is still curved though. I will let the body shop sort that one when I get it painted.

Chips and marks in the body are the norm by the sounds of it. I too wouldn't be impressed if i'd paid extra for the coloured gel coat finish.

Craig.

[madjohnny]

Craig, I paid the extra to have mine in black. What a bl**dy waste of money that was. From the piccies I've seen of your car, my gel coat looks worse than yours if that's any comfort.

On the boot front, mines exactly same, as Craig says hopefully let the bodyshop guys sort it out.

[Miket]

Don't take this wrong you DAX guys, but it sounds like there body mould is coming to the end of its life.

One company, I'm not going to mention for obvious reasons have recenty re-newed there body mould. :thumb:

[dave]

My thoughts exactly Mike!

I think Dax are well over due for a new body mould too, but the factory don't seem too concerned as pretty much all their customers go for a painted finish....................Oh how I wish I could sell cars in Gel coat rather than paint, that would be one less pain in the a55 supplier I wouldn't have to deal with.

[simon lee]

Bogster,

the Dax fix to your problem is to pack the boot lip so that the boot lid, when shut, is flush with the body. Then heat up the corners of the boot. The lamps that the painters use to dry the paint with are ideal. (A few hours under those should do it) Allow to cool and re check the fit. This process worked very well on mine and if you fit the correct boot seal you shouldn't have any problems. :thumb:

[bogster]

Simon

Seems a reasonable idea. I'll plan to use it. These lights, are they actually heat lamps, do you get them at tool hire shops?

Thanks

[BenBaron]

mmmmm didnt think of doing that, I was almost at the stage of filler on the back edge of the boot.
How did you keep it under stress to bend it outwards? I see the packing option but Ive got about 1cm to bring it out, Im thinking use the lock? and give it a good shove to bend it initially?

[dave]

Hi Ben.
If you just shove GRP it will either spring back to exactly the same position or it will crack, it behaves very differently to metal.
First fit the boot rubber and the lock and then see where things lie.
Most of the problems here are caused by the gas rams, The grp (Over time) will change shape if left under pressure, the gas rams will do this, that is why quite often some additional packing is needed under the lip on the seal at the top corners.
Good luck.