Clutch Adjustment

[SJ]

I've filled up the master cylinder and bled the clutch but I don't appear to be getting the full travel on the clutch pedal. There's no physical obstruction with the pedal action that I can detect.

Once the clutch slave is adjusted to touch the back of the clutch bar the first depression goes as expected all the way to the floor. However, once the pedal is depressed a few times its free travel shortens to only about half normal. I've tried adjusting the mechanisms at both the slave and the clutch master cylinder but to no effect.

Grateful for any pointers or set up tips.

Thanks

SJ

[ian]

Hi there SJ. My first thought was that he slot in the bulkhead above the clutch pedal may not have been long enough to allow full enough travel of the pedal. But if it worked OK on the first depression of the pedal that shouldn't be the case. The only other thing I can think of is that air must be getting in somewhere. If it works OK on first push and then gets worse, air could well be leaking in. Are you sure that the slave piston isn't pushing out of the slave cylinder too far? If air is getting in then hydraulic fluid must be getting out - check for leaks. Other than that, make sure all mechanical things are correct, eg no slack in clutch arm to slave piston rod, pivot point, pedal linkages etc. etc. Good luck. Ian.

[TINKA]

Could it be that the pedal is not fully returning to the home position and there fore not releasing the valve inside the master cylinder. Try getting to the point where it is ready to work and then after each depression make sure the pedal is fully returned to the home position before you depress it again and see if this cures it , if it does you will need a slightly stronger spring on it to return it to the proper position after each time you have depressed it. If this has no effect then I am afraid I can't think of anything else. HTH

[wilf]

Sounds as tho' you may have some mechanical binding between the pedal and the master cylinder pushrod. Have a good look at the point where the clevis joins the the pedal.

Secondly - what are the master and slave cylinder diameters? Is the slave cylinder running out of travel?

[dave]

Hi SJ.
Is your clutch slave cylinder the new one from Repower?
If so it might be because the angle that the slave cylinder runs at is not perfect for the clutch fiork and the piston retainer washer is rubbing on the side of the push rod and you operate the pedal and restricting its return travel.
To cure this you may need to loosen the alloy horse shoe clamp around the slave cylinder and place some shims between the back of the cylinder and its mounting bracket (1-2mm) then clamp up tight again and re try the pedal.
I've had this problem loads of times and this has been the cure.



If you don't have the slave cylinder from Repower you're f***ed! ;o)

[SJ]

Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions. Dave, I have got the Repower clutch slave so I've shimmed it as recommended... sadly the problem is still there.

I think the problem lies with the clutch set up. Should the clutch bar always be under a return pressure? Mine isn't, except for the last part of its travel. I think this is leading to the problem. As you can tell the inner workings of the clutch is a bit of a black art to me.

The englne, clutch and bellhousing was assembled by Repower. I mated it up with a Tremec box by simply aligning the spline and tightening the bolts. Have I missed something???

Thanks for your continued support.

SJ

[dave]

"Clutch bar" ? Which bit are you refering to? Is it either:-

Clutch fork/arm (Sticks out of the bell housing)
The slave cylinder push rod (Pushes the clutch fork).

All of any pressure pushing the fork backwards is caused by the actual clutch itself, this is the same pressure that grips the engine to the transmission and gives the poer to the wheels.
I'm having trouble following where things are going wrong for you.

[Purple AK]

SJ.
The release arm should be under constant return pressure from the fingers of the clutch cover except for a mm or so of freeplay. The fact that you have loads of freeplay indicates either, The pushrod is too short or maladjusted, The release fork pivot is too short or maladjusted, or the release bearing has jumped off it's locating tabs on the fork. (The last 2 options will require the gearbox to be removed to sort) OR you have a mismatch of some of the above components (unlikely) Have a word with Brian at Repower, He should be able to put you right.

[SJ]

Chris/Dave,

Sorry for the bad description. It's the Clutch fork that has the free-play. In which case I guess it's separating the gearbox and engine to sort out? Before I do this, does anyone by chance have a photo of the clutch slave/Clutch fork in position so I can just check I haven't done something stupid.

Thanks

SJ

[dave]

Sorry M8, no pictures. There are a number of variables to take into consideration but usually if the engine and gearbox are all from Repower they usually go to gether no problem.
I thibnk a call the Brian at Repower is on the cards.