Roll Bars with Rear stays

[Nigel Foster]

Has any one experienced trouble fitting these and had to use a Ratchet and Harness to get the fit. . Even worse for the rear stay . One side went in beautifully and the other needs some 'Assistance' This seems a bit Heath Robinson given the cost of the items I dont mind whilst its in Gel coat but its gonna be a nightmare when the Expensive paint is on

[Nobby]

Nigel, I had problems with the passenger side on mine. I couldnt get the seat belt bolt through the bracket into the threads beneath. In the end I had to slot the rear stay hole slightly as it didn't line up with the hole in the bracket underneath the fibreglass. Both sides were a tight fit to insert and the ony way I can get them out is with an engine hoist. I found a bit of engine oil on the legs and rubber grommet eased things a bit.

Good luck

[BenBaron]

Drivers side, couldnt get the seat belt both though with the stainless plate below on, had to rind down the spacer a little way to get the bolt in a few thread then bobs your uncle.

Would give it much marks for the chrome plating though, rusty as hell already(and Im not even on the road yet), Im gunna have to have it re-cromed its that bad

[JonnyT]

I had problems getting these in too - they are not easy. In the end I took a two pronged approach. Elongated the hole a little with a windy (the seat belt mountings are more than adeqaute to cover the slightly slotted hole). You may find that you have to do this anyway to get the plastic cover on.

Once the hole was big enough to allow the plastic cover to move freely (and the holes were not too far away from where they should be) I inserted the legs into the chassis holes and then with a SMALL ratchet strap around the legs and the rear stay gently eased the rear stay into its final position. Although it seems a long way out, once the hole has been elongated it was actually only about 2mm, the depth of the thread. Do however be careful with the strap!

As for the chroming - mine have been done twice now and still rusting - am very tempted to get my money back and get some s/s ones made up which I suspect would be no more expensive.

[craggle]

I guess I got lucky as mine fitted perfectly and all the holes lined up.

As for the chrome plating it is a bit suspect, Especially round the welds.
I did contact Shinybitz for Stainless ones but he was far too busy at the time to make them in the short notice I wanted.
If they need replacing they will be done in stainless, As long as I can find someone who will curve the tube to the correct radius. The rest I can make and weld myself.

Craig.

[wsnaith]

I rang Gary at DJ Sportscars on Friday when mine arrived

The passenger side was about 5mm out and could be 'forced' in

The drivers side was over 15mm out and I couldn't get it any way near

Gary's advice was to use a length of rope and tighten with screw driver and once in lever the rear stay with a length of wood until you can get the thread started

easy enough without the body on but an accident waiting to happen once the body is on and painted!

Warren

[john w]

Hi Nigel

I have had my own forming tooling made as I am making my own in stainless as the fit is poor & the chrome is crap, if they work out ok I think I may start producing them.

John

[Sparticus]

Was considering the dax roll bars but now having second thoughts after what you guys have been saying. How much do Shinybitz charge for a pair of stainless ones and what are the finish like?

Si

[Nigel Foster]

Originally Posted by Sparticus

Was considering the dax roll bars but now having second thoughts after what you guys have been saying. How much do Shinybitz charge for a pair of stainless ones and what are the finish like?

Si

I dunno why I am suprised , given the 'one or two' problems experienced to date , just maybe expected more for the Thick end of £34K when complete

[Nigel Foster]

Originally Posted by wsnaith

I rang Gary at DJ Sportscars on Friday when mine arrived

The passenger side was about 5mm out and could be 'forced' in

The drivers side was over 15mm out and I couldn't get it any way near

Gary's advice was to use a length of rope and tighten with screw driver and once in lever the rear stay with a length of wood until you can get the thread started

easy enough without the body on but an accident waiting to happen once the body is on and painted!

Warren

That is pretty much exactly what i was advised to do . As you say OK before the Shiny stuff is applied but no too clever afterwards