Play in Dax steering rack

[craggle]

Hi All

As most of you will know I have a Dax with the standard XJS suspension. The steering rack on these are a modified unit but I'm not sure what it was from originally. It came in a big Quintin Hazel box with a Dax part number on the end.

I noticed the other day a clonk when changing directions on the steering and during closer inspection I can see the input shaft to the steering rack moving in to the housing when turning left, then when a load gets on it when turning the other way, there is a clonk and the shaft jumps up from the housing by about 1-2mm. It seems to do this at any Position of the steering.

I have only covered 400 miles in the car and would have hoped it would last longer than this. Anyone else seen this or know of a way of adjusting them to remove play?

I will speak to Dax when I get a chance.

Craig.

[cliffords]

Craig

I have exactly the same on my AK supplied Rack. also brand new(reconditioned0 and fixed on the chassis when I picked it up.
I am not even on the road and I have this clonk when changing direction from one side to the other

I had decided it was supposed to be there.

You have passed an MOT and an SVA with this ?

[madjohnny]

Craig as far as I'm aware it is a modified MG item although I don't know which bit is modified, probably the track rods on the end.

[dave]

The Dax rack is a "Bitsa".
Parts from different cars mated together to get the right lengths. The input casing is from a Hilman/Talbot/Peugeot but with different other bits.
Some of the racks can be adjusted but give Dax a call first to check.

[craggle]

I have just finished modifying the steering rack so thought I might let you know what I did.

As the rack is now over 5 years old as it was one of the first things I brought I didn't try contacting Dax as I guessed it would be well out of warranty and they would probably try to sell me a new one.

Faced with these options and the crap weather, I thought I would remove the steering rack and investigate. It seems that the entire thing is pressed together then the aluminium housing is peened over in places to keep it all together.
With the rack on the bench I could quite easily move the input shaft in and out of the housing with a rubber mallet.
Turning the rack over reveals a steel diameter that seems to butt up against the bottom of the input shaft. I knocked this down with a punch so it touched the input shaft then measured the depth of the recess, Then knocked the input shaft back down and this steel diameter also moved with it.
What I did in the end was tap the aluminium hole to 3/8 BSP and screwed in a pipe connector fitting with a washer under it to push the steel diameter downwards. A bit of preload on it and some thread lock will hopefully see it stay tight.

No sign of any movement now or clonking.

I will get the black paint out some time and touch up the bits I cleaned.

Photos below.

[dave]

Hi Craig,
Later racks have a large grub screw in there which has the case peened over to lock it into position. Some of these grub screws are plastic and break if you try to tighten them further. I think (Haven't looked yet) the latest ones have metal grub screws.

All.
Do not tackle this job willy nilly, it is a critical part of the steering and a mistake might hurt.( Craig seems to have it sussed.)

[craggle]

Couldn't agree more Dave.

Don't try this unless you know what you doing. Luckily I have access to loads of special taps and large milling machines and 20 years of engineering machining and design behind me.

I couldn't find any bolts or grub screws big enough to do this so the 3/8 BSP was the best I could do.

Craig.