Adhesive

[lomondbob]

The body goes on tomorrow night for keeps! I plan to use Sikoflex rather than Wurth. If anyone knows why I shouldn't use it then please speak out now! Thanks.


Bob Sharp

[bogster]

Originally Posted by lomondbob

The body goes on tomorrow night for keeps! I plan to use Sikoflex rather than Wurth. If anyone knows why I shouldn't use it then please speak out now! Thanks.


Bob Sharp

Hi Bob,

Whats your reason for not using the recommended adhesive? I used Wurth and it worked perfectly. It gives you plenty of time to adjust before it sets. And once Wurth is set there is no doubts about it coming apart.

I don't know the specification on Sikoflex but I would recommend you make sure it doesn't set quick are you will be in a world of sh*t.

[madjohnny]

I used this on my Dax, never had any problems to date and it's cheaper.

I've heard lots of people say they have used this as opposed to WURTH.

[Miket]

Sikoflex will be fine, I've used in on 3 builds and it takes between 3 to 5 hours to tack dry depending on temperature.

[craggle]

Not sure how far along you are with this but this is what I did.

Fit the body without the adhesive and align and clamp in place. Drill all the bolt holes and rivet holes to attach the body to the chassis. Make sure the body does not move during this process by placing bolts and rivets in the holes as you go.

Remove body and clean all swarf and burrs from the holes, Apply glue and re-fit body. Attach using rivets and bolts where possible. Dont forget at least 2 big bolts each side through the scuttle hoop steel plate into the angles on the side of the chassis.

It took me 2 entire evenings to drill all the fixing holes so it a good job I did it the way I did otherwise the glue would have dried long before all the bolts were fitted.

Leave the powder coat in place on the chassis. Some people remove it where the glue is but I have never seen the point in damaging the only protection the chassis has against corrosion

Craig.

[southenddave]

Managed to get the body on yesterday with the help of four good mates.
Now it looks like a car rather than a load of bits. With the car clamped in place, I had two people measuring and two drilling so it made the process quite easy, the only ball ache was riveting it to the chassis with two smallish hand riveters. I can hardly move my fingers today and my face aches from all the grinning last night

As for the wurth, it was a bit messy to use and no amount of gloves would stop me from getting it all over my hands

[lomondbob]

Thanks to everyone who replied. Looks like Sikoflex gets the nod. For the unbeleiving, Sikoflex is virtually the same spec as Wurth and is often used for automotive applications. It has a slightly longer hardening time but more than sufficient to get body on and fixed down before it sets. It is a lot cheaper and I used it as it was much quicker to acquire. Incidentally, Wurth were prepared to sell me two cartridges for about £38! Two sikoflext cost me £16.

Craig re your instructions. I did exactly as you mentioned. I have drilled three holes throught the scuttle hoop and also put two M8 bolts through the footwells. Need two on the driver's side anyway to help fix the pedal box. I have also rivetted and bolted (single M10) the two rear horns to the body. The Dax manual just says apply adhesive but I felt much happier adding the mechanical bits too. Body fixing now delayed by one day as daughter's car failed it MOT so its back to working on a regular car tonight.

[bogster]

Originally Posted by lomondbob

Thanks to everyone who replied. Looks like Sikoflex gets the nod. For the unbeleiving, Sikoflex is virtually the same spec as Wurth and is often used for automotive applications. It has a slightly longer hardening time but more than sufficient to get body on and fixed down before it sets. It is a lot cheaper and I used it as it was much quicker to acquire. Incidentally, Wurth were prepared to sell me two cartridges for about £38! Two sikoflext cost me £16.

Craig re your instructions. I did exactly as you mentioned. I have drilled three holes throught the scuttle hoop and also put two M8 bolts through the footwells. Need two on the driver's side anyway to help fix the pedal box. I have also rivetted and bolted (single M10) the two rear horns to the body. The Dax manual just says apply adhesive but I felt much happier adding the mechanical bits too. Body fixing now delayed by one day as daughter's car failed it MOT so its back to working on a regular car tonight.

Good luck to you, however I'd be careful about using something primarily because it is cheaper.......You get what you pay for.

[craggle]

Sounds good Bob

I too drilled and riveted through the floor of the boot into the chassis. Must admit though I didn't look that closely at the build manual to notice it didn't say about the fixings.

I did find that the supplied big head rivets were a bit short in places due to the thickness of the fibreglass. My local tractor spares supplier had some big head rivets 1/4" longer than the Dax supplied ones which solved the problem.

Craig.