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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 28-08-07, 12:54 PM
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handling in corners

After having driven the first few 100miles with great care, this weekend I tried to take a few corners at greater speeds.

What I notices was that I really have to force the car around the corner, it really wants to go straight and it take a lot of muscle to turn the wheel. First mistake I made was letting go of the power, which of course does not help.

Also recently I drove a TVR Griff 500 from a friend of mine and I steered like a razor, so I'm a little disappointed in the handling of the Dax.

Is this the normal handling or could the camber/castor/toe settings be the problem?

Thanks
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Old 28-08-07, 01:27 PM
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Don't compair it with another type of car!
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 28-08-07, 01:39 PM
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Having the car properly set up by someone like Cheng Lim can make a huge difference.
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Old 28-08-07, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra power View Post
After having driven the first few 100miles with great care, this weekend I tried to take a few corners at greater speeds.

What I notices was that I really have to force the car around the corner, it really wants to go straight and it take a lot of muscle to turn the wheel. First mistake I made was letting go of the power, which of course does not help.

Also recently I drove a TVR Griff 500 from a friend of mine and I steered like a razor, so I'm a little disappointed in the handling of the Dax.

Is this the normal handling or could the camber/castor/toe settings be the problem?

Thanks
Sounds predominantly like your castor setting is wrong; your local Dax agent, John Kox is very helpful (and reasonable prices too), as Wilf suggests a proper set up should fix it. If you need John Kox's contact info let me know.
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Old 28-08-07, 04:32 PM
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Buy a GD
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 28-08-07, 04:47 PM
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Do you have LSD or open diff? I noticed a tendancy for my dax to want to go straingt on through bends, till I had the LSD de rated, which improved things vastly.

Didnt notice much at low speeds, just higher speed
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 29-08-07, 08:28 AM
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The castor/camber/toe is all set to dax specifications, but it might be wise to recheck.

I have a limited slip diff, what do you mean with you had the LSD de rated?
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Old 29-08-07, 08:46 AM
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The LSD is designed for a Jaguar (heavier as our cobra) so the LSD will not work optimal for our Daxes. It is wise (but expensive) to rehaul the total diff and also change the setting of the diff for the lower weight of our Daxes.

Regards,
Skorpion.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 29-08-07, 09:34 AM
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THe jag diff can be modified to provide a less aggressive LSd action, meaning the wheels will slip a little more easily, rather than both wanting to push ahead in a straight line all the time.

The 2 tonne jag, will overcome the jag LSD , whereas a 1 tonne cob wont. When I had the diff refurbished, I had the LSD reducedabout 50%, which worked very well for a road car. Perhaps a track car would not lower as much, but it worked for me.

Thing there is a LSD clutch pack in the diff, but I have no idea how it is modified, I just "paid a chap to do it".

Russell Ram I know has done this work for others, and would be probably the best person to advise
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 29-08-07, 10:42 AM
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thanks, something to think about when I refurb the diff.

Regards

Patrick
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