Questions arising

[Nobby]

Originally Posted by andicole0

Another check on the diff.

With the limited shims I have I can get the prop shaft end to 8.496" and the back to 8.514". The chassis is 8.500".

Should I be looking for a .004 shim for the front and a .062 shim for the back? If so where do I get these shims from?

At least it's going in the right direction now.

Cheers.

Andi.

Andi, you can make shims out of bits of ally or steel drinks cans or buy them from Jag or wards etc. After trial fitting and adding more can shims I ended up with 5 pieces of can on each side. I measured the thickness of them added together and then made a sigle shim out of ally plate to the same thickness. Worked a treat. I had the help (read instruction ) of Sidecarbod to do this. All worked out a treat in the end. The hard bit is getting the pivot brackets bolted on and tightened up whilst still allowing the shaft to slide through all the components and into the front chassis mounting.

Good luck

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by Nobby

Andi, you can make shims out of bits of ally or steel drinks cans or buy them from Jag or wards etc. After trial fitting and adding more can shims I ended up with 5 pieces of can on each side. I measured the thickness of them added together and then made a sigle shim out of ally plate to the same thickness. Worked a treat. I had the help (read instruction )

Good luck

I did not do much really other than complain that they did not look nice enough!

Just to be clear though, the final shims must not be made of ali, they must be steel!

One other tip that is sort of in the Dax manual but not quite how we did it is that its worth making a template out of a strip of ali that replicates the exactly the chassis where the long bolts go through the chassis. The holes in the plate need to be just the right size and their distance apart needs to be right. You can then use this to check that the diff will actually fit onto the car without having to lift and support the diff under the car. Nicks diff weighed about the same as my entire Sumo and we would have been annoyed if the holes hadn't lined up!

Pete

[andicole0]

Thanks guys, I now have 8.505 at the chassis end of the diff and 8.564 at the back. Should I attempt to get the back to be closer to the +0.076" than the manual suggests, I'm not planning to btw.

Andi.

[Nobby]

Originally Posted by andicole0

Thanks guys, I now have 8.505 at the chassis end of the diff and 8.564 at the back. Should I attempt to get the back to be closer to the +0.076" than the manual suggests, I'm not planning to btw.

Andi.

You could try!! but the whole point of the excercise is to get the pivot shaft through the front chassis mounting holes and then the rear spreader plate whilst the pivot bracket is tightly bolted up to the diff. The Dax measurements arent exact - as we found out!

As Pete said - he made up a template for the front pivot shaft mounting holes and we used the Dax supplied spreader plate as the rear measurement.
Shimmed up the Pivot bracket, Tightened the mounting bolts and wire locked them then offered it up to the chassis. It needed a bit of persuasion but the shaft went in after a few er - taps!!

I found the really frustrating bit was to hold all 22 components in place while driving the shaft through. 7 attempts I think before it all went together.

Good luck. Perhaps Dave B can suggest an easier way of doing this?? He must have done a few hundred in his time?

[andicole0]

Originally Posted by Nobby

You could try!! but the whole point of the excercise is to get the pivot shaft through the front chassis mounting holes and then the rear spreader plate whilst the pivot bracket is tightly bolted up to the diff. The Dax measurements arent exact - as we found out!

As Pete said - he made up a template for the front pivot shaft mounting holes and we used the Dax supplied spreader plate as the rear measurement.
Shimmed up the Pivot bracket, Tightened the mounting bolts and wire locked them then offered it up to the chassis. It needed a bit of persuasion but the shaft went in after a few er - taps!!

I found the really frustrating bit was to hold all 22 components in place while driving the shaft through. 7 attempts I think before it all went together.

Good luck. Perhaps Dave B can suggest an easier way of doing this?? He must have done a few hundred in his time?

OK, I'm maybe not seeing the problem yet then. The chassis holes are 8.500 apart, inside to inside, the shafts coming out of the diff are 8.505 apart and 0.059 wider at the rear giving some toe in. At the moment I can't see shafts not going into the chassis.

Maybe I'll just try offering up the diff as it is now.

Cheers.

Andi.

[Nobby]

Originally Posted by andicole0

OK, I'm maybe not seeing the problem yet then. The chassis holes are 8.500 apart, inside to inside, the shafts coming out of the diff are 8.505 apart and 0.059 wider at the rear giving some toe in. At the moment I can't see shafts not going into the chassis.

Maybe I'll just try offering up the diff as it is now.

Cheers.

Andi.

You could try shimming 0.0295 on each side (half of 0.059). Put it all together and try and install that? If the measurements are accurate it'll work. It didn't with me as the holes must have been slightly out. Hence the templates.

Cheers

[andicole0]

Well the back axle is all going back together now, thanks for the help, I even tested it in the chassis and it will fit Buot a wheeled trolley with two scissor jacks to lift it into place so I should manage on my own.

I can't find a torque setting for the rear disk nuts, is there one, or, as they are nylocs do they just needs to be tight!

Andi.

[Nobby]

Originally Posted by andicole0

Well the back axle is all going back together now, thanks for the help, I even tested it in the chassis and it will fit Buot a wheeled trolley with two scissor jacks to lift it into place so I should manage on my own.

I can't find a torque setting for the rear disk nuts, is there one, or, as they are nylocs do they just needs to be tight!

Andi.

Andi, Are you talking about the nuts that hold the wishbones and rear disks to the Diff studs? If so DON'T use Nylocs. The Jag nuts are solid metal with a deformable locking groove in the head. This is because nylocs could melt as the brake disks heat everything up. If this happened the nuts won't have anything locking them on. I know it's unlikely but better safe than sorry. I nearly did the same thing but was told off by Dax who spotted it luckily when doing ride height etc. Wards sell them.

cheers

[Nobby]

Originally Posted by andicole0

Well the back axle is all going back together now, thanks for the help, I even tested it in the chassis and it will fit Buot a wheeled trolley with two scissor jacks to lift it into place so I should manage on my own.

I can't find a torque setting for the rear disk nuts, is there one, or, as they are nylocs do they just needs to be tight!

Andi.

Andi, sorry last post should say Drive Shaft and not Wishbone.

The Haynes manual states 50ft/lbs for the driveshaft flange nuts

[andicole0]

So that's what they mean by self locking nuts. There were Nylocs on there when I started so I was about to put some new ones on.

I've never had much luck getting in touch with Wards.

Would it be one of these?

Andi.