DAX - Handbrake and diff leaks

[nearly thers]

Originally Posted by Neil O

Another tip.
Once you have got the handbrake working again, don't use it.
It will be pretty pathetic soon after you start to use it, and will squeak annoyingly, so save it for special occaisions like hill starts. When parking, just leave it in gear.

Can only agree with Neil, my pads are new and after applying the handbrake you are left with an annoying squeak for a good while. I hope one day it will bed in, the car has only done 120 miles. As for taking the diff out to do the pads, forget it. Take the tunnel rear cover off and get your pinkies in there. Remove the handbrake calliper from each side as a whole assembly. Strip them down and use some good hi temp copper grease to lubricate inside as you put them back together.

The brake bleeding tip is one you will regret not doing, so do it now! The brakes are a pain to bleed otherwise.

Neil

[TED the DAX]

Brilliant. Thanks for the tips. I know how my weekend will be spent.

If anyone has a pic of the service holes that Mikey mentions, that would be helpful.

Cheers,
Mark

[slogger]

Originally Posted by TED the DAX

Brilliant. Thanks for the tips. I know how my weekend will be spent.

If anyone has a pic of the service holes that Mikey mentions, that would be helpful.

Cheers,
Mark

Sorry to pee on your bonfire Ted, but you will find your car is different to these guys. Your tunnel will be in one piece not split into two so you will need to remove at least one seat, the seat belts and you may have a pig of a job getting the tunnel out from under the dash so steering wheel off and four nuts that hold the dash. Some cars like mine also have the heater fixed to the tunnel so this will need to be drained.

Once in there you can get the hand brake pivot pins out and remove the hand brake components. Make sure you set the return springs and seat the pad and fixing bolt correctly otherwise the pads can be ejected and will end up where they ain't wanted! A very small amount of copper slip on the back of the pad will help with any running squeaking.

At least you haven't the back bone brace in the way as the others have!
XJ hand brake will hold the car if setup, but handbrake turns are unlikely and will destroy the pads as does applying the handbrake while moving. A big no no.

Best of luck.

[Neil O]

Originally Posted by slogger

and will destroy the pads as does applying the handbrake while moving. A big no no.

or leaving the handbrake on while driving away.........

The fly off handbrake is easily left on, if only partly.

The squeak stops after a while, then you'll use the handbrake again and back it will come.

If you can, you may want to cut the tunnel part way along and make brackets/joints to reconnect rather than taking out the heater etc.
Also, if you're in there anyway, maybe think about adding the backbone brace. Someone here will have a picture or two of this area. I'm not sure if it can be done with the body on, does anyone have any thoughts?

[mikey]

For those who wish to get rid of the squeak its actually very easy. You file an angle at the ege of the pad surface contacting the disk (ie just take the edge of it). This is a technique as old as the ark and nearly as old as Wilf and is benefital on all pads and shoes not just the handbrake.

Regards
Mike

[wilf]

Ah Grasshopper - you have learned well, and are nearly ready to face the world................

[mikey]

Originally Posted by wilf

Ah Grasshopper - you have learned well, and are nearly ready to face the world................

But is the world ready to face me. Could be a good sequal to one of the horror movies.

Mike

[tsearle]

This is good timming for me, I have the exact same squeak you are talking about, only done 10 miles in the car. I will first stop using the handbrake and next chance will file the pads when I work out how to get them out.

[TINKA]

Originally Posted by tsearle

This is good timming for me, I have the exact same squeak you are talking about, only done 10 miles in the car. I will first stop using the handbrake and next chance will file the pads when I work out how to get them out.

If it squeals after applying the hand brake it sounds like you have not adjusted the spring fork properly that holds (supposed to hold) the pads just off the disks when the hand brake is released. Mine never squeaks but I do agree with Neil Wilf Mike and others not to use the hand brake unless you have to.

[TINKA]

Forgot to say the diff leak might be a little more difficult. The first diff I had fitted in my car had the original leather seal in the front and these are well known to weep slightly and there is no way to cure this except get it converted to the modern seal but this is not just a straight swap I think there is a bit of machining to do to it. In the end I got Russell Ram as he posts on this site to rebuild the diff and it has never leaked since plus it is so much nicer to drive now as Russell eliminated as much of the lash in it as you are allowed to do. Top job.