DAX - Handbrake and diff leaks

[TED the DAX]

Hi All,
I'm a newbie, so excuse me if these questions are answered elsewhere.
I've just bought a Tojeiro that was built between 90-92. It goes really well, but I have a couple issues I need some guidance with.

Firstly the handbrake barely holds the car. On reading the file of reciepts I have noticed that to get it throught the last MOT a garage had to modify the handbrake cable because 'the handbrake pads are worn out but replacement would require an extensive strip down'. Can anyone tell me what is involved in replacing the handbrake pads?

Secondly, I have noticed oil weeping from the jag rear diff. Again, on reading the file I have with the car this was observed some years ago as coming from the oil seal where the prop shaft connects. How big a job is it to replace this? How do I check the oil level? What oil should I use?

I understand that the rear diff and brakes came from a series 2 XJ6.

Thanks,
Mark

[mikey]

Originally Posted by TED the DAX

Hi All,
I'm a newbie, so excuse me if these questions are answered elsewhere.
I've just bought a Tojeiro that was built between 90-92. It goes really well, but I have a couple issues I need some guidance with.

Firstly the handbrake barely holds the car. On reading the file of reciepts I have noticed that to get it throught the last MOT a garage had to modify the handbrake cable because 'the handbrake pads are worn out but replacement would require an extensive strip down'. Can anyone tell me what is involved in replacing the handbrake pads?

Secondly, I have noticed oil weeping from the jag rear diff. Again, on reading the file I have with the car this was observed some years ago as coming from the oil seal where the prop shaft connects. How big a job is it to replace this? How do I check the oil level? What oil should I use?

I understand that the rear diff and brakes came from a series 2 XJ6.

Thanks,
Mark

Not difficult at all exept teh best way is to take the tunnel out to get access to the inboard disks. Once in it is a 15 minute jobby if you have the handbbo, although its that ovious you dont need it. Dont forget to clean and lubricate tthe excellent self adjusting system and wind it out so that the new pads fit. Check the ratchet on the self adjustment works.

The leak at the propshaft will either be the seal or the lack of loctite between the meshing faces of the splines on the flange/diff input.

Both are ultra easy to sort but take note if it is the latter there is a very important torque setting for the nut that secures the flange. If you overtighten the nut it will crush a washer that is designed to crush a certain amount only. If you go too far its a diff strip jobby.

Get hold of a manual and you will see how easy both jobs are. An afternoon will do both depending on how easy it is to get your tunnel out.

Mike

[andicole0]

Hi Mark,

Firstly welcome.

I'm just going over my Dax on return from paint and have just been looking at the handbrake pads.

Assuming you have a standard chassis (not a De Dijon) you have in board brakes with seperate handbrake pads. The Jaguar manual says they should never need replacing !! And it does look like they are impossible to get to. With the car up high enough, the wheels off and some small dextrous hands it might just be possible to replace them in situ. I've just adjusted them in that position. It would help also if you have access to the top of the rear axle from inside the car.

However it would a lot easier to remove the rear axle which would also let you get a better look at the diff.

As for diff oil, that depends on what diff you have, the Powerloc diffs require Limited Slip oil usually labelled as LS Other wise it's normal diff oil I believe.

The diff should have one or two aluminium tags one tag giving the gear ratio 3.54 for example the saying PL if it is as a limited slip diff. Filling up is simply a matter of putting oil in until it starts to exit the filler hole. If oil is leaking badly the diff may need to be remanufactured or replaced, which means removing the rear axle at which time you can easily replac the hand brake pads.

I'll see if I've got some pictures and post them later.

Andi.

[TED the DAX]

Thanks Mike. A great relief! i'll take a look at removing the tunnel....

Where you say manual, I guess you mean something like a Haynes workshop manual for the Jag?

Thx,
Mark

[TED the DAX]

I've now seen the post from Andi. My hands are not small!

Can this be done through the tunnel? Or do I need to remove the diff?

How big a job is it to remove the diff?

Thx......

[andicole0]

Pic of my axle. The handbrake pads come off after undoing the two small bolts, then fold over to remove hooks from slots.

I think it should be possible from inside, I'll take a pick of what mine looks like now.

Andi.

[andicole0]

I think if you can get to those two bolts the clip will come off and the handbrake caliper should come out too.

Andi.

[mikey]

What you do is remove the tunnel and you will have the hole on the back panel looking at the diff. Basically you cut a hole either side of that hole aout4" x 5" from memory to coincide with the calipers. When you have completed the job, two slightly larger oblong covers made out of aluminium are used to close the holes up to the tunnel hole (with a bit of silicone sealer. The ridge created by the aluminium thickness is easily taken up by the sealing foam strip on the tunnel soffit.

The good thing is that this becomes a service point for the future.

Now here is a good tip if you are in there. Because it is a pig dog rat of a job to bleed your back brakes if you have the tunnel in place. Where the bleed nipple is on one of the calipers, take this out and attach a length of brake pipe that climbs to the wheel arch/boot chasis rail and attach a bleed nipple point (a bit like the one you use for the in line brake switch). It means that in future to bleed the rear brakes, all you have to do is jack the car up at that wheel or at the very most remove that wheel to get access. Trust me its that good a tip that when you come to have to bleed you will be that chuffed that you did it you will probably get amorous with the wife from pure joy.

All the best.

Mike

[andicole0]

Originally Posted by mikey

SNIP

Now here is a good tip if you are in there. Because it is a pig dog rat of a job to bleed your back brakes if you have the tunnel in place. Where the bleed nipple is on one of the calipers, take this out and attach a length of brake pipe that climbs to the wheel arch/boot chasis rail and attach a bleed nipple point (a bit like the one you use for the in line brake switch). It means that in future to bleed the rear brakes, all you have to do is jack the car up at that wheel or at the very most remove that wheel to get access. Trust me its that good a tip that when you come to have to bleed you will be that chuffed that you did it you will probably get amorous with the wife from pure joy.

All the best.

Mike

What a great tip, I'm going to do that straight away!

[Neil O]

Another tip.
Once you have got the handbrake working again, don't use it.
It will be pretty pathetic soon after you start to use it, and will squeak annoyingly, so save it for special occaisions like hill starts. When parking, just leave it in gear.