Dax Chassis Types

[Elmo]

I am going to look at a ’89 build Dax Cobra later this week and wondered if anyone can advise me how to identify what model of chassis the car is built on.

Also can anyone advise me if there are any common problems associated with a Dax of this age and what pitfalls to look out for?

Any advice what be gratefully appreciated

Elmo
:tu

[mclark]

Hi Elmo,

Get the chassis number and Dax will be able to tell you what the donor vehicle was and also what engine it was fitted with.

Regards

Michael

[wires]

Dear Elmo,

Don't know how much I can help, apart from that my Dax Cobra (which I bought in August, 2003) was registered on 8th November, 1991 and is chassis number 045, with a Rover V8 engine. It should not have had too many faults because it had only done 3,191 miles, 60 in the last six years. However that in itself was also the cause of a few problems :
1. The (Jaguar) rear calipers had seized - replaced with recon. units from Classic Spares (Jag specialists) of Waltham Cross for £108 and brake pads for £12 (all plus VAT).
2a. Fuel troubles - The electric pump needed replacing, partly because the tank was full of c**p. Therefore I also had to drain the tank.
2b. Fuel troubles - The Holley carb. leaked from every available orifice, gasket, and seal. No major hassle, rebuilt carb using comprehensive kit from Real Steel for £27.22 incl. delivery and VAT. Worked from parts diagram etc. downloaded from 'net, but now have Holley manual !

Besides that, a few minor electrical problems (I ended up rewiring the vehicle)and working out where everything comes from (e.g. Triumph Dolomite steering column.

However overall it has been fantastically worthwhile - I just love the car. It seems alot easier to work on than my MGB, and goes slightly better too.

Of course if it has done a reasonable mileage you should not have these sorts of teething troubles.

I got very little documentation with my car, so don't yet know the real state of the engine, front hubs, rear UJs, and diff. and I would guess that these are the things to watch out for on higher mileage components. All was well greased on my car but I do get a couple of "clonks" from the rear end and I suspect that these are either UJs or diff.

One major drawback on my car is the Q registration and it's obviously best to get a proper age-related plate with the vehicle. However I paid £7,800 and have since spent about £600 to get it reasonable (still needs a bit of paintwork).

Best of luck Elmo.

Cheers, Wires:tu

[Elmo]

To Michael & Wires

Many thanks chaps for the prompt responses and I have taken on board your comments.

Latest update is that I test drove the car today and am please to say that I am now the proud (if slightly out of pocket) owner of the ’89 build dax.

Once again thanks for the advice, no doubt there will be many more questions over the next few weeks/months/years.

PS: Wifey is not happy

Elmo

[kdavies3]

Trust me the wife will always be unhappy , new furniture VS Cobra?

http://animatedgif.net/flags/-flags-uncat/Wales.gif

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales

[wires]

Dear Elmo,

Glad to hear that it worked out. Another convert, eh!

I forgot to tell you that I didn't even test drive my Cobra ( no MOT, tax, insurance etc.). Just saw it and then heard the engine start up - done deal.

All the best,

Wires

[BenBaron]

Good on ya Elmo!!!:tu

[Elmo]

Hi Ben

You took the words right out of my mouth, still trying to convince the wife that a) We will still go on holiday each year b) I won’t kill myself c) We won’t receive a bill for the breakage of all the neighbours windows.

Elmo

[kirklillis]

"All was well greased on my car but I do get a couple of "clonks" from the rear end and I suspect that these are either UJs or diff."

More than likely to be the radius arms. I have a DAX of the same period, and it doesn't matter what I do I cannot stop the rod eye ends from working loose. It must be the drive train torque that does it.

They are difficult to remove from the car without stripping a lot out, so I might drill through the arms and the rod eye threads and put a locking screw thru'

However, they've been like that since I built the car and I've had mine on the road since '89 and you get used to the 'clonk' but it doesn't seem to do any harm - the only slacken off - they never actually come undone.

Happy motoring!

Kirk

[wires]

Dear Kirk,

Thanks very much for the info. about the radius arms. I'll check mine out.

Cheers,

Wires