Range Rover engine 4.0 V8 ' 96

[Cobrarover]

Good afternoon,

I just bought a Cobra Dax in Holland (ex UK) with the following specs :

Cobra Dax Tojeiro on '77 Jaguar chassis.
Equipped with a rebuilt Range Rover engine 4.0 V8, incl. highlift cam, Offenhauser inlet and Holley carb.
Chromed sidepipes and 17' Hallibrands with 235/255 Toyo's
Mileage : 13.500 miles

I do not have the slightest idea what bhp and torque this Dax has available. Standard is 190 bhp and 320 NM but this is ofcourse upgraded....
Is it 230 or maybe 250 bhp. What can I expect ?

Can anyone say what the difference is between 3.9 and 4.0 blocks ? Is the 4.0 more reliable ?

Look forward to some more info, would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance :thumb:

[stevee8]

The 4.0 has the same displacement as the 3.9 but has stronger crank and cross bolted block amongst other things.

The high lift cam and manifold / carb will probably add something like 40hp to the stock output though this will depend on the condition of the motor as much as any mods which were carried out.

[mr bidd]

Hello, Is your Dax blue/black with diamond chip paint, has it got a cream leather interior with an AC badge actually on the dash and a clear rear wind deflector? If it is it's approximately 245 bhp.

Chris

[David Large]

Cobrarover,

I have a professionally built engine based on the latest 4.0 litre block, with a fast road cam, stage 1 heads. Weber 500 carb on an Edelbrock inlet manifold but with pretty poor headers. On a dyno it showed 240bhp and 250 ft lbs of torque. Don't be flattered by BHP. buy torque.

Hope this gives you an idea of where your engine might be.

Regards,

[Cobrarover]

Originally Posted by mr bidd

Hello, Is your Dax blue/black with diamond chip paint, has it got a cream leather interior with an AC badge actually on the dash and a clear rear wind deflector? If it is it's approximately 245 bhp.

Chris

Well hello there ! By the way my name is Ralph, 39 years old and living close to Utrecht Holland.
So you are the previous owner of my Cobra Dax ? It has indeed a bleu/black diamond chip and cream leather interior etc. F.y.i. I bought it from Dax Benelux (John Kox). He rebuilt it profesionally from RHD to LHD and the new dashboard looks great !
Did you built this Cobra yourself ? It seems to be in real stunning condition
So it is approx. 245 bhp but what about the torque ? What kind of mods have you done...are there any other things that maybe need extra attention ?
It would be nice to hear from you, thanks in advance for your info :thumb:

[Cobrarover]

@ mr bidd

By the way, is it a rebuilt 3.9 or 4.0 engine ?

[Cobrarover]

Hello there,

I have two questions for my Cobra RV8 :

1. My handbrake does not work for the moment. I have only driven it a few times and I probably forgot to loosen the Jag handbrake before the ride.
It is difficult to see when the handbrake is tighten or not, but this is what I need to get use to it.
Anyhow : How can I repair the handbrake ? Any suggestions ? I have been told to tighten the two bolts at the end of the handbrake. I tried a few times but did not succeed due to lack of space between chair and door.

2. I discovered some leakage/drips under my car after each ride, seems located just under the gearbox/tunnel. It is bit transparent yellowish fluid and no odor. After cleaning the floor it is gone so it is temporarily leaking. Any idea what this might be and how can I solve this ?

I am not so technical so I do hope to receive some aswers. Thanks in advance.

Ralph

[dinosoar]

Hi,

The Jag handbrake mechanism is designed to self adjust via a ratchet machanism in the calipers. Sometimes there is insufficient cable travel to allow the ratchet to operate. If this is the case then a simple cure is to unlink the cable at the calipers and ratchet the machanism up. Don't overdo it or you may find it tricky to get the cable back on.

HTH

Andy

[mr bidd]

Hello Ralph,

When I had this car I cut a service hatch out behind the seats to get to the handbrake calipers. To get to this hatch you need to unbolt both seats (4 nuts underneath) I welded stems to the runners so you only need to use a spanner from underneath. Lift the seats out the way, peel up the leather back panel about 8-10"s up - you will see a stainless steel plate at the end of the tunnel held in with, I think, 6 self tapping screws. Take this plate off which gives you access to your brake calipers. Once you've done this disconnect the handbrake cable from the lever end and slowly rachet up the slack on the handbrake pads. Do not over tighten them as the hand brake will be permanently binding. This will take you a couple of hours to sort out and put back together.

PS The chap you bought it off must have moved the handbrake lever from the right hand side of the car to the left, he may have put a new cable in which could have stretched and just needs adjusting at the lever end.

Hope this helps. Chris

[TINKA]

Originally Posted by dinosoar

Hi,

The Jag handbrake mechanism is designed to self adjust via a ratchet machanism in the calipers. Sometimes there is insufficient cable travel to allow the ratchet to operate. If this is the case then a simple cure is to unlink the cable at the calipers and ratchet the machanism up. Don't overdo it or you may find it tricky to get the cable back on.

HTH

Andy

I have been told by a mechanic that this is most certainly not the way to do the adjustment. Just done mine and it can be a bit of a pain the first time you do it but not really a problem once you are used to it.. On my AK I have to do one at a time first I remove the rear wheel so I can get to the handbrake calliper then as you look at the calliper you will see and the rear most part of the arm ( the other end from where the cable is attached ) you will see the head of the bolt which is in fact the self adjuster mechanism, you should see a pin going through this, you need to remove this ( which is the only tricky bit if it is tight ) and turn the screw until the brake starts to bind then back it off till you can get the pin back in. then repeat on the other side. HTH