Engine arrives in Two Weeks ish

[Nigel Foster]

As thread title states , My nice new seasoned Ford 351W arrives on my doorstep , hopefully near my garage , in two weeks and not having fitted one Before I wondered if I could enlist the Bottomless pit of Advice and Knowledge that walks these corridors. What are the Obvious pitfalls that I need to avoid . What engine hoist should I be hiring and how long should it take me . This and the electrics are completely new to me and any assistance you can offer will be grateful studied and received!!:thumb:

[mylesdw]

If you're dropping it on to a bare chassis and you have all the mounts and bolts actually fitting it should take half an hour or so.

I would hire a 1.5 or 2 ton hoist because then you get the option of using it at a longer reach if necessary. If the chassis is on stands make sure it will remain balanced when you add 'the heavy bit' and remember that there needs to be room for the hoist legs to roll under. Take some time to get the engine hanging from the hoist nicely: fairly level left and right and slightly tail down is good.

Fitting the engine with the body on is another matter but Dave who posts on here does it all the time and I'm sure can advise.

[JonnyT]

Hi Nigel,

From your comments in regard to the brake pipes and the clips, I assume that you have fitted the body already, in which case I can't be of that much use to you I'm afraid as we fitted the engine without the body.

I think the T600 is a lot more straightforward to fit than the T56 because it is a smaller casting, so from what I understand the gearbox will be ok and you won't have to cut lumps out of the chassis (see website!!!). We also went for a street twin clutch so I think the whole unit was a little bit longer as well when all mated together.

The only points I would however make are that you need to make sure that you have the right engine mounts for the 351W - if you get the ones we got third time around (Dax I think got them from Real Steel) then you will have the right ones. I think they are the short ones (I might have the dimensions at home - if I do I will email them later). You will however easily tell because any others don't fit.

The second thing is that there are clearancing issues with the bell housing around the starter motor area. You will need to carefully grind away some of the housing to deal with this but speak to your engine suppliers first to ensure that no weakening of the casting will occur. If you have an electronic speedo at the rear of the box, best to fit this afterwards as it is very tight and we also had problems with the reversing spring / indicator, but like I say this may all be a lot easier with the different box.

If you have a hydraulic clutch this will need to be fitted before the engine goes in - there really is very little space for this between the slave and the chassis rail in that area.

Be aware right from the start however, that you will likely have to alter the bonnet, depending on the air filter you have chosen and you may also have to move the alternator to prevent it fouling on the steering column.

You will also need a remote oil filter because the standard fitment fouls with the chassis - there simply isn't room.

However, on the bright side, I understand from Gary at Dax, that despite all the problems we had with original fitment, the engine came out and went back relatively easily when they took it out to make the exhausts.

If anything else comes to mind I will let you know.

Jon

PS there are some potentially useful pics on the website of the

[JonnyT]

I've just thought - having had a look at our website that you need to ensure that the cables, brake pipes and fuel lines are in before you put the engine in.

If you are having a remote solenoid (which we were recommended) that will need to be fitted before the engine goes in (or at least is much easier to fit before hand).

Finally, drill the hole in the plate that the fuel pipe and battery cable goes through, just forward of the diff, for the handbrake cable - I forget the exact details, but it is all set out in the manual, as this will be much easier to do before the gearbox goes in - and yes this does come from bitter experience of crawling around under the car the other day to drill it. I am sure that Dave will tell me if there is any reason why you shouldn't do this before the engine goes in but I could see none during the hour or so I was lying on my back swearing!!!

You may also want to fit the fuel pump before the gearbox goes in. We fitted it per the instructions but took the view that it was too low (about an inch below the chassis rail). I therefore amended the bracket to tilt the pump through about 10 degs so that it now fits above the chassis rail, albeit in the same position.

Jon

[Clive]

Originally Posted by Nigel Foster

As thread title states , My nice new seasoned Ford 351W arrives on my doorstep , hopefully near my garage , in two weeks :

I thought it was three weeks 'till Santa comes!

[runt]

Originally Posted by Clive

I thought it was three weeks 'till Santa comes!

Yes it is, but time 'bends' once December is here..Xmas madness I suppose, the whole of Essex making daily pilgrimages to Lakeside .
Anyway, a nice prezzie for Nigel!:thumb:

Paul/runt.

[Nigel Foster]

Gents , Thank you for all of your advice :thumb: , I will digest and follow. Jon I have seen the website and seen that bits had to be cut out and hope I dont have to do the same , fingers crossed .
Runt , as you know time flies in Essex especially queuing to get off the M-25 at the Lakeside turning- not !!.
I can't wait for my Xmas Present to arrive , nice shiney new (Seasoned Block of course) Ford Donk but somewhat daunted by what awaits me
Hell i'm sure it'll fit , but will it work !!

[bogster]

Nigel,

Not much to add to the chaps responses! I would say to make sure you trial fit the engine prior to installing the body. As someone has pointed out earlier, the hydraulic clutch is a real bugger to get in if you go down the scattershield route rather than bellhousing.

I used a 2ton crane to give me the extra reach (load capacity reduces as you extend the arm...moment arm thing). You'll need the arm full out to do the biz.

I wasn't too sure were to lift my engine as the carb was installed and I didn't want to take it off. Not sure what type of heads you have but there should be tapping points front and back that will allow you to bolt into and attach lifting slings/chains.

You'll need to dial in your bellhousing/scattershield prior to gearbox installation. And make sure you use a clutch alignement tool when installing the clutch, etc.

Can't think of anything else at present but will update if I do. :thumb:

[Nigel Foster]

Appreciate your input Bogster , I thought you had gone walk about . Dont stop posting , your experience mid build helps loads of us!!

[Nigel Foster]

Oh yeh , forgot a slight problem ...... Body already on !!