Oil Filter

[Martyn-ak427]

Guys,
Quick question; can anyone advise on a performance oil filter for my 84' 393ci stroked 351 Windsor pls?

Regards,
Martyn

[wilf]

Yes - Moroso racing filter. Real Steal have them.

Can't recall the number just now, will post it up tonight.

This filter is a race item - needs to be changed far more frequently than a "normal" one. However, it is far less restrictive than a std filter, and will up your oil pressure by around 5psi.
We tend to change oil and filter on our cars far more frequently then on a daily drive, so don't worry - this filter recommendation comes from George Anderson at Gessford Engineering, renowned Ford race engine builder.

[wilf]

Ok - the item to ask for is part number BY22470 - Moroso racing oil filter for Ford engine.

This item does not filter down to silly micron levels (that is bugger all use for an engine anyway) and that is why it gives better oil pressure - less pressure drop across the filter.

Change your oil and filter every 2000 miles or so - your engine will love you for it.

[Martyn-ak427]

Thanks Wilf; ordered the badboy you reccomended & its turned up today.

Regards
Martyn

[wilf]

Martyn - you are welcome.

I thought it might be an idea to expand on just why this particular filter is "better" in some way, for the benefit of others and maybe to stimulate some discussion.

Many filters boast of their ability to remove particles as small as 5 micron diameter from the oil. In fact this doesn't actually help us.

Particles of that size tend to pass right through an engine without causing any problems anyway. If you think about the thickness of the oil films around the engine (in the order of 5 thou or 0.2 of a millimeter) then something 5 microns wide is not touching the sides so to speak.

The real problem occurs in that in order to filter down to that level, the oil filter concerned builds up so much pressure drop across the filtering medium that the bypass valve opens, and totally unfiltered oil runs through the engine.

Most of you would be horrified to learn just how much of the time the bypass valve is open anyway - from a cold start, pretty much all of the time until the oil has warmed through and the viscosity has dropped.

Some "Racing" filters do not have a bypass valve at all, o ensure that the full oil flow is filtered all of the time.

The filter that I mentioned above does have a bypass valve, but it also reduces the pressure drop across the filter itself by not trying to filter down to silly micron levels - from memory it filters to around 15- 20microns or so. I (and others) have found that it usually gains around 5psi in the average engine. (at high rpms, when you need it).

Also, as I mentioned before, we do tend to change oil and filters far more regularly in our cosseted steeds than in the daily drives. Those daily drives need all the filtration they can get (but see the open bypass valve situation above - and the more blocked up a filter is through use, the more that valve opens).

In fact, if you want to keep your tintop for a long time - do it a favour, and change oil and oil filter every 5000 miles. The engine will outlast the rest of the car with ease if you do that.

Just some early morning thoughts.........(I couldn't print the ones I had even earlier, and anyway, Claudia would sue)

Oh - Martyn - last thought - don't waste an expensive filter like that on your initial start up and cam break in - use a std Motorcraft FL1A or similar, and only put the Moroso item on once you have done your initial oil change after cam break in or 100 miles.

[mylesdw]

Several books I have read recommend that you use a truck filter rather than bother with high performance and race filters. It's filter area that's needed and those big diesels flow a lot of oil under harsh conditions. I have the 'standard' remote filter head (Mocal I think) and the filter for a Perkins V8 diesel spins straight on but it is about twice as long as a car filter. Cheaper and easily available from any commercial vehicle parts supplier.