Fram oil filters

[Sidecarbod]

I've been using a fram filter on my RV8 (filter supplied by Real Steel)

Just found the below email posted on a web site..... I think I'll try another brand, anyone got any recommendations?


The email.....

Russell,
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.

I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.

I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.

I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bullshit.

If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.

Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.

[name omitted to protect submitter]

[craggle]

Interesting..

I am currently using a Fram PH13 filter on my chevy as it was supplied with engine but I was going to try something else next time.

I have heard good things from someone on here (Wilf?) about Moroso Racing filters. They are also available from Real Steel but I don't know if they do a Rover one.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=20002

Craig.

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by craggle

Interesting..

I am currently using a Fram PH13 filter on my chevy as it was supplied with engine but I was going to try something else next time.

I have heard good things from someone on here (Wilf?) about Moroso Racing filters. They are also available from Real Steel but I don't know if they do a Rover one.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=20002

Craig.

A book I've got rates Moroso (or could be mecca, I'll have to read it again!). Bit pi55ed off being flogged the fram then reading that email.

Pete

[Noel]

Pete,

I am just about to do my 500 mile oil change and was looking into filters. I originally had a FRAM on the Chevy but this was changed to a Coopers when I fitted the oil cooler (supplied with the cooler from Real Steel via BAE. I looked up Coopers website earlier in the week and noticed this

Coopers Filters is part of the SOGEFI group and along with High Street brands such as Fram, Fiaam, Crosland, Tecnocar and Purflux form one of Europe's largest filter groups. The company has undergone a number of significant changes which have served to strengthen its position as a major filter manufacturer and in particular, its position as the UK's leading manufacturer of Original Equipment Air Cleaners.

I would assume that these are all made under one roof and branded....I could be wrong.....and have been many times Also the quote that you post is from Canada....different factory and quality controls maybe

Anyway, I talked to my local motor factors who are very knowlegeable and call a spade a spade. They reckon that all commercially available filters are much the same The replacement I got for the Coopers is an Alcor one, it's not mentioned above so I am slightly happier about fitting it

[wilf]

Let me be clear about the Moroso racing filters - they are race items, they don't filter down to silly small micron levels like (marketeer - affected) normal filters. Unless you change your oil every 1500 miles or so, don't use them. If you do, they will give you an extra 5psi or so oil pressure.

[Sidecarbod]

I know this post might now be considered old but I've just cut up the filter that I've taken off my RV8 and put it this way...I ain't going anywhere in the cob until I fit something else.

Can someone confirm my calulations for the bypass PSI. (You'll just have to trust that I can use a ruler!)

The valve is 5/8" diameter, i.e 0.625 of an inch. (The radius is therefore 0.3125")

using Pi X R X R the area is of the valve is 0.3 of an inch square.

I rigged up some weights and found that 4lbs would just start to pull the valve of its seat.

So the PSI required to "blow the valve" is 1/0.3 X 4 which is just over 13 PSI .

If this is right that means my motor is running on unfiltered oil even at tickover. (35 PSI)

The measurements that I took were being generous, the blow off weight was infact slighty less!

Do you guys think this is right? it seems a bit "mental" to me!

Oh, the filter pleats are WAY too tight to flow oil at any point other than right at the base of each pleat, in the "valley" bit. (I'd upload a pic but my batteries are flat!)

The filter on my motor has PH43 written on the side.

Any Comments?

Regards,

Pete

[wilf]

Pete - without even commenting on your calcs, the issue that has bypassed you (!) is that it is differential pressure across the filter which operates the bypass valve.

So - not actual engine oil pressure, but the pressure needed to force the oil through the filter element itself.

As it happens, I tend to believe that these bypass valves are open much of the time (especially with cold oil), which is why I use the Moroso filters, which, because of the fact that they don't try to filter down to silly small particulate levels, have far lower differential pressures.

[JR]

my filter has PH5443 on it - and was the one recommended for use on the Rover.
I've got mine on a remote head for ease of removal because the original position is quite tight against the chassis on the SRV8.
Best to speak to Fram for best one for your particular engine?
JR

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by wilf

Pete - without even commenting on your calcs, the issue that has bypassed you (!) is that it is differential pressure across the filter which operates the bypass valve.

So - not actual engine oil pressure, but the pressure needed to force the oil through the filter element itself.

As it happens, I tend to believe that these bypass valves are open much of the time (especially with cold oil), which is why I use the Moroso filters, which, because of the fact that they don't try to filter down to silly small particulate levels, have far lower differential pressures.

Wilf,

Of course you're are right!

I guess the only way to know would be to have a pressure gauge either side of the filter....I'm not going to do that! The pleats are still terrible!

I think I'll get a Moroso and be happy with that.

Thanks for straighting things out.

Cheers,

Pete

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by JR

my filter has PH5443 on it - and was the one recommended for use on the Rover.
I've got mine on a remote head for ease of removal because the original position is quite tight against the chassis on the SRV8.
Best to speak to Fram for best one for your particular engine?
JR

Hi JR,

Thanks for the reply.

The Fram filter that I've got is the correct one for my Rover, the problem is that I've read some bad stuff about them. Cutting mine open proved that the pleats are way too tight to be any good. I did however make a wrong assumption regarding the bypass valve but wilf has sorted that out.

It would be good if other members would cut open any old filters that they've got and comment on what they find.

Regards,

Pete