ROVER OIL PRESSURE

[stevey]

Anybody got any thoughts on the following- when rebuilding my V8 I got a new crank,new cam, new pump gears, new cam and crank shells and lastly a remote filter kit, all from real steel now I know all about woeful oil pressure on rover V8's but I have a couple of twists on this old chestnut- when I installed the remote filet kit the unions leaked like pig! I spoke to real steel and was told these parts are manufactured to a price so some machining discrepency was to be expected and I should use PTFE to seal the unions! the other point is when I run my engine the oil pressure creeps up VERY slowly to the dizzy heights of 2.5 bar and I wondering if the extra oil lines an remote filter accounts for slow build up, when pressure does get up it stays just fine.

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by stevey

Anybody got any thoughts on the following- when rebuilding my V8 I got a new crank,new cam, new pump gears, new cam and crank shells and lastly a remote filter kit, all from real steel now I know all about woeful oil pressure on rover V8's but I have a couple of twists on this old chestnut- when I installed the remote filet kit the unions leaked like pig! I spoke to real steel and was told these parts are manufactured to a price so some machining discrepency was to be expected and I should use PTFE to seal the unions! the other point is when I run my engine the oil pressure creeps up VERY slowly to the dizzy heights of 2.5 bar and I wondering if the extra oil lines an remote filter accounts for slow build up, when pressure does get up it stays just fine.

Just what sort of price are Real Steel thinking off when they say "built to a price"...13 or 14p? If something is build to contain oil pressure then thats what it should do. An RV8 does not even run at very high pressure when compared to the yank v8 lumps. (Yes an RV8 is a sort of yank lump but you know what I mean!)

I guess that putting some PTFE tape round the threads of a union isn't too bad but if you are using banjo's and banjo bolts these should not leak providing that you use copper washers or the ones with a seal built onto the inner edge.

2.5 bar is actually 36.75 psi so thats quite healthy. IMHO I would use a gauge that gives PSI not bar!

My pressure sender is located on the pump but it still takes 5 seconds or more to reach full pressure from startup. As long as you've got 10 psi as soon as it fires you should be fine. (Don't thrash it until it has warmed up!).

The other thing is that the pressure figure can be misleading, I fitted a new filter and themostatic plate on my RV8 and now the pressure is about 5-10 psi higher. This seems great at first glance but what it is really saying is that the plate and filter are more restrictive than the stuff that came off and thats why the pressure at the pump is higher. It is not saying that the pressure at the bearings is higher!

Also if your sender is futher down stream it may take longer to read pressure.

I guess the remote filter will mean that it take longer before the oil gets to all the bearings if the pipes to the filter are very long. Is there any sort of valve to stop drain back and do you know the "dash" number of the pipes. (My cooler runs dash 8 which is 7/16 id but nominally classed as 1/2. i.e. 8/16). I would not want to run anything smaller than this.

Regards,

Pete

[stevey]

interesting thoughts Pete Real Steel have always had my vote I have used them for years but just strikes me as odd I did have another issue with the 390 carb in as much it failed the Co emissions miserably and I felt a branc new carb should be set up correctly. I have used many dellorto and weber products straight from the box and never had any problems when I spoke to Real Steel they said the carbs were not set up at all from Holley other than being enough to run! just strange. Going back to the oil pressure I feel much easier that I am not alone I do indeed let it warm up to get pressure up not really a hardship cos it sounds bloody marvellous in the workshop

[Sidecarbod]

Originally Posted by stevey

interesting thoughts Pete Real Steel have always had my vote I have used them for years but just strikes me as odd I did have another issue with the 390 carb in as much it failed the Co emissions miserably and I felt a branc new carb should be set up correctly. I have used many dellorto and weber products straight from the box and never had any problems when I spoke to Real Steel they said the carbs were not set up at all from Holley other than being enough to run! just strange. Going back to the oil pressure I feel much easier that I am not alone I do indeed let it warm up to get pressure up not really a hardship cos it sounds bloody marvellous in the workshop

Hi Steve,

I've not got anything against Real Steel, I do buy stuff from them (not Fram oil filters though!)

I don't think that any "after market carb" is setup for any engine in particular, like you say, they just bung in jets that will get most engines running. (The weber 500 is just as bad).

Solving these problems is all part of the "fun"

Regards,

Pete

[steamyrotter]

Originally Posted by Sidecarbod

I guess the remote filter will mean that it take longer before the oil gets to all the bearings if the pipes to the filter are very long. Is there any sort of valve to stop drain back and do you know the "dash" number of the pipes. (My cooler runs dash 8 which is 7/16 id but nominally classed as 1/2. i.e. 8/16). I would not want to run anything smaller than this.

Regards,

Pete

But if the lines are primed and the pump does not allow (too much) reverse flow then it shouldn't take any longer than standard.

(Big IF)

(However I could be (and usually am) talking rollocks!)

[robinj66]

Is your oil pressure gauge a capillary action or electronic? Where is the sender situated?

I have a remote filter and cooler (with no thermostat [Yes, I know ]) and the electronic sender is in the standard place in the pump housing. I have no real delay in the reading on the gauge (ETB)

The other thing to remember is that RV8's survive with large oil volume , not necessarily high pressures.

[steamyrotter]

Wouldn't it be better then to go for some sort of mass flow sender / gauge then.

Just a thought?

[chesterak]

On the original post, this attitude of RS once again shows they employ some right prats. No respectable dealer would supply fittings made to a price that would leak. I would check you have the correct fittings.
Regarding oil pressure, its my limited experience that with the distributor driven pump, you may get a slower build up of pressure with a remote filter due to the increased volume. With the serpentine front end this is minimised. Without rechecking the posts, you should also use a good quality mineral oil - Valvoline Racing, for instance. You will get a lower pressure with the thinner synthetic oils.

[wilf]

Before we go too far down the line of calling out Real Steel, some threads (parallel type) are designed to use a sealing tape like PTFE tape, and some (taper thread) are not. Their comment may not have been too off the wall.

Just have a think about many domestic water pipe fittings - they are for a liquid under pressure, and are designed to use a sealing tape. No-one complains to the suppliers about the need to do that, do they?

[stevey]

Wilf these are taper threads so should not need PTFE tape so too large a tolerance in machining is probably the cause but hey a little tape and no leaks! good thought on upgrading my choice of oil though may make a small difference (I guess Mazola should not be my first choice ) I have castrol GTX in it at the moment and to answer a few posts back the gauge is electric with the sender in the standard place although thinking about it I did need a couple of adapters from Europa to match to the gauge anyhow I still think Real Steel are the canines sphericals