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| RTV Silicone - throw away the rubber seals, lay down a good thick bead of RTV, drop the manifold on in one go (i.e. don't expect to move it around to align - sometimes a couple of temporary studs in the bolt holes will help) and leave for 24 hours minimum. Ensure all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and degreased first. Then Robert will be the sibling of one of your parents.
__________________ My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it. CRENDON - go on, you know you want to! Last edited by wilf; 03-10-07 at 11:35 AM. |
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| Ive never had a problem with the rubber end gaskets, but as wilf says the trick is to get everything scrupulously clean first. I leave the rubbers/adhesive to set properly 1st before trying to put on the manifold. The silicone bead method is very popular and effective, especiially where blocks and heads have been decked. Cleanliness is your friend here, and dont be so liberal with it that you end up with surplus silicone where it can be washed into the oil system-expensive! If you have had your block decked or your heads faced and you have not machined the manifold to suit, that could be why your pushing the gaskets off? There is a chart somewhere on the Edelbrock inlet manifold site that tells you how much to take off the inlet manifold.
__________________ Regards Steve We're not here for a long time, We're here for a good time... |
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| Oh come on, keep up at the back - you just know what he is going to say, and it would be a firm recommendation to swap to a GM product.............not that they never leak oil of course.
__________________ My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it. CRENDON - go on, you know you want to! |
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__________________ There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." You don`t have to be mental to build a kitcar - but it definitely helps. GD JAG mk4 progressing slowly. |
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