Chevy Sump gasket

[craggle]

Hello all

Has anyone any experience of changing sump gaskets on the small block Chevy?

I have a 350 that was supplied by Re-power and it has always leaked oil at the back of the engine. It runs down the back of the sump and drips off the drain plug. The back of the flywheel is dry so I'm fairly confident it's not the rear crank seal.

I have the Felpro gasket set which consists of two rubber seals and two cork gaskets. Should I be using silicone on these or just at the joints between the cork and the rubber bits?

Do you need to remove the timing chain cover as well?

I have just been living with it up to now and as I drive Range Rovers anyway it is common place for vehicles to mark their territory. This is turning into a bit more than just the occasional drip now though.

Cheers

Craig.

[john cohen]

Hi I used jointing compound that i got from Real Steal I think it was called BLACK STUFF It works a treat but put plenty on the cork rubber joint Good luck with it m8




John

[Noel]

Christ....you should know by now that the reason LandRovers last forever is that they are permanently coated in oil from all the oil leaks and never rust. This is not normal for ordinary cars. Felpro are supposed to be the best gaskets (probably why you bought them ) Supplement the gasket with some anaerobic jointing compound......hallelulah.....praise the Lord...I'm a convert

[craggle]

Just been browsing and noticed that you can get one piece rubber seals from the states.

Real steel sells this one for £25 each. Mr. Gasket 6560 - Mr. Gasket Ultra-Seal Oil Pan Gaskets - summitracing.com

Looks like it stands a better chance of sealing than 4 separate gaskets. Anyone used one?

Craig.

[v8steve007]

you have a pm

[craggle]

Well I took the plunge today and ordered the one piece rubber sump gasket, hopefully supplied with longer bolts and a couple of Moroso racing oil filters.

Tonight I thought it would be an easy task to remove the sump so I start undoing bolts, then discover I need to remove the oil cooler take off plate from the side of the engine. Get that off with loads of oil running down my arm,
Undo more bolts to discover you can't get to the bolts above the starter, So that comes off as well.

Get the rest of the bolts out and the sump won't come past the oil pickup on the bottom of the filter. Luckily the Miloden sump has a removable baffle plate held in by 4 flat blade screws. Manage to reach inside sump to remove screws.

Needless to say the cutout in the baffle plate will be slightly bigger when it goes back in.

Craig.

[Purple AK]

Originally Posted by craggle

Well I took the plunge today and ordered the one piece rubber sump gasket, hopefully supplied with longer bolts and a couple of Moroso racing oil filters.

Tonight I thought it would be an easy task to remove the sump so I start undoing bolts, then discover I need to remove the oil cooler take off plate from the side of the engine. Get that off with loads of oil running down my arm,
Undo more bolts to discover you can't get to the bolts above the starter, So that comes off as well.

Get the rest of the bolts out and the sump won't come past the oil pickup on the bottom of the filter. Luckily the Miloden sump has a removable baffle plate held in by 4 flat blade screws. Manage to reach inside sump to remove screws.

Needless to say the cutout in the baffle plate will be slightly bigger when it goes back in.

Craig.

Should have bought a F... No we won't go there

[craggle]

Guess Fords don't leak then..... Or don't they run long enough to leak

You might be able to help me out Chris. A friend of mine has a 351 Cleveland in his 1932 Ford hotrod and is replacing the radiator because it occasionally gets warm. I have mentioned to him that Clevelands have unique Thermostats and I'm not sure he has the right one in there although he said he got it from real steel.

When he has it in bits I will try to get a look at it to see if it's right. Any idea what I'm looking for?

Craig.

[Purple AK]

Hi Graig. Real Steel only do one thermostat for Fords! And it isn't the correct one for a Cleveland! This is Robertshaw Thermostat number 333 It has the shut off on the bottom, And it also requires the restrictor plate Ford part No DOAZ-8K517-A I think Summit do both

[craggle]

Cheers Chris.

That's what I feared. I will try to convince him to take the thermostat housing off and take a look.

Craig.