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| Maybe the drag of the points was restricting the amount of vac advance. Try checking with your strobe to see what is happening. You don't need it anyway, so to make the car driveable again, disconnect it.
__________________ My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it. CRENDON - go on, you know you want to! |
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| Howdy I have changed to Pertronix on my 351.Although I have mechanical advance I had a similar issue and after checking found that I had connected the Petronix electrical positive behind my ballast resistor so it was only getting around 9 volts where as it should have been getting 12 volts. Works fine now, doh. "Q. How to correct a low voltage problem? A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to." Regards Frank
__________________ Anti Radar Paint,SBF 393,TKO600, Nobody can stop us now , nobody!! |
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| All, Thanks for the replies. You've given me a few things to check. I'll certainly go back and confirm the carb vacuum on idle. It does seem high and maybe the throttle butterflies are not closing correctly? As Wilf has suggested, the vac advance may have never been able to advance the points and hence now moving freely the setup is giving too much advance. I believe the Mallory vacuum can is adjustable by rotating it? I did change the rotor arm for the one supplied with my Pertronix kit. It looked like the same Mallory rotor that was fitted with my original points setup. (I have the old one, I'll confirm they are the same size.) The dissy cap is the original. When I fitted the Ignitor I couldn't find a ballast resistor and the voltage at the coil was around 12v. (I can make a quick check on this). Cheers, Russ.
__________________ 1984 Dax Tojeiro. Rover 3.5 with Holley Jaguar 3.54 PL differential Pat Hanson chassis |
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