Help removing intake manifold

[ian_uk1975]

Originally Posted by keane

Ian, just picked up on this thread, I know its a pain but be very careful resorting to too much force(dont ask how I know!!) if you have managed to cut or whatever the majority of sealing rtv etc it shouldn't need as much force as you are considering, just dont want to read in a few posts how the bolt holes cracked, have you any movement at all? if there is just rtv holding it then you should have some give albeit small if it is solid there may be something else, is there anyone close to you that can also take a look? just dont lose your rag or it will cost you. Dave

Hi Dave,

Definitely just RTV holding it down... all 12 bolts out, dizzy, coil, carb and thermostat housing off. The one slight glimmer of hope is that I do actually have a TINY bit of 'give' visible when levering on the front passenger-side... probably no more than 0.5-1mm. I'll be conscious of keeping my cool with it... I think maybe it's a good idea to hang a punch bag from the garage ceiling, in case you need an 'outlet', haha.

Cheers,
Ian.

[JonnyT]

It might still be new by the time ur finished but it aint going to be sharp so I'd blunt it a bit before hand.

[conrod]

Ian,

I said I'd be right behind you! I managed to remove my inlet manifold OK today - see my "this does not sound good" thread.

Normally, silicone sealant is used just at the front and the rear - so if you cut through this you should be OK. The front and rear seals can be either cork or neoprene - but in my case just silicone sealant was used, without a seal. Mike Huddart has advised me to do the same on reassembly.

A modelling knife worked for me - and this should also cut through a cork or neoprene seal OK. If you've already done this, then it sounds as though silicone sealant may possibly also have been used on two sides - and as the gaskets are quite thin, it is difficult to get even a knife blade in there.

Had I been in the same situation, my next step was going to be to drill a couple of holes in a long metal bar and to place bolts through to the carb stud holes - then to "wobble" the manifold from side to side using the leverage from the metal bar. But I was pleasantly surprised (and relieved!) when it came off just by a small prise with a blunt chisel.

Good luck - I hope you get it off OK, and apologies for my previous duff advice re levering on the thermostat housing

[ian_uk1975]

Originally Posted by conrod

Ian,

I said I'd be right behind you! I managed to remove my inlet manifold OK today - see my "this does not sound good" thread.

Normally, silicone sealant is used just at the front and the rear - so if you cut through this you should be OK. The front and rear seals can be either cork or neoprene - but in my case just silicone sealant was used, without a seal. Mike Huddart has advised me to do the same on reassembly.

A modelling knife worked for me - and this should also cut through a cork or neoprene seal OK. If you've already done this, then it sounds as though silicone sealant may possibly also have been used on two sides - and as the gaskets are quite thin, it is difficult to get even a knife blade in there.

Had I been in the same situation, my next step was going to be to drill a couple of holes in a long metal bar and to place bolts through to the carb stud holes - then to "wobble" the manifold from side to side using the leverage from the metal bar. But I was pleasantly surprised (and relieved!) when it came off just by a small prise with a blunt chisel.

Good luck - I hope you get it off OK, and apologies for my previous duff advice re levering on the thermostat housing

Congrats on finding the source of your problems Alan... just been reading-up on your other thread

Did you remove the water pump to gain better access to the front of the intake? That was going to be my next step and see if I can wedge an old screwdriver in from the front (between block and intake).

No need to apologise... all advice is welcome and I thought it was a good idea. Not the end of the world as my, now cracked, thermostat housing is salvagable... the crack is just a small split in the outlet that will be covered by the silicone hose that slips over it anyway.

Cheers,
Ian.

[conrod]

Originally Posted by ian_uk1975

Congrats on finding the source of your problems Alan... just been reading-up on your other thread

Did you remove the water pump to gain better access to the front of the intake? That was going to be my next step and see if I can wedge an old screwdriver in from the front (between block and intake).

No need to apologise... all advice is welcome and I thought it was a good idea. Not the end of the world as my, now cracked, thermostat housing is salvagable... the crack is just a small split in the outlet that will be covered by the silicone hose that slips over it anyway.

Cheers,
Ian.

Ian,

I didn't have to remove the water pump. Once I'd cut through the silicone sealant front and rear, all it took was a gentle prise with a blunt chisel at the site of the leak. Have you been able to get a knife blade all the way through front and rear? If you have, even if there is silicone at the sides too, I would have expected it to be too thin to hold the manifold that firmly. Very odd.

Maybe you need to do what I did - take a day off, then go back to it. Worked for me!

Alan

[ian_uk1975]

Finally got the intake off tonight. Amazing what difference taking a break from things can make. The problem? Embarrassingly, one of the valve covers (which were both still in-situ) was butting-up against the intake and preventing removal! As soon as I took the valve covers off (which I'd left on to prevent any chance of damaging the valvetrain whilst trying to remove the intake), the intake came off pretty easily. You live and learn.

Thanks for all your help chaps.

Cheers,
Ian.