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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-09, 05:36 PM
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could you post some pics of your engine bay , this subject has still got me wondering which would be the best way to run my pipework when i get the body on . The more i see the better descion i can make
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-09, 10:44 PM
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Location: kellys cottage, debden, essex
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photos

I will try to get some at the weekend. I also have a reliant scimitar with a remote header tank and I will compare the piping to see how different the layout is.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-09, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhennings View Post
I will try to get some at the weekend. I also have a reliant scimitar with a remote header tank and I will compare the piping to see how different the layout is.
great look forward to it
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L&R Ram 3.9 RV8 - now back together , the fine tuning begins....

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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-09, 11:27 PM
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Location: kellys cottage, debden, essex
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tank type

the radiator has two small pipes in one top corner as well as the main two going to the engine. One pipe goes to the pressurised header tank and the other goes to the manifold between the two carbs.

It does occur to me that it might be better if it only had one pipe connected to both as at the moment their is no flow between them and so air in the head has to go down to the radiator and then up to the exsnasion tank (not something air bubbles like doing. Air in the radiator could go up either pipe and if it goes to the head there is no way out.

I am wondering if i had one pipe and at junction so it connects to the head and the tank would better allow any air build up to escape. If this si the case then it has never been routed right since being built

I did get the impression it had happenend to the last owner as well and i have found a couple of other things where his engineeering skills went a bit wrong (took me a day and half to find a way of making the indicator flashing light on the dash work). It also was only running on 4 pots and I worked out this was becuase the mixture screw on one carb was at least twice the number of turns out on one side!!!
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-09, 09:11 AM
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Location: Ballymena Northern Ireland
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Hi ,
The system that you have is the standard Rover SD1 layout.

The pipe between the carbs is used as an air bleed , as it is the highest point in the cooling system. This should be checked to make sure that it is clear as they sometimes block up, and so will not allow trapped air to bleed back to the rad.

This system normally works well , but it must have the water level mark on the expansion bottle slightly higer than the level of the bleed pipe.
If your bottle is too low, when the engine is running the water level will rise to to top of the bottle (and beyond) in an attempt to equalise the levels.

Having said all that, if the engine has been allowed to overheat (either by water loss or by running a super lean mixture) then you may have a gasket problem, but check out your plumbing system first.

Regards
Jim
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-09, 03:32 PM
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Rover v8 dumping coolant

if all the above fails contact me as my uncle had the similar problem with his Rover V8 and it was a bit more sinister! Aluminium block?? possibly the ali was breaking down and the air was being created by the pistons going up and down, very rare but you can get cross bore leaking. I'll mail hime for more info if you need it - but not wanting to panick you , like I said contact me if all the above fails. for the record his V8 was in his range rover. Took him 3 months to sort in the end under warranty the garage replaced his block.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-09, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 427jlc View Post
if all the above fails contact me as my uncle had the similar problem with his Rover V8 and it was a bit more sinister! Aluminium block?? possibly the ali was breaking down and the air was being created by the pistons going up and down, very rare but you can get cross bore leaking. I'll mail hime for more info if you need it - but not wanting to panick you , like I said contact me if all the above fails. for the record his V8 was in his range rover. Took him 3 months to sort in the end under warranty the garage replaced his block.

That's not that uncommon but it tends to be the larger RV8 lumps that suffered from the problem. Basically the ali between the liners crack and the result is that the liner drops down the block a few thou. The coolant can then leak into the cylinder and can lock the engine solid. When that engine is running the cylinder pressure can also pressurize the coolant system and cause a load of issues. The normal cure a hot hat liners. (or another block!)

Pete
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