rv8 oil pressure to high

[big red cob]

hi

anyone suffered from oil pressure being to high to 3.5 rv8 using real steal high pressure/vol pump and standard pressure bypass spring also surplied by real steal i,m running a remote filter, i,ve check the bypass piston is free and spring length is 3 1/8" long but i,m still getting 100psi [manual smiths oil gauge] at around 4000 rpm when oil is hot

any idears steve

[alfiebeard]

Originally Posted by big red cob

hi

anyone suffered from oil pressure being to high to 3.5 rv8 using real steal high pressure/vol pump and standard pressure bypass spring also surplied by real steal i,m running a remote filter, i,ve check the bypass piston is free and spring length is 3 1/8" long but i,m still getting 100psi [manual smiths oil gauge] at around 4000 rpm when oil is hot

any idears steve

I RECKON ITS GOT TO BE THE PRESSURE RELEASE STICKING, AND IF YOU CONTINUE TO RUN IT YOU WILL STRIP THE GEAR ON THE END OF THE CAMSHAFT, AS IT CAN STRIP EASILY WITH OVER 50PSI ON IT, THE PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE SHOULD OPEN AT AROUND 55PSI MAX I WOULD SAY.

Alfie B

[neil50]

Originally Posted by alfiebeard

I RECKON ITS GOT TO BE THE PRESSURE RELEASE STICKING, AND IF YOU CONTINUE TO RUN IT YOU WILL STRIP THE GEAR ON THE END OF THE CAMSHAFT, AS IT CAN STRIP EASILY WITH OVER PSI ON IT, THE PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE SHOULD OPEN AT AROUND PSI MAX I WOULD SAY.

Alfie B

that's now got me worried as i have a high pressure pump fitted as it was built for racing and that works at 70 - 80 psi

[Purple AK]

Originally Posted by neil50

that's now got me worried as i have a high pressure pump fitted as it was built for racing and that works at 70 - 80 psi

Worry Not Neil Chevys and Fords are designed to work at 70-80psi. Whereas the Rover/Buick is a High Volume/Low Pressure setup

[neil50]

Originally Posted by Purple AK

Worry Not Neil Chevys and Fords are designed to work at 70-80psi. Whereas the Rover/Buick is a High Volume/Low Pressure setup

thank f*** for that. going ok, just got to sort out fuel mixture as i think half of it is going down the pipes (so say whoever is driving behind me ) plus sort out the speedo as i have to get a correction gear for the gearbox end as it is reeding nearly KPh equivilants insteat of MPH.

[Purple AK]

What carb have you got Neil? If Alan built it for racing he may well have put a Double Pumper on, which isn't good for a road car

[neil50]

Originally Posted by Purple AK

What carb have you got Neil? If Alan built it for racing he may well have put a Double Pumper on, which isn't good for a road car

It has a Holley 3310- 750 cfm with vacuum secondaries.

just noticed another couple of other things though....

the fuel feed goes from the regulator acoss the left bank, under thermostat housing then down side of carb, is this the normal route?

two plug leads seem to go out of sink n the distributor i.e. they go to he opposite side of the distributer to the bank they are on and are different to the other leads on their side.

i'll try to attach a photo to explain better

[Purple AK]

Originally Posted by neil50

It has a Holley 3310- 750 cfm with vacuum secondaries.

just noticed another couple of other things though....

the fuel feed goes from the regulator acoss the left bank, under thermostat housing then down side of carb, is this the normal route?

two plug leads seem to go out of sink n the distributor i.e. they go to he opposite side of the distributer to the bank they are on and are different to the other leads on their side.

i'll try to attach a photo to explain better

Not the easiest route for the fuel feed, But it isn't going to make any real difference. In any V8 setup you are always going to get at least two plug leads that come out of the wrong side of the dizzy i'm afraid.

[neil50]

Originally Posted by Purple AK

Not the easiest route for the fuel feed, But it isn't going to make any real difference. In any V8 setup you are always going to get at least two plug leads that come out of the wrong side of the dizzy I'm afraid.

thats a relief, just trying to tidy up the engine bay. went for a ride out yesterday with some of the midlands guys and Tony D had to cut one of my oil breather pipes down as it had been routed down the side of the block against they manifold, needless to say it had melted but luckily no oil to burn on the pipes. Trying to keep hose length to a minimum, even though it is just a breather does oil ever make it through the pipes?

does it matter if the fuel line comes in from the rear of the engine feeding the Carb from the secondaries end? I just like to keep fuel pipes to the shortest route possible so there is less pipe to have problems.

thinking of also moving the expansion tank if i can as i have a hose coming straight over the engine from one corner of the bay to the opposite corner at the rear.

love the car and learning loads just tinkering with it. Checked the suspension yesterday and every corner was on a different setting, not just 1 or 2 clicks difference either!! set them all at 10 clicks and see how that goes. just deciding whether to spray the wheels silver or leave them black. don't want to spend a fortune on new wheels unless it would significantly raise the re-sale value for when want to sell it.

[robinj66]

I think I would be concerned if my RV8 had oil pressure of 100 psi when hot. As Alfiebeard has already said, you are likely to cause swift damage to your distributor drive unless you have already fitted a secondary oil feed.

The pre-1994 engines with distributor driven oil pump (as opposed to crank driven on the later engines) should have a pressure of 35 psi at 2400 revs (I think the crank driven ones are slightly higher but use "thinner" oil).

Looking at your previous thread, you already appear to have suffered with a worn dizzy drive (Rv8 Died On Rolling Road Today ). You might also want to have a look here (www.v8forum.co.uk :: View topic - Rover V8 cam gear wear ). A worn distributor drive might also explain why your dizzy was misbehaving on the Rolling Road - see the second page of the secong link.