gearbox

[Bernie]

Having got the engine going well, we've moved on to sorting out the gearbox and clutch.

Without the engine running, I can put the Vitesse gearbox into any of the gears without problem, but when the engine is going, I can't push it into first or second, the lever just won't move. It went into third with no problem, and the clutch bites around half travel on the pedal.

My son suggests that we need to fiddle with the remote mechanism adjsutment, and there certainly is an obscurely complicated setup procedure in the Haynes manual. Has anyone had this problem and sorted it?

[russell_ram]

Bernie,

The remote mechanism adjustment on LT77 (and R380) boxes only sets the 'cross gate' bias. Normally you set this so that the gear lever sits exactly in the 3rd/4th gear plane in it's free position, so that pushing/pulling it takes you directly into 3rd/4th without having to move the gear lever sideways at all.

Adjusting the bias springs also adjusts the cross gate loads, which you can set from none at all (although the lever might rattle) to heavy sprung bias , all acording to your own taste.

I guess that 'over adjusting' the 1st/2nd side spring could give you the problem you describe but it should feel exactly the same with the engine not running.

Alternate possibilties are knackered 1st/2nd synchro hubs, worn 1st/2nd selector forks, too thick oil etc. Worn remote mech mounting rubbers can also give some 'strange' gear engagement proerties.

Russ

[Bernie]

Thanks Russ

I guess it could be any of those things. I didn't get to see it driven, as it came from a scrapyard. Externally it looked good, and feels suitably solid going through the gears when stopped.

Hmmm....

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Bernie seems like you have learned number one lesson, don't buy sh#t from scrap yards, never worth it mate! Eric

[Bernie]

...as it turned out, there was nothing at all wrong with the scrapyard gearbox, but a bit of a problem with the way we'd failed to correctly adjust the excellent clutch conversion from v8tuner (Abbey Sports Cars). There are three bits to get right, and we hadn't - so at long last we've been zooming up and down the drive making a seriously good sound with no silencers on. Hooray - finally!!

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Well good for you Bernie!! Just one tip don't run it on Auto Fluid, I have destroyed three LT77's; just a thought Eric.

[Bernie]

...but everyone else says you should, and that's what it currently has. Should I change?

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Not every one Bernie, ask Russell Ram. The only reason they changed to auto type fluid was because some old tarts could not get the car into gear whatever the application on a cold day; so Leyland in there wisdom move from a Hypoid 80 gear oil I think.#

Having had three perfectly good LT77 pack up on me as a direct result of using the recomended stuff (TQF) I decided to go for the R380 replacement which runs on fully synthetic (No more problems!)

Probably perfectly okay for normal road work, but if your asking the car to do track days or more than the normal run of the mill, then possible move to a semi synthetic or above. I can only give you my experiences on the subject Eric.

[Bernie]

Well, so far its only track outing is 30 yards or so down the drive, so I'll leave it as it is for now. Thanks anyway, and I'll remember to change it before i try anything exotic.

PS - you do get up early for a Sunday morning!

[kirklillis]

Bernie,

"Look up Redline Racing on the web. I have purchased some of their MTL gearbox fluid. Its a 70W90 gear oil and is recommended by them for LT77 boxes (you'll need 2 bottles). I have it in my box and it is as quiet as it has ever been and has lovely, firm, smooth changes."

The above was posted in response to the someone else asking the same question some months ago. My engine is a 300BHP 5.0L TVR Griffith RV8, so the 'box has its work cut-out. I have travelled in excess of 10,000 miles since filling with the above oil. Still wonderful with no problems. DO NOT USE Auto oil.

Kirk