http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/ Technical stuff on engines, gearboxes etc. en Fri, 24 May 2013 23:54:28 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/images/styles/vb3/misc/rss.png http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/ http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49019-grill-bars.html Fri, 24 May 2013 19:55:47 GMT Hi all, is there a maximum allowable distance between front grill bars for SVA. Also, can you still use mesh or has this been banned for sva. thanks... Hi all, is there a maximum allowable distance between front grill bars for SVA. Also, can you still use mesh or has this been banned for sva. thanks al ]]> alunwill http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49019-grill-bars.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49009-servo-assisted-clutch.html Thu, 23 May 2013 11:22:09 GMT Afternoon all,

a bit of a strange question.

A friend of my was t boned whilst driving his old Mini Cooper, needless to say he's lucky to be alive let alone walking. He's a bit of a car nut but is misdirected and owns a tvr Chim which has a pretty heavy clutch and bearing in mind his knee and hip are knackered he was thinking of a servo assisted clutch.

Any ideas on whether its possible and how he could get it done? ]]> Lotus11 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49009-servo-assisted-clutch.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49007-happy-birthday.html Wed, 22 May 2013 21:09:14 GMT Happy 63rd birthday lester[bloke from stoke]you old pisspot treat yourself to a new earing and some dungarees;).

Rob ]]> robcob http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49007-happy-birthday.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49006-new-dizzy-vaccuum-outlets.html Wed, 22 May 2013 20:05:46 GMT Hi to all. can anyone tell me, my new RV8 electronic dizzy vaccuum has two ports, one on the front and one on the back. do i block one off :confused: Hi to all. can anyone tell me, my new RV8 electronic dizzy vaccuum has two ports, one on the front and one on the back. do i block one off :confused: ]]> RED1001 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/49006-new-dizzy-vaccuum-outlets.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48997-oil-pump-modification.html Tue, 21 May 2013 23:55:52 GMT One of the common modifications for a performance FE engine has always been to modify the lubrication system. Even the oil pump gets modified for... One of the common modifications for a performance FE engine has always been to modify the lubrication system. Even the oil pump gets modified for higher oil pressure. Generally a High Volume pump is used to help keep pressure up at lower rpms, and the oil pump relief valve spring is shimmed, or a stiffer spring is used to achieve a higher pressure limit.

In the graph below, you can see where the relief valve opens and the pressure stabilizes. A HV pump will make the ramp of the graph steeper and the max pressure will be achieved sooner.



Based on research, the “good ole boys” liked 80 psi for performance use, but how does one know what the pump will do without installing it and trying it? Removal of the pump for adjustment is time consuming as the car must be jacked up, the oil pan must come off along with a windage tray (if used), the pump adjusted by using a shim or different spring, and then everything re-installed.

I’m sorry I didn’t take pics of my modifications before I installed the pump, but I think I can post enough info here on how it’s done. Besides, as many of you don’t run a FE in your Cobra’s, the info only needs to be generically accurate.

Here is a pic of an old oil pump with the press-in plug removed and the pressure spring sticking out.



Basically I stripped the pump down and threaded the hole where the spring goes with a 5/8”-27 tap. I then made a threaded plug out of brass and drilled two small blind holes in the top so I could turn it with snap-ring pliers. A slot for a screwdriver would have been as good. Or a store bought Allen plug, but it can’t be a tapered pipe tap plus it ought to be fine thread.

Here’s a representation of what I made:



Next was the test set-up. I made a couple of fittings for the inlet and outlet of the pump connected a pressure gauge to the outlet fitting. I also fitted a 1/4-turn valve to the outlet fitting so I could simulate the oil flow resistance past the engine bearings. This is shown below.



Putting both the intake and outlet hose in the same container of oil, I used a ½ Hp portable drill and an old oil pump hex shaft to spin the pump. I played around with the valve to build resistance and checked the max pressure. I seem to remember that I could even close the valve all the way and get the same pressure as with it partly closed, which is good.

I tired a couple different springs to get close, and then fine tuned the pressure by screwing the plug in and out.

Nothing was terribly exact as the gauge fluctuated quite a bit. I finally went for approximately 83 psi as the gauge was jumping between 80 and 85 psi.

The final operation was to use a center-punch to make a few dimples in the pump internal threads at the top of the screw-in plug. This would keep it from unscrewing.

Finally the day-of-test came and it worked. Got good strong pressure around 85 psi. I was quite pleased. With a little bit of effort up front, I saved myself numerous repetitions of oil pump removal and installation not to mention going through a plethora of oil pan gaskets.

Of course all this may be of little interest as I think many of you may be running external oil pumps… Rover V8’s???

But what might be of interest is that during the course of the testing I had a helper. Yes, the Missus held the oil lines in the pan while I held the pump and operated the drill. And of course it happened…. the outlet tube popped off the fitting and she got sprayed with dirty engine oil all over her shirt, face and arms. I very lucky with this one. Despite the oil incident, we’re still happily together while my first two wives are long gone….. ]]> Eggbert http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48997-oil-pump-modification.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48996-501-bulb-holder.html Tue, 21 May 2013 21:48:59 GMT Does anybody know what the terminals are in the 501 bulb holders that are used in the smiths instrument lights? They seem to have a slot in them to... Does anybody know what the terminals are in the 501 bulb holders that are used in the smiths instrument lights? They seem to have a slot in them to accept the bulbs.:confused: Cheers ]]> seph http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48996-501-bulb-holder.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48983-where-can-i-get-sump-guard-other-parts-my-new-ak.html Tue, 21 May 2013 11:34:29 GMT Hi again, I just had a fantastic weekend giving all my mates and wife a drive round in my newly acquired AK monster, but I have had it for less than... Hi again, I just had a fantastic weekend giving all my mates and wife a drive round in my newly acquired AK monster, but I have had it for less than a week, and have already nearly ground it driving on to my drive. My neighbour looked underneath while I drove over what I thought was a slight rise from road to drive and said I only had about 15 mm ground clearance. So I want to get myself a sump/bell housing guard fitted, so that if I do hit something, it will hopefully ride up over obstacles. Does anyone know where I can get a readymade sump/bell housing guard from? If not, i will have to fabricate one .
While looking underneath I also noticed that there is no cover on the bottom edge of the flywheel cover, and can see the exposed outer edge and teeth of the flywheel,which must be allowing road dirt to gather on flywheel. I don’t know whether this is due to the fact that it is a chevvy engine bolted to an XJS Getrag box,and they don’t do covers for this setup, hopefully you guys can put me straight please .
Can you guys also tell me the best place for me to get the following items in the Midlands area from please.
1. Grill or gauze for the main radiator aperture, bonnet scoop, and brake duct holes.
2. Screen mounted review mirror and wing mirrors.
3. Exhaust heat shields
4. Rubber floor mats
5. Adjustable seat runners and head restraints
6. Steering wheels
7. Locking wheel nuts
8. Wind jammers, the sort that fit in-between the roll bars, to stop the back rush of wind from buggering up the Wife’s hair do J
9. Sump/bell housing guards/skid pan.
10. Flywheel cover
Thanks
Paul ]]> psh http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48983-where-can-i-get-sump-guard-other-parts-my-new-ak.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48981-brake-line-schematics-dual-master-cylinder-operation.html Tue, 21 May 2013 09:12:42 GMT So as I'm sitting here at work planning things in my head to try and make a start on the chassis, Kevin suggested I get the brake lines run since I can do that while waiting for other things to arrive.. anyway; I figure as this isn't a Dax specific question I'll stick it here.

I was planning on going for a floor mounted pedal box (e.g. Wilwood et al) with dual master cylinders rather than the Dax pedal box (so a setup more like the XCS car or, indeed, a Crendon - ssh Kev!) and I've had a sudden crisis of confidence..

Am I right in thinking that a dual master cylinder system would have a layout as follows:



Please excuse the awful, awful diagram knocked up in Photoshop :lol: Obviously the larger box is the front master cyl and the smaller is the rear master cyl..


Of course I'm sure Kevin would tell me that I should just build the damn thing how the manual says and get to the 'modifications' later ;) but this one would be a hard retro fit, I think..

Now off I go to find battery cable. ]]> aaronjb http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48981-brake-line-schematics-dual-master-cylinder-operation.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48978-another-timing-problem.html Mon, 20 May 2013 23:22:24 GMT Gents

I'm running a 350 Chevy with electronic ignition. The distributor clamp is tightly done up and the markings line up on both the dizzy and clamp.

The revs at idle seem to have fallen away over recent drives to the extent that unless I have my foot on the throttle, she stalls. I turned up the screws on the carb but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference at all, but for the car not cutting altogether anymore but it feels as if it wants to.

I have high lift cams so she's never idled smoothly but the recent idle problem is a bit of a mystery.

Ay ideas?

Cheers ]]> Roy L http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48978-another-timing-problem.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48957-fitting-rv8-dizzy-problem.html Sun, 19 May 2013 13:46:04 GMT OK so i thought it was too good to go smoothly. Pesimist. My new electronic dizzy has not got enough movement to time the engine. The electronic... OK so i thought it was too good to go smoothly. Pesimist. My new electronic dizzy has not got enough movement to time the engine. The electronic outlet hits the top water outlet and the vaccuum hits the block within a centimeter or two turn. Any ideas. Is this the wrong one:( ]]> RED1001 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48957-fitting-rv8-dizzy-problem.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48950-heads-up-valvoline-vr1-25-off-euro-car-parts.html Sat, 18 May 2013 11:45:06 GMT use promo code midmonth25 not sure how long that will be valid.... Cheers Geoff use promo code midmonth25

not sure how long that will be valid....

Cheers
Geoff ]]> glip http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48950-heads-up-valvoline-vr1-25-off-euro-car-parts.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48914-quick-warning.html Tue, 14 May 2013 12:30:47 GMT I`m sure many of us have the metal dust caps on our tyre valves - I did. My car has stood for well over a year and at one point got a little damp... I`m sure many of us have the metal dust caps on our tyre valves - I did.
My car has stood for well over a year and at one point got a little damp due to a leaky garage roof - but that`s another story.
I`m in the process of sorting the car ready for MOT and last night decided to check the tyre pressures. It`s probably getting on for a couple of years since the dust-caps were off the valves. They were fecking tight - due to corrosion. I ended up stripping the bonded brass inserts out of the rubber valve stems.
After lots of swearing all 4 wheels were off (not an easy task in a single garage) and down to the tyre fitter they went.

So, anyone out there with metal dust caps - beware. ]]> Dutch Paul http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48914-quick-warning.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48907-15-wheels-simons-hubs.html Mon, 13 May 2013 23:45:15 GMT swapped my hubs over to the ones supplied by Simon and even the the car is not yet on its suspension here is the results - 1 1/4 " inwards of its original position, any questions please ask Lee







]]> 427jlc http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48907-15-wheels-simons-hubs.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48903-iva-sva-failure-points.html Mon, 13 May 2013 20:02:34 GMT Still waiting for the call from the IVA people to see when my test date is! In anticipation and for final preparation works I have decided to trawl... Still waiting for the call from the IVA people to see when my test date is! In anticipation and for final preparation works I have decided to trawl through the forums and find common failure points some obvious some a little more obscure. Whilst I appreciate some things are down to build quality some things are just down to knowledge! So here is a list of the points I have found! Pleas post any mistakes or additional problems encountered;

Heat shield between manifold and servo.

Shield to cover heater pipers in car in case pipe comes off so water deflects down not on legs.

Interior mirror suction one no good

Opening on the front off car has to have bars across so there is no more than 100mm between them (was told it wouldn't pass with mesh either).

Yellow warning symbol on brake reservoir ,

Steering column bracket needs strengthening and no self centering on right lock, and my fault not putting enough*

Insulation on some of the wires i.e horn fog lights and so on.

Fuel filter not adequately supported - I'd put a clip on the hose rather than the bowl of the filter

Space between the boot handle & number plate light 1mm too small - Must be at least 120mm

Parking brake was not effective enough- 16.8% rather than 18%.

Nearside headlight needs adjusting

Wipers not fully clearing screen.

I forgot to put thread lock on the front hub pinch bolts!

Inadequate evidence of suitability of the fuel filler hose (all 3" of it). did have Car Builder Solutions' sheet stating it complied with DN. but that was not good enough.*

Battery positive terminal needs insulating

Low brake fluid warning not working.

Wires & Pipes too close to an exhaust pipe.

Heater box has 1 small section which doesn't have a 2.5mm radius, fix with a bit of carpet.

Bonnet air scoop has sharp edges! The top edge of the scoop doesn't have a 2.5 mm radius.

One fuel pipe not clipped sufficiently, missed that one!

Squeeze plastic hose (Same used for washer jet) into the top bow of the windscreen groove.

Take photos, my examiner want to see how the wire was clipped down the side of the car behind the body and with wheel arches in it was hard.

Wanted a locking nut on the top of the u-bolt holding the steering column to the chassis, had a normal nut and spring washer.

Photo the bracket where the seat belts mount, i.e behind the fuel tank as he was not happy he could not see the glassed in metal support.

Make sure your wipers cover the screen. A standard mini motor will not, even though I got my motor off a rear damaged Cob he failed it, the sweep needs to be 120 degrees.

Plastic cap on the live cable attaching to the battery.

P.clip all wires, sticky pads with zip ties not good in his eyes.

Plastic nut cap needed on the alternator wires attaching the alternator.

P.clip wire that goes over the fuel tank to the rear number plate light.

Bolts that hold the brake calipers on he wants to see if there was a locking washer even though Ford just used to use locktite

Speedo was under when powered by the engine be it only 2 miles per hour out when powered by the rollers.

Indicators at front I'd painted the bottom half black (a Dave Brooks top tip) to meet the 350mm min height rule.

Rear fog lamp wasn't quite square to rear. Maybe pointing 2 or 3 degrees to nearside.

All exposed cables need to be enclosed in convoluted tubing - YES - everything regardless of whether it is already in cable wrap and cable tied - all headlamp/ indicator wiring - all ignition system wiring - even the wiring in the boot for the number plate lamp because it goes across the body to boot lid gap.

Take off your Halibrand Spinners

Decibels need to be 99db or below measured at right angles and aproximately 450mm from the exhaust opening.

Not allowed windscreen center stay ]]> johannlitherland http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48903-iva-sva-failure-points.html http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48889-donor-vehicle.html Sun, 12 May 2013 17:42:49 GMT Hi again, looms all in for those that helped many thanks. Next question I have sort of ignored until Stoneleigh. To save me agro because of where I... Hi again, looms all in for those that helped many thanks. Next question I have sort of ignored until Stoneleigh. To save me agro because of where I live I was lucky enough to source my donor vehicle complete in my local scrap yard. Hubs and diff for my Dax De Dion. So I actually didn't buy a donor car complete I removed all the parts from the car in the scrap yard. Obviously the previous owner sent off the V5. I have photographic and various evidence that said parts came from the vehicle, but I was aware about the age related plate issue. The car is still in the yard. And the scrap yard owners are friends and willing to help me to retain the age related plate (its a nice private one too). Any advice on what I need to do to retain this vehicles plate and the potential IVA issues. Many thanks again. ]]> kernowcobra78 http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/general-tech-tips-questions/48889-donor-vehicle.html