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| Jaguar IRS Hi Chaps, Ive been labouring in the garage for a few days now stripping my Jaguar rear axle. Things have been going well with all the right hand side re-usable components stripped cleaned, blasted & painted. However I have encountered a couple of issues: I have removed the hub from the carrier & am baffled how I remove the outer bearing inner race off the hub shaft. As far as I can see you cannot get a set of pullers behind the race as there is insufficient gap. In addition to this while I have been trying to remove the race the hub deflector has become detached from the hub & looks almost impossible to put back in its correct position as it is a press fit?? The second problem is I have begun to strip the left hand side of the rear axle & have found 1 of the wishbone pivot bracket bolts sheared off into the diff. Additionally the other pivot bracket bolts sheared of very easily when I tried to remove it. This in itself is not a big problem as I have access to a workshop & can drill the stud ends out of the diff, however the mating face on the diff where it mates upto the pivot bracket has been fretting for sometime & is a bit messy. Unless anyone has an alternative suggestion I am thinking about milling this mating face to get a good surface & then using a thick shim to make up the difference? It just goes to show that IMHO you have to strip these components to find these problems as if a pivot bracket was to let go while you were driving it would be pretty nasty. Sorry for the long message & any advise greatly appreciated. Martyn
__________________ AK with tyre-lighting 393ci Ford Stroker - 480hp & 475ft/lbs! - (build about 90% complete..) "Girdles Are For Fat Chicks Not Engines" |
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| Re: Jaguar IRS Martin This is my 1st ever post but I have encountered both of your problems. The bearing races on my hubs came off by striking a VERY fine tapered cold chisel behind the race and they moved eventually and by increasing the taper of the chisel they came off. My diff had 2 bolts sheared. I used a counter clockwise threaded stud remover with mixed results. 1 bolt came out, the stud remover broke in the other. It is made of cobalt and impossible to drill out. I drilled around it with very fine cobalt drills and eventually removed both the bolt and stud remover. Slight damage to threads in casting but I re tapped the thread. The swing arm should be secured through your chassis as well as onto diff as on the original Jaguar sub frame. Regards Ian.
__________________ Gardner Douglas Mk4 with 383 Chevy. 450BHP and 465lb/ft. |
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| Re: Jaguar IRS Guys, Thanks for the info - i will let you know how things go. Regards, Martyn
__________________ AK with tyre-lighting 393ci Ford Stroker - 480hp & 475ft/lbs! - (build about 90% complete..) "Girdles Are For Fat Chicks Not Engines" |
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| Re: Jaguar IRS I've had similar problems in the past with removing bearing races from stub axles or motorcycle yokes.. The method I use is to grind most of the bearing away with a cutting disc, on one side, once the material is thin enough the combined effect of the heat generated and a few blows with a chisel usually splits the bearing and it slides off fairly easily. Be careful not to score the shaft with the disc or chisel Rich |
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